here's an idea: a full video guide on assembling your bracket system with narration and all. edit: and of course PDF-based instruction manual, maybe even printed for the customer for extra fee.
Learning a lot! Great video. Looking forward to seeing how you insulate without using spray foam. Considering building a home using your products and methods.
Is there anyone in north central Florida that knows how to install your products? You have managed to invent a simple modular method of interior improvements for sea cans which I suspect a lot of young people will be buying for a starter home.
Wow this kit is amazing. Exactly what I was looking for. What gauge steel studs are you using? I need to hang some stuff from the ceiling. Are the ceiling studs fairly strong with this design?
How many studs and how many roof studs and tracks and flanges are needed for a 20’ container? What screws (exactly) are needed for a 20’ container? Approximately what would the material costs be for framing a 20’ container including the door?
Frankly, this is pretty hard to follow... also, if you measure 2.5" out from the wall at the bottom then you wall isn't plum. I just measured the distance at the top and it's 2.75". I'm installing your kit right now.
There doesn't appear to be a thermal break/gap between the internal from and the external wall of the container...am I correct? Doesn't all of thermal transfer thru the metal studs, miscellaneous framing and the walls of the container?
I think with this method---if done properly---the only thermal bridging allowed is from the steel stud brackets holding the top tracks, because there's that 2.5-2.75" gap from the exterior wall to the studs. That's the true beauty of these brackets and corner covers (besides conveniently setting your ceiling height and distance from exterior walls)
Highly used in commercial construction because it is ridiculously faster, and doesn't have the warp/twisting that lumber risks, as well as no expansion/shrinkage with weather. The only thing special about how they do it here is having their brackets connect it to the container. This also doesn't risk the issues with condensation that wood does in a container if you not PERFECTLY sealed.
Like Lego :-) Me Like... wait till i filnaly found my 20ft HC. I think ill do everything by myselve - just the Sprayfoaming i want to Blame someone else for heheh.
How much width is left from the 7'8" starting point ? What are the pros and cons of framing the inside this way vs InSoFast's system of insulation with integrated "studs" ? I know your focus isn't mods for residential purposes but what's out there is usually crap and not code compliant, while your mods are actually engineered ! Lastly let me be a heretic and ask why, when the can provides a steel structure already, does everyone add some type of interior framing ? Yes, insulation and fireproofing but why not screw (or rivet) through and into the walls themselves, and seal afterwards ? You do for your window kits, if I've understood them.
7' 3 1/4" between the steel studs. I have an Insofast sample at the yard. I should measure what that leaves you and compare. Insofast leaves a small gap between the container corrugations and the foam which will condensate, freeze, and frost-jack your walls in the winter. If there is a gap between rigid foam and the corrugations, that needs to be ventilated so it can remove humidity and depressurize. The pros of framing this way is being able to use 2lb closed cell spray foam that wraps around every stud to eliminate thermal bridging from the studs and the side wall corrugations. Steel studs are not porous so there is no opportunity for mold or mildew to grow in the wall system. You are correct about the information floating around the internet on container homes. It makes me cringe and is the reason we started this channel: to educate the public on the misconceptions and demonstrate a proper way to do things.
Don't screw through the walls anywhere other than installing the window/door framing kits. The flange of those framing kits protect the bare metal exposed after drilling and the spray foam covers it from the inside. If you randomly drill holes and bolt through a container, it'll rust through in ~3-5 years.
It’s obvious that some of the screws that he is screwing in are tripping the fixed clutch or popping the bit out of the screw and spinning when he bottoms out which is good. It’s also very obvious that at least half of the screws that he is screwing in using a non adjustable nut driver instead of a clutched screw driver designed specifically to drive screws is stripping both the stud and the top and bottom track which is not good.
@@TheContainerGuyTV Insofast claims 7'4" using their panel with 1/2" drywall, yielding a bit over R12 for insulation. Here in the US northern climates that wouldn't meet residential code, which can require (for stick built) R13 in stud cavities plus R10 continuous or R20 plus R5. The continuous portion, to mitigate "bridging loss" through studs and sheathing, is usually done with rigid foam on the exterior. The latter combo can lead to cold sheathing with attendant problems of condensation and thus rot, mildew, mold and loss of effectiveness of the insulation. Obviously a continuous vapor barrier (per code) between the living space and insulation should prevent this on the interior surface but doesn't help on the outside. So combining interior and exterior insulation can be "tricky". I haven't (yet!) watched all your vids but I've not seen you insulate, or side, the exterior. So you avoid one issue above. Again I know you don't do residential so perhaps code compliance is different from the above. Maybe you've done a whole vid on insulation and what your customers need that I've not (yet!) seen. I'd like to see how you meet roof insulation (R49) as well.
Many times the stud screws are ommited in steel frame construction, since the wall covering being attached to it creates a rigid connection anyhow. The only time you see them used 100% is at corners and anywhere the stud meets an "end" like a doorframe. This helps prevent bumps along the length of wall covering where the screw heads would be along the ceiling and floor as well.
25 years of structural steel stud framing and never have omitted any screws for any stud. Now there are instances to which against a concrete wall the back side screws are not used but on the face always. Also some instances the wall itself is using a taller track with slots, this track gets limited screws and the drywall is not attached to the top track for expansion and contraction of the wall and or exterior shell that is the building. Using "sliders" at corners still get screwed in when the drywall passes into the wall cavity. As for any " bumps" there is few of these since one does not screw drywall in the areas where the studs are screwed. Main times you see this are at corner of doors and windows to which get "cased" or windows that end up with corner metal for drywall taping and mud. While the drywall does help with the sheer and rigidity of the structure i would state that drywall itself is not a structure which one would rely on the screws holding it on to now be the structure of sheer. If this is how it is done in your area i would quickly move to an area to which does not work with the practice of which you state
