Part 1 shows how I strip down and clean a Tilley lamp prior to fitting new seals. Al;though I have used a late 1950's X246 the principal is generally the same for all Tilley Lamps.
Hi I have inherited an old Tilly lamp but I don't know how to clean or service it. It looks just like the one you have on the self, the dark green one that is between the sliver and light green one. Is there anyway you could help me with some knowledge of what to do. 🙂
@Adonna Jones Hi Adonna. Please accept my apologies for not replying to your enquiry. I had pinned and liked your comment and can only assume I was sidetracked and forgot to return to you. Have you sorted your issues or do you still wish for some help? Apologies and regards, Broadlander.
I used to collect and restore Tilly lamps, always replacing seals in the pump and and also leaks at where the fuel control dial is. Nothing more enjoyable than a Tilly lanterns noise and smell, I grew up with them and love them 🥰 Megan~
Fantastic channel, I’ve been in Thailand for a year, I wanted to take my Tilley with me, keeps mozzies off at night on the farm while looking after the fish farm, I was trying to get all the paraffin out with cloth to make ok for cargo on the day container came , I just ran out of time and got the cloth stuck and couldn’t take it , so I’m back now and the lamp isn’t working well, so I go to u tube and there you are, thanks for very informative info. Especially on the different types of washers for different models.
Great video, very informative as I have recently acquired an old Tilley lamp. I have very fond memories of watching my Dad lighting his Tilley lamp, which is identical to the one in your video:-). I'm also old enough to remember when we had to use it for lighting during the power cuts back in the 70's, during the Miners Strikes lol. I'm looking forward to seeing mine going again. Cheers.
John Ball Hi, I’m glad you found my video useful and look forward to seeing some of your lamp experiences on RU-vid. Enjoy your Tilley. Regards Broadlander
Invaluable snippet re the old style valve handle "remove by turning anticlockwise". Just serviced my first Tilley. X246 Guardsman with brass pump and small round valve handle. :)
Hi Ian. I've had a play with a lamp and the only way I can get paraffin to rise up inside the pump is to mis-position or remove the nrv washer. I have to stand by my original comments and the bottom area of the pump. There are two springs in the pump, one being on the pump rod under the screw on cap and the other is in the base of it. The first spring is quite thick and only about 5mm long. The nrv spring is much thinner and approx 12mm long. It may be worthwhile giving a little stretch to see if this helps. Regards, Broadlander.
Thank you very informative and to the to the point . Do you do a video on servicing a bialaddin 305 as i can't seem to find one that isn't just about polishing the bits
Most informative, thank you. Been refurbishing Mk1 X246B as described plus heated and quenched vaporiser 4 times with carbon material removed. Despite pumping +++ getting pulsing and orange burn and not full white light of mantle with some carbonisation. Not sure if this is a pressure issue or part blockage, any advice gratefully received. Also does 1558 knob usually rotate beyond stop position when fitted?
Really great videos! I m just starting to explore and clean up my Guardsman and can t get the locking nut off the pump…… I ve tried heat and tapping with a hammer without success. I m wondering about slacking in oil next. Is this recommended? I m a complete novice, so any advice would be greatly received. 🙏🏻😁
@@broadlander1398 I'm doing OK, but still out of the picture for the moment on the websites, although I hope to attend a Couple of shows at the Charles Burell museum thetford & Bressingham both later this year, if you like I can pass on the details as Ipswich is off again this autumn. How are you doing , well I hope & I also wish you well for the house move you were embarking on not the easiest of tasks these days. I'm still collecting & have picked up some tidy tidbits in the last few months including some rare bits. Didn't know you were a tuber until today well done on your vids very informative & I hope you find time to make more . Keep well & in touch if you'd like ,it's nice not to be pressured on the websites made a Rod for the old back there , but I may get back into the swing when I retire in a few years time. Nice to hear from you , Stu.
That feed tube can be a bugger to clear if its sat on a shelf for decades and got blocked by mineralised crud, as you said some of that 1.6mm copper wire as used in the cooker mains supply is perfect as coathanger wire at 2mm is just a bit too stiff and thick to make it round the curvature.
Well that was fun . The new cup washer was tooooo lose so I had no preasure , ain't it good that I still had the oldie . Mass of scary flames all over the hood still have my eyebrows . Think I could have put the Mantle on besser . But happy me after a couple of nervous attempts I have a fair flame going now , er out on my back doorstep .Thank you for your help
WARRICK Tyler, the Tilley pump washer probably needs moisturising and softening up. I tend to use olive oil and work it in with my fingers until the leather is supple. You can use most any oil but beware of possible carcinogens if using mineral or synthetic oils and wear some gloves. When the leather is soft refit it to the pump rod and splay the washer out so you have to squeeze it into the pump tube. Glad all is working and remember you can always preheat more than once to avoid the flames until you become more accustomed to the lamp. Regards, Broadlander
Hi thanks for doing these videos it means I can rebuild my Guardsman. It's rough but that's character and it will be used in my gazebo whilst having a few rums. One thing I've noticed is I'm missing the brass clamp washer. I've ordered a service kit from fettle box I think it's called. Do you know where I could get the missing washer and spring for the pump please
Hi I have a newer model it’s the one with the red tank. I’ve been going through it recently as it stoped working properly. The pricker rod seems to be stuck, any idea how I can get it out? Many thanks.
Rupert van Sittert Hi Rupert. You send me a vintage Coleman and I'll do the video. Seriously though, I have only just obtained my first two Coleman lanterns a 201 kerosene and a 200a white gas. To date I haven't had to do anything other than fitting mantles. Possibly one for the future. Regards Broadlander
Great videos - thank you for doing these. I'm trying to renovate a Guardsman that was my parents and which has been sitting in my garage for 45 years! I've managed to dismantle all the parts and renew washers except for one. I cannot release the screw ring holding the plunger rod. I dont want to use grips to hold the base of it since that would scratch it. Do you have any suggestions for how i could release it so i can renew the pump washers? Thanks.
just add some penetrating oil around it from the top. keep it vertical & wait half an hour. I've literally just done only one tilley, and used grips & it did mark. You could add some rubber around it to protect it. Also noticed Broadlander does a slight tighten before attempting to release....
The damaged thread on the burner could be repaired with a die nut, but you’d have to find out if it is an imperial or metric thread (probably imperial if the lantern is old)
mr broadlander brought a x246b .it was a mess .cleaned the 3 coats of paint of cleaned brass .then replaced all seals.manage to get it working without mantal. i cannot ajust flame and when bruning it is a pulcating sound coming from lamp is this ok .or dose vaperisor need changing, thank u .sorry not to good at speling
This is getting interesting. Use a cotton bud to clean the aperture at the base of the pump tube. You should not lose any cotton on the metal, but if you do you may need to smooth off the surface with some fine wet and dry paper. It may be worthwhile stretching the spring a little to apply a bit more pressure to the seal. To my mind the only way paraffin can be forced back up the pump is if the washer is not seating properly which may indicate a weakened spring. Please keep me informed.
Hi Boaz. I think it is a combination of two or three factors. 1) not enough fuel in the tank. 2) not enough pressure in the tank. 3) not enough pre-heating. Make sure the tank is nearly full of paraffin and pre-heat fully. Turn the lamp on after giving 10-12 pumps and let it run for 30 seconds before adding more pumps - up to another 90 or until the pressure tit rises. Please see my Tilley Lamp Lighting Method video. Hope this helps and please let me know how you get on. Regards, Broadlander
Hi Boaz, thank you for your kind words and I hope I have been of assistance. I would say I am an enthusiast rather than an expert. Try searching for Classic Pressure Lamps if you want to see some real experts. I look forward to seeing your Tilley video.
I got given a guardsman lamp. Rusty, no pressure builds up by the pump and glass is missing a chunk. New glass and seal kit got ordered and the old glass will be used as is on a table outside with a small light inside.
Hi, Hope someone can help, I have recently acquired a very tall Tilly lamp, the nay marking being Rd 681/681, it is 231/2 inches from base to mantle Above the tank is a ribbed column there is no glass. Can anyone identify the model, should there be a glass and if so what type / shape. Any comments would be much appreciated. Bob
will do. have newer hi speed kit but camping with daughter last weekend and got all nostalgic so ordered a few bits and bobs to see if I can get the tilly working again. have a 210 primus as well older than me. ;-)
Hi Alan. Many thanks for subscribing. The cage is only available in steel, however a good clean up and some Hammerite smooth will look good. Regards, Broadlander
Hi Broadlander ...firstly really enjoyed your videos...looking for some advice i have a Tilley which I have changed the washers on and I ve got it lit but it keeps blowing out and the pump plunger lifts when in use..I assume its the non return but how do I fix it ? ..
Hi @caravanchris206. Yes, it will be the NRV (non return valve) that is the issue and it should be a relatively straight forward fix. I’m assuming you have replaced the seal/washer in the base of the pump and if this is so then it potentially has to be one of two issues. 1). The flat part of the washer is not seated correctly and is allowing pressurised air to pass. 2). The spring which holds the seal/washer is slightly weakened and is not pressing it firmly enough against the pump opening. I would suggest redoing the pump nrv end completely. Disassemble it, check the end of the pump is clean and clear of any debris and that the nrv washer is clean and the surface smooth and undamaged. At this point I would give the spring a gentle short stretch. Reassemble the on it making sure the washer seats well on the pump aperture. Hopefully this should get you up and running again. Please let me know how this works out. Regards Broadlander
Thanks very much, Just got a Tilley lamp to do up. It going to need the full rubber seal replacements. Do they come in different sets? The lamp I have simply has 279 on the base as identification.
Hi liam wilson and thanks for the subscription. Your Tilley lamp is model no. X246A which was first produced in 1964 and is still manufactured today. Your lamp was made in December 1979 and the number stamps on the base is the date code. There are various sets of seals available but personally I would recommend the "489 premium" available from The Base Camp at: www.base-camp.co.uk/tilley.html May be worth while getting a few mantles and lighting torch if you don't already have them. Please let me know how you get on. Regards Broadlander
10.20 , use tweezers to grab the little washer (Gland Washer 234) inside the valve tap nut, that way you won't harm the thread and most likely will remove the washer in a re-usable condition if it is reusable. The only downside to my method is that the Mrs might ask where her tweezers have gone !
Hi great video I have a lamp which I'm try to get working but I'm stuck, I've removed the vaporizer and the pricker but I can't blow through it ! In fact it looks like there is small nipple in the middle of the top of the vaporizer so now I'm lost can you help please.
Hi Stephen. I’m sorry to say, but you need a new vaporiser. It sounds like the tip of the jet cleaner needle has snapped off and rusted in. To the best of my knowledge there is no other real option other than to replace the complete unit. You could try heating and quenching a few times to see if this dislodges the offending part however, even if this is successful chances are the jet aperture will be enlarged and pass too much fuel. Good luck and please keep me informed of your progress. Regards Broadlander
Hi Found your video very interesting. I dropped on a Tilly in my Dads old shed, I think its a x246 and striped it down as per your video. I have a problem with the vaporizer tube in that the picker although it moves up and down I cannot remove it as per you video, neither can I see an hole in the top. Can you advise next move please. Anthony
The hole is very tiny, its not easy to see but if you turn the knob so the pricker pokes up and you can feel it slightly poking thru then all is fine. if your unable to pull the pricker out then the vaporizer tube likely has a lot of carbon deposits in it. one possible way is to grasp the bottom end of the pricker with a pair of pliers and in a twisting motion pull gently at first and slowly pulling harder. in all possibility this may break the spring so just be aware but it may come free also. at this point there is little to lose. You can still buy Vaporizer tubes so not all is lost
Hi, I am trying to restore an old Bialadin 305 and was wondering if the vaporiser on that is the same as that of a Tilly lamp in that it has a hole at the top for the pricker needle to work in?
Peter Cairns Hi Peter. Vapalux and Bialaddin lamps and lanterns use the same principles of vaporising paraffin into gas and the jet cleaning pricker system is the same however the vaporisers are not interchangeable with Tilley vaporisers. Vapalux spares are not cheap but are excellent quality and are available from Base-Camp here: www.base-camp.co.uk/Vapalux.html. There may be other sources on eBay but BC will carry by far the most comprehensive range of spares and accessories available. Regards Broadlander
Hello thank you for your very helpful videos, I am having a problem with my tilly lamp, my vapouriser opening is clogged with carbon and I'm wondering if you could suggest a way of unclogging it, I tried the heating and quenching method but it dilidn't work.
Hi Mary. Just to confirm, which end of the vaporiser is choked, the Jet end or the end with the cleaning needle? If the latter, is it possible to remove the cleaning needle? Regards Broadlander
@@maryoconnell35 If the blockage is only carbon deposit then operating the control cock cam should be enough to clear it. Sometimes the tip of the cleaning needle breaks off in the jet orifice and attempting to remove it is awkward to say the least and usually not very successful with either no effect or an enlarged aperture. If the jet needle is still sharp it may be worth trying the following: with the vaporiser removed from the lantern and the cleaning needle inserted correctly, place the blunt end of the needle on a hard surface and gently press down to force the tip through the blockage. It may clear the issue but unlikely to do so without damaging the jet, this is very much a last resort attempt. It is best to realise the Tilley vaporiser is designed as a finite life replaceable item, Tilley International are currently selling new vaporisers here: tilleylamp.co.uk/5inch-vaporiser. Good luck with your issue and please keep me updated on your progress. Regards Broadlander
@@broadlander1398 Thank you so much for your advice, I will have another attemp and if that fails I will order a new one, I will let you know the outcome.
Hi I'm new to your channel how do find out the manufacture date of a lamp currently I'm sure it's x246b however some one of your knowledge to identify it all that's stamped on tank is 1179 and its the light copper colour as in your video but with single gland nut that hold the frame. Hope you can help Kind regards
Hi. Thanks for your message, the date code on the X246B is nice and easy: 11 = November and 79 = 1979. So November 1979 is your answer. The older Guardsman models do not have date codes but can be categorised into date slots by the various features. Hope this helps. Enjoy your Tilley and please don’t hesitate to contact me if you need any further assistance or advice. Regards Broadlander
Hi broadlander.just acquired a tilly lamp 83 on the bottom suspect its a 246 alloy pump and control valve red bowl cleaned it all up new mantle and sp1 kit fitted. after pressurising and lighting smokes all the time suspect not atomiseing properly how do I check.thanks Allan.
Blocked or rusted up pin hole in top of my vapouriser.Whats the best way to unblock without damaging please? (Samre issue mr bumpy bumpy asked you 3 weeks ago but cant see your answer) thanks
Hi Broadlander. Do you have any new brown guardsman hoods?, or where I might get one? My one is okay but I'd prefer it to be fresher. Thanks in advance.
Alan Ashe Hi Alan. I'm afraid I don't have any spare brown hoods and like you I would also like to have mine in better condition. They do appear on eBay from time to time but in my world they would deplete already limited funds and possibly stop me from obtaining a lamp or part I need. Regards Broadlander
Hi Cliff. The earlier Guardsman lantern glass (X246) supplied had a deeper dished base than the later models. That being said, the more modern glass fits and works perfectly. So basically, deeper dished glass on earlier models for authenticity, newer glass if this doesn’t worry you. Regards Broadlander.
Ron Austin Hi and thanks for contacting me. To be honest I don’t tend to service other people’s lamps and lanterns, but thanks for asking. I am more than happy to assist and advise to help you to sort it yourself. I believe Base-Camp will service and repair lamps and lanterns but have no knowledge of their rates: www.base-camp.co.uk. What lamp/lantern do you have? Regards Broadlander
Hi Hunter McM. Thanks for subscribing, compliment returned. Service kits are available from several suppliers. Here are my main three: www.tilleylampsandstoves.com/product-page/tilley-lamp-repair-kit. fettlebox.co.uk/tilley-fl6-floodlight-deluxe-washer-kit.html. www.base-camp.co.uk/tilley.html. Enjoy your lamping. Regards Broadlander.
Yes grand . I have a new washer kit coming and they were also kind enough to explain this date thing . Your video is going to be very helpful for me . . Arrived on Tuesday fully stripped and cleaned - I hope -can't wait to try lighting it when refurbished
Once you have serviced it and are ready to light it, stop and watch my how to light video. It is better to preheat twice rather than sacrificing your eyebrows and stinking the shed out because the vaporiser is not hot enough. Please let me know how you fare. Regards Broadlander
Hi Broadlander, i'm hoping you can help. I have a X246A i have serviced the pump with new washers and leather cap. However, after pumping, no pressure is building up. I have tried the X246A with another pump and it works fine. Any suggestions to what the problem may be? Thank you. Kind regards, Ian Hollywood
Hi Ian. If you pump the pump whilst out of the tank do you get a sort of farting noise? If no, then first check to see if small nippled washer in the end of the pump has seated correctly against the brass end. Also did you soak the pump leather with oil to make it soft and supple before fitting? Hope this helps and please let me know how you get on or if more assistance is required. Regards, Broadlander
Hi Broadlander, thank you for your reply. You can feel the pressure when you pump. I also soaked the cap in oil overnight before attaching back onto the pump. It did light but Paraffin came out of the pump handle. This has happened with two brass pumps even though i replaced all washers and caps. When i fitted a later pump, not brass, the tilley lamp worked fine. I am baffled. Thank you for your suggestions! Ian Hollywood
Hi Ian. When you replace the washer in the end of the pump does the pump have just a spring which fits on to a nipple on the washer or is there a small metal cup as well?
Rajat Singh I am assuming you mean the Veritas 350. I will try to make a video in the new year when my busy work time is over and I have time to clean my workshop first. Regards Broadlander
Hi Broadlander, please help, I have cleaned my tilley after 20 years storage, put a new Tilly on from Julian from Hemsby, fired her up, But l am getting a pulsating white light, not a raw like sound, please help if possible, kind regards Mike South Norfolk. 🙏
Hi again Mike. A few questions please: 1) how many pumps are you using to light it after preheating? 2) how long are you leaving it to settle before adding extra pressure? 3) how many pumps are giving in total? Please give answers and I’ll do my best to help. Regards Broadlander. (East of Norwich)
gordon hamltn. All Tilley lamp products run on paraffin (kerosene) so I am assuming you are using the term generically for all pressure lamps. If a lamp is designed to run on petrol, Coleman fuel or naphtha then that is all it should be run on. The lamps will use different vaporisers/generators to suit the specific fuel. Some Coleman lanterns can be converted to run on paraffin by changing the generator and adding a preheater cup. I don't own any Coleman lamps but there is a wealth of information on RU-vid if you wish to do such a conversation. I hope this helps. Regards Broadlander
Heating with a blow torch then immersion in oil. ? Possible combustion? Also, blowing on or into parts leaves breath water vapour? A can of air possibly? Good video but I’d be conscious of the novice needing an A/Z of Safety
I haven’t use my Tilley for 3 years left paraffin in it for 3 years got it going last week outside but was getting a smell and could taste a chemical taste in my mouth
