Tesla Motor Plumbing Modifications

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In this episode, I add emergency drains and extra vents to reduce the risk of leaks, amongst others. Learn and do better :-)
Updates
1) Maybe bonding the brass nipples (does not have a tapered thread) is beter with epoxy because it's mechanically stronger. Thanks to @Al Savage.
2) Some LDU revisions do not even come with a hole behind the speed sensor!
Timestamps
0:00 intro
0:13 chamber overview
1:16 pressure management analysis in 3D CAD
4:45 mounting a new breather for the inverter chamber
5:07 mounting a new breather for the rotor chamber
5:57 mounting a new breather for the reluctor wheel chamber
6:37 adding emergency drain 1
11:22 adding emergency drain 2
13:42 replacing both axle seals
See also
sites.google.com/view/teslald...
www.myrav4ev.com
Disclaimer
This video is for entertainment purposes only. All work you do on your car is at your own risk.
Keywords
Toyota RAV4 2012 2013 2014 Mercedes B-class Electric Drive Tesla Model S large drive unit LDU motor BEV glycol coolant fluid Zerex G48 automatic transmission fluid ATF Dexron VI leak battery aegis ring bearing bearings grinding noise CAD model PTFE teflon rotary lip seal failure drain housing rotor shaft repair common mode grounding runout eccentricity fluting wear axial radial play speed sensor check rebuild assemble disassemble vent reluctor ring expensive cheap repair DIY out of warranty

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Опубликовано:

16 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 35

@fatmanbhkbjorn 24 дня назад

Damn! You must be a real engineer! This seems to be really thought through. Thank you! ❤

@mikolajkostuch3741 6 месяцев назад

Tesla should hire this guy

@fatmanbhkbjorn 24 дня назад

That’s what I was thinking! 😆

@Shkvarka Год назад

Nice work! Stay away from 2in1 drill bits... Instead buy spiral thread cutters! I always use them for expensive parts, it never fails, even without cutting fluid. Subscribed:) best regards from Ukraine!! Many thanks for supporting our country!

@mikolajkostuch3741 6 месяцев назад

Nice work, you improved the factory.

@diyEVguy 6 месяцев назад

Haha thanks!

@Scottietheyoung 10 месяцев назад

This is absolutely amazing work, thanks for sharing

@diyEVguy 10 месяцев назад

You're welcome!

@randycarter2001 10 дней назад

I personally wouldn't use epoxy. I'd use RTV as an adhesive. It's water proof and can easily be removed with no damage when needed. Only real drawback is it takes a long time to cure.

@diyEVguy 10 дней назад

Interesting, thanks! I can see your point in context of ageing of the epoxy, higher brittleness, differences in thermal expansion etc.

@randr10 3 месяца назад

When threading aluminum there's a product called tap magic that is a light cutting oil that's good for aluminum. The stuff you used is designed for cutting steel. A good cheap option though is straight WD-40. I've tapped a lot of holes in aluminum with it and I get good results. A good sharp high quality tap is key. Your recommendation to tap by hand is a good one, and I would not use that combo drill/tap for this. It's very easy to cause damage during power tapping and even skilled machinists are reluctant to do it on anything critical or expensive. These combination drill/tap tools are not good for material that's of any thickness too. A lot of chip material is created from the drill point and then you stack more chips on top of that cutting the thread and the likelihood of something getting caught up in the cutting edge of the tap as it turns increases exponentially. You're almost guaranteed to get galled threads with one on a thick casting like this.

@diyEVguy 3 месяца назад

Thanks for the clarification!

@peteroffpist1621 Год назад

very impressive, thanks for sharing.

@nuss7250 Год назад

Like! Thank you!!

@fatmanbhkbjorn 17 дней назад

If I wanted to add a drain at the inverter side, without dropping the engine, do you think it would be feasible? Guessing I should pull the firemans loop first, completely powering off the car, just to be on the safe side, right?

@eastmanresearch3143 Год назад

It was mentioned by AJ from QCCharge that 5 drains are added to the LDU's on the teslamotorclub forum. This was the first I heard this. It seems like your setup is robust but I wonder where 3 more would be added?

@eddiemillyard3118 5 месяцев назад

do you have a parts list for seals and orings for this drive unit?

@diyEVguy 21 день назад

Partially here: sites.google.com/view/teslaldu/parts

@diyEVguy 21 день назад

FERSA seels a kit too I believe

@eastmanresearch3143 Год назад

I'd love to see some more detail on the emergency drains. Be careful with the blue locktite, I have see it destroy certain plastics very quickly.

@diyEVguy Год назад

www.ebay.com/itm/185147142629

@alsavage1 Год назад

@@diyEVguy The hose barb: I'm not sure what the intended sealing surface is supposed to be. The threads appear to be parallel, so ineffective for sealing, and the hex base does not appear to have any significant gasket area (and you're not installing them with that surface mating to the parent anyway). All in all, it doesn't seem a robust way to divert fluids under pressure. Perfectly adequate for your use -- non-pressurized -- but kind of an odd item. Mechanically, you're depending upon the Loc-Tite, which is my only concern with this install. --- You've really thought through a lot of things that I would likely miss, these vids are great!

@diyEVguy Год назад

@@alsavage1 Thanks again for the comment! Yes the barb ridges are parallel to each other. The silicone hose slides over it very snug so it is difficult to remove it. The silicone is so flexible that that provides a seal. I assume zero pressure because both the reluctor wheel chamber as well as the inverter chamber are vented to the ambient air. Yeah the loctite may not be the best choice. A "thread sealant" may be much better, but at the cost of the mechanical properties. Maybe a flexible epoxy would be better.

@alsavage1 Год назад

@@diyEVguy Ah, I was referring to the threads, not the hose end. Agreed: epoxy, as the threads being parallel, this is like a bolt and nut. If the fitting is not fastened so that the threads are in tension, only the Loc-Tite is retaining the fitting to the case, which does not seem optimum. --- I see I've been hyphenating "Loc-Tite" when Wikipedia doesn't reference that: correct is "Loctite". I have been doing it wrong for decades! I'll learn and do better ;)

@diyEVguy Год назад

@@alsavage1 Yes the threads are not tapered. I added a description update. Thanks again!

@uliheckmann2038 Год назад

Amazing pioneering work! Simple question- what do You expect, how long is the lifetime extended with this solution? The main problem is still the boiling point water solution at contact area of the rubber seal and the shafts, right?

@diyEVguy Год назад

Thanks! Yeah its is a 50/50 mix of water and glycol, boils at roughly 107°C (when at atmospheric pressure). Actual pressure and boiling temperature are likely higher due to the overpressure. My very coarse thermal calculations suggest that the seal lip (PTFE, not rubber) contact area is also in that temperature ballpark. So the coolant mayyy boil and bubble out towards the dry side, but I have not observed that in my own LDU yet bc is's bone dry after the first 2000mi. For longevity statistics (mind you: there may be many installation errors, so it may not be representative of professional interventions), see our website here: sites.google.com/view/teslaldu/longevity

@moestrei 5 месяцев назад

Question: Looking at the coolant reservoir the cap is of the pressurized design meaning a pressure (to raise the boiling point of the coolant) is building up first before excess pressure is released. I wonder if that is really necessary in the EV application and if it would help the seal if the cap would be modified to vent without building up pressure.

@diyEVguy 5 месяцев назад

Good question... Not sure about the answer...

@moestrei 5 месяцев назад

@@diyEVguy I guess if the temps in the coolant loop for the motor stay well below boiling point (must be above 100°C for the G48) it could assist the seal to not pressurize. I loose 5mm level of coolant every 1000km and my 3 seals have arrived. So I will do it shortly.

@tannerbean3801 8 месяцев назад

Does anyone happen to have OEM or alternative part numbers for the circlips and spring washers sandwiched between the shaft seal and the (front/outer) bearing? My motor had one fragmented, as well as the clip.

@diyEVguy 8 месяцев назад

No sorry...but you should be able to get them from salvage LDUs...

@tannerbean3801 8 месяцев назад

@@diyEVguy I might need to look around hardware stores or McMaster. They've got to be $5-$10 in hardware...