Thanks Dan. Reassembly starts tomorrow after work. I’m excited to put it back together. I’ve got a few bits and pieces to get into epoxy still. Hoping by the end of the weekend it’ll be rolling again.
Thank You for the explanation of using a Frame Table --- set-up -- what to do -- and checking --BEFORE -- welding ----- Hopefully not ending up with a Parallelogram ----- Will be watching for your next adventure ---- Rodney
Thanks Mike, enjoyed seeing this done the right way. The frame table is another must have piece. I read through the comments and see that it all worked out. I'm ready to see her down the road and roll in the next project. I know you spend a lot of time getting this RU-vid content square, flat and level as well. Great job. On to the next project!
I don't work on hot rods I'm not a mechanic so that's why I watch to learn ! Super video this one I always wondered how guys that have race cars or dealing with rust or hot rods got a frame straight and now I know thanks Mike 👍
If you look back at your video at 6 minuets when you clamped the frame down it bent down about 1/8"witch moved the front horn down probably 1".Great video.
Ya the frame had a little tweak to it. I don’t know the history of it. Like any of us do w this old stuff. When I placed it on the table and made my stands it’s was off about 1/8”. Clamping it forced it level. Then w the plates it came out of the “jig” perfectly flat. The boxing plates held it in shape as it needed. 👍🏼
Shame about the extras Peter wanted on the Sedan. Maybe you could arrange to do a full build series over the winter season 2023/24 - called Peter's Project - where he pays for everything needed on the car, he pays you a fee for building the car, we get to see a full build during the off season. That could be a Win Win Win situation for all. Really depends on if he can wait and whether you have too many other things already lined up. Just a thought. Great content as always, hope the subs roll over 11K soon. 👍👍
Thanks for explaining how you use the frame table and level it first to your garage floor and then leveling the frame. For your Trans cross member, will you be making it bolt on or welding it to the frame?
I have the same Hobart MVP 210 welder. Been practicing on 1/8” steel doing corners and can’t get the beads right… too clumpy on the v4 setting with the 40 wire feed. What settings are you running? Do you increase your stickout? Maybe increase the gap between the two pieces? (I’m a very new welder) but want to box my A frame soon once I get the beads down. I tried going to v2 and 20 wire speed as well as v3 and 30 wire speed but it seems like it’s just balling up on the corner with minimal penetration.
I’d try going up to V5 first before going lower. Keep your wire speed at 40. If you’re burning wire to the tip, increase wire speed a little. V5 should get good penetration but may be too hot. Try V4 with your wire speed around 35, again you may burn wire to the tip. If you do turn it up a touch. Kinda surprised V4 at 40 is clumpy. Keep your ground close to your weld and make sure your metal is clean.
@@ThisOldHotrod I am going to say Nov till April LOL. I am sure one day I will move back. Fall River sounds like a pleasant place to live. really it's not but that is where family is.
Good on you for putting out content for the but all of this should have been done before you did all the work on the body. You always build the chassis first and then build the body off the “straight and true “ chassis. Now you will potentially need to shim and adjust the body
That’s true. However the body will have to come back off when the next owner finishes the car. He will have the opportunity to shim it if it needs to be shimmed.
