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Very informative video! Last speaker I repaired was a 15" woofer from a 1978 home speaker cabinet. Boy has technology come a long way in the past 42 years. It was a new in box (believe it or not) pair of EQ15 cabinets from American Acoustics Labs which later became MTX. Sounds pretty good running at 70 watts per cabinet which is just a tad above what they were rated at.
OK so I have a couple questions for you I have an old MTX thunder 8015 inch subwoofer and I would like to rebuild the entire speaker but I don’t know where to start can you help thanks
So a coil with a 76.2mm id will actually create more bl than a coil with a 76.66mm id? The one I'm working on originally had a 76.2mm id aluminum coil. If I used a 76.66mm id copper coil then what would that change? Will be for a musical sub also.
Part of the challenge is simply finding parts to begin with, if you're planning on rebuilding any driver that's "middle of the road". For example, I've been searching around for weeks for a basic 8 ohm 2" coil with 22-25mm winding height that's NOT designed for SPL use (e.g. rated for 100 W, not 500+W), and it seems that's as common as unicorns. Sure I could go with a 2" coil with thicker wire, but that means that the # of turns / cm goes down, and with it the "L" part in BL, which in turn leads to higher Qes and Qts. On linear vs. progressive spiders, FWIW, the latter are usually recommended for drivers destined for vented designs, to prevent "oil-canning".
You're right, some can be a major challenge, not even for what's most desirable but for what works to begin with. Actually, the "oil canning" can happen from progressive spiders, maybe even more common if it's designed poorly like Skar subs.
Well, I was going to try and turn my 2 skar TXL 18s (6 spke basket and 8" spiders)into 12s with maybe ti basket with 10" spiders. I duno, looks like alot of i hope I get it all right to make it work correctly ha
Another awesome video!! Thanx. Im rebuilding my Sundown zv2's again and trying to squeeze more out of them. Thinking of going with T.I. basket or maybe i can get 2 Sundown baskets with triple layer spiders and spl cones. Your thoughts? Also.....do you have any random motors or sub building parts youd like to part ways with? 👍 Keep the videos coming!!
Ti and Sundown baskets aren't going to benefit you at all with a motor that is so short. SPL cones don't fit either of those baskets well either. I do have a neo motor I thought I had on the website but I don't, definitely up for selling that. I've got some random baskets and such too.
@@EMFAudio Thanx for the knowledge! I was curious about the baskets because zv2's have a definitive xmax limit. I love these subs.....ill just rebuild with new and better soft parts and coil. Thanx again. Ill email you about those parts for sure. 🔈👍
I wanna build a sub but don’t know wich way to go or I can’t even find good rebuild kits lol. I need help bad lol. This. My first build and wanna get the best spl I can. I have two 12oinch harmony audio spl 3000 watt subs. I tore the roll on one of em and wanna rebuild with either sundown or skar parts. From wat Ive seen and heard the basket the motor everything is the same has skar zvx subs. But looks like a mojo cone. I have all the specs and everything if u could help me choose the parts I’ll get em and pay u for a design. I want the most watts I can get but don’t know if that’s determined by motor or coil or both ? I’ve been studying for months and really haven’t came across that answer yet. So please any help or advice would be appreciated and also awarded if I can get the goods lol
Is there any unique variation between coil sizes and motors like, say, in shoes and clothes? Basically, is it common for one 3 inch coil to be a slightly different diameter than another 3 inch coil? Or is it relatively standardized?
@@EMFAudio fantastic. I have an old Toxic Audio 12 I want to find some soft parts for as a first attempt at reckoning myself. Good to know I'm gonna have to be REAL specific lol.
So now that you've covered some of the basics, can you help me understand the differences, materials, advantages and disadvantages, of something like your baller sub versus something like a Kicker L7 Q or a JL w7 or zv5? I'm just trying to understand why some drivers are so much more expensive and yet it looks like something like a baller can handle more power, but perhaps the more expensive speakers have some other advantages (e.g. better for SQ). Also, I'm curious if you can show physically the difference between dual voice coil and single and discuss differences. Any information you can provide would be helpful. Thanks for the great and informative content!
@@EMFAudio Great, so that's another Tech Stuff Tuesday video idea submitted :) Whenever you get around to it! I appreciate all the info so far, and I can't wait for you to tell me why I paid too much money for my dual L7 Q 12s
There is more to it than just the number of layers. As a vast generalization, 8 layer may offer more BL but 4 layer has less mass so the BL isn't needed for the same result. Inductance is a factor as well.
Great video EMF! If you could give me your opinion/input on an experiment i did, and shed some light on my results, that would be awesome. But, I recently rebuilt an old sub to have the experience of doing things that would yield the" worst" results on paper , instead of just relying on others data; I imagine you've done the same to get concrete hands on data. Moreover, i built this sub with as light of a moving mass as i could find with a linear spider and light cone assembly, but I used a copper coil. I noticed I could get the sub to have better low end in a lot smaller and lower tuned enclosure than original parts; and it still got louder spl numbers than original parts on same power, but it needed a lot bigger burp box. i know theres a ton of variables that could have caused this. Nevertheless, I'm interested to see if you have ever used this kind of combination before, and what were your results?
Did it come with an aluminum coil originally? It sounds like you got more BL so Qts was lower. The mass of the coil could be more than you cut from using other lighter parts, so a lower Fs.
EMF Audio it was BAESIV and had an extremely tight gap, I’m surprised it was spotless when I replaced it. even with the added weight of the copper coil, it was still lighter overall too. I’m guessing the original cone was so heavy to begin with, and a thick linear spider-pack sandwiched at the triple joint, with massive amounts of ca glue, and then the original dust cap was even twice as heavy than what I replaced it with. perhaps the moving mass was just too heavy and motor force wasn’t there to push sub properly?.. I dunno 🤷🏻♂️ either way it’s louder now, gets lower, and cools way better, night and day difference. Was expecting an epic fail and it did the opposite.... weird
So I'm confused on one thing. Let's say I have a sub that has a 1000w rms, and I want to push more power out of it like 1500w, what gets changed in the rebuild process to achieve the extra power?
Depending on the situation, that may or may not be possible (ignoring the fact that subs don't put out power). Think of it like having a glass 3/4 full of water. Can you add 25% more water? Sure. But what about if you start with a full glass of water? Can you add any more water? No, it's at it's capacity limitations. From a thermal handling standpoint, using a higher temperature coil or changing coil spacing dimensions can change power handling. From a mechanical standpoint a suspension change can change power handling. There is not a "this makes it handle this much more power" anything.
HEY EMF I GOT SOME sound stream baskets I want to recones them but they don't have recones kits avalible and I don't want to scrap the baskets the subs were rated for 900 wats RMS ???? Double stack moter
And i have worse case scenario 15" sub. A 3rd gen mofo with 340 oz motor n 4 inch coil. I want to rebuild it better. For sq and some heavy dj russticals bass. I have modded her already slightly and am using only 1 of the coils. It says dual 1 on pdf i downloaded but seems dual 2. I used ohm meter. 2ohm. So any way i have 2 spiders and a plastic spider ring i dont like. Need better leads i soldered direct to coil to stop tensil from snapping. Can i order parts seperate to rebuild. Im no pro. I can do it im sure
I was thinking Fi, but it does have that Hutchinson look too. It was a custom built sub, so I'm leaning towards Fi. Maybe he'll let us know. I figure he didn't say because he doesn't want to appear to be bashing the manufacturer.
Why does any manufacturer of there entry level sub (true 750wrms and up) use sub 3" voice coils? For me and alot that 3" coil is a selling point regardless if a 2.5"/2.75" is built to be sufficient like your lowballer,sundown V1 SA ECT. Yes it's a all in my head thing but I can't help it and I know it's not just me it's alot of people. I would think even in a variety of lower power level like 750-1500 models all having 3" would be more cost effective than 2.5"/2.75"? I dont know maby not... Like deaf bonce doesn't step up to 3" till there $380/2k wrms there $280/1500w has 2.75 and there $180/1k has 2.5" that's enough to make me keep looking. Same as magnet slugs, having 3 1" narrower slugs seems more desirable to me than 2 1" wider slugs regardless if they have the same mass. All what I'm saying is marketing points not performance aspects. It's not all about performance for companys it's sales too I'd think anyway. I'm not arguing or criticizing I'm wondering.
Many points are purely marketing, but there are some considerations with coil size. Example, a sub with low Xmax like PA drivers must use a larger diameter coil to get the power handling because the coil is short. Some intentionally rate low, some rate accurately, and some rate ambitiously. The magnet mass isn't what makes the motor strength like you're thinking. The actual magnet size, in every dimension, may be more cost effective than another. You may need 3 to get motor depth as needed which isn't actually stronger than 2 because the motor is too narrow. The resulting products could be well engineered or well marketed, sometimes it's both.
Im trying to figure out why the owner would buy a super gauss set up for spl its caped on xmax and isnt designed for it. While i like your vids. I see you go out of your way to say as much negitive as possible. Guess you like drama. SMFH
SPL isn't about Xmax, as a matter of fact, the loudest setups have half as much Xmax capabilities as many other options. It's worth noting the manufacturer very specifically deemed this original build for SPL and call it the strongest motor they've ever made by far. If you think it's not for SPL, blame them for saying it is, not the person who bought them based on them saying that. Pointing out the problems of something and what's being done to make it better isn't going out of my way to say as much negative things as possible. That's educating in detail so there is explanation and understanding. There are other problems with this I didn't mention because they aren't directly related to performance nor something I could change.
Spl is the compression and vacuum of air at a various fz the amplitude and shear force can be a combination of a few things like loading but xmax is involved and by design a super gauss set up isnt best set up im not geting into he said she said bull shit all im saying is what you said could have been said in a better way. Thats my point. Btw thats not the strongest motor they have built there are 3 more powerful gauss rated motors above that just a fyi
@@sdkenclosures2892 I'm literally telling you what they told him, if you have a problem with it, take it up with them. If Xmax was everything, the Ermagerd v2 18" would be the loudest sub on the planet, which it is not. There is no vacuum in SPL.
@@sdkenclosures2892 You didn't see anything I posted both ways because I don't edit posts unless it contains a typo. Your post on the other hand, says (edited) next to it, indicating it was edited. Mine does not. Start your drama fest somewhere else.
