The Best Rust Infinite Power Circuit 

thank you!!

pin this comment so more people see it maybe, great video earnt a sub and a like

@@yutomi8739 good idea thx :) I'm working on a new video now showing the best way to do this since the November Update

I can give another Circuit/Build List for a circuit with 5 large batteries. Some people get confused how to use Root Combiners on that scale.

People are more concerned about how to provide 100 energy to access the load, around the clock! And while maintaining maximum battery power. There are days when there is no wind and the battery manages to discharge. How to achieve 100 loads and a good battery charge with a minimum of energy sources?

thx :) will do

Very cool, I knew I couldn't be the only one to think of it but I looked EVERYWHERE and couldn't find this. I'm just glad its out there now and people can find it :).

and now we don't need to worry about it anymore

glad you liked it :)

wow thats cool, thx for the comment

:), well... its hard to find a creative where you don't hear the constant boom boom boom of people rocketing. So I went way out in the water for a quiet background :).

Done check it out :)

Just add an addtional electrical branch on the circuit that branches 26 to a switch (assuming you want a switch, just 25 power if you dont) and then run it to the samsite. Same for turrets, electrical branch - branch 11 to a switch and then to the turret. and the electrical branch main output continues the circuit to the next item.

Thx for watching and yet so very sorry ;(. This circuit was outdated with the November patch and is no longer necessary. Yes it still works but there is a much simpler way now. I'm working on an updated video to this one which I hope to publish in the next few days so stay tuned :)

thx glad you like it :)

Thx, Glad you liked it :), here is my latest video. This shows how to setup and use the new small generator as well as how to setup the electronics for the new turrets, this system can run 3 turrets but of course if you need more you can simply make more of these and run them in parallel. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ewcc2Flu_U0.html

Thx, and I'll see what I can do, I'll wait till the next update though because they are changing so much.

Wow such a late reply :) Here is the circuit you need. i.imgur.com/P2PDQLx.gif You don't have to make it this big, each section gains you an additional 4 hours or so. I stopped playing rust a while back when they started making major changes every week or so it seemed. Anyway if you still play or others see this here is an 18 hour setup. This is impractical with small batteries due tot he voltage drop as you add more sections which is why each additional section requires more batteries than the one before it. Still, it works very well with large batteries.

glad to help :)

glad you liked it :)

Thx for watching, sorry this circuit is obsolete as of the November update of last year. I leave it up for reference because it can be used for other things. As for backup batteries now you need only go Source - Battery - Load. Or in your case. Source (generators) to Large Battery to splitters to turrets. Here is an example with 9 Turrets for each large battery: i.imgur.com/OmmXSQS.gif If you need more than 9 turrets just duplicate the entire setup. Sadly though batteries were greatly improved in recent updates they still dont work correctly when placed in parallel circuits which is what you would need to simply add more batteries without duplicating the whole setup. Hope this helps.

You shouldn't have any problem making this work with one door and one HBHF Sensor. Adding more solar panels would help if your battery isn't getting fully charged during the day time but you wouldn't need to change the branch power at all. More panels would charge the battery faster though. If for some reason you don't have enough power even when running on the battery then something has been setup wrong. It should have plenty of voltage for that setup. I'll do some example trap base designs soon. Maybe that will help. You will be able to see the circuitry applied to various sensor and door configurations.

99, and thx for watching

Thx glad you liked it

Thx for watching :) First did you notice that this circuit is now obsolete? At least for this purpose, there are other applications which is why I left the video up. Second you said "built a string" which would be a series circuit where the output from one battery goes to the input of the next battery. Then you described a parallel circuit where all the inputs are tied together and all the outputs are tied together. So here is the problem with each. In series you get diminishing returns of 20% per battery of usable output. So for the first battery you could input 13 volts and use 10 volts, the max for a small battery anyway. If you added a second battery in series you would be charging the second battery from the first at a rate of 10v so you could only use 8 volts from the second (and maintain charge). This continues on until after just a few batteries you can't even get a single volt out of the last battery without draining it to failure regardless of incoming power to the first battery in the string. Second you have the parallel batteries. So here is the problem. While the November and December updates from 2019 did help a LOT with batteries mimicking real world batteries they didn't quite get this right. In parallel they charge just fine. So for example two parallel batteries with at least 25 volts charging them could each output 10 volts (their max for small batteries) without losing charge. The down side is when you root combine their outputs together. For some reason the rust gods decided that each battery in parallel should output the minimum amount needed for the load (load is power used by the rest of the circuit). As such if you had for example two small batteries set up like this to power a single auto turret both batteries would output 10 volts even though they would only need to output 5 volts each since they are being root combined. As such the batteries drain 2 x as fast as they need to and so while you do have a second battery you dont increase the time you can use them. So one small battery could provide backup power for a single auto turret for 15 mins if the battery is fully charged. Meanwhile two batteries in parallel would still only provide 15 mins of backup power. Its stupid, hard to believe with such a major overhaul to batteries they missed this, and this is NOT how batteries would work in real life but this is how it is in rust. I actually have a solution to this and may do another video soon to demonstrate.

Thx for watching, you are correct it can be removed. At 6:50 I explained that this branch was only in these circuits in order to demonstrate how the circuits operated given different power inputs. It was simply a way to regulate the incoming power from the solar panels. That said none of this matters now. This circuit is obsolete due to recent changes in game mechanics involving batteries. I'm working on an updated video showing how to do this since the update and hope to have the video out in the next few days.

This circuit was originally designed to create a backup battery to to run your lights though night time or in the case of a raid if your generators were destroyed to give you continuous power at least until the batteries ran out. I haven't played rust in a while but unless it has changed the problem with scaling it up is that you get diminishing returns for each additional battery bank you set up due to voltage losses the farther you extend the circuit. I designed this circuit a while back and again unless game mechanics have changed since last I played it should still be valid to create up to an 18 hour backup battery system. You could continue to expand it infinitely but I stopped at 18 hours because that seems to be sufficient for any daily player. i.imgur.com/P2PDQLx.gif Now if I understand you right you want your lights inside to only come on at night? This is easily accomplished by placing an XOR Switch between your power line and the light or lights. Attach your power in to one of the power inputs on the XOR Switch and the Output to the light or lights. Now add a single solar panel separate from whatever other power producers you have and attach it to the other input on the XOR Switch. The XOR Switch only allows power to pass if only one input is receiving power and so since your main power line will always have power then whenever the sun is up and that separate solar panel is also sending power to the XOR Switch it wont allow power to pass through to the light. When the sun is down and no power is coming from that solar panel then the only power to the XOR Switch will be from the main power line and so it will allow power to pass through to the light. So... the lights will only come on at night. If your main power production is already solar panels then you could simply branch one of those and send the default 2 volts from the branch to the second input of your XOR Switch. I may be over explaining this so let me just give you a simple example. i.imgur.com/yfkM2Gd.gif In the first circuit the light is on obviously. In the second the light is off because there is power from the solar panel. If the sun were down there would be no power from the solar panel and the light would come on.

From what I get for. This video u set the branch to the amount of sun coming it so the solar and battery are the same power out???

Not exactly but its very easy. All you would have to do is connect your second battery to the first in a "parallel" circuit. That means run cables from positive of the first battery to positive of the second battery, and the same with the negatives. That said I frequently build all electronics possible inside the honeycomb of my base. I have only very rarely had raiders waste the explosives to blow into what is obviously just honeycomb. Another nice trick is to run random wires back and forth around your base so an invader can't just follow the wires to find your electronics.

@@K162KingPin appreciate the feedback, Iill look into tying my electric into my honeycomb . im an awkward solo player so building huge clan tower is mostly impossible for me so i do smaller all metal bases to try and detour people.

you can set a timer

Thx, that really does encourage me to make more :)

@@K162KingPin Do you know how I would adapt the large battery version of this to support more input? I've got 2 wind turbines and will be adding a third, so combined power output ranges but is in the ball park of 150-200+. Do I just build the same thing 2 or 3 times and have 2-3 separate lines?

@@loamymtb sry I missed this question, better late than never I hope :). So I wouldn't set up a second one unless you have at least 300 power on average. 150 volts charging a single battery and running your main line circuit only leaves about 50v to charge the batter which is about 1/2 the rate it could charge. 200 would be more ideal but if you have 300 coming in then you could split that and have two circuits working in parallel. So simply put you would use root combiners to add up all your incoming power from your various sources. Then route that into the input of a splitter. Now build another of these circuits beside the other one or wherever and run one output from the splitter to the input of each circuit. Now just manage your power outputs from them to keep it under 98 volts for each. Sadly there is no way to recombine the output from the batteries or the orswitches. Technically you could root combine your batteries but they would be in a constant state of draining then and would never charge. Usually when I do a big clan base I have 3 of these circuits powering the base. I try to make sure I have a minimum of 450 power from my various source, then split it 3 ways and make three infinite power circuits. I built the circuits into the honeycomb of my base and spread them at away from each other so no raider could accidentally take them all out at once. Then I spread the power from each around the base and the defenses. For example if I had 3 auto turrets, I would have each one powered by a different battery so that even if I lost one the other two would still be up and running. Or usually its more like 21 turrets and each batter is power 7 of them with a little power left over to do automatic doors or whatever.

The small battery version no, the large battery version yes. You could power 8 autoturrets with the large one battery setup, and of coarse you could do more and more with multiple setups running in parallel. i.imgur.com/PDHze8o.gif

Game mechanics for batteries changed drastically in Novembers patch of 2019 so its pretty simple now. However for it to work properly you need to jump straight from 1 larger battery up to 3. i.imgur.com/zlPgTqx.gif This circuit would give you 8 hours of backup power at the maximum output of the large battery. Obviously replace the creative generators with whatever power sources you have but be sure you have at lest 251 volts input to the first splitter for it to function properly. Thx for watching :)

thax for you video is very helpful

Thx for watching, simply put no it wont. I would prevent power to the circuit so long as there was any daylight for solar or wind for turbines. It would only kick into battery power if the sun was completely down, not low, or if your win or solar were completely destroyed. That said this circuit is obsolete due to recent game mechanics changes. I'm working on an updated video.

yw, glad you liked it :)

Thx :)

Thx for watching. Sadly this circuit was made obsolete with recent updates to the game. Furthermore this was made before auto turrets even required electricity. The turret requires a minimum of 10 volts. This circuit only with a small battery only outputs 8 volts. If you are using a large battery it should work fine but thats beside the point because you don't need to do this at all anymore. The whole purpose of this was to compensate for the fact that a battery couldn't be used and charged at the same time like real batteries. Now they can. So simply set up your solar panel, run a wire to the input of a battery, then run the output of the battery to the input of an auto turret and you're done. If you are using a medium or large battery you can run the output of the battery to a splitter or electric branch to divide the power up and run multiple turrets or other electronics. I am working on an updated video explaining the changes in the batteries and all the wonderful things we can do with them now but until then I think this will solve your immediate problem. i.imgur.com/cr516Bl.gif Thx again for watching :)

​@@K162KingPin uhhh i guess. im still wrapping my head around these sorry. So if i put my solar panels to my small battery and charge it directly and connect it to my sentry gun it will input enough to charge the battery and power up the sentry? my concern is when the sun goes down D:

No, the small battery circuit here only supplies 8 volts to the mainline, its good enough for a sensor and a door controller or two but the turrets require a minimum of 10 volts to power on. Either use the "large rechargeable battery" version of this circuit or else the small battery with a "small generator" as I demonstrate in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ewcc2Flu_U0.html& lc=z22tzzdoksmyzjwhh04t1aokgil24lpzeoctvwlh0mm2bk0h00410

@@K162KingPin what if he uses 2 solar panels and 2 small batteries with root combiners?

@@therealKrak you can't root combine a battery and charge it. The battery sees the root combiner as a connected item and so is set to discharge mode. In this mode it can't be charged. You would have to constantly connect and disconnect the wires manually, the whole point here is to do it automatically. The battery does not see the Blocker as a connected item if there is power to the block port. This is why this whole thing works.

Hmm I'm not sure what you mean, so hopefully I can answer this for you. There are 3 electrics branches, I call them 1, 2, and 3. the first one isn't even part of the circuit. It is only there to demonstrate the circuits performance with various power inputs. Number 2 and 3 are part of the circuit. Number 2 should be set to 9 volts if using a small battery, and 99 volts if using a large battery. Number 3 should always be left at 2 volts regardless of which battery you are using. If this didn't answer your question feel free to follow up. Thx

K162KingPin, using 10 panels, 5 west 5 east(100 morning and 100 evening), only peak hours wil charge a large batt right. Because if you branch 99, there wont be no power left to charge a large batt.(before and after peaks) you have a solution for this?

@@-CataclysmiC- yea, build more pannels :). Or put up a wind turbine or two. If that isn't an option consider if you really need 98 volts output. If you are only running a couple auto turrets for example then you only really need 24 volts max depending how you split the power and if you need outputs. So once you have determined hopefully that you dont really need 98 volts output then reset the first electric branch from 98 to say 50. That will double the power going to charge the batteries. Hopefully this can hold you over until you can get more power generation going. Keep in mind that when its on battery power you will still have the full 98 volts from the battery but dont rely on that building your circuit unless the extra is exclusively going to something that you only want on at night. Like lights.

Sadly there is not. The root combiner is the only way to add voltage like that and they will not accept inputs from devices other than power producers. So you could combine the output of two batteries by routing their output into a root combiner but this would have to be done manually. The key to this setup which allows you to charge the battery then switch automatically to discharge the battery is based on the fact that the blocker can effectively disconnect the battery from the circuit. If you were to eliminate the blocker then the battery would be constantly discharging and couldn't be recharged. If you try to attach the root combiner after the blocker the root combiner doesn't recognize the power input. Hopefully this will be changed in the future to mirror real world electronics, but at that point you should also be able to charge a battery while using it as well. THAT SAID... nothing in rust requires 200 power to operate. So the way around this is to make this circuit twice. Split your power at your source and route it to each of the two infinite power circuits and run them in parallel, or side by side. Then from each of them rout power out to your various devices and just make sure you don't put more than 100 volts of burden on each one. This is actually how I frequently set up my larger bases. I set up one of these circuits and when I have enough electronics than I need more than 100 volts I set up a second one and so on.

K162KingPin yeah I was trying all lot of options on rustician.io.. thanks a lot for ur vidz!! Keep up the good work!

@@robbyvanderveen5850 thx :)

Small batteries have 2 mins of charge when initially place. If you have insufficient power generation for the circuit then it switches to battery power and drains until it reaches 4s or so. No idea why it never reaches 0 but thats basically just indicating that the battery is empty. It may also be possible that you have sufficient power generation but an error was made in the setup of the circuit. I recommend double checking everything starting with your power generation.

The middle electric branch is branching off the 9 volts to the OrSwitch. Any additional power feed into that branch is feed into the battery to charge it. So if you have a single solar panel in direct sun light it will produce 20 volts. You lose 1 volt powering the branch leaving 19 volts. 9 Volts goes to the OrSwitch while the leftover 10 volts goes towards charging the battery. Does that answer your question?

@@K162KingPin Yup... Many people uses the splitter but they forget that the splitter splits the power over 3 outputs and you can not combine them anymore because the combiner only is accepted after a source, while the branch has 1 power out minus the value of the branch you have set it to and minues 1 volts to let the branch operate.

@@ProgNoizesB The splitter splits power only 2 ways if you only use 2 of the outputs as well, limited usefulness but good to know. Still that is the problem with what people have been using for the last couple years, because the power is split evenly you can create a cuttoff point, so you end up with a solar panel in low light and its not putting out enough to provide the 8 volts but at the same time it is putting out enough to prevent the battery from doing it. Also the Splitter cost more than the electric branch so when you only need two outputs anyway you might as well go with the cheaper option.

@@K162KingPin but if I have just 5 volts I loose it without any profit ? I can just connect solar panel to battery with more advantages? why not? I don't understand why this circuit should be used at all?

do you have 20 v coming off the solar panel? if so did you set the first electric branch to 9v?

@@K162KingPin I figured it out. It charges slowly but it worked. Btw, do you know a way to make 2 things happen when a turret "has a target" Like if I wanted a light and alarm to power on if the sentry has a target

@@rbxploits1735 yes, basically you have a 1v output when it has a target. You need to amplify that 1 volt. To do this you would take that 1 volt and put it to the input of an ANDSwitch. The other input should be whatever amount of power you are going to need for the output. So say you have 10 volt on input 1 of the ANDSwitch and the 1 volt from your HAS Target output on the other. Whenever you have a target then the ANDSwitch is now receiving two inputs and so allows the 10 volts to pass through. It does have a 1 volt drop like most components but in this case its getting that 1 volt from the output of the turret so you don't need to compensate for it with your 10 volt input. If you want to see this amplifier watch my video on automatic doors. I use the same amplifier there but instead of an auto turret I'm amplifying the output from an HBHF sensor. Still the amplifier is the same. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zrD5fEKVZBE.html

Yes, you can do this by placing an additional electric branch between the blocker and the orswitch. Then set its branch power to 71, then attach the output from the blocker to this electric branch and the branch power to the orswitch. This would effectively limit the output from the large battery to 70. Also if you want your mainline power to provide equal power to the circuit then also change the first electric branch from 99v to 71 as well. I am curious why you would want to limit your power though :)

@@K162KingPin Thank you for the fast reply. I have 1 wind mill that generates 40v to 120v. So on average it makes less than 100v. To stop the battery going flat i only use 70v in the base but when the battery kicks in the counter says the out put is 100v so i assume that the battery is draining %30 faster than needed?

@@rogermoore1628 yes you can't make the battery ouput slower but your solution is correct, you limit the power from the first electric branch effectively leaving more to charge the battery.

double check your branch power settings, thats the most likely cause, double check that the bottom light on the blocker is red while you have your main power on. If everything is actually setup correctly then your wind turbine isn't making enough power. You would need a minimum of about 150 volts to realistically charge the battery at a reasonable rate and maintain your main power. Ideally you would have about 200 v minimum. Wind turbines at low altitude don't make much power, so if you cant get them higher off the ground then make more of them.

Hard to tell you without seeing it. First holding your wire hover over your battery and see if it has any charge. If its less than 4s of charge its effectively empty. So your problem is that the battery hasn't had a chance to charge yet. This may be due to insufficient power input. In other words you may need more solar panels or wind generators or whatever you are using to make power. Second be sure that the "branch power" on the first electric branch is set to 9 volts if you are using a small battery, or 99 volts if you are using the large battery. Also double check the second electrical branch and be sure that it is set to 2 volts, this should be set to 2 regardless of the battery being used. I can't help more without more info but this will probably do it for you. Good Luck and thx for watching.

@@K162KingPin Thank you for such a quick reply, i will try the above stated, but i think you are correct when you say i need more solar panels. there must be a certain amount of solar panels that work with one wind turbine that gets power half the time that gets max recharge and power. if my power doesnt reach that 99 then things stop working. You need a considerably amount of solar panels and multiple windturbines if you are building wind turbines on a lower level of your base where they dont recieve much wind.

@@K162KingPin there is over 2 hours charge, but its still not working

@@K162KingPin i just swapped froma xor switch to an or switch, hope that helps

@@K162KingPin I looked up the difference between xor and or, i thought there was no difference, but there is.

Sure no problem change it to 99, if you want to see the explanation skip into the video at about 4:45 and watch from there, thats where I go over that part. thx for watching :)

TLDR: That was a lot of information to cover. Maybe I'll do a followup video on this at some point :). For the short term the point to take away is that solar panels are a bad way to power a large battery backup system, though you could use them to supplement it if you already have some when you get your hands on a Win Turbine or two (these can be purchased from outpost for scrap). And you can reduce the power to your circuit via reconfiguring the first electric branch reducing the branch power in order the balance the power needs of the base and the charge rate of the battery when you have insufficient power generation. ----------------- The full explaination: At 2:22 I said that the default branch power is 2 volts and we would need to adjust it on the first electrical branch. The default is always set to 2 volts for every electric branch and since we only have to adjust it on the first one then the second one stays at two, sry that wasn't more clear but you drew the correct conclusion. It would actually be nice if we could set this to 1 volt as we would have 1 more volt charging our batteries then but sadly it is not possible due to game mechanics. As for power input. Based on your comment it seems you are playing on a vanilla server or at least a server with a day and night cycle. I rarely play on such servers and tend to stick to modded servers which almost always have no night time or a very brief night time. So for me I need only point solar panels at the sun and call it a day, forever, lol... small joke. Anyway... I'm not at all sure how many solars you would need pointing in various directions to accomplish this but the important thing to understand is that your large battery will charge with as little as 1 volt or as much as 90 volts. You could supply it 1000 volts if you wanted but it wouldn't charge any faster than 90 volts could do it. So... if you need all 98 volts possible to this circuit then you would need a minimum of 102 volts just to supply your 98 from the main line and prevent the battery from discharging. You would need 104 volts in order to provide a single 1 volt to charge the large battery (which would take a VERY LONG TIME) with 1 volt about 18.5 days in rl. Before the question is asked the reason for the 2 volt jump between blocking the power from the battery and actually charging it is again because of the 2 volt default of the second electric branch. Finally for maximum effectiveness you would need to provide 193 Volts from your mainline power to both provide 98 volts to your circuit and 90 volts to charge the batter which would be charged in about 4hrs 45mins. The point is that you can operate this circuit as is with an input of between 104 -193 volts and continue charging the large battery. If you input is 101 volts or lower then it switches to battery power. Personally I very rarely try doing this setup with the large battery using solar panels, I especially wouldn't do this on vanilla using solar panels. This is a perfect situation for a Wind Turbine. With proper altitude the rarely produce less than your minimum power requirements, and often provide most of your maximum requirements. Furthermore they continue to operate at night time, they are relatively inexpensive compared to enough solar panels for equivalent power output, and best of all they produce more and more power the higher you get them while solar panels produce a max of 20 no matter what. On average including a vanilla day and night cycle it would take about 12 solar panels at least to do what a single Wind Turbine does. That said, there is another solution to low charge rates that some may not have considered. Lets say you only have 4 solar panels but you need more than 8 volts so you have gone to the large battery setup. 4 solar panels at best wont provide the 104 volt minimum so what can you do. The next question is how much power do you really need? Do you need all 98 volts you could get max for your circuit? What if you are only running 2 Auto Turrets. Depending on their configuration you only need 21 volts to power them on. If you also want output signals then at most you would need 23 volts. So lets go with the higher number. All you would need to do is reset the first electric branch from 98 volts to 24. Thats your 23 volts plus 1 extra for the orswitch ofc. Run the output from the orswitch to a splitter, and the outputs from the splitter to each of your turrets. Now with all 4 of your solar panels in direct sunlight you are producing 80 volts. Yet your circuit is now reconfigured so that only 24 volts insead of 98 is going to the base cuircuitry. This leaves you 53 volts to charge your large battery. Now this is only a little more than 1/2 the amount the battery needs for maximum charge rate so to simplify if you will gain 1 second of charge for ever 2 second of charging time. But thats ok because even in vanilla day time is 3 times longer than night time. So even considering for low light levels in the morning and evening you only need 2/3 of your day time to provide max power from the solar panels for this to keep up. So thx for watching, you made me think up some good points which I hope helps you and others in the long run.

ikr :)

@@K162KingPin honestly i wish there was a way to get this kind of setup into a cave base but the cables just dont reach the surface :\

Yes it does still work, but its unnecessary now. I'll be making an updated video in the next couple days. I just wanted to wait for the force wipe to make sure nothing else changed.

@@K162KingPin what makes it unnecessary?

thx for watching :)... but did you watch? check 4:20 there I show how to set it up with a large battery. Also check the description for links to both the small and large battery circuits. Hope this helps.

@@K162KingPin ya i see it already. thx for the video dude

This is completely unnecessary in real life as batteries don't work the same in the game. In real life a battery can be charged and discharged at the same time. No need to create a method to switch them back and forth like this.

@@K162KingPin r/woooosh

Thx for watching :), just to be sure you noticed this the circuit in this video is now obsolete. The November patch of last year finally fixed batteries so that they can charge and discharge at the same time. Now you need only go from power source to battery to load, no more need for automatically switching it back and forth between charge and discharge.

If you set it up right it doesn't stop providing power whether the wind dies down temporarily using wind turbines, or the sun goes down using solar panels. Obviously if your generators were destroyed your batteries would eventually lose power. That said... the circuit was named "infinite power" by many other people years before I came along an improved the design. Obviously its not the most accurate descriptions but its the name everyone already knows it by.

The small battery system can not support even 1 turret as it outputs 8 volts and a turret needs a minimum of 10. The large battery system can support 7 turrets at 11volts each so that you can use the output signals or 8 turrets at 10 volts which can not use the output signal.

Private server fam

First of all thank you for watching and for your input, I'm always on the lookout for new ideas and I certainly have not thought of everything. That said, have you tried what you are suggesting? It literally can't work. An AND Switch requires power from both inputs in order to pass power through. This circuit is designed to prevent power leaving the battery while sufficient power is being supplied from your main source. This is necessary because otherwise the battery would never charge. Then when the main power source fails it automatically switches over to battery power. The point is that while in this charging mode there would be no second input for the AND Switch and it wouldn't even allow the power from the main power source through to the circuit. As for the power flicker this only happens at the moment that the circuit switches to the backup battery. The reason seems to be that it takes a second for the system to recognize that the blocker is no longer being blocked and to start sending power through it. While this interruption is long enough to turn your auto turrets off and immediately back on its hardly a long enough pause to create a window of attack. We are talking about 3 seconds total where the auto turrets can't attack during the switch over. Also because this circuit is designed with a specific voltage cuttoff point unlike any other infinite power circuit you will find it doens't suffer from the back and forth issue you were talking about even if power only by solar panels. However. If you REALLY REALLY can't stand the lights flickering as it changes to battery power each night, assuming you are running only on solar, there is a way around it. All you would have to do is setup a second circuit like this one. Now create a situation where that circuit looses sufficient main power first. You could accomplish this with solar panels by not pointing them directly at the sun but rather off angle a little. Now run both of these infinite power circuits into another OR Switch. From there run your power out to your base. If you do this you literally double the cost of setup but you could completely avoid the lights flickering once per night. What happens is that both circuits still do the flicker as they switch to battery power but because the don't both switch at the same time the main circuity of your base, lights or whatever, is insulated from the effect. Again thx for watching and commenting. I honestly didn't know if there was a way to avoid the flicker but after spending a little time in creative I figured it out. It was an interesting problem to solve :)

Hey man. Thanks for explaining. Yea i was wrong in my words. What i meant was that switch where it accepts either input. I have been in the situation where it switches from solar power to the battery and back again several times, so the flicker happened quite many times. My problem was that when the sun was going down, the power input from solar panels was jumping up and down from the threshold that activate the blocker. So for me it worked with the switch that accepts either input (the highest one). Can't quite remember what it's called though. an "and/or gate"? Don't have rust open for it. I did a lot of theese designs and have all the schematics on written down the old school way on paper (: Just like they taught in physics class back in the day. And right back at ya mate. Thanks for sharing knowledge and creativity!

if you have inverted doors (i have needed those in a trapbase), where the doors need to be open, and close when activated, the doors will shut and open every time the flicker happens (: Very specific case though. I mainly tried to avoid the flicker, because i didn't trust my sensors when flickering was going on. And i needed those for protecting my base.

@@markhelkoland7714 Ive used this very successfully on trap bases. The chances of something critical happening just as the power its transferring from mainline to backup is 1 in 1800, at least in vanilla as it would happen twice a day/night cycle and that happens every hour. That said it wouldn't cause anything not to work right it just might be delayed 1 entire second, which for my trap base designs at least doesn't make any difference they are just as dead.

@@K162KingPin yea you are so right. I'm aslo just geeking out about the designs (: I'm pretty perfectionistic about it :D And if my circuit doesn't do what i need it to do, i often do some overly complicated stuff to make it do it :D

Maybe if you could tell me what it is doing I could help you figure out where things went wrong? I'm happy to help but I need more information.

Who cares

not sure what you mean? as far as i know the only thing about this that isn't congruent with reality is that you can't use a battery and charge it at the same time, which you can do in real life. So if anything its a disadvantage that it doesn't work like a real battery. Other than that this is directly related to real world electronics and how they work.

@@K162KingPin but this is a perpetuum mobile its called an "infinite power corcuit.

Ok I see what you mean, thats just a nick name that others in the community gave the general idea before I did this. It does NOT give you free power. This circuit in no way generates power from nothing. In case that doesn't answer your concern keep reading. In rust batteries don't behave as they do in real life. In real life a battery can be both charged and used simultaneously. Like using your phone while its plugged into the charging cord. In rust you would have to turn your phone off to charge it, then disconnect the charger before you could turn the phone on. So this circuit is a workaround for the fact that batteries do NOT work correctly in rust. The "infinite power" is simply describing that if its dark and your solar panel isn't picking up light then you will still have power to your circuit as this design automatically switches the battery from being in charge mode, to discharge mode. Still the power in the battery itself ultimately came from the solar panel, it didn't come from nothing. Still if your solar panel were destroyed, or something placed over it so it couldn't get sunlight then the battery would eventually drain and you would no longer have power. I suppose the most unrealistic thing about it is that in rust you always have sun light during the day on a very predictable time table. In reality solar panels perform differently depending on the weather. In very cloudy conditions they are practically useless. In rust that isn't a problem. Similarly if you use a Win Turbin in real life you will inevitably have periods where you have no wind. In rust the wind always blows, it varies in speed, and therefore power output but the wind doesn't ever stop. Still this is by no means and exploit or some sort of perpetual motion generation it is simply game mechanics and not an unintended use of them. Still I'm glad you brought this up so I could clear up any confusion.

@@K162KingPin You're so nice dude... explaining things to this douche who obviously didn't watched your video, just read the title and yet felt the need to post a stupid comment. And I'm pretty sure he won't ever read your overkill answer.

Thx for watching :) "best" is as always a matter of opinion. The reason I call this best is because 1) it does the job that the old style did but cost less to build 2) it requires 40% less power input to do it 3) it doesn't have a dead zone time frame while power is in a low range like the the old circuit So when I say its the best I mean its the best at doing what it was designed to do. Considering its entire purpose is to provide continuous power while your main power source is underproduction during night or low wind, or destroyed and it does that, how could it be better. I have played around with what you are talking about, yes it does reduce the rate that the battery discharges but for solar panels it would only do it for a few seconds between the time the circuit switches to battery power and the time the sun is completely down. So the extra power you manage to get out of it is not only very low but also very brief. Considering your battery was already going to last through the night this is basically pointless and cost a lot more to build the circuitry to do it. This would be more viable on a circuit using large batteries and wind turbines but even then only if the wind turbines are in a fairly low altitude area, there is no way for you to build them up higher, you are unable to simply build another wind turbine to help power the system, and your power input is so borderline that your batteries actually are not staying charged up. Again extremely limited usefulness and several much easier ways to fix the problem than adding even more circuitry. In the end it doesn't matter because there is no way to put a root combiner between the battery and the necessary circuitry to automatically switch it back and forth. So no only would your circuit use up more power for the extra components but it would have to be manually operated making it so much worse than this fully automatic one. So the circuit you suggest would... 1) have to be manually operated, no automation 2) would be much more costly to make 3) require even more power to operate 4) no accomplish anything that isn't already accomplished with this circuit Still I do appreciate your input. Please share your circuit design, I'd like to compare it to what I've come up with. rustrician.io/ you can make your circuit here. Also let me know what situations you have come up with where recovering that power had actually kept your circuit alive where this one would have otherwise failed. I'm really interested to know as I'm struggling to come up with any realistic scenarios.

Thx for watching... read other comments this has been addressed many times.

Thx for watching :). Better is clearly a matter of opinion. I can run a LOT of circuits off this tiny amount of power. Even if I needed a little more power it would be significantly cheaper to build two of these and run them in "parallel" rather than build even a single large battery. Furthermore if you saw the whole video this does also work with the large batter if you need more power. However that will only get you 4 hours even if you make 2 of them not 8 hours as you suggest. In order to get 8 hours out of it you would have to run them in a fail cascade setup. In other words you would have to set them up that they could both charge and when main power failed then the first battery would take over while preventing the second discharging until the first battery failed, then the second battery would kick in. That setup would require at least 3 wind turbines at rather high altitudes to power your circuit and charge the batteries any anything resembling a timely fashion and it would cost significantly more HQM to build. Setting this up isn't hard at all just far more expensive and completely unnecessary for most operations. So better? It would depend entirely on what you were trying to power. So now im curious. What are you trying to power that you need 8 hours of backup power? I mean, other than auto turrets I can't imagine what could possibly need to run for more than 4 hours and even then 8 hours would hardly be enough, unless you are the most hard core gamer I've ever heard of and you actually don't leave the game for more than 8 hours at a time.

@@K162KingPin well I Ment having them as a fail cascade and I had to have ove of these because we were on a big server with big groups and some of the raids lasted more than 4 hours for example (yes they were shit at offline raiding) Just to say that I was giving you a redundancy to add to your circuit because blowing up the solar panels or even batteries first will stop auto turrets so having redundancy is vital

@@chuckster116 I see what you mean, you just through me with your terminology. I have made and used such circuits but I havn't made a video because of their incredibly limited usefulness, maybe I should make one. thx again for watching.

@@K162KingPin no prob maybe make a vid on how to irritate anyone with a rf pager Was alot of fun doing that

First thx for watching :). Second sry about the title. I didn't come up with it, this is a term coined by many others for similar circuits so I call it that because that what is recognized by others for this type of circuit. I agree its no a very accurate description of the circuit. It should be "automatically switching backup battery power circuit" or something like that. I didn't even design the basic idea for the circuit. I just took a bad design everyone was using and made it better. That said... this circuit was made obsolete by the November update of last year. Batteries in rust can now charge and discharge at the same time. The lose 20% of their power charging but if you input 25% more power than they are discharging they will maintain their charge. So now all you need to is have solar panel to battery in, battery out to workload. Its very ez. As for the input for a small battery you would need 12.5 volts input if you are using the full 10 volts output in order to maintain the charge level. Hope this helps and thx again for watching.

It is? Rust only has one unit of measurement. Doesn't matter if you are reading the output from a solar panel, a battery, or an orswitch. Since they are all the same it only remains to determine what unit the rust creators have simplified everything to. The only way to do this is to refer back to the power sources. Win Turbines and Solar panels are measured in Watts and Voltage. Batteries are measured in Voltage and Amp Hours. There is no way to distinguish between the solar panels and wind turbines as to whether their output is meant to refer to voltage or watts but there is on the batteries. Since the batteries display both an output number and a time remaining it is obvious that the time remaining refers to the Amp Hours. Furthermore when choosing or using a battery the most important number is always Voltage. So its not at all unusual for the output to be referring to the Voltage. Furthermore while batteries are not measured in watts its easy to prove that this is no the measurement as both batteries maintain a steady output all the way up until their time remaining runs out. If the output were watts then the output number would decrease as the time remaining decreased. Batteries are capable of providing less and less amps the closer they get to their EMS value or the closer they get to running out of Amp Hours but they are designed to maintain their voltage even when almost completely dead. The point is that the measured output from the batteries absolutely has to be referring to voltage and since we only get one type of measured output from batteries, solar, or anything else then they must all be Voltage. I know this is disappointing to all of us with backgrounds in electronics but lets face it. They dumbed it down for the game. Lets just be glad there is electricity at all.

I completely understand. I don't monetize my channel so this is all purely for the benefit of others like you. I also completely understand being impatient and not wanting to watch and entire video when all I need is one tiny piece of information. I'm the same way. That said. Look in the description. The very first thing you will see is a link to the complete circuit with all values posted. I believe this is what you are looking for? If not let me know.

This was recorded on a creative server lol :) Everything is free, that said the actual components for this build are easily affordably even on a vanilla server, though I usually play on 5x modded.