I thoroughly enjoyed both parts of this and I’m now looking forward to receiving two, second hand lamps, via eBay! Once they’ve arrived and I’ve got some upgrade spares, I’ll re-watch these two lessons and then service them both! 😜👍🏻👍🏻 Good, steady and easy to understand tuition....so well done and thank you!
Nice to watch an informative video without the blooming adverts spoiling the video throughout as I can't afford to pay membership fees to stop adds great video Bought 2 tilley lamps at a bootie 4yrs ago and am now eventually going to start using them as not used tilley lamps since my scout leader days about 36yrs ago and don't want any accidents lol thanks .
Hi FrankieP, thank you for your kind words, I hope you found my videos helpful. Please let me know if you post a video or two with your Tilleys. Regards Broadlander
@@broadlander1398 had a look and found I'd bought 1 tilley lamp cleaned it up and serviced it only to find once I'd cleaned the brass body it was a red tilley originally I think a x2466 1977 variant and forgot to do a video of process lol Also what I thought was a 2nd tilley lamp turned out to be a no2 fogao hipolito in Portuguese parrafin stove in English in brass According to all reviews works better than a color gas powered camping cooker Suppose the proof is in the pudding 🍮 🙄 All up and running now thanks to your videos
Have had lots of trouble getting my old girl working and watched videos and read loads threads and just could bot work it out! UNTIL i saw yours.... you give the leather pump washer a good ol oil and soften up squishing and softening it. Bingo! Tried this and presto she is going well :-) Huge thank you, keep it up
Hi Jason, I’m glad you found the video useful and your lantern is now running as it should. I haven’t made a video for a fair while now as life is currently far too busy. I’m still here for chat and questions and will always help when I can. Regards Broadlander
Really appreciate your effort with these video's. I have had 2 tilleys sitting in my shed in pieces for a very long time. After seeing your video I got some SP1 kits and they arrived yesterday. I now have one of them working. It's my Dads x246A. Next up is my Grandfathers x359. It brings back great memories. Cheers, Phil 👍
Hello Broadlander. I am new to the Tilley lamp collecting but as luck would have it recently purchased a couple of old lamps, including an old pork pie tilley (the middle one you don't currently have). Your videos are very informative and useful to me. Thank you very much for taking the time to do them
I never knew you could light them without a mantle. I'm sure my late father would have been surprised as well, it would have saved time and money for mantles back in the day when servicing them before going fishing.
Thanks Broadlander, your demonstration and instructions have helped greatly. I'm refurbishing 2 tilley lamps, both slightly different but able to adapt to fix up both of them. Thanks again.
scotttty22 Hi, I'm pleased you found my video helpful. You are correct in saying that the Tilley storm lanterns are different in construction but the same in application, servicing and use. Regards Broadlander
Thank you for the very detailed explanation and step by step tear down. I was able to repair my Tiley. As I did not have any flat washers, I just substituted with O rings and it worked a treat. No parts required and restored to full working order.
Hi, I hope my video helps you, however please feel free to ask questions. These are all good places for Tilley accessories: fettlebox.co.uk/tilley.html. www.tilleylampsandstoves.com/tilley-lamp-spares. www.base-camp.co.uk/tilley.html. Regards Broadlander
Thanks so much for posting this (and Part 1). I have been staring at an SP1 service pack for months, but have never had the confidence to carry out a service on my X246B. The tip on aligning the control cock is priceless!
@Stephen Butler. Apologies for the very long delay in replying but unfortunately a multitude of personal issues have prevented me from having much free time, however I’m now back, alive and kicking! Thanks for the the compliment. Regards Broadlander
Hi Broadlander. Many thanks for all the effort you put into your very informative videos & even more thanks for kindly sharing them with the world! I was gutted to realise that my old Tilley lamp was 'past it' due to my own neglect, so it hung on a nail in my shed & eventually I managed to find an affordable companion to hang side by side with it, getting some occasional use. Then I stumbled on your videos & after some studying I learnt my much loved old lamp was a 1984 X246B mark 2 & my 'new' lamp is a 1975 mark 1! Eventually I got a SP1 service pack & follow your guidance I replaced all the seals on the 'new' Tilley (& it worked) & now feel I have the experience to tackle refurbishing my old, 1984, much loved lamp, all thanks to your generosity of sharing your knowledge. I can't thank you enough! I can't help but notice you haven't posted for a while & I just wanted to wish you well & thank you so much for your help & guidance. I hope you get this feed back & get to see how appreciated you are! All the very best & thanks again. Ian.
Hi Ian. Many thanks for your kind words and I am pleased my humble attempts at video making have been of assistance. I have just subscribed to your channel and hope to see the light of your endeavours with your two Tilleys. My family and I are all keeping well and I still have a passion for all things paraffin, unfortunately life gets in the way of living and my Tilley hobby has been temporarily put on ice. I’m still here and happy to offer a little tip here and there should it be required, so please don’t hesitate to ask. I hope to get back into the pressure lamp scene in the next year or so and who knows, more videos may follow. Kind regards, Broadlander
Great down to earth videos, really helpful, got half a dozen Tilleys, including a brand new never used one in the box, Last one I refurbished, I didn't have any of the proper replacement washers, so used O rings instead ( except for the non return valves) which seemed to work OK, I guess time will tell. Just looked on the Tilley website, and They are again selling new complete lamps (as of 8/11/2021 ) which is great news. LEDs are wonderful, but can't beat the noise, smell, heat, and pure joy of using a Tilley! Thanks again for the videos
Very helpful, thank you, I have just started a small collection of Tilley lamps and paraffin heaters and love them, great to be able to learn from you 👍
Please feel free to ask specific questions should you feel the need, I do pop back here occasionally even if I’m not posting new videos. Enjoy your newfound hobby. Regards Broadlander
good informative videos, I have had Tilley lamps for over 50 years and only ever needed to re-oil the leather pump washer, never replace one!. If left years they do dry and will not pump but all of mine has been 100% successful after re-oiling.
Hi welshwizard822. Apologies for the very long delay in replying but unfortunately a multitude of personal issues have prevented me from having much free time, however I’m now back, alive and kicking! I agree that quite often all a leather requires is a good oiling however it is, I suppose relative to the amount of use. I have often come across lanterns and lamps that have had a hard life and the pump leathers are either worn out or have perished. Regards Broadlander
have one in my shed belonged to my father a 246b i believe it has never been used must be at least 40yrs old going to renew everything and use it on my boat in the cabin it will provide both heat and light great info keep up the good work
Great video. Just been gifted an old Tilley Lamp with gold base. Think it's the same model but can't see any obvious markings. Just ordered a service kit to try and get it running again. This video has really helped. Just sub'd.
Hi Doug. Glad you found my videos helpful and thanks for the sub. If you look on the underside of the fount you should see two letters and three or four numbers. Ignore the letters as no one really knows what they mean, however the numbers are a date code. The first one or two are the month and the last two are the production year. The X246B model was first introduced in 1964. Enjoy your Tilley and please feel free to ask any specific questions. I’d also be interested in to know if you post a Tilley video. Regards Broadlander
Hi, I’m glad you liked my video and thanks for your kind words. Please do not hesitate to contact me if you have a particular question or issue. Regards Broadlander
Hi Bernie Clark. Thanks for your kind words. I'm glad you found my video to be helpful, however if you have a specific problems or questions please do not hesitate to ask. Regards Broadlander
Greetings from Finland! Thank you for these videos! I managed to disassemble, clean and refit new seals to an old Tilley I inherited (almost identical to the one in the video). It had been unused since the 60's, I think. All the seals were rock hard and the pump leather had been destroyed. There were lots of dirt in the small mesh cup. I did the test burn today and it does seem to work! I still have to fit the mantle. Thanks again for the helpful videos! 👍
Userandom Hi. Many thanks for your kind words and I’m really glad the videos have assisted you. Are we likely to see a video of your Tilley on your channel? Regards Broadlander
Userandom Hi again. Looks perfect to me, all you need now is a mantle. You have a very nice speculum plated Tilley Guardsman lantern model no. X246 which was probably made some time between 1954 and 1960 if I remember correctly. There may even be a date code on the bottom, if so ignore the letters and you will get a mont and year. If this is not present I believe it will be dated between 1954 and 1956, but of course I could’ve wrong. One point, don’t run you lantern with glass fitted without a mantle as you have more chance of it fracturing. All the best, Broadlander
@@broadlander1398 Broadlander Thanks for the info! There is no date on the bottom, only text "Made in England" and one separate "T" over that. The glass has already been fractured, there are burn marks inside that don't come off at all. Probably used with broken mantle? I'll find a new glass if I get this working properly.
Joshua James. Many thanks. It has been too long since I posted a video but I’m afraid family issues and life seem to get in the way. Regards Broadlander
Thanks Broadlander for the vid, I have been refurbing my Tilley last used for sea fishing 25 years ago, your videos were my go to source, I got my refurb bits off Ebay of course, I had one issue when pressuring up I got fuel coming back through the pump, despite replacing all seals, after much head scratching I realised that the non return seal was on the wrong end of the spring, just wasn't clear in your video, so it needs to be seal away from pump so pump spring seal, probably I am being stupid but just saying as it wasn't too clear from the vid, thanks for all your uploads
Hi ///////. Apologies for the very long delay in replying but unfortunately a multitude of personal issues have prevented me from having much free time, however I’m now back, alive and kicking! Thanks for pointing this omission out, I’m sure others will find this useful. Regards Broadlander
Great videos that have really helped me with a project to fix an early 70s Tilley. I have got it working but, under pressure, paraffin is leaking past the pump guide and knob. I have replaced the 155 washer valve and the 154 clamp washer for the pump. I have also replace the leather for the pump and am getting good pressure. I fitted the 155 washer valve with the nipple recessed into the hole. Should it have been fitted the other way round with the flat side nearest to the hole and the spring surrounding the upwards pointing nipple? If this isn't the problem why is paraffin leaking back past the guide and knob along the pump spindle?
Really great instruction mate. I just came about a storm x.359. It’s really lovely. All appears reasonably sound. I’ve broken down the various parts, separated and labelled, ready to start the cleaning process. Some rust is evident and plenty build up of fuel residue. I was planning on using electrolysis. Are there any parts of the lamp which shouldn’t be subject to some amps to clean? I love this lamp and I’m hoping to fully restore with, at very least, minimal heartache and suffering. Any tips will be warmly received. AK☺️
To restore the pump washer, I sprayed it first with carburettor cleaner. Then soaked the leather washer in Neats Foot oil. Pump worked a treat . Don’t forget to rinse all parts of pump with brake cleaner.
I just cleaned my Tilly. It's a x246b Chrome version. Only had to replace the mantle and the leather plunger. It's 34 years old and still looks as new. I don't use it much these days, but do run it and clean it about every 5 years. Was surprised to read the mantles are or do emit low dose radiation. 😕 not sure if that's why you don't see any being used these days, or it's just because of battery LED lanterns. I got one of these too. My Tilly was used up to my early 20's as we fished and lived on the beach every day.
Hi bowwave Paul. You are correct that the older mantles gave of a small amount of radiation. Basically the silk/material mantle was immersed in a liquid of rare earth metals one of which was Thorium 232. This cocktail when sufficiently heated caused the mantle to glow brightly (incandescence). Modern mantles no longer have this radioactive element and are not quite so bright. In all honesty the only people who may have had a problem were likely to be found in the mantle factory. Enjoy your lamp. Regards, Broadlander.
Thanks for your video, it is really helpful for servicing my Tilley "hospital wall lamp". Do you know where to find the copper brown enamel for painting the hood?
JeepsterDave Many thanks for your kind words. Please let me know if you have a specific issue or problem and I will do my best to help. Once the festive silly season is over I hope to start making a few more videos again and am open to requests or ideas. Regards Broadlander.
Hi Broadlander. Just thought I'd let you know that following the guidance in your videos I have my two x246Bs up and running beautifully (and my Vapalux M320 and my Primus 210 for that matter!) Many thanks indeed. Regards, Dave
JeepsterDave Hi, I'm glad you found the videos useful. Enjoying your lamps and stove and I'm sure you will find they soon breed and multiply. Regards Broadlander
Great video- followed parts 1 and 2 but something isn’t right with my Tilley. When I pump it blows bubbles in the paraffin. It’s hard to push and push back on itself. Paraffin is also pouring out of the stem. Any advice please? Thanks
Great pair of videos - really helpful to my son and I as we serviced our X246s. I have just acquired a Tilley R1 radiator heater which I intend servicing. Would you be able to produce a similar, disassemble/service/reassemble set of videos for the R1 heater? It would give me confidence to go into the unknown!! Cheers, keep up the good work.
Hi. Thanks for your kind words, I’m glad my videos have helped you and your son. Unfortunately life has got in the way of lamping for the time being so no new videos planned at present. This doesn’t mean you need one specifically for the R1 to gain confidence, let me explain: Tilley lamps and heaters are in essence the same beast, the only real difference is the burner and the parabolic reflector. These lamps and heaters both give off approximately 1kw of heat. The mantles contain the Bunsen flame and in the case of the lamp are material coated in chemicals which incandesce when heated giving light as well as heat. The metal mantle (or asbestos if you have the real old style heater mantle) are there to contain the Bunsen flame, the parabolic reflector then concentrates and directs the heat. If you place a R1 burner on a lantern setup it will work but the heat will spread out 360 degrees, likewise a lantern head on a heater will give light and heat. What I am trying to say is the basic principles are the same in theory and operation and if you can service an X246, you follow the same procedure for the R1. Hope this helps and look forward to hearing how you get on with the heater however please contact me again if you have a specific query. Tilley heaters are a lovely addition to a home or workshop in the colder months. All the best, Broadlander
I appreciate your detailed reply. Will service the heater "main bits" as per the guardsman. Will give the burner and guard a good clean as there are no washers/seals to replace. Happy memories will be rekindled as my parents used them during power cuts when I was a kid. Thanks again.
After washing the parabolic reflector a gentle polish with a soft cloth and Autosol should do the trick. Shout if you have any other questions. Broadlander
Hi thanks for taking the time to make this. I have managed to service a Tilley Stormlight lantern with this video. I notice the spring in the pump is very short ( only a couple turns) in comparison to the one on your lantern, would this need replaced as well ?
Hi, there are usually two springs in the pump assembly. There should be a short fairly strong spring on the pump shaft and a longer one in the bottom of the pump which makes up part of the non-return valve. If you need to replace them they are usually available in the SP1 service pack. Hope this helps, regards Broadlander
Thanks Broadlander. Great videos. Question I've just got an old 246 and the control cock seems to be kinda notchy its action isn't smooth would this be an issue with the control cock or somewhere else ie pricker rod..thanks Jim
Hi, I've been looking at your Tilley servicing videos (very handy) and have a couple of questions. When the lamp is heated and I open the valve, I have a nice bunsen flame, but only when the lamp is low, turning is up creates a large flame that is visible 2-3" below…. still nice and blue all round…. is that normal? I don't seem to have any control with the valve unless I hold it, it's is either on or off. Should the valve be adjustable and stay as set, does this need replacing? Also a few pops now and then and I don't know if any thing can be done about that, I'd appreciate some tips on all of the above if poss. Thanks
Thank you so much , very informative. I have only just started collecting and your guide has helped so much! Just one question , the control valve knob, should it just pull off ?
Hey Broadlander. Ive been refurbishing a old Tilley lamp for my sister, the same as the one you have there. my question is ive replaced all the seals and replace the vaporiser and tested it without lighting it to see if it leaks and the fuel comes out the top of the vaporiser like a 2-3 foot stream not a mist as i thought it would. Is this correct? because i know you have to pre heat the vaporiser first so does the heat actually cause it to come out as a mist? Hope to hear from you Tommy
Hi. I have a problem with my X246 lamp burning yellow outside the mantle and blackening it. I have bought two new vaporiser tubes having sent the first one back to Tilley. I now have the same issue with the replacement. I have tried a tube from another lamp which I know is ok and there’s no problem. I can’t understand why there’s a problem as Tilley told me they are burn tested at the factory. The burner and all other parts work fine with the swapped tube. Any help or advice would be appreciated
Hello Sir. What an excellent videos you make. Wow. We used an old Tilley lamp in Burkina Faso between 1977 and 1981 which I had bought and prepared when still in Holland (chrome plated tank model without valve at the cock). I now took it apart, cleaned/polished all parts, renewed washers where necessary and made a new piston leather. The lamp is working correctly now except that some petroleum is sweating at the base of the generator tube (there where the (seriously rusted) steel tube ends in the knurled brass ring that allows tightening the generator tube in the upper cock part. Any suggestions how this could be repaired (tinning; soldering with flux and copper?). Many thanks. Gerard
Yes it is an original Tilley lamp. I enveloped the lower part of the burner (where microscopic leaks were showing) with a copper foil and tin soldered it on the burner. This solved the leakage problem. But even after meticulously cleaning the burner and needle I still had problems with black sooting. I found buying a new burner "too much and transformed the Tilley lamp in an bright and quiet 12 Volt Lithium battery powered lamp. Thanks. Gerard
Very informative thankyou. I have a tilley which belonged to my late Father in Law who used it when he went fishing either on the beach or in his boat, I would like to get it working in his memory. Is there anywhere I can get a parts list with the relevant part numbers please? thankyou.
Hi David, hopefully these links will help you on your quest.. please keep me informed of the progress and feel free to ask any questions you may have. Regards Broadlander . www.tilleylampsandstoves.com/ www.base-camp.co.uk/tilley.html www.base-camp.co.uk/sp1.htm www.base-camp.co.uk/guardsma.html.
Thankyou so much for this. I hae just received a tilley lamp as a birthday gift and it has made my day! but I haven't got the pre-heating torch. May I buy one from you?
Lemn Sissay Hi. Glad you found my videos to be helpful. I’m afraid I don’t trade or sell spares, however I would generally purchase a lighting torch from Julian Shaw at: www.tilleylampsandstoves.com/product-page/tilley-lamp-pre-heater Hope this helps and look forward to seeing your video of a working Tilley. Regards Broadlander
At around 2:06 when you are doing the non-return valve washer, what order are the parts returned to the nut recess. Is it rubber washer, spring, then nut or spring, rubber washer, then nut. My lamp doesn't have holes in the end of the pump unit. It has a single nut. Any advice welcomed.
Bit late to the party with this comment. However, I have just inherited 2 table models which I believe to be tl10's as they have 7" vapourisers. Apart from burners, vapourisers and pumps are the seals pretty much interchangeable between all models?
Hi, can you give me advice , recently bought Tilley lamp x246 pork pie, lamp was working good but last time when I tried to lit it , it was only flame around mantle and lamp wasn’t work properly light was not bright... what should I check? Thanks
Just wondering if you can help I have an x246B lamp that I was given, I want to get it going. I have heated the head of the lamp with the Tilley touch turned on the valve after 30 pumps and I just get flair ups. the mantle is not perfect but close to it. What is the problem, can you help.
Hi, Thanks for the great video. Can you please tell me how the knob on my control cock comes off as it is a different (earlier vers with Tilly printed on it) and seems to be stuck doesnt pull off or unscrew? Thanks Fred
Hello broadlander, I have a question about the combustibles. I heard it’s not recommend to use colored or/and perfumed paraffin or petroleum for Tilley and Aladdin lamps. Do you agree with that or do you don’t care about this?
Great video, just one or two import note missed, where do you get the spare wash etc? Plus I don,t have the pre-ignition part you used to test the lamp, and how do you fit the element?
Hi ken pen, sorry for the long delay in replying. For the spare washers I prefer using the ones supplied by The Fettle Box: fettlebox.co.uk/tilley.html. The lighting torch is available on ebay from several suppliers but I would suggest Julian Shaw at: www.tilleylampsandstoves.com/product-page/tilley-lamp-pre-heater. By "fitting the element" I assume you mean the aproximately 150mm/6" long vaporiser. This is screwed directly into the control cock and can be seen on the video at around the 9 minute 40 seconds mark. Hope this helps you however, feel free to ask any further questions and I will do my best to assist. Regards Broadlander
Hello, I live in France now and have just bought an old Tilley lamp on ebay.....It is a model which is quite tall, the four legs which are fixed to the tank look about 3" long and then the four legs which are fixed to the top portion which holds the glass are even longer! (about 10") it has not arrived yet but I am going to restore it to use as a back-up light as Ilive i n the country and power cuts are not unknown! Have you any Idea of the year or model or any information about parts? I am 60 and I was always imprssed with their lighting power when I was in the scouts. When we went to camp and we had Hurricane lamps (in our tents!!) And Tilley lamps in the mess tent etc...Anyway, if you can help me that would be great, all the best Simon.
Hi Pam. If you have the aluminium control cock as per the video they just pull off. Aluminium is susceptible to salt corrosion and there is a small steel insert between the aluminium shaft and control knob. Try some penetrating fluid to see if this helps to loosen it. Good luck, regards Broadlander
Hi There, thanks for the vid. I have a lamp I’m trying to get working. I’ve taken it apart and am in the midst of tidying her up. Mines a bit different to this lamp though and I have removed the needed. And now I can’t get it back in and moving up and down. Long shot. But any ideas?
sarah robinson Hi Sarah, the cleaning needle can sometimes be a bit of a beggar to get back in. Did a small spring come out with the needle and is it still attached to it? Let me know you think it may still be inside the vaporiser please. If the spring is there and the needle is bent it’s worth gently straightening it and trying again. Don’t force it but insert it as far as it goes and gently reciprocate and twist at the same time. Hope this helps and good luck. Regards Broadlander
Hello. Many thanks for your two helpful videos on servicing a Tilley. Mine is slightly different - a 672XB - with the cage secured by the central nut to the tank. But it was easy to adapt all your steps. My query is about your test at the end of the servicing - you achieved a nice Bunsen flame. On mine, I got the paraffin lit at the burner giving very short flames, but a very very tiny tweak of the control knob had flames roaring down the side of the vapouriser and through the hole in the glass and threatening to melt the control knob. I just couldn't get a good flame as you did. Can you help please? Happy New Year.
Bill Quinton. Hi and thanks for the kind words. Your Tilley is model no. X246B dated June 1972, no one knows what the two letters are for. It sounds to me that your problem could be one of two things. Most probably the jet at the end of the vaporiser has become worn and enlarged and passing too much paraffin vapour. The other possibility is the preheat time is not long enough and unvaporised paraffin is burning down through the burner base, although I would really expect flames to rise rather than burn down. I would recommend not using the glass until you have sorted out the problem. Please let me know how you fare. Regards Broadlander
Unfortunately, more pre-heat didn't work. I seem to be able to get a roaring flame coming down to the tank, or a tiny little set of blue flames at the burner that quickly go out, with nothing in between no matter how carefully I try and turn the control knob one micron at a time. So looks like I need a new vaporiser and/or a new control cock assembly. Do you have such, or know where they can be obtained, please?
Hi, i carefully followed the instructions on the x246B. i got it beautifully working as a Bunsen before pressurised paraffin started leaking severely from the pump ( plunger area and spraying out) i took it all apart as per the video, tightened it all with pliers... checked all the new seals and put it back together..... same thing.... paraffin all over the back yard and kitchen.... any ideas?
hk making . Sorry, just seen this message I missed! The only two explanations are a misplaced of not correctly seated nrv washer or a weakened nrv spring. Try reseating the washer and gently stretching the spring and see if this helps. Regards Broadlander
Hi kiltedguard. No suggestions I’m afraid other than just keep looking. Mine came to me over several years and patience is the best solution. Keep watching Facebook Marketplace and the auction sites. Good luck with your hunting. Regards Broadlander
My old tilly does not have a fuel cut off valve only the pricker assembly Do i need to go and buy a fuel cut off And where do i buy one Please Regards philip
Hi Philip. I would be interested to see exactly what you do have before commenting. Do you have a video of the said lamp/part please or could you email some photographs to mr? Regards Broadlander
I've kept a nice Strawberry Spring Water Bottle ready . Thanks this has been of great help so far , all washers in place and with luck I can light it this week . How long do these Mantles usually last please ?
WARRICK Tyler, my advice is always have a couple of spare mantles with you. Generally they last for a good long time but a suicidal moth or a bump during transit can sometimes end its life prematurely. Regards, Broadlander
@@broadlander1398 Teesside DA of the Camping & Caravanning Club has several regular campers with several Tilley Lamps each, often used at weekend camps from March to end of October each year. Last weekend, for example, we had 7 people in our awning in the evening and, if I remember correctly, 5 Lamps lit. It was VERY cold outside (discs of ice at the top of the fire buckets on Saturday and Sunday mornings) so the lamps not only have light but also made the AWNING toasty warm. We are a mini Tilley Lamp Appreciation Society and sometimes have Tilley Lamp workshop sessions when we have a few "issues". The mantles - how long they last is like asking how long a piece of string is! One might last me a couple of seasons, being lit one or twice a weekend for maybe 25 weekends a year (and most days of a 2 week holiday and a few longer 4 or 5 day camps each year). Then, if a hole appears or the mantle disintegrates, I might replace it and find that the replacement itself needs replacing after just a few weeks before another long-service mantle takes over again! My wife got us a couple of large bundles of mantles (online from Tilley directly) some years ago and we still have maybe 8-9 left. They all give a lovely bright yellowy-white light, whereas my friends who have bought supplies more recently have marked which give off a slightly less bright pinky/orange glow. You can't beat the lovely hiss, the light and warmth of a working Tilley Lamp!
Andy Headland. Hi, no the brass clamp shield was only fitted (so I believe) to the earlier X246 Guardsman models. On later versions the clamp washer seated directly against the pump. Regards Broadlander
Great video thank you, nice to see someone who actually knows his stuff! I have a question, I have a Tilley lamp that I’m trying to get up and running but I cannot get any pressure from the pump, I cannot take the nut off the base end, it appears fixed, any ideas? Thank you
paulsturman1 Hi Paul. The end of your pump should unscrew, but first a few questions to assist me in advising please. 1) Which model pump do you have: Is it all brass with a round knurled part at the end or does it have an aluminium nut? 2) is the pump leather in good condition, soft and well lubricated.? 3) Does the pump plunger push easily down or is there any pressure resistance? Regards Broadlander
Follow your video I'm trying to service the control valve on a 1984 Nov x246b but it has an aluminium control valve an I can't see how to remove 155 washer valve and spring can you advise. Thanks
@streetlugechris The aluminium control cock disassembles and reassembles in exactly the same way as the one in my videos (p1 & p2j the main difference being the metal used. These can be a bit of a devil to take apart especially if the lamp has been used for beach fishing as the salt in the air can corrode the aluminium. Try soaking the cock in some penetrating fluid for several hours and try again. Sometimes it helps to use a piece of leather between the component and the jaws of the grips to prevent damage. Once in side you will notice the only other difference is the aluminium control cock doesn’t have a cup with spigot to fit the NRV washer into and you will require the new style service pack 498 as seen here: www.base-camp.co.uk/tilley.html. I hope this is of assistance, however please feel free to ask me more questions should you need to. Regards Broadlander
@@broadlander1398 thank you for taking the time to reply that most helpful. I did discover an exploded diagram which showed the thread on the filter cap it's so well made I couldn't see the join. Is there a way to take the control valve apart completely to evaluate the brass riser and control screw. Many thanks again. Chris
I have been given a Tilley lamp for a present. I have serviced it with new seals as shown on your videos. When I try to get a Bunsen flame, the flame shows blue at the top of the burner (very similar to the flame on a gas burner) but I am getting a strong jet of flame from the burner to the knob controlling the flame. Your Bunsen flame seemed to curve up toward the top of the lamp. I wondered if I had over pressured it. Please can you advise. Thank you.
Hi Desmond. This could be caused by too much pressure or an enlarged jet in the vaporiser. Bare in mind the lamp is not designed to run without a mantle and this is really only a functional test. If you fit and burn in a mantle and get flames outside of it then chances are you will need a new vaporiser. Please let me know how you get on with this. Nice to see someone knows a good present when they see one! Regards Broadlander.
@@broadlander1398 Hi. Thanks for your prompt reply. I was actually given two lamps so that I might be able to get one working one from them. I had actually tried to burn in a mantle on number one lamp but got a yellow flame outside the mantle. I then decided to try the Bunsen test with the top from number two lamp with the result that I previously described. From your reply, it would appear that the vapouriser may need changing. I will try the vapouriser from number two lamp. If that doesn't work and I need a new vapouriser, are they still available to buy. Thanks for your help.
Any chance you could please do something on the non return valve on the pump ? I fitted a new leather but when I pump it up it pushes the shaft back out and paraffin comes out under pressure ☹️ thanks 👍
I've just watched your vid on pump repairs and I'm not clear on how the non return works, I've got 2 new types and in one the pip washer was below the spring in the cap with the nipple bit poking up and in the other there was no spring and the pip washer was in the cap with the nipple bit poking down...cheers
basa364 Hi, I am hoping to restart my videos in the new year and will see what I can do. May I ask which model Tilley lamp you have and you replaced the nrv washer. Regards Broadlander
Hi broadlander, I've swapped the washer out and tried it the other way round(spring in the cap and washer on top of the spring). Fitted a new mantle and lit it, it's been running perfectly for the last 3 hrs 👍. Made up from two old lamps and now working for the first time in @18 years 😮. Thanks for all your helpful vids. Brilliant have a happy new year.
FOOD FORTUNE. Hi, to be honest I’m not sure whether the washers are now measured in metric or imperial. You will need to make sure you have the new style service kit if your Tilley has the aluminium pump and control cock. eBay item numbers for example: 283875233382 and 264523185725. Hope this helps but always feel free to ask as many questions as you wish. Please let me know how you get on with this project. Regards Broadlander
FOOD FORTUNE Hi. If you take either the gauze filter from the bottom of the control cock OR the gland from the bottom of the pump you should either have a spring and a black seal with a pip to locate it into the spring OR a spring with a metal dish with spigot and a black rubber disc inserted in it. If you can advise which version you have I should be able to advise which service kit you require. Alternatively if you can post a short video showing the lantern, the control cock and the pump, send me the link I should be able to advise you that way too. Regards Broadlander
Got a 246 for Christmas from Lovely Wife. 246 was "serviced and ready to go" NOT FROM YOU I hasten to add. After viewing your excellent Part 2 video, I find no rubber washers on either pump or central mount, also nozzle at end of pump tube seems to be just any old nut. I shall obviously be having Jolly Chat with seller but am I right to be cautious before I light up?!! All help welcome.
Hi. If you are happy to use a “copy” burner they are available from Julian Shaw: www.tilleylampsandstoves.com/product-page/tilley-lamp-burner. I have used these and in my opinion they are better than the current genuine Tilley burner. They are available here: www.base-camp.co.uk/tilley.html. part number 218. Bothe companies are excellent. Hope this helps. Regards Broadlander
@Charlorsak Mahapratoom. Apologies for the very long delay in replying but unfortunately a multitude of personal issues have prevented me from having much free time, however I’m now back, alive and kicking! Greetings to you, too! Regards Broadlander
@@johnmoody8808 Hi John. Washer kits are available from several good sources here in the UK. Base Camp: part no. 498 (various versions here for different models) www.base-camp.co.uk/tilley.html The Fettle Box: fettlebox.co.uk/tilley.html. Tilley Lamps and Stoves (Julian Shaw): www.tilleylampsandstoves.com/product-page/tilley-lamp-repair-kit. Hope this helps. Regards Broadlander
Hi Mike I believe these businesses ship worldwide. I am not aware of any suppliers closer to you. Regards Broadlander www.base-camp.co.uk/. www.tilleylampsandstoves.com/ fettlebox.co.uk/index.php
Tried to light our old Vapalux tonight and paraffin literally dripping from the control cock area. The tank was getting soaked so released the pressure and left it to cool down. Dangerous with paraffin everywhere. I guess a seal has perished or rotted. Where’s the best place to get a set of seals / washers from?
The Retro Shed Hi, I’m afraid Tilley and Vapalux/Bialaddin seals do cook and become hard and brittle, a combination of heat and fuel. I have found the following places (in no particular order of preference) to be excellent suppliers of spares. Hope this helps and please let me know if you post a video of the working lantern, I have just subscribed to your channel. Regards Broadlander fettlebox.co.uk/index.php. www.base-camp.co.uk/. www.tilleylampsandstoves.com/
Broadlander hi thanks for the reply! I’ve stripped it all down today and the seals are a bit hard and brittle. New seals ordered! Also I’ve found the needle doesn’t move up and down easily - I think it’s slightly bent so the cock is not rotating smoothly. Some work to do here I think!
The Retro Shed Hi again. The needle should slide out and there should also be a small spring with it. Unlike a Tilley lamp the spring can slide off the needle so mind you don’t loose it. If you haven’t found a spring it may be lodged in the vaporiser by a buildup of carbon . Check to see if the cocks action is smooth without the vaporiser fitted, hopefully all is well. A bent needle is quite common and in most cases will not affect the rotary action however a buildup of carbon in the vaporiser certainly can do so. In which case I would suggest heating and quenching the vaporiser. The thermal shock of dumping an orange glowing tube into cold water several time generally expels a good amount of carbon debris. Again please keep me informed and I’ll do my best to assist. Regards Broadlander EDIT: I should have mentioned that Tilley have a control cock with a positive fuel shut off whereas Vapalux/Bialaddin do not shut the fuel off, this being done by releasing pressure. I your case the rotary control is only there to actuate the cleaning needle.
Broadlander hi. No sign of the spring but I can feel it so I guess it’s stuck in the tube somewhere. I’ll try and release it. The stop mechanism looks ok - turning it moves a small brass piston up and down. When the tube is screwed onto it, the mechanism is rough and I can’t see or feel the needle point at the top of the tube.
The Retro Shed Hi. It all adds up to carbon buildup on the inside of the vaporiser which can be loosened and removed by heating the vaporiser with a blow torch until orange and plunging it in cold water. The thermal shock should expel flakes of carbon. You may need to carry out this procedure several times to free the spring off. Once the spring is removed the carbon should come out easier with repeated heat and quench cycles. Regards Broadlander
