A few suggestions that MAY help others: 1. Be aware that you're NOT "Levelling" the bed - you're TRAMMING it. Many understand the process to be ensuring the bed is "Level" What you're actually doing is ensuring the space between your print head and the bed is as CONSISTENT as possible. 2. Heat the bed before Tramming it. Heat expansion can/will change the gap. 3. The test print G-Code can be found in CURA 5.2.2. Go to "Extensions", then "Auto Towers" - here you will find G-Code for well over 25 test prints of various types. 4. Be sure to SAVE your settings! Go to "Control" then "Save". If you fail to do so then all your work adjusting the "Z-Offset" will be lost once your printer is powered off! Hopefully this bit of info helps!
Step-by-step instructions: 1. Start by auto homing the printer to ensure the nozzle is at its reference point. 2. Place a piece of paper on the bed. This will be used to gauge the nozzle's distance from the bed. 3. Set the Z-axis to 0 to ensure the nozzle is just touching the paper on the bed. 4. Adjust the Z-offset gradually until you feel a slight friction between the nozzle and the paper. This ensures proper bed leveling. 5. Once the Z-offset is set, disable the stepper motors. This will prevent any accidental movements while you level the corners. 6. Begin leveling the four corners of the bed. Repeat this process twice to ensure accuracy. 7. Move the nozzle to the center of the bed for further adjustments. 8. Recheck the Z-offset by moving the nozzle down until it slightly touches the bed using the paper method. 9. Once the Z-offset is confirmed, remove the paper from the bed. 10. Now, it's time for the final leveling. Initiate the automatic leveling process by selecting the "Leveling" option on the main screen. 11. Move the Z-axis up about 40mm to provide some clearance. 12. Preheat the printer for PLA printing. Proper temperature is essential for successful prints. 13. Set the extruder to 20mm, which helps with priming and prepares the nozzle for printing. 14. You are now ready to start the print. 15. Pay close attention to the first layer of your print. If needed, make small adjustments to the Z-offset to ensure a perfect first layer adhesion. I made this comprehensive step-by-step tutorial based on information from this video, with some assistance from ChatGPT to enhance the content. At the end of the process, you may get a not-so-good-looking first print (just joking). Remember, practice makes perfect, and with some adjustments and experience, your prints will undoubtedly improve over time!
I completely messed up my magnetic hotbed the first day I got this, scraped and melted a hole in it. My advice, see another video by Just Print for leveling before attempting to print. My mistake was I over complicated the process and tried to make it too precise and then pre heated while the nozzle was digging into the hot bed 🫤 bad idea. Then thought I fixed it and just made things worse as it made trenches in my hotbed...
I've actually received advice to do leveling *after* pre-heating the bed since heat supposedly changes the shape and level of the bedl. I haven't done a direct experiment but it does seem to make sense.
I think the auto-leveling-system of the Ender3V2 Neo has a constructional fault. Because of that my Ender3 V2 Neo just lasted two days until it was broken. The leveling-system does obviously not recognize if the metal pin of the CR-Touch is still retracted during the auto-levelling. so it can happen that the metal pin stays retracted after auto leveling has started and the z-axis is automatically lowered more and more until the noozzle crashes into the heatbed. still then due to missing z-endstops the firmware tries to press the z-axis against the heatbed until the 3d-printer is broken. I think this is something that has to be fixed.
Creality, please ask someone that understands how-to make instruction videos to review your videos before publishing them. For example; A) Important information (everything in this video btw) needs to be visible for extended periods, not just 1.3 seconds B) Proof reading text... C) If no sound is needed, don't add annoying music or ambient sounds to a video D) Split the display/screen vertically, and use one side to display text and information E) Summarize instruction in the end Best regards A newcomer
A easy site to use is astro print if u don't have a computer . U can edit build plate and then slice it then download and then just move the file to a SD card from ur phone either with a adapter bor directly in the phone .
I'm trying to figure out the bed leveling on this printer since yesterday. I managed to print out a small dragon, but the quality was bad. I forgot to mention that i switched the nozzle to 0.2 mm. Here are some of my thoughts : this guide is confusing af. "Just Print" has a nice video about leveling, but even with that, i still can't get nice results. The CR touch here is kinda useless. Even if my corners are almost the same in terms of distance between the bed and the nozzle, and even after bed leveling, i still get one corner to print worse than the other, so i still have to manually adjust the tension of the wheels. Not to mention the build plate it's bad, if the nozzle pushes too much into it, then you are going to have so much fun removing the filament off of it - this applies for most surfaces, but here is terrible. It's easier to level the bed of my Ender 3 than the V2 neo, i only need 30-40 minutes and i get almost perfect results. The good thing about V2 Neo is that most of it comes preassembled and you don't have much work to do in terms of assembly. Also it's really quiet and the only thing i hear is the fan on the hot-end. I will probably get it work, but most likely i will change the bed for PEI or glass and see how it goes. Edit: Make sure that your slicer software is using your printer's CR touch. I'm using CURA and i had to add the "G29" code under "G28". Go to Settings > Printer > Manage printers > Name of your printer > Machine settings > Start G-Code. Then add the "G29" code under "G28 ; home all axes". Hope this takes care of the problems.
When I do all of the steps in this order, when I get to the auto level feature, the print head only moves to the right and then makes a terrible grinding noise. I can’t get the damn thing to work and I can’t get ahold of tech support to help. I’m on the verge of sending this back and ordering something else.
Dear Creality software engineers: I have a very basic question about the process on Ender 3 V2 Neo: Obviously, the first step is: "Auto home"; the second step is under "Move," and turn the value of "Move Z" from 10 to 0. I guess these two are factory-based calibrated. And the Z axis is supposed to be at 10 every time you do this. I can add "Preheat PLA" and "Disable Stepper" steps since the user will be playing with things that might change calibration at different temperatures because the springs are not thick enough and easily would get affected by the temperature change. Soooooo......, WHY don't you combine these four steps and automatize all four under the "Z-axis calibration menu"'s First action? The second action will be playing with the knobs under the printing bed; Third action will be to go back and press the "Levelling" button. Wouldn't this be more user-friendly? I'm 100% sure that you'll be way less cursed at by the end users, but isn't this one of the negative advertisement items that your competitors use against you? You can even use the basic non-moving images above explaining the steps, as in coffee machines or printers. It is so amazing how this small thing matters a lot to the end users' daily experience and forces them to spend 800$ instead of 200$ on a 3D printer, which the manufacturer does not seem to care about.
I am pretty sure DIY 3D printers are designed this way to confuse users. Confused users will damage their printer and will be forced to buy pre assembled one.
Hi, regarding your question, please contact our official after-sales service and they will help you solve your problem as soon as possible. (Official service email: cs@creality.com)
You should know that this is a hobby printer and an introduction to more serious printers. Do you really think that you will make something beautiful out of printers that cost $200? I also struggled with leveling and similar until I realized that paper is totally unnecessary and that this printer has complete auto leveling and that it is not necessary to touch those dots below or to put paper. Do you really think you can line up 16 dots with plain paper. If you really mean it, sell your printer and buy a console and play games. I also don't understand why everyone is talking about some paper when paper has nothing to do with printing. It is important that the substrate is ideally clean. Everything else is heavy nonsense with papers. I'm telling you because I struggled until I figured it out. Leveling the bed, auto leveling, lowering from the axis and similar is heavy nonsense. And if you learn to work with a printer, good. The print will still be a little worse, some transitions and the like will be visible.
I think it is like an additional tuning option in order to fix a first layer that seems odd. Normally I wouldn't modify any axis value during a print, but I believe it would help to fix those "oh f... I forgot / what happened here?" moments rather than staring from zero. Anyways, if leveled properly, you'd never have to use this, although I can think of some scenarios where this would be handy...
