Snapper Briggs Twin Engine Alternator Upgrade 

You should be able to. Alternators are under the flywheel. Use care in removing and use a puller so flywheel is not damaged.

@@wrecked3362 I don't have a part number, but it came off a single cylinder 12.5 Briggs that was on an MTD lawn tractor.

@@vanstechcorral So it doesnt matter which engine it comes from? All briggs have the same bolt patern for the stator?Opposed twin or single cylinder?

@@wrecked3362 Not sure. Has to match magnets underside of flywheel.

You would need to add a regulator to limit alternator output to 13.8 VDC to avoid battery issues and over voltage to the ignition module

Also the magnet was removed from the pickup coil. The flywheel has the magnet.

@@vanstechcorral So the flywheel just has two magnets to trigger each cylinder or are there more than two magnets Sir ??

@@victoryfirst2878 4 cycle engine, spark fires on exhaust stroke as well, known as wasted spark ignition. Works with opposed twin 180 degrees apart.

Into the switch that disconnects from the positive battery terminal.

Starter switch? And does it have to be 2 red wires twisted together and plugged into that red wire terminal connector from the regulator? Sorry too many questions, I’m trying to see if I can fix mine

@@josem.2909 I changed to a different alternator. Also there is a pushbutton to energize the starter. The switch turns on battery power to the HEI ignition module and the coil and the positive side of the regulator is tied to that, as well as the switch for the lights. The ignition is a battery powered GM car ignition system.

@@vanstechcorral ok I think I get it, let me tell you something, I got an old mower and found it doesn’t charge the battery, but because it’s missing the wiring from the connector coming off the stator, (it could also be that the stator itself is burnt and won’t put out any voltage, but let’s suppose it does put out voltage and current) ok, I checked put those wires and judging by the connector seems to be the dual charging stator like the one you removed off your mower, it has one black wire and one red wire with a diode. So the wiring should be like this, the black wire (AC output) should go to the light switch and the red wire (with the diode) I should hook it to either the positive battery post or to the post on the solenoid connected to the +battery post, Did I get it right?

@@vanstechcorral ok I think I get it, let me tell you something, I got an old mower and found it doesn’t charge the battery, but because it’s missing the wiring from the connector coming off the stator, (it could also be that the stator itself is burnt and won’t put out any voltage, but let’s suppose it does put out voltage and current) ok, I checked put those wires and judging by the connector seems to be the dual charging stator like the one you removed off your mower, it has one black wire and one red wire with a diode. So the wiring should be like this, the black wire (AC output) should go to the light switch and the red wire (with the diode) I should hook it to either the positive battery post or to the post on the solenoid connected to the +battery post, Did I get it right?

It should.

Yes it will charge the battery.

He used a puller. You do not need to use a puller, wastes time. Loosen the bolt screw it in like half way out pry bar under the flywheel put upwards pressure and one wack on the bolt hiding the flywheel while holding upwards pressure on flywheel with prybar it'll come right off doesn't hurt anything doesn't even damage the bolt takes 30 seconds

@@sawyerbennett8227 You can weaken the flywheel. It's not a pleasant experience when they disintegrate at 3000 rpm. It could be life-threatening or result in serious injury. Exchanging a few minutes for a lifetime of suffering is a terrible bargain.

Can't recall now but used an air impact and socket. Measure nut head with calipers.

Also used a puller tool to avoid problems with flywheel cracking. Hammer blows a no-no.

My mower has a 1 and1/4 standard.

Can't recall at the moment but matched from SAE size, not metric.

There are two separate sections in the old stator, that independently produce current, with different gauge wires and number of windings. The replacement produces one AC output that can be rectified into DC and regulated.

@@vanstechcorral You seem familiar with this. What would happen if I removed the diode and hooked a regulator up to it? (The same regulator in your video)

@@5.43v If you look at the Briggs engine manual you will see the regulator requires a different stator. Leads are not the same, the two output stator has one side on each part as common ground.

@@vanstechcorral So, it's impossible to use the ac side as dc?

@@5.43v Check out the leads with a multimeter while running the engine at varying speeds.

Nah but they do

You're mistaken in this particular case because the custom ignition source, coil and car battery are needing regulated 13.8 to function, being car 12V equipment, and the lighting and tach are digital 12V LED. I am sure you know that unregulated voltages vary widely higher.

I need more power to run a sprayer pump so need to do this Mod good info re the coils

Just changed the stater coil and fitted the voltage regulator both with the two Yellow AC wires so I can get power to drive my spray pump This is a perfect upgrade as will charge a flat battery at 10 Amps and battery now floating at just over 14volts Now converted all lights to work on 12v DC and all good The old AC and half wave DC battery trickle charge system with a the diode in the red wire is a well out of date low cost system that does not look after the battery very well in any shape or form Are you saying above that the old Stator can be used with the diode in the wire work with a voltage regulator Is this the other regulator I see on ebay with just the one yellow wire please Yes this does need explaining full by someone as it all seems not explains fully But this post has got me working fine thanks for info

I also see there is a single yellow wire voltage regulator on ebay this is maybe the one to work off the original stater with the red and black wire would thing you would just use the wire with the half wave diode in it what do other people know