Problem solved! Subaru ‘ticking’ is gone! Full power is restored and my heart has finally slowed down! Also I have been to meet a friend with another ‘Jap’ car to take some photos and have a drive!
Great news Lee! I would suggest in case of a wire sparking too and earthing somewhere start at night in pitch black darkness no lights on or around car. Look for any sparking/earthing wires inside engine bay or under car!! How I found one of 6 coil packs on my Camry was cracked and ticking onto head... Many engine clean the engines using de-greasers or even dishwasher soaps.. Can take oil out cover of wires and they become brittle and it causes issues. Hence plastic covers over engines these days and agents most hand clean engine bay!..
If you want to be sure, get it on the lift, and run it while examining the areas you suspect. You can isolate the sound from leaks better by using a tube small enough to insert near areas of interest like a stethoscope, A solid pry bar or screwdriver can also be used in direct contact with your ear/jaw to conduct sound directly.
From one turbocharged car owner to another, zip tie all rubber vacuum lines and use the best clamps and silicone hoses you can on your car. Because when the engine is in boost, all the vacuum lines are too. You won’t believe how much those little leaks can add up to. You might gain another pound of boost but more importantly, you will have a more responsive engine because sensors will respond faster and more accurately as well as the waste-gate. I’m not promising the world but, on my new to me’07 Audi A4 with the 2.0 turbo and Quattro, I restored almost 4psi and went half a second quicker in the quarter mile. I’m very happy to see you enjoying your Scubi instead of stressing over it. Best of luck to you from across the pond.
Good advice, I will be going through replacing any vac lines that haven’t yet been done. We did most of them when the engine was refitted but there’s a few outliers that are bigger that need doing!
@@BarumBTS thank you for replying young sir. Just zip tie all rubber lines where they connect at. Because, even though many are new, at 1 bar or about 15 psi, air will blow around the metal or plastic connection points and lots of tiny leaks add up to boost loss. Again, best of luck and well wishes with all that you and the rest of Barum
Sure it's been a frustrating journey, but you have learned a lot, and doubtless will learn more. My Brother had similar problems with a Volvo 262C back in the day. Be glad that Sour Subaru is relatively cheaper to repair, maintain and operate. That "Confidence in Motion" slogan from Subaru is no joke - all you have to do is keep on top of your tires and brakes to enjoy it for years to come.
I would think 8.7:1 compression ratio is plenty high enough with a turbo. You are right not to chase numbers. It is a seriously quick car already. Care for it well. I hope you will get many years of good service from it.
Loving the colour Dude. I've just got in from a spin in my latest motor. I'm blue to but with subtle sparkly bits. Just a bog standard 1600 focus. So nowhere near your leauge. But it is a little special edition. Deal at a price so couldn't say no to. I even won a little burn down the duel carriageway. Foot down, 2nd gear. 10 to 65 mph in fast enough for me. Moter offering more if I wanted to thrash it Don't tell anyone but I almost dropped it into reverse instead of 5th gear hitting cruise thinking I was driving a 6 speed. DOLT ! But at the end of the day when the motor is running good, you feel GREAT !! Deffo film the boss milling that manifold. Cos looking at it, if he can, he knows his shit ! Thanks for the video.
Cant wait to see you giving it full beans....im still running my Punto GT in but that feels so punchy even going to just 4500rpm.... Takes a lot of self restraint running an engine in and not easy on a turbo.
Subaru's are notorious for lifter noise. They are prone to sticking, it's an oil to the lifter thing. You learn to ignore it eventually. Usually goes away when they warm up, only needs attention if it gets really bad. (Reference: I've owned 7).
In Australia I have never seen a station wagon Subaru. My first car in 1973 was a wagon, followed by 2 more wagons. I think they are the coolest and great practically.
Not uncommon to have the blow-by 'tick'. One issue you will need to check on will be how square your connections are after cleaning the surfaces are, as this is connecting to 2 sides. If the width is not critical, or not effected,( I am not 100% up on Subarus) then shouldn't matter, but use old fashioned exhaust sealing paste even if you use a composite gasket and that should take care of the leaks. After revving, the ticking is likely to have stopped due to thermal expansion.
Hydrolic lifters sound's like issue. Put up so.e miles. Let her carbon up to seal her up👍.run in on mineral oil, then use synthetic . Like back in the day with the old cossies. 👍
No hydraulics here! These are solid lifters, no shims! Just solid bucket. Had been using the mineral oil until about 650-700 miles now on performance synthetic
Ticking Noise: If a lifter goes flat, or won't hold pressure, you'll likely hear it begin to make noise. Often, a lifter tick will be most prevalent as soon as you start the engine, and may get quieter or disappear completely as the engine warms up or revs up.
You might find when you dump the running in oil and filter and put your desired oil in that the ticking noise goes , With your exzorst problem have you thort about a Stainless Steel manifold set up for both banks instead of the OE item which is quite exspensive ,
Lovely car, Isaac. I'd still look into a new set of plug leads, just to rule out intermittent spark jumping. Turbo engines don't tolerate ignition deficiencies.
Subaru use lots of Nissan parts. Window switches on mine had Nissan on the casing inside, and were exactly the same as Nissan Cedric taxis in Hong Kong 😂 classy …
Cranking at same speed all my Subarus did. It’s just the way they are. But yes … they all tick variously - spent hours with a listening rod and got nowhere. Vacuum and boost leaks were always a continuous and random headache … Lovely car.
@@keithfletcher6123 I'd bet you need to check and upgrade all your main grounds on the engine and its harnesses......I put a DEKA ETX16L agm battery under my passengers seat and ran a #4 cable the NEG to the aft, inboard seat rail attach bolt and ran a #4 from the POS to the engine compartment fuse box main POS terminal and my(USDM) '99 RS and 2002 WRX and '06 WRX(these are just my 'modern' Subarus) all spun twice as fast as what I heard in the vid.......Subarus suffer from horrible grounding and many electrical gremlins can be cured by just cleaning all the grounds and replacing the battery cables every couple years. The main ground that gets forgot is the one that goes from the pitch stop mount on the firewall to the top of the transmission.....I have cured MANY Subaru electrical gremlins by JUST replacing/repairing that ONE grounding cable when they get forgot when pulling the trans and get broken and never repaired. Im 62yo and have been playing with Subarus since the 'BRAT'/"BRUMBY' were new......nothing too new, though....they went to crap in 2008, mostly and were all done by 2013. anyway.....id go find an old Evo to play with....or do a 4G63 swap into something small and light....they last a LOT longer than any of these 'EJ's' and whatever they are calling these new lumps, now.
As thin as those manifold flanges are I would be tempted to have them welded to thicken them up or welding a flange shaped plate to them and then mill them flat.
The guys on Mighty Car Mods did a “fully built” motor with suby experts and then had a ticking noise and had to so something with one of the valves/clearance (can’t remember) … turned out to be a straightforward fix but itme consuming. Could be similar or at least draw heart from others having challenges. Check them out
You job makes you " super critical". Run the Subaru snd give it a chance to " heal". Keep away from a power wash, it doesnt do the lacquer finish any good.
I can't understand why anyone would want to pour more and more money into what's an old nondescript ex sales rep car. It's highly unlikely that an "irregular ticking type noise" and "intermittent rough running" would be caused by a small exhaust manifold leak, it simply does not add up. Your problem lies elsewhere. 😢