Slitting with a Stanley No.45

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I never had a slitting blade until I made one in my previous video. It's a handy thing to have, and I'll show you how to use it.
Clearly I've only just started using it myself, so I don't claim to be any sort of expert on this particular tool, but honestly, it isn't that hard to pick up.
Hopefully this will whet your appetite enough to try it out.
Any experts out there? Please feel free to give as many tips as you like in the comments section.
Making the blade: • Make a Slitting Cutter...
My Stanley No.45 Playlist:
• Living with a Stanley ...
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Опубликовано:

4 дек 2014

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Комментарии : 54

@kevinmello9149 8 лет назад

Glad I found your vids, I am just getting my new 45 geared up for work. I've already gleaned a few valuable tips on slitting and dados. Thanks for putting in the time, Mitch

@mitchwoodwork 8 лет назад

Great to hear somebody else taking up a 45. Cheers, Mitch

@JontoDickens 9 лет назад

I really enjoy your videos. I have very little money for quality new tools but these type of vintage classics are within my budget when I stalk the car boot sales so it's great to get some good info and tips on how to best use these little gems. Thanks.....

@mitchwoodwork 9 лет назад

Jonto Dickens I like the old classics too, it's nice to feel they've already done great work.Happy Christmas, Mitch

@dennismeko Год назад

Thanks Mitch. Great idea to have in my bag of tricks..

@mitchwoodwork Год назад

Cheers Dennis. Up until quite recently I've mostly worked in hardwoods which don't really lend themselves to slitting this way. And I've yet to have the consistent success that makes me reach for this tool over a sharp rip saw. Could just be the lumber that's being grown so quickly these days, my technique, the shop made cutter, or a combination of factors. Hope you have more success

@mitchwoodwork 9 лет назад

In reply to Alpha Scorpii's point: Yes, in the first example, since the sole of the plane is not sitting on the work. But in most cases, where the piece to be separated is a little wider, the sole will ride on the work, preventing the plane from lowering itself, and the slitting cutter must be advanced each time to progress the cut. Thanks for the comment Alpha, for some reason I could not reply directly. Cheers, Mitch

@alphascorpii185 9 лет назад

Well, you're right, and by the way I'm not sure that the front gauge is really quicker. On my plane it moves if I don't have the small screw tight enough, so it's pretty much quick with the wing screw. By the way I'm looking for those tiny cutters which seat in front of the blade and cut vertically, keeping a nice edge. Do you know where I could find some ? I've found a U.S. website, here www.stjamesbaytoolco.com/stanley.html, but there is no picture of items and I do not know the English word for that (I'm French, and I do not even know a French word for that !).

@mitchwoodwork 9 лет назад

Alpha Scorpii Hi, I don't see any on that site. What you need to look for are 'spurs' and maybe 'spur screws' for a 'Stanley No.45'. They also appear on the No.78 rebate plane (amongst others). If buying used ones, check how many of the three arms are still unused.

@SimopsAus 6 лет назад

Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD i

@Danmc50 9 лет назад

I had wondered what that thing on my #45 was for. Now I know. I'll have to give it a try. Many thanks.

@mitchwoodwork 9 лет назад

Dan McDaniels Cheers Dan, good luck!

@jimc4731 8 лет назад

I think you have the cutter facing backwards. Turned the other way you would not have to plane after the cut.

@mitchwoodwork 8 лет назад

I don't recall what the manual says on this. But, the donor board would then end up needing to be planed instead, if it was to be used. I'll have to give it some thought the next time I use it 😃 Cheers

@edwardcharles9764 9 лет назад

I'd watched part 1, making the cutter. Thanks for speedy upload in how to use it. Nice!

@mitchwoodwork 9 лет назад

edward charles Thanks Edward. I'm just about to film an appraisal of my cutter, so that might be interesting.

@LessTalkMoreDelicious Год назад

I recently ordered a Record 405 from the UK (waiting now). And, this splitting-blade is actually one of the features I wanted a 405 over a 50/050. I know many don’t care for it and think it’s a gimmick or won’t use it much. I know videos only mention it’s used for Venetian blinds, splitting thin stock, mouldings, etc. But, for me, I really want it mainly for a long-reaching (w the 8” rods) Japanese Kehiki/Kebiki marking-gauge/knife! Those Kehiki are like $40-50 alone, shipped to the US. It would be super helpful, for say… gauge-marking/knife-walling some huge 4’x8’ boards (for a saw guide) and then ripping them into your desired, smaller 2”-8” wide boards with a rip saw. Only other way to do that would be (hand tool/saw wise)… a long 2-3’ SS ruler, clamp it down on both ends, knife-wall it by hand and knife, and keep repeating down the length/line of 4’x8’ board, depending how long your ruler is. Not to mention repeated measuring/marking. This is very tedious. With that splitting-blade used as a Kehiki, would make marking & ripping boards waay easier! ✨

@mitchwoodwork Год назад

I never thought of using it that way, such a neat idea. Hope it works out well for you.

@DamEngineer 3 года назад

I believe the intent of the slitter is for slitting thin stock like for Venetian blinds.

@mitchwoodwork 3 года назад

Interesting. My understanding was it was mainly for separating mouldings, after forming them, from wide boards. Less wasteful than sawing.

@DamEngineer 3 года назад

@@mitchwoodwork - Yes, I think I should have said, I previously believed it was only for slitting thin stock like Venetian blinds. You've opened up new possibilities for me with this video. Thanks.

@DamEngineer 3 года назад

I'm also thinking the slitter might make a good guide for re-sawing with a frame saw. I don't have a frame saw yet but when I do, I think I'll give it a try.

@mitchwoodwork 3 года назад

@@DamEngineer worth a try. Definitely a groove ploughed with the smallest cutter would help any resawing

@RONNIEJNZN 8 лет назад

I have a Stanley 55. Also came with no slitting cutter. Wanted one, NHPP on eBay is just insane what he wants so your " make a cutter" video was watched but now I'm not so sure I need one. I'm not so traditional that I refuse to use a table or band saw but sometimes I rather not make the dust and noise. You should do a comparison of this method vs. using a narrow straight plough plane blade, say 2 or 3 mm in a Record 040,043,050 etc. Using the same method of going half way in from both sides I think the plane blade would cut much cleaner. Or you could cut a groove with the plow blade and finish with the slitting cutter or use it as a saw kerf to rip it. Just sharing some thoughts. I figure if it cuts cleaner, even though it's wider there would be less to plane off so it might not be that wasteful. Thanks for the vids, good stuff !

@mitchwoodwork 8 лет назад

Cheers! Interesting thoughts - I may just get around to trying some of that out.

@nsmith2908 7 лет назад

Thanks! I always wondered what that cutter was used for. :)

@mitchwoodwork 7 лет назад

Cheers. Yeah, it's quite an odd beast, compared to the others.

@ricksspringfield45 4 года назад

Thanks for the vid on using the cutter...if I may suggest, using wax on the tools surfaces that touch the wood will help ease the work a bit. Subbed

@mitchwoodwork 4 года назад

Quite right, thanks

@Centerboarder 3 года назад

The cutter is a rounded spear point, sharp on both sides. Make it sharp indeed and during use move the plane both forward and backward.

@mitchwoodwork 3 года назад

Thanks. Sounds like I could do with grinding it again.

@robertbrunston5406 6 лет назад

Thanks

@andyvan5692 9 лет назад

good video, maybe not the best use for the slitter, the plane could do better, but if you use the slit piece of wood you could use it as a veneer cutter (same as a paper guillotine) would work wonders at that !! or perhaps as a 'marking knife' for straight cuts at least.

@mitchwoodwork 9 лет назад

andy van Thanks, good points.

@deanreynolds2027 8 лет назад

HI mitch I'm a recent subscriber I've enjoyed all your videos thus far,I have recently started to ressurect planes which haven't been in my bag for many years. I was given a stanley 45 as a sort of graduating present from my apprenticeship around 20 years ago,Not having much patience in my teens lead me to put it back in its box after a few uses (once I could afford a router) Anyway I've noticed I'm a fence rod missing it seems to be 9.5 mm which is probably 3/8, spairs for these are like rocking horse s#×t,I was wondering about using stainless marine grade rod but it's either 8mm or 10mm I only have very basic metal work tools would you suggest filing the 10mm or change both rods to 8mm

@mitchwoodwork 8 лет назад

+Dean Reynolds Hi Dean. I feel well fitting rods are quite key to keeping the parts aligned, and as such it would be best to have a good slip fit. To have a 10mm rod turned down at an engineering shop really shouldn't cost more than a few pounds. Alternatively, you could try the 8mm rod, with some slotted 10mm tube inserts to pack out the holes. Filing would be possible, but to keep the sides parallel would be difficult, even chucked on a woodturning lathe.

@jistpassinthru 6 лет назад

I am not an expert by any means and perhaps when I watched you make the slitting cutter I failed to get a good view of the finished bevel end, but it appeared that you beveled both sides of the cutter. I believe that one side should remain flat which will provide a more stable cut. Also, I believe that the work piece should be scored from both sides. Enjoying your videos!

@mitchwoodwork 6 лет назад

Curt Cook Hi Curt. I wouldn't class myself as an expert on the 45 myself, so I could be wrong. I did make my slitting cutter with a double bevel, based on figure 10 in the manual. It's not the clearest picture of the cuter, but both the cut and the dotted line indication of the optional cut on the reverse side, suggest a double bevel cutter. Stanley's instruction does say "For thick boards slit both sides" which makes sense. Love to see an original slitting cutter, and get the proper dimensions and edge profiles, as mine is mostly guesswork.

@jistpassinthru 6 лет назад

Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD After careful examination of several cutters on Ebay I am compelled to agree with you. They do appear to be beveled on both sides. The 45 I acquired does not have one unfortunately. Thanks for your insight.

@mitchwoodwork 6 лет назад

Curt Cook I can understand why they get lost, since leaving them attached is quite dangerous when using the plane for other job's

@alangknowles 4 года назад

That looks hard work. I wonder if your home made cutter is as per original. Mine is 2.6 mm thick and is chamfered on both sides and both edges. The whole chamfered length from tip to rectangular cross section is 25 mm (1 inch). The tapered or cutting section seems to be reaching 11 mm (about 1/2 inch) deep into the wood. But I've never used it. Perhaps I'll have a go after seeing this.

@mitchwoodwork 4 года назад

That's interesting, I've never known the exact dimensions, just guessed from the picture in the manual. Mine is thicker, but otherwise virtually the same, so I think I should thin it down a bit. I have to admit I haven't used it much, but maybe if it's easier when thinned I shall.

@scottmartin7717 3 года назад

Alan g k - glad I've seen your comment. I was trying to figure out if mine was supposed to be beveled on both sides or not, I was worried a previous user may have done it

@pauln6917 Год назад

I think the slitting cutter would cut better if the tool was reversed with the bevels inward toward the body, or with just one cutting bevel. Doesn't seem like a feature a worker would use much.

@mitchwoodwork Год назад

I've not given it much thought, but it's a bit like a modern multi-tool; no one function is a easy as using a dedicated tool.

@ramonching7772 2 года назад

Slitting cutter is meant for thin panels. Not 3/4" panels. More like 6mm or 1/4" panels. A few scores on both sides would leave just 2mm I have seen similar Japanese techniques rippung boards by slitting.

@mitchwoodwork 2 года назад

I did a little research at the time and found accounts of three quarter softwood mouldings being split from wide boards this way. Run the moulding on the edge of a wide board that's easy to hold, then split it off, and repeat. I agree that quarter inch is far easier of course.

@blmeflmm66 9 лет назад

I'm not really a fan of the slitting cutter. I think it's pretty much a gimmick to claim an additional "feature" to the "plane that does it all". Haha! I think you're using it backward here. The bevel on the blade in this orientation will tend to do some bad things: The bevel will compress the wood binding which, considering the thickness of the cutter, is pretty much impossible to avoid with all but a paper thin cut. It will skew away from the bevel like a chisel and dig in to the stock and not the waste. It will make it impossible to get a vertical/square cut without tilting the plane at angle of the bevel. Bottom line, the bevel HAS to be on the waste side to have a chance of working properly. Even so, in my experience, that chance is extremely small. HA! Thanks for posting this video, though. It's one of the very few I've seen featuring this cutter. If you crack the code on it's use, and find and efficient use for it, PLEASE post a video of it.

@mitchwoodwork 9 лет назад

blmeflmm66 Sounds like you rate the cutter as highly as I do! I'm not sure I'll be rushing to experiment with it, but if I do crack it then I'll be sure to post it.

@petersmedley459 6 лет назад

With the splitter attachment, could you make one beveled on only one side, to push the waste side away, but keep a flat, straight cut on the working side...? Almost like a kiridashi blade?

@alangknowles 4 года назад

@@petersmedley459 but the one supplied is bevelled on both faces and front/back.