I went off of some things i read online to "adapt" my sm465 to my 5.3 and show you what you actually need without spending anything extra for adapters.
The reason for the holes being different. An LS uses a 10 mm bolt and the old style Chevrolet uses a 3/8 bolt. The LS bolts are .010 bigger than the 3/8 bolt.
Only problem is the friction material over hangs on the inside edge of the flywheel. You could of used a friction disk from a 93 diesel k2500. Has the right thickness and width.
Great video and info! Definitely going to look into this. I have a 79 C30 and the head cracked so I want to try and swap to a 5.3 but wanted to keep my trans.
part number on that pilot bearing is 12557583. Also, if you can find a 85-87(91) squarebody chevy bellhousing, it will take a chevrolet external driver's side slave with no adaptations. The fork pivot ball will need to be swapped with an adjustable one to compensate for the 1/8" difference in flywheel location between the sbc and the LS motor.
I’m doing the exact same think for my square body, I have the same parts roughly and it all bolted up pretty good, only issue is when I put the engine and tranny together and tighten it up to put back in the truck, the engine won’t far over. If I loosen the bell housing bolts 1/8 to 1/4 inch it bars over fine, did you have anything like this when you did it?
Not just yet, I am very close to actually starting the motor and I will go over how the trans is working with the LS motor. If you'd like some more info Dick's 4x4 Garage has some pretty good stuff on LS motors, he has a cheaper way to use a hydraulic clutch on the SM465.
Bro just use the 153 tooth flywheel critical on this application unless you want to shim a after market starter because starter for ls the bolt patter is different from the staggered pattern it's across only if you want to run stock ls starter and also longer throwout bearing
So........I'm going to take tech info from a guy that doesn't even know the difference between a pilot bushing, and a throw-out bearing.......yeah....smh
This will not hold up! If you want to understand why...go to novak adapter and you'll see that the combination he's using will only allow 30% of the clutch friction disc to grab the flywheel. It's going to vibrant something crazy! Those dowel pins are what centers the pressure plate on the flywheel. This whole thing is a complete problem waiting to happen and that very first time you have to slip the clutch for over 30 seconds...you better have a tow arranged. Spend the money...do it right. The flywheel needs a shim whoever commented change the fork...yeah, no! It's nearly ⅜" difference between the 2 flywheels position. You won't have enough throw on the arm to have the travel for the clutch. Not trying to be a dick I've done this swap 3 times and it's going to take over $1,000 if you do it right. Drill tap bellhousing tab to accommodate the missing hole...the top hole just is what it is. Go to Novak.
Interesting. I recall the pressure plate I bought for my swap (Luk brand I think?) had 3/8" bolt holes for all of six, so I'm gonna have to drill them all out to 10mm for the bolts to fit. Now I'm worried about clutch alignment, especially since the flywheel dowel pins will be removed. Any advice on that? What brand clutch kit did you purchase? Thanks.
I just bought a stock duralast clutch for a 79 K20 and ran it because it was cheaper than buying a "conversion" clutch assembly. You really just have to ream out 3 of the 6 holes.
MUFN's Garage the Luk assembly was a standard factory replacement for my 85 K35 which is why I was suprised there was a difference between mine and yours :) Could be a year difference
Did you demolish that clutch yet? as soon as I built my 383 I put it back with the stock clutch on my 91 Chevy. within 500 miles I demolish that clutch and it was in perfect condition. It literally shattered and stacked it itself. i was able to drive home with one little sliver of metal holding on and baby in it
@@davidgoucher7177 I did not and I used Texas Speed. Honestly I went to a Holley Terminator X later and it was a similar cost but 100% worth the money.
