SG2 HHR Control Arm Replacement 

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Thanks for the comment and we hope you got everything lined up and back together. Thanks for watching!

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Glad we could help! We will have more videos coming out for the HHR as both Ken and I have one, so you might want to subscribe if you haven't already. We actually have another video out right now that shows you how to fix a turn signal stalk that won't turn off. It's a common problem on HHRs, Cobalts, and several other GM models. And the best thing about it is that you don't have to buy any parts - it's a free fix. Thanks for watching and commenting!

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Not the passenger side though?

Yes, you absolutely can change just the ball joint. Ken tells me that the time required will really depend on your automotive knowledge. He says he can usually change one out on an HHR in 20-30 minutes on the ground, but it will probably take 1-2 hours for the average person depending on their skills and the tools they have. Best of luck with your project and thanks for watching!

Ken tells me any round bar or object that fits in the hole will work. He says he has even used screw drivers to do it in the past. As for a common size punch or pry bar, I'd just buy a small set that has a few sizes to keep you covered. You'll end up needing more than one size for other projects anyway and sometimes it's cheaper to buy the set than to buy several individually.

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Thank you,sr you, are the best !!

Sure! Glad that you liked it enough to want to share it! Saw in your video thumbnails that you have a panel side HHR. Ken and I both have panel side HHRs with high mileages, so you'll see more HHR videos from us for sure. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Absolutely. You will definitely need to replace those bushings. That would be the place to start. But with steering issues, you might have other things going on too. When you jack up the front end, see if your wheels jiggle from side to side (this will indicate worn tie rod ends) and up and down (this will indicate worn hubs/wheel bearings). If you've got these things going on, you'll need to replace those parts as well. Also if your suspension is squeaking when you turn the wheel or push up and down on the fender, you have bad ball joints. That's why Ken recommended replacing the whole control arm so you get new ball joints and bushings.

@@TatteredSailsPics . I'll check what you described . Iam just worried it's a bad rack and pinion

In a word, yes. Worn control arm/suspension bushings will eventually cause a clunking or popping you can hear and feel when going over bumps and turning. It gets worse the more worn they get. Think of them like cartilage in a joint in your body. Over time, the cartilage wears down to the point the bones are grinding together, otherwise known as arthritis. Without artificial cartilage or joint replacement, the bones become deformed and the joint doesn't work properly, causing pain and other issues. Similarly, if the bushings become so worn they are almost non-existent, those parts start to rub together and move in ways that cause other problems (in addition to poor ride quality) such as steering and braking issues. Most mechanics will be able to tell you how far gone the bushings are and if they are in immediate need of replacement. As it is a "wear" issue, there will be many opinions out there on what wear amount is tolerable. Drive the car and listen for noise coming from either side of the front end as you turn and go over bumps. If you have a jack, jack up a side and look at the bushings. You can see where they are located in the video. If they have lots of cracks or pieces missing, get them replaced - especially if you drive the car a lot. If you don't have a jack, go to a different shop and ask them to check the bushings for you. If multiple shops you trust say it needs to be done, it needs to be done - more for safety than for comfort.

Check your new part against your old part and measure the stud that's causing the problem. If the measurements don't match up, you might have the wrong new part. If they do match up, there might be build up where the ball joint joins up to the knuckle. Make sure everything is clean and clear before inserting the stud - you might have to take a screw driver and clean out the hole. If it still doesn't line up, jiggle it around a bit before you add the pressure to it. If the part is correct and none of this other stuff is working, last thing I could tell you is you might have a bent or damaged knuckle. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!

@@TatteredSailsPics thank you

It would be easier to do them one at a time so you have more than just the axle and tie rod holding the knuckle. Also it will help lining things up. Plus, you don't run the risk of ripping out the ABS sensor wire or the brake line as much.

@@TatteredSailsPics No ABS But Thank you.

If the weld on the nut is still intact, the bolt probably just isn't lined up with the hole. You might be able to put a little pressure on the control arm with a jack to help get it in position, then use a pry bar or screw driver to line it up. If the weld is broken and the nut is loose, you've only got two options. You can cut a hole on the inside of the frame rail right above above where the subframe bolts up to it so you can get a hold of the nut with a wrench or pliers. The other option is to look to the rear of the subframe along the frame rail where you will find a hole. You might be able to get a pry bar in there to hold the nut. If you have to do either of these, make sure to use lots of penetrant so the bolt will move within the nut.

Ken tells me you can get the control arm assembly with bushings and ball joints from most parts stores. He doesn't remember exactly which one he got this particular one from, but it was most likely Auto Zone, O'Reilly, or a more regional company called Smyth. Those are the outlets he usually orders from.

Every bolt, nut, and screw on a vehicle has recommended torque settings from the manufacturer, but it is not vital to torque all of them to spec. Some, such as the axle nuts and head bolts, for instance, absolutely must be torqued properly. The control arm/ball joint bolts on this vehicle really just need to be tight to keep the control arms and knuckles from moving around, so the recommended torque spec is not absolutely vital. They can certainly be torqued to the proper foot pound number, and in theory, that would be the "by-the-book" way to do it. But in practice (to save work and time), if it just needs to be tight, you don't really need to worry about specific torque numbers. We will always let you know if it is one of those applications that requires specific torque settings.

Very little. If everything is tight and you can move it up and down freely by hand, chances are some of the rubber has worn away and is letting it slip. Usually if one side's bushings are in bad shape, it won't be long before the other side has the same problem.

Thanks, and thanks for watching!

There are no torque to yield bolts or nuts that need rolling resistance, such as axle nuts or pinion nuts. Specific torque is not necessary for this application. The bolts just need to be tight.

Air/impact to remove is OK. Torque to install. Torque sticks might work if you have the room, and understanding how they work

Ken says your two options are to cut a hole on the inside of the frame rail right above where the subframe bolts up to it so you can get a hold of the nut with a wrench or pliers. The other option is to look to the rear of the subframe along the frame rail where you will find a hole. You might be able to get a pry bar in there to hold the nut. He suggests using lots of penetrant to make sure the bolt will move within the nut. He snapped some pictures you might find helpful if you want to email him at kbaker.shiftinggears@gmail.com. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!