The Panasonic GH5 lenses I can't leave home without! 

biscuitsalive

Cheers Pete. Yes pets leave big holes. Nearly ready for a new cat.... nearly.

Just like the modified Canon 5D's (Magic Lantern) locked up Just as the bride walked down the isle. I am a bit old fashioned mate, I trust the Panasonic engineers who were the first to give us the compact-size 4K sub system. designed to work together. I use a couple of Pana/ Oly lenses (f1.2 > f1.7) Always consistent reliability and travel light. But do enjoy watching your clips

Constantine Ongarezos glad it helped buddy. :)

Snyal Kino glad it was useful.

Thanks, il be honest, i don't notice much colour difference between most of my more expensive lenses. I guess a slight pink /warm shift with the sigma maybe. i don't normally spot much difference in colour rendition unless i pick up some vintage lenses, then the variation can be striking, with blue lens flares etc. most modern lenses (in my experience) only shift colour a small amount. but of course you will notice colour fringing with many lenses. (C.A.) and that can give a colour difference.... in regards to the 70-200 2.8 v2, one of my favourite things about that lens is the epic image stabilisation. I know that sounds boring, but its just so much better than the tamrons, panasonic sigmas long lenses i have tried. ... generally its a robust workhorse. a real 'keeper'.

Thanks! I'm already subbed to you so know what you do :)

:)

thanks!

I have some really old Nikons (and my old Nikon film camera) in a box in the garage somewhere... really should dig them out and check what they are like.

If you have anything fast you should definitely be using it. Also super secret M43 Speedbooster info!! Get the Canon Speedboosters XL and buy a Nikon F to EF adapter plate. This way you only buy one Speedbooster and it works for both Nikon and Canon lenses!

Auto focus on adapted lenses on GH5 is bad for video. I don't recommend it. manual focus only is recommended. (GH5 isn't a brilliant AF video camera even with native lenses, and that only gets worse through an adaptor)

biscuitsalive Thank You for the reply. I just want to make s wise purchase so your answer helps. If I go with the 2.8 35 -100 lens, either way manual focus sounds like the way to go. I am a hybrid shooter and in extreme run and gun situations. I think the adapter and the canon lens in manual might be too stressful with keeping steady at full on 200mm unless on tripod. Again thank you for suggestion and replying.

@@TwisterChasers no probs, thats what youtube is good for after all. the only word of warning i will give you is that personal i find the native IS lenses do not have amaizing stabilisation at the long end for video... fine for holding a shot locked, but panning can be twitchy.. this goes for the GH5 IBIS too.. ibis on GH5 is honestly amazing... but only with wide and medium focal lengths... for long shots i find the ibis not so reliable.. so i rely on the canons IS instead. its a bit smoother. But of course i haven't tried every lens and combo. just my general experience. (Lumix I.S. lenses are a little twitchy compared to Canon I.S,.)

Iv bought a bunch of lenses Simone I made this video. But still use the 24-105.f4 It’s just such a useful range. And if you have shoots where changing primes lots just isn’t possible. Then it’s still my go to run and gun lens.

Diego Llorente hi. Thanks. Regarding AF. To be honest if your coming from canon. Expect to be disappointed with AF. Especially with non native lenses. I NEVER use AF for video. But it's fine for simple portraits for stills with canon lenses. Still prob faster to manual focus anyway though. So to sum up. AF for video isn't great anyway. And worse through adaptor. AF for stills is ok. But better with native lenses. Regarding the XL. As long as you are using full frame EF. I think that XL one is the best option. (Fairly sure, it was best option when I bought it at least. Possible a model came out since I don't know about) But if you have any apsc canon lenses then you may get some vignetting with XL.

gautam matti thanks buddy. Yes cats leave a hole when they are gone. :(

Depends on the booster. On my XL booster it works out as 30mm-134mm And the f4 matches a f5 for DOF And f2.5 for exposure.

JesseDriftwood yep I did consider that. But a smart adaptor is $400 (to keep IS and aperture control) and the 2x adaptor means I can use that on my FF cameras too. So i decided that would make more sense.

Michael Nilsson cheers. If your getting the 18-35 get the .71 booster not the .64. 18-35 is apsc. You have to pick your battles. The XL does get the most out of your full frame lenses. Most light and wider FOV. And DOF is most similar to a full frame camera. So just decide if you really want the 18-35 Getting the .71 booster will give all your full frame lenses a narrower FOV and also loose a tiny bit of sharpness too. And also lose a bit of light. The 18-35 is a great lens. But not the be all and end all. Note the 18-35 doesn’t vignette on XL all through zoom range I believe. But I don’t have that lens so can’t confirm that Also you can put the gh5 in ex crop mode and retain 4K So it wouldn’t vignette then. But you will lose the wide angle view.

John Packard only half my lenses are primes. I don't have too much of a dust problem. But yes I clean sensors myself. Air can first. Then stubborn stuff I use one of those lens pen sensor cleaners. Seems fine as long as careful. Regarding native lenses. They are fine. But I sold most of mine as I generally hate fly by wire focus. Also as I have full frame cameras too it's great to have most of my lenses be able to fit on any bodies. (Not to mention FF lenses generally are much faster than m43 lenses... remember that a f2 m43 lens equates to a f4 on FF)

My gear has changed a bit since I made this. But I still have many of these lenses. I found step up rings on most of them lenses. Then a screw on 77mm filters. A VND and a 8 stop, 6 stop etc. then smaller VND for the small lenses. If i as filming something specific I would choose maybe 3 or 4 lenses to take and have them all with NDs on them ready in my bag.

Reubs I set up a little controlled set up when I get a new lens. A few well lit objects and maybe a printed page of a book should be enough. Use stills not video. Use 2 sec deley shutter release. Shoot at as many apertures as you have patience for. (Widest, f2 f4 f8 f16 etc.) It's also worth checking for chromatic aberration (colour fringing on high contrast edges) best to shoot at sky with tree branches or something like that in front for this. It's likely your best results will be between f4 and f8 or maybe f16. But some high quality lenses look perfectly sharp from f2.8 to f16 (Like that sigma 50 art, canon 70-200 or the nocticron) It's dull, but worth checking your lenses when you get them as many manufactures have poor quality control. And vary from lens to lens so you can send it straight back if you have a soft one. (I found that on samyang/rokinon especially... think they have half blind monkeys working in their factories. :D)

Heis aPilot eBay. Always some hassle selling/buying. And you do get pestered by silly questions from eBay "buyers" but it's probably the best place to get a decent price I think. (Wish I had some good local camera stores to deal with. But it's slim pickings in Cornwall where I live.)

cheers mate!

Heis aPilot I sold my G7 on eBay. It sold body only for the same price I paid for it with the lens!

Chris Sheeran thanks. So missed.

only very very expensive lenses are parfocal zooms. so don't expect focus to be perfect if you are zooming lots. but if you zoom in all the way, then focus, chances are the focus will be ok when you zoom out. just not the other way around.

Hi, think only the 18-35 to be concerned with, I have heard both sides of this, some 18-35 1.8 owners saying XL vignettes... and some saying its fine for video. as i don't have the 18-35 i can't test it to confirm for you sorry... do a search online for GH5 XL booster, 18-35mm f1.8 and then see what results you get... it makes sense that the 18-35 WILL vignette as its a apsc lens.... and the XL booster gives you a crop that is very similar to APSH sensor... but maybe its only when you have the lens set wide (18mm) maybe its ok if you just zoom in a bit... sorry i can't confirm it for you, but there does seem to be some confusion... some people saying one thing.... others saying another. But get the XL if possible, that will give your FF lenses the best FOV and speed/sharpness.

No, I never went down that route, it looks like a sharp useful little lens too.

biscuitsalive very useable focal range

Loveee that lens. Have it myself :)

Borderland Films kânham

barandcross thats was the official price when in bought mine. Have the sneaky chaos brought it up since gh5 release? As I have never tried the 18-35 on XL I can't comment. Heard it vignettes at the wide end. But that may just be for full sensor photos.

I used a friend's Metabones XL with the 18-35 and no problems, but I hear there have been a few with the GH5. I am waiting another month or 2 and then will try and get the "definitive: answer from Metabones themselves. I am surprised you have never tried the Sigma 18-35 lens - it is much revered in the filmmaking community as a great all round video lens.

barandcross yep been tempted. But I don't use apsc lenses. Want my main lenses to work on my full frame cameras too. Looks like a great lens. That would equate to a 27-52mm f2.7 FF lens. Which is a very handy range/speed. And I hear it's sharp too. Shame no IS but gh5 IBIS sorts that at least.

Richard Cabezza lots of people rate the 12-35. Not for me personally. I dislike manual focusing with fly by wire. I kept the 42.5 f1.2 nocticron even though it has FBW focus. Simple because it's great for stills. But in general FBW focus will put me off a lens. So that's my main reason for selling most of my native panny lenses. Also consider if you want to use g85 in bad /low light. If you do then there is no real choice other than get a speed booster. Many fast/cheap FF lenses. So even the fastest native m43 lenses can be out performed by comparatively cheap FF lenses. (Which eats up the cost of the speed booster easily, if you buy a few primes.) Example. The nifty fifty canon 50mm f1.8 (at £60) Is considerably faster /brighter than my 42.5mm f1.2 nocticron. (At £1000) Just an example. Image is nicer on the nocticron, But you get my point. It's best to add crop factor to the focal Length AND the aperture when comparing native lenses to FF or apsc. So if it says it's f4 on native. Than means it's as good as a f8 FF lens. So that 12-35mm f2.8 equates to a 24-70mm f5.6 FF. This way of thinking will help you understand how to compare depth of field. And light gathering between diff system lenses. Of course if you don't need low light, and your happy with autofocus or simply just setting focus once and not "pulling" focus whilst filming. Then the natives lenses are fine. They are sharp and light weight. So that's the main benefit for native.

Thanks that lens does look good, great reviews. I have since then bought a few lenses. 3 new Canon lenses, including a old Canon 17-40 (which is great if you don't need speed), a olympus 25mm f1.8 (which is surprisingly sharp indeed) But i still do have a gap in my section for a really fast wide. have to say I'm still likely to go for a sigma, i know 20mm isn't super super wide, but that f1.4 20mm may be just the ticket for me. (keep hoping to see one second hand but no one is selling theirs right now)

Muwex yes that does look good.

Tatu Pärssinen yes I have responded to this before. It’s a good point. But il explain why I do it my way. A decent solid adaptor with electronic pass through (For IS and aperture control) is still quite expensive. And I also run full frame cameras (Sony) which need the 2x for the extra length sometimes too. (So the 2x can be used on my canons gh5 and Sony’s hence its better value for my situation.) What’s more, I like to be able to swap out lenses quickly and generally want the extra light/shallower DOF I get with the booster. (So swapping the booster for a dumb adaptor is just another thing to slow things down when I’m changing lenses. ) Also these days I have the gh5 in small rig case with the metabones screwed onto the case. So it’s all one solid unit and takes minutes to remove cage and booster. It makes my rig much more solid for the longer lenses. But does mean popping native lenses or changing adaptor is more of a faff. (I keep a second penny with native lenses on it for lighter jobs) Ideally I will get a 150-600mm lens. (Likely tamron Or sigma) and use that when I need the reach. But you are completely correct, I’m pulling with one thing and pushing with another. But generally it is sharper to use the booster. As it’s using more of the lenses glass. And imperfections are not magnified. (As they would be with a dumb adaptor) I wouldn’t recommend the 2x adaptor for many lenses. But the 70-200 f2.8ii is very sharp. So it can take a little softening and still be acceptable for 4K .

biscuitsalive good points! So many variables

Tatu Pärssinen yep. Il get round to doing a new vid for gh5 lenses soon hopefully. Few New lenses and lots of new gear since this one.

raztechstudios as I mention in the vid. I use the XL. As I have full frame canon EF only get the other one if u want to use it with apsc lenses.

biscuitsalive - Thanks

You have to be in a good position. (Distance wise) a point break near the point etc. Watch my “better get it right” surf film. That was all with that lens/extender

@@biscuitsalive I see, i was thinking of getting the 600mm sigma sports or the canon 70-200 with x2 teleconverter. Thanks for the reply

Carlos Escobar I tried the 150-600. Sigma. It’s great but I found the I.S. Jittery for Panning compared to canon. Great for locked off shots. But looked odd for slow pans.

@@biscuitsalive Awesome, i wonder how the gh5 will go with the leica dg elmarit 70-200 2.8 with x2 teleconverter 🤔🤔🤔 but cheers for the reply

Yes i think those Zeiss will be good on the GH5/booster (not used them myself but look good). manual focus is the way to go in my opinion anyway. (for video) with the Sbooster .71 you take the cameras crop factor (x2) then times that first then times the speedboosters .71 so a FF 35mm f 1.4 becomes a 50mm f2 ... or on my .64 XL booster it would become a 45mm f1.8 .... (remember to do the crop factor to the f-stop too to gauge low light ability and DOF)

watch this boring science vid if you do want to know more about that f-stop crop - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6XMk9jFcnlA.html

Lee Daley no I haven't tried that one. This is the great thing about a m43 /mirrorless a crazy amount of different lenses you can pop on them. :) Does that one have fly by wire focus or manual focus ring?

biscuitsalive unfortunately yes it has the same pull back collar mechanism on many Olympus lenses. but give it a try if you get the chance 80-300 eq at 2:8 in a smallish package is a bit special.... for me at least

Lee Daley I will certainly give it a go if I get a chance. Long lenses are my meat and veg so always looking for options. That canon 70-200 image stabilization is the big draw there for me. Hate wobbly shots. :)

Milan Kovac there is a few types that should do the job. But most people say the metabones is the best option. So XL version for Nikon to m43. (Which I'm guessing exists... i am mostly canon so not certain about Nikon.)

I have look on that,thank you

RP_Shots I haven't used the panny 100-300 so can't comment in full. But heard it was sharp. Do you need low light? Do you need AF? The canon tele with a speed booster will give decent sharpness and better low light performance than the natives. (In most cases due to the 1.5 stops of light the booster will gain) I find the canon IS on telephotos better than native IS so far. But not tried every lens option of course) and much better than relying on gh5 ibis. (Ibis good for hand held wide - medium. But not great with long lenses) I would probably recommend a metabones XL and a tamron 150-600mm (the new one) This is what I am likely to upgrade to soon for surfing. Or the maybe the canon 100-400 IS. Depends how close you can get.

RP_Shots (the adaptor does slow down AF, but likely u are a manual man like me anyway)

Sorry to hear that, i haven't got a clue why that would be happening to be honest. never tried the fotodiox, so I'm guessing its the adaptor. (what else could it be after all)

Thank you, sir. Appreciate it. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't being dense and missing something simple!

i doubt your missing something, heard good things about fotodiox, so maybe just a duff one. presuming you have AF turned on (on lens and back of camera) and all the basics covered. also make sure your running latest firmware, as i said i don't know much about fotodiox, but on metabones you have to plug it in to usb and download latest FW from metabones site.

j k that's a lot to chat about. Firstly the nocticron 42.5 vs sigma 50 They both have extremely similar quality. (Stupid high sharpness and lovely bokeh) The 1.4 50mm on a speed booster is brighter than the f1.2 on native. (42.5 f1.2 equates to a 85mm f2.4 on a full frame in terms of DOF and light gathering) If you don't want the bigger heavier lenses then obviously stay to native. But as I use several cameras it makes sense for me to invest in FF lenses. So they can be used on any camera. In terms of the long lens native options. I have tried a few (not the 100-300 though) and in my experience you are not gaining image quality with FF lenses. But the image stabilization seems much better in lenses like that canon 70-200 compared to LUMIX image stabilization. Maybe it's the physical size of the lens allowing for better tech. Or maybe canon just has much better IS in general. But if you shoot in long lenses a lot. Then you may benefit from the superior IS in FF lenses. That said... remember auto focus will always be better with native lenses. So if you use AF then that's another reason to stick to native. (That's the main reason I keep the 42.5 nocticron ... great AF for stills) So it's always a trade off I'm afraid. FF lenses / speed booster = brighter image/shallower DOF and lower ISO at same fstop. Better IS (often). Also greater comparability with other cameras. (Maybe you will trade up to a FF camera body in a couple of years... in which case you can keep same lenses. ) Native= better AF. Smaller and lighter. Both native and FF lenses have great sharp options. So don't worry about that.

Just to add to that... regarding image stabilization. Of course there is a small group of IS native LUMIX lenses that allow duel IS. (In body IS with lens IS) So in some cases IS is better with native. So that contradicts some of what I said above. But of course there are not many lenses that currently support duel IS. This may change thou with further updates and new lenses.

How's autofocus speed with SB + Canon 70-200mm? Do you think that it's fast enough to take sports photos? Thank you so much for your info. I'll probably try a speed booster with FF lenses and see how it turns out...

I would say no, not for sports, (on 70-200 / speedbooster) ok for portraits with minimal movement, but for sports AF you will need native lenses, any adaptor will slow down AF a fair amount. To be honest I wouldn't choose the gh5/4 for sports stills full stop. (if that was your main priority) a canon with dual sensor AF will kick any panasonic ass for fast moving sports stills.

but of course once you know your cameras limitations you can work around it, set focus up in advance and allow the subject to move into your focus area. but obviously more planning/time for this sort of thing.

Sooovann sounds like a great pair! Is the result in for 18-35mm sigma when it comes to vignetting on the XL speed booster? Heard varying results. Think it may vignette a little at the wise end on the XL. But I haven't done tests or anything... just remember someone saying that.

Hi biscuitsalive, Nice video, informative. I got the GH5 recently. I'm new with it and learning. I got the Sigma 18-35 and it looks pretty good. I'm just a beginner so seeing what else works out. Let me know if you try out more native lenses. I Only got the LUMIX G LEICA DG SUMMILUX Lens, 12mm, F1.4 ASPH so far but that looks great.

Glad it was useful. i have tried some o the main native lenses... but i really don't like the flyby wire focus, so that was one of the main reasons to go to FF lenses. (that and i can then use the same lenses across several camera bodies of course|)

there is AF with any AF lens through speed booster.... its just a bit slow.

oh OK i had heard that there was NO auto focus and that you could only use manual focus...thanks

Yes its really not bad at all. That is a feature that not many people are talking about, but its a BIG quality that the GH5 has, rolling shutter is very well controlled indeed, better than gh4, MUCH better than any of the Sonys (a7s2 a7r2 a6500 etc.)... I think unless you are constantly filming out of train windows or fast cars driving past the rolling shutter is really very minimal. :) I may do a video to show how much better it is than the sonys/gh4 if i get a chance.

check out my latest upload... tested the RS for you :)

Jonathan Stone no that’s not completely correct. If u look on my channel you will see a test comparing lens IS to gh5ibis. For handheld wide lens shots then yes ibis is better. But for anything long the canon lens IS works better. Also for lenses like my 70-200. If used on a tripod in shakey conditions. (Windy etc) the ibis doesn’t kick it at all. Where as the lens is does a great job. If u look at my recent storm Ophelia edit. If I didn’t have lens IS for that it would be unwatchable. As the ibis couldn’t cope with it at all.

LordCaes hi. Glad it was useful. The sigma art and the nocticron are quite similar in many ways. They both have similar smooth bokeh. They both vignette about the same wide open. The f1.4 on the full frame sigma is of course faster than the f1.2 m43 lens. (F1.2 = a f2.4 full frame lens in terms of DOF etc) (F1.4 on XL booster being like a f1 m43 lens or a FF f1.8) The sigma has much nicer manual focus. But then the nocticron has great image stabilisation. (Giving gh5 duel IS) I think the sigma has a both better contrast. But very little in it. The sigma is a hair sharper. But unlikely you will see that difference unless you are pixel peeping hi res stills. Don’t think you would see sharpness difference in 4k video. Lastly. They both colour cast a bit wide open. A bit pinky. But not an issue.

LordCaes oh and of course the AF is not great through adaptor on sigma. But great for stills on nocticron. (I wouldn’t use Af on video at all on gh5 for anything serious)

Thank you biscuitsalive for all the info - very helpful. I currently use a samyang 1.4 for my 50mm which I like a lot, but looking around for a really top 50mm. Might consider the Sigma Art 30 or 50 too. I think value for money they are hard to beat, but then the dual IS of the Nocticron does help create such nice shots. Thank you again!

if you are fussy about your image you won't be disappointed with sigma art. most cameras won't even be high enough MP to use all that detail. :) I used it on a 42MP Sony a7r2 and in my tests it was sharper wide open than the Sony Zeiss 55mm f1.8. so that gives you some idea. :) and extremely high contrast and clean looking.

OK sounds great! thank you for the help.

Robby Nowell I've heard the 1.7 is almost as sharp. And one thing about the 1.2 is it's so fat! It can make mounting the gh4/5 tricky depending on the mounting plate you use. (Lens sticks out further than the bottom of camera)

Yeah, I think it might be too unwieldy for a G85/G7 to handle for walkabout work. Now that I am saving over $1000 I can put that towards a GH5. Gotta have that slowmo :-)

Robby Nowell I have seen side by sides between 1.2 and 1.7 and you are lot losing too much. (I bought my 1.2 before 1.7 was out so it wasn't a choice for me) If you do shoot in bad light a lot then the 1.2 may be worth it. But if you just want a shallow DOF and a sharp image the 1.7 should be fine.

Francesco Bacchini that camera crop is X2 but he speedbooster is .64. So that's 14 x2 x .64 = 17.95mm equiv

Francesco Bacchini (or another way to look at it is the XL booster allows a APS H equiv sensor.

Thanks for the fast reply. But what happens if I buy the lens specifically for the Micro 4/3 mount without any adapter, booster or metabones?

Francesco Bacchini then you just apply the crop factor. (X2 on m43) so a 25mm m43 Lens has same FOV as a 50mm on FF

Francesco Bacchini sounds like you may find this vid useful. It takes down all of the basics. And also helps to combat a lot of the mis information there is out there about crop sensor image. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6XMk9jFcnlA.html

Hi (your comment went into spam for some reason) its the 'Case Logic SLRC-206 SLR Camera/Laptop Backpack ' its pretty good... i need something bigger now though... (i have 4 bags to hold sony, assassin and all the rest of my video crap)

yes that does look like a good option, picked up a few more lenses since this vid, but still have a gap for fast wide... bu want super fast.. so that sigma 20mm f1.4 has my name on it still. (waiting to spot a decent priced second hand one)

there is not a lot in it, if you want Vlog (for more dynamic range) then gh4. if you want IBIS for handheld shots then the g85. both great cams and very similar. so you can't go far wrong

thanks

Shark loawa 7.5mm f2 is good Or Olympus 12mm f2 is pretty good for a less extreme wide.

Thanks Dude! Really appreciate you replying. So the Loawa 7.5mm is the widest lens for the GH5?

there are a few very wide lenses that have similar VERY WIDE field of view, but as far as i know thats the only one that is corrected, (so not fish eye) and is native M43..... by way i believe there is a lite version and a regular version of the loawa. if you are thinkngin of getting a inspire type drone, then get the 'lite' version as this is lighter for use on drones.

Thanks mate appreciated. Not yet getting a drone, but you never know. :) Such a tough choice as I am looking at the VOIGTLANDER 10.5mm f0.95 MFT Nokton Lens and the Panasonic Leica DG Vario-Elmarit 8-18mm f/2.8-4 ASPH

@@Filmmaker809 So many choices, the native wide zoom is good too, not as good in low light of course due to its slower aperture. i think i would go with loawa 7.5 if i was buying a new native wides right now. as long as you want it that wide of course. that is very wide, good for small spaces or on a gimbal / showing camera movement, or moving through landscape. (when its that wide very deep DOF too, so most of everything is on focus.

Which one. Used 3. All from artlist.

Danmark Digger I would be keen to test those. Compare that 25mm to my sigma 50mm f1.4. See how they do. :)

How do you like them? What other lenses you try out? Are they good in low light?

robbyboyo so many great natives. But if you use a few diff camera systems FF makes most sense.

biscuitsalive I also have the canon 24-105 and the nifty 50 which I only sometimes use on the gh4. Nice to see your channel growing.

robbyboyo thanks. Very slowly growing. :D Good job I'm not doing this for a living. Hobby stuff for me. But obviously much nicer if a few people actually see my work. :)

robbyboyo by way. I still have the nifty fifty. And always surprised by how sharp it is when I use it. The rule of diminishing returns is really obvious comparing that expensive sigma 50 and the canon 50 1.8. I think most people would not be able to tell the difference looking at the images they produce.

mark shirley which one the f0.95? Yep looks good. But bare in mind that's a m43 lens. So it equates to around a f1.8 full frame lens on a speed booster. My f1.4 sigma art 50 will be brighter/faster than a m43 f0.95

To put it in perspective. My old (not used anymore) canon 50mm f1.8 lens which is about £60. (On a XL speed booster) Is brighter and faster than my nocticron f1.2 42.5mm, which is about £1000 Admittedly the speed booster costs about £550. But you see my point.

biscuitsalive f0.95 😀 35mm equivelent

yep good lens, but remember to do the crop factor on the f-stop to figure out if its as fast as you think it is. This vid spells that stuff out for you if it helps - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6XMk9jFcnlA.html

I generally shoot in 25p so i can't offer too much advice on 24fps I'm afraid, but I'm surprised it make much difference (one 24p to another 24p) .

All depend on the type of video you do.

Timofey Gorlov not quite sure about some of your English. Bit plenty of shot examples at end. As it says on screen. And in description.

Weston Bernard no im not biased to a brand. I actually mainly went for a bunch of canon lenses because of that 70-200 2.8mkii. I hear the Nikon lens is great. But the focus breathing is bad on it isn't it? So the 200mm when filming portrait is way off of 200mm (more like a 140mm) I just think canon has such a huge selection. And I have full frame Sony cameras too. So it makes sense to stick to one eco system mainly. That seems to have a huge choice. (I do have Sony emount, m43, and a bunch of other lenses too not mentioned in this vid. )

Weston Bernard p.s. As I mention in the vid. I also have bought and sold a bunch of other lenses. Tamrons, lumix, rokinons. And I just get on with the EF lenses best I guess. Simple things like the feel of the manual focus etc just seems right to me on L series EF

Oh, I see. One thing I should note is that the "focus breathing" issue with the Nikon only existed with the VR1 version. I would know since I owned it before replacing with the VRii. The only lens that resolves better than the 200mm part of the (zoom) scale is the $5700 Nikon 200mm f/2. I agree with you about the fun factor of the Samyang 7.5mm fisheye. I have one. But like you, the distortion (even for a fisheye) just bothered me so much I got the Olympus 8mm fisheye. It's a bit more accurate and more useable for more serious work like weddings. By the way, your selection is impressive. Only thing I would add is the 17.5mm f/0.95 Voigtlander since you seem to like manual focus and that wide-open aperture look.

Weston Bernard thanks. Some good suggestions there. It feels like we are always chasing a lens or two aren't we. :) I have put bids on some anamorphic adaptors too. See what happens there. I think that 20mm sigma f1.4 has my name on it. Really want to do some wide nighttime stuff with my Sony/atomos assassin.

☠BelcherBoy☠ Deathshead Royal lol. It's just a beanie. My studio is always freezing.