Thank you Thank you Thank you x 1000! This video made my life so much easier. My stairs had carpet glued to the side of my stringers. After I removed the carpet, I needed to install a veneer on the stringer to finish it; after which I plan to put just carpet on the treads and risers. I would have never thought to nail the wood along the stringer like you did and take a mirror image of it with a triangle wood template. I knew I would have to notch out the ends of the stair nosing and use a triangle template but wasn't sure how I was gonna transfer the triangle template onto the veneer. Genius!!! Trade secret!!! However, I did figure out to use the one completed veneer from the one side of the stair stringer and outline it for the other side. That saves some time and worked perfect. Cheers buddy, you da man!
I like this type of video recording! It really shows your point of view and for those who are wanting to tackle this type of work (diyers and or skilled people) that way they can clearly see how you did all the process. Sometimes when you get a second person recording some steps get missed during recording. Worst are the ones with a stationary recording but in all they are posting to show and help others!
Thanks for this. We tried scribing a skirt using a brad nail and it’s just too easy to be out of plumb/level. I was about to throw in the towel before I watched this, so thanks!
Thanks for making this! It gave me some great ideas and insight into your process. People who complain about the camera work amaze me. You realize he didn't have to make this video but chose to do the extra work and upload it in order to help people, right?. Or no?
You inspired me to build my shed. Unfortunately I ordered my lumber from Lowes and got complete junk. They failed to pick it up as well. My dream is mostly ruined but I will try and salvage what I have. I'm going to Home Depot or a local lumber yard for future lumber.
How do you know the angle to cut the 1x whatever it is 10”or12” at the bottom to start? You have a angle cut at the bottom of the skirt board before you nail your skirts to the wall and scribe? How do you know that angle? Did you plumb up and then just 90 it off of that? I’m doing this tomorrow and tried a pattern to make but fucked up the bottom. It ended up shorter than I wanted?
Any time it is to be painted we use MDF.. if is is to be stained, we use veneer plywood of whatever wood species the posts and rail are made of. Around here alder is most common, but we also use oak, cherry, maple, hickory, etc.
what did you do to cover all the notches at the bullnose treads, just leave them rough exposed? I have the exact same issue, but I want to know if you finished it tighter, or trimmed it out? This is exactly my issue on my stairs.
The carpet covers the rough cut in the bullnose. If it was hardwood treads then I would put the the skirting on first, or use a flush cut saw to make a nice tight cut into the nosing.
What about the other side? The mitered mop/skirt board to riser? That's the fun one. :) I always do it with either a sidewinder or worm drive depending which side it's on as they miter in opposite directions. There has to be a better way. Any suggestions?
I'm going to upgrade the plywood treads in our basement and you've answered my skirt question, thank you. I saw in the comments, you mentioned removing the bullnose from the stair if they ever wanted wooden stair treads. My question is do you put the solid wood tread on top of the plywood or remove the plywood and attach the new solid wood tread to the stringer?
@@IdahoStairs thanks for the reply. btw, I looked at the dropbox link you posted, beautiful work! Hopefully you don't let the haters get under your skin!
I have an oak staircase. Ttreads are bullnose, and they never installed a skirt board. I want to do this and saw several videos on how to. Currently, I have wallpaper from the chair rail moulding down to each tread and riser, so each piece of wallpaper had to be intricately cut by a professional to fit those stairs. I won't have the skirt board installed, (too difficult) but will improvise by adding a 1 1/2 inch moulding on an angle above the bullnose perhaps two inches. I will then wallpaper inside that space where the skirt board should have gone, in a brownish color to complement the wood oak stairs. Above that moulding I will wallpaper up to the chair rail a Lincrusta brand embossed wallpaper. Since it didn't come with a skirt board I'm leaving all those headaches behind in trying to attempt this procedure. Part of the problem is I am not confident I could obtain a tight fit especially because of the bullnose on each tread, and I don't want to use a quarter round moulding to hide the flaws (spaces) on each tread. I think this will be my solution to getting a skirt board effect by again selecting a brownish tan wallpaper that blends in with the oak stain. But wouldn't that be something if I could find a wood veneer instead of a thick skirt board and minimize cutting except for a sharp blade knife? Any thoughts on this issue?
You should be able to get a hold of a thinner oak veneer. 1/4” or 1/8” thick. But whether it is wallpaper, or 1/4” veneer, or 3/4” solid wood, The easiest way for a tight fit is to remove the nosing where the skirt is going. Use a flush cut saw (The type of saw used by the flooring trades to undercut door jams. Allowing them to slide the flooring under the door jam and casing rather than try to cut around). Then use a piece of the material you decide on as a guide block and cut into the front of nosing until you hit the riser. Use a small chisel and break off the piece of nosing. This way you only have to cut the 90° shapes of the rise and the run. Use the block method you saw in the video to trace out your skirt, or wallpaper. Cut the material then put it into place. Then I lay a pencil against the surface of the stairs and trace a final cut to bring everything in tight. I hope that helps
Thanks Idaho for your quick response. I think you've given me that extra encouragement to go forward with obtaining the right tool for the job. Appreciate it! Thumbs UP!
Another thought.... if you have trouble finding a thin oak veneer, you could cut the shape out of something like 1/8” MDF material. Then paint to color match the stain. Or even put wallpaper on the cut out skirt, then trim to match the shape.
@@IdahoStairs Years ago I was at a marble and granite countertop shop. In the warehouse was stacked all these beautiful huge sheets of stone. Probably before the computer technology of measuring for countertops with software, they used a flexible almost clear like plastic. Like a plastic cover on a spiral notebook. These large sheets were rolled up and tossed out, and I grabbed them thinking I could use them for something. Had them for years, never used them, so I tossed 'em out...go figure. But I could get more, lay these sheet pieces against all the treads, and risers, and I could also tuck them in between the wall and some of the treads/risers, them tape or glue them attaching all of them, trace the tread, riser, AND bullnose, cut to fit, and use that as my template, whether I use wallpaper, MDF, or something else to make my skirtboard, and top it with a 2 inch stained trimboard. This could possibly work.
Why notch your steps first and then mark? I mark my steps first and then cut 1/4 off each step if needed. Does this make a difference? Also for the panel molding what's the quickest method to have them cut to size? Thanks I'm currently learning stairs and I love learning new ways to do thing's.
I notch the nosing profile out so i do not need to carve around each one. This also lets the skirt sit right on the corner where the rise and run meet. This should eliminate the need to remark and recut a second time. I think the best method for panel mold is to get the correct angle on one end and leave the other end long. Then hold in place, so the cut miter sits perfect into the next piece, then mark your next cut. Cut it a 1/4” long so you have enough length to adjust your angle if needed. I also try to cut the longer pieces first, and work down to smallest (i do this with all stair parts). This leaves the least amount of waste, and if you have any that end up too short, or get cut wrong, you can use it on a shorter section as you work your way down.
@@jonathanbailey1086 No. The block allows you to draw a line that is a consistent distance from each step and riser. So any difference in rise and run from step to step is automatically adjusted for.
Wow that was rough bud please tighten things up before putting it out there. That job could have been a work of art stairs are the best thing to show off a property. Robbie from Huyton UK
I wish you would've slowed down a tad when you were doing the layout or maybe explain what you're doing when you started. I have a similar project though they are nre stairs and I have to watch it over and over to figure what you're doing initially.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the input. I really did not intend for my videos to be a step by step tutorial. But people who have the tools and some know how may discover some tips or tricks from watching. I am also willing to try to answer any questions you may have.
We use 1/2” thick MDF. Bought in sheets then cut to 9 1/2” rips. The material in this video was painted prior to installing. 9 1/2” is about the minimum size you would use on most stairs. 1x12 Primed MDF is what many people use for paint-grade skirts.
@@IdahoStairs Is it worth cutting the stair like you did in the beginning, with the sawzall? Rather than just cutting the skirt board to fit around the step that's jutting out?
I do. This is the third one I have had. It has a few problems. But it really cuts well. I prefer the 10” blade. It gives you much more control on where you cut in and where you stop.
Hello Idaho....great project. This is exactly what I've been waiting to so since my treads and risers are butted up against drywall, so I will follow your lead. But speaking of saws, in 1990 I bought a Delta saw like yours, only used it to install baseboards for my home, then stored the saw that many years ago. Do you have an opinion on using that saw for accuracy and ease of use, or should I go out and buy a new one. I don't see Delta's anymore and wonder why not? Thanks for replying back.
In most cases the stair skirts are going in before the floor covering. When the carpet or wood goes on the stairs it covers the notches cut into the skirt. This means the cut does not need to be precise. A skill saw or jig saw is a perfectly acceptable way to notch in skirt boards.
Ron Bown I misunderstood and answered before I watched the video. That’s about what I charge to install skirts treads and risers on a traditional staircase. Straight runs. No handrails. I include glue and fasteners in the price. No framing work. If it calls for it, some leveling.
@@josechicas29 here in Michigan I'm getting $150 to $175 and that covers stair tread and risers. Right now we're using a lot of birch plywood for risers and then it gets painted. Also that stained and finished with polyurethane usually the riser is put in primer and the painter usually comes and does the finish painting.
Cosmo Scrivanich These stairs were to have carpet on them. The carpet easily covers the gaps. Most framed stairs have a gap of about 3/4” between the framing and the sheetrock. When the stairs do not get skirted, the carpet is all that covers. If the stair treads had been a finished product, I would’ve used a flush cut saw on the nosing, then cut the skirt tight to the treads and risers.
Cosmo brought up a great question and one that needs to be discussed. We have been remodeling our house the the last three years and have learned a ton. So I’m writing this great advice because of my really bad huge gap experience that my stair guy screwed up with our stairs skirting on the risers (vertical gap) which affects what you put across your risers. That being wood or carpet. My gaps can run from almost a inch wide down to 1/2”. Which is terrible. Because I’m having 1/2” thick carpet ( Berber like) installed and you don’t put padding under the carpet on the risers because it shortens your tread step!! Only pad on the top of the treads. SO TO ALL STAIR INSTALLERS if carpet is going on stairs risers and treads DONT LEAVE A 3/4” gap NOT even a 1/2” gap. Get it as tight as possible, another words, scribe it to the clients own stairs. Then your client won’t be stuck with trying to figure out how to cover/fill the huge 3/4” gap you left them with on the risers which effects the steps on the treads. Arghhh Again DONT leave a gap anywhere more than 3/8”. Figure client could be installing thin 1/2” carpet. I hope this helps anyone BEFORE you have a stair guy install your skirting.
Nowhere in this video is there a half-inch gap between the treads /risers and the skirt.. The only gap is between the nosing and the skirt. It does not matter how thin your carpet is. When it runs wall to wall and wraps over the nosing, the gap in question from this video is not an issue. On a sidenote, you can add whatever you want to a riser. As long as you do it to every step the run remains the same
Idaho Stairs Your skirting is fine around the riser/tread in this video. When you mentioned above that it was ok to have a 3/4” gap I thought you were talking between the vertical on the skirting where it meets the riser. So I believe I misunderstood where this 3/4” gap was ok. It’s been a pain trying to figure out how to cover my huge gaps at the end of each of my risers where my 1/2” carpet is suppose to run up to on each side of my risers. My only solution that I can think of that will look okay without adding 3/4” thickness to the depth of the tread is to put some type of molding in the corners and leave a slight gap at top so when my flooring guy comes to install the carpet he can roll it right under the bullnose of the front tread and staple. Then add my 1/2” carpet ( no padding) right up to that molding I put in the corners of the risers. I hope this makes sense. Lol. I wish I could put a pic on here. It would sure help explain and then you might even have some suggestions.
This is very educational! I am refinishing my stairs from being carpeted and there is an overhang in the tread and I’m not sure if I need to cut it to make it even with the riser? Before cutting the skirt? I’m going to paint them and place a runner rug down the center so the sides will be visible about 2 inches on each side? And suggestions? Thanks!
The nosing should remain in place where there is to be carpet. I would cut off 6” of nosing each side. Cut in the skirts, then add painted wall treads and risers each side. This looks really nice and gives an edge for the carpet to finish against. Wish i could add a picture in this comment. Maybe internet search wall treads to get an idea?
Thanks for this comment! I'm preparing to rip out builder grade carpet on the stairs in my Hubble home. Do you know how the carpet gets laid against the tread using this method? I'm not sure how to do this transition or what it is called. I've googled all night. I like the idea of not buying expensive treads only to cover with carpet. I can cut them down and just use on the sides. Thanks!
I do not do carpet. But it looks to be done like any carpet. Tack strips next to the wood wall treads, then stretched, trimmed, tucked. It will look like any carpet-to-hardwood floor transition.
When you add your tread and risers up the sides of the stairs it gives you the finished edge for the transition. Your hardwood nosing should also stick out further than the framed stair nose. (Pre-carpet)
I have that same Makita Saw and I can’t stand it. It seems if the arbor is warped and it vibrates a bunch when citing harder woods such as oak. Does anyone else have this problem.
That’s too bad. I really like my Makita. This is the third one I have owned. As long as I have a good blade on it slices right through white oak, maple, hickory, etc. I believe James is a spammer. Probably tried to put a link in his comment, but that is not allowed on my channel. But I would never buy a saw that is battery powered for two main reasons. 1- If they are like most battery powered tools, the battery wears out before the tool, and cost as much as the tool to replace. 2- last thing I need to do is to show up at a job site, and can’t start working because my chopsaw battery needs to charge.
Idaho Stairs Thank you for the info! You did an awesome job and I’m going to be taking a crack it! Is there a specific style of that panel molding and where did you get it from. It looks really sharp!
Oh are used to get it from our lumber supplier. I do believe we have a local guy who mills it for us. It is a pretty common type of molding even if it does not have the same detail on it. I am pretty sure that even Home Depot or Lowe’s has their own version so you should be able to find something. Or worst-case scenario, use a tablesaw to notch a half inch by quarter inch corner out of any piece of wood and there’s your panel mold.
The other day I asked a contractor to do the same his answer was sorry it can’t be done the skirt must be installed at the same time you’re installing the stairs
Yeah, a lot of people make a much bigger deal about it than is necessary. It is no different than when a painter tells people there is no way they can let me put in the paint grade skirts and risers, at the same time as the hardwood treads or else it is impossible to paint them. So he wants me to turn a one-and -a-half day job into a three day job. All because he doesn’t want to spend two hours taping off the treads before he paints.
The time and precision and excellent video detail and all you do is give a back handed compliment, fool To the guy doing the work, very well done! It's not an easy job getting all the cuts just right
I do not want to deal with that. Who would paint the new piece of base to match the existing base? Who is painting the wall, where the new piece of base is caulked in, to match the existing wall color. After your fourth try, and the homeowner is still not happy with the color match, was removing the base worth it?
Well, since it was pre-existing base, and I cut the 45 degree angle on while it was still nailed to the wall, didn’t think I did too bad of a job. The blade wobbled a little on it’s way in, but nothing a little caulking can’t fix. Thx for watching.
No thanks. I got used to using the chop saw, since the risers miter into the skirt boards on the open side. It has got to be pretty accurate. Especially when cutting miters to bring two hardwood veneer pieces together.
Yes, I know. When cutting skirts on the open side I miter them for the risers to tie into. Best way is the chop saw. So I have just gotten used to cutting all my skirts this way.
I don’t know how I ended up on this video. But as long as I’m here...I’m a 30 year carpenter by trade, and there is no reason to butcher up the tread nosing like that. I don’t treat my clients personal property like that for my own gain (ease of install). Have a little respect Idaho Stairs. To many lazy butchers out there !
I did not know putting a notch in the rough framing was “butchering”. But as a 25 year stair carpenter by trade, I would enjoy seeing a video of you doing a staircase..... Maybe you thought that was a hardwood finished tread? It was not. Why would you worry about a notch in the rough framing? The carpet covers all of that. And, if they ever convert from carpeted stairs to hardwood treads, that nosing has to be cut off anyway
If you take a moment and go to that link, there are many photos of my butchering abilities. A good carpenter will enjoy it..... Did I forget to mention that I butchered a handrail into the house of the Idaho governor at the time, Dirk Kempthorn? Ex-US Senator Larry Craig also has a custom staircase that I butchered just for him.
