With that said. I would absolutely buy an LG C1/G1 again if mine were to break or if I move. The reason: perfect blacks and OLED Motion Pro high at 60, 100 and 120
Amen. I can’t find anything on the market like it. True glossy, 4K 120hz BFI. You’ve spoiled me.. I’ll play in a pitch black room if need be, my favorite way to game anyway. I really wanted to make OLED monitors work, especially ASUS’ 1440p 240hz BFI (480hz native), but 1440p ≠ 4K & the matte finish is 🤮. The 360hz QD-OLED monitors are nice, but no BFI. My only hope is Dough, but their track record is horrific. Why can’t display makers & retailers take the hint?
The Retrotink 4k has better Bfi than the C1 and works on every tv. Also for monitors the Viewsonic XG2431 24 in has customizable strobing. You can do 60-240hz strobing. For example you can set it to 85hz and it will work.
plasma es un gram tv ojala que salga economico 4k pero creo que las pierza de plasma las fabricacion no es costo efectivo y las companias busca que sea ganacia tuver un amigos tenia plasma panasonic no ser si los vendio si los hiso fue mala idea si eso corre exeletes y es 1080p y ser ver bien definidos
@@blunaishI don't see how that device can reduce the persistence to lower than the refresh rate of a display. So basically for a 120Hz sample and hold display like these TVs are you can't get lower than 8ms of persistence with an external device like that
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 the XG2431 allows a persistence lower htan the refresh rate because you can set the backlight strobe length to be any amount of time, even a time shorter than the time between screen refreshes, although this isn't something the Retrotink 4k would help with.
Thank you Plasma , you are my hero. Such a long journey man. You helped a lot , even when you were already tired of me you still answered me. I really appreciate that. I love your content man, keep making it. I watched whole video , from the start to the end. So after watching it , can you write down your recommended setting when using DTM , like a list. I understood everything you said. I don’t know what i would do without you and your channel Thank you Plasma you are my hero ! ❤️
I'm always going to try my best. I explored a solution for you before I made this video but I wasn't convinced by it. You asked me how to lower the visibility near black to fix Dynamic tone mapping being too bright on the darkness. Lower the black stabilizer below 10, this will make it closer to HGIG on the dark scenes. I don't quite like the results when using white and black stabilizer but a little bit of them might be helpful
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 I seriously have to thank you for that Peak Brightness video, without it I probably would still hate my expensive purchase (even more because I live in a 3rd world country, you can probably imagine how ultra difficult was for me to get that TV lol)
I've seen them as "good enough", it's bright enough for viewing in the dark and I'm fine with it. I'll upgrade my C1 when they release something that is a direct upgrade, and nothing has come out that fits that description.
Ive ordered a s90c qd to replace my 2018 q8fn. Hoping it will be okay. I did enjoy the saturation and brightness for gaming in sdr, but the response times are like 12ms with black smear...
The best thing I did for my C2 was using the app calibration that you've recommend it some time ago. It really eliminated that awful green/yellow tint that was bothering me while making the overall picture warmer! I live in Norway so my room doesn't get much light and I never had issue with brightness 😂overall the only bad thing I would say about the tv is the red color that is oversatured compared to blue and green but I got used to it. Also I think it's a lot of work and tweaking to do if you wanna have a "perfect" picture for a consumer to do sadly...
I recently got C3. Really happy with it. I actually really like that colors are portrayed accurately and are not artificially popping out. It is best in dark and I think it's bright enough even in daylight. Only problem is dark scenes in daylight when there are reflections in dark spots of the screen.
All my displays are low brightness. I have a 55" C1, 50 " 1080p Plasma TV and a 19" 4:3 CRT monitor. I agree that for HDR, the C1 is too dim, especially with OLED Motion Pro High, but for SDR, I honestly don't mind it. The contrast ratio on all three displays is so much better than on an LCD that it more than makes up for it. I always play games and watch movies on them with the room being completely dark so I don't get any sun rays reflections/ambient light reflections so I can fully appreciate the amazing blacks that all three displays can give.
It becomes a problem in sunny rooms. The low brightness + glossy finish makes it hard to see dark scenes. But it's not worse than cheap TVs with big panels, as most of them struggle even reaching 300 nits in SDR; it's just a shame because of the OLEDs higher pricetag.
I agree that SDR does fix some of the brightness issues. Everything is just slightly brighter in SDR, which just makes it right at the usability threshold.
True. I think they made a great leap with the 55 inch G3. I own the G3 and I think the HDR is bright and beautiful, it doesn't leave me wanting more. I did trade up from an oled E7 oled though.
You can have “enough” brightness with daylight if the blinds of the windows are open just a bit and they are behind the tv. Should be almost closed, just close them till the reflections on the screen are small. On night I would recommed a lightbulb thing behind the tv. I am fine with it and I am using BFI. I would like more brightness from the tv? Of course I would like more brightness to open the blinds? Would be nice, but most of time I would not use it, because I like to keep blinds almost closed to avoid reflections on black scenes (space movies, for example)
Me personally am very happy with my purchase of the c1. At first I was very much underwhelmed with the brightness and hdr in gaming but thanks to all the settings and tools this channel and community found I actually managed to get the very great picture quality and gaming experience I wanted and I'm still enjoying the c1 to this day. I also learned lots of things about picture quality, about how settings affect the picture. I also found the bit about motion clarity very interesting to know about. I still totally agree there's much to be left desired when it comes to woled. I personally sometimes game in the living room on a 65 inch samsug lcd tv with not even that good local dimming but i guess above average native contrast. And I absolutely love the picture quality, I think when you're gaming and sitting far away from the display things like blooming and average response time, become less noticable depending on what game you play ofcourse. And things like color, size and brightness really shine on these tv's. But anyways thank you and everyone for this journey. Thanks to everything I've learned about what what makes a great picture quality.. I'm pretty much waiting for a 27 and 65+ inch - 1000hz motion clarity, 500hz/240hz, 1000/2000+nit peak brightness, 300/1000+nits fullscreen brightness, infinite contrast, perfect black, perfect screen uniformity, 99%color accurate, qd-oled like color, 0.1ms response time, 1ms input lag, glossy, wide viewing angle, under 1500$, 3d-capable display. Some of specs depend on the screen size and conditions i'm gonna use them in. I am probably gonna have to compromise on some of these specs (which I already did) but I am looking forward to the upcomming displays and vr headsets this year, not sure if I'll buy one though xd. I know the specs are probably unrealistic, I'm only kidding, kinda, sort of...
Love this video but it just shot my FOMO anxiety up the roof 😂. Still been enjoying my C2 but I guess it's time for me to splurge on one of those 3rd gen QD-OLEDs since they look noticeably better in both a lit-up and dark room. It is annoying I can't control the lighting in my room during the day but I really don't want to go back to LCDs lol. That new 4K QD-OLED from MSI is looking pretty sweet for just less than a $1k.
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 Have you seen any good mini-LED monitors in person? I heard they can be a good alternative to OLED in a lit room (especially the ones with 1000+ local dimming zones and a VA panel) but I have yet to find one on display in a tech store. I imagine the image quality would hold up fairly well but I am super suspicious of the motion clarity/response time in VA panels.
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 I just learned that Game Mode on my C2 dims/desaturates bright colors compared to Filmmaker mode (or any other non-Game Mode) with the same settings (except color depth in Game Mode is 55 instead of default 50). It is very noticeable to me especially when switching back and forth between the modes, but non-Game Mode also has noticeably more latency even when game optimizer is on alongside it. I wish TV/monitor reviewers talked about these problems more.
I noticed that in FPS mode the contours of some images look a little bad, try to notice this in letters or hair. It's something very subtle but try to understand this, notice the contours of the pixels. it improves the color a little yes, but It's not worth it to me after I realized that.
Brightness was my biggest point of contention with my C2. It was solid enough in HDR, but in SDR it was quite bad. I ended up getting the S95C and the difference in brightness and color saturation is insane. You are missing out on a lot if you don't have a QD OLED, in my opinion. It's really just that much better.
I cant with live out bfi now. I use auto for my retro games and High for current consoles. You helped me not want to leave my living room more. 😂 I got a while before I buy the same tv you do in the future. lol
biggest issue with QD-OLED atm is that it's not pitch black instead. So you have to make the decision, do you want the inky blacks with a lower peak brightness with WRGB OLED? or a greytone black but with great brightness with QD-OLED?
Just put the QD-OLED in a light controlled room. Perfect blacks with the lights turned off. Especially these flat QD-OLED panel monitors coming out. And near perfect blacks with just no direct light hitting the display.
I don’t have much experience with WOLED TVs but I will say this about the S90C during the day or with lights on. It’s still very punchy. I remember having trouble using my old plasma during the day, and sure, blacks are raised a little, but the TV is still very usable during the day, and only gets better as the lights get dimmer. With a dim light, and especially from a regular viewing distance, the blacks are pretty black. So, it’s a catch 22. Still looks great during the day, but as of yet, there’s no TV that’s perfect blacks AND bright during the day. And with Woled, you’re worrying about reflections from white walls sometimes too, which ruins blacks anyway. Just pros and cons for everything basically.
What exactly is G3 doing to boost color volume, at the end of the day it’s still a wrgb oled screen and it doesn’t have qd-layer so what tech are they using exactly?
They are preventing wastage of light with mla and using that to increase brightness. But that makes the colors even more washed out as its wrgb. I have lost all hope from LG, they don't even have a true rgb oled tv let alone a qd oled.
Brightness is overrated in desktop monitors, as far as I'm concerned. In the living room, with TVs, that's a different story. I have a +1000nit monitor and I had to dial it down to 700 because it was just to bright for continuous desktop usage. It hurt my eyes. The C1 is just perfect for me. If I ever change the C1 it will not be because of brightness, that's for sure. Just wait until you get 1500nit pick brightness blasting through your eyes from less than a meter away (~3 feet) for 8 hours straight... So, beware.
i dont understand why everyone says this. do as you please with what you bought, but eye strain isnt a long term problem, it literally just takes time away from your pc for your eyes to heal. i have kerataconus & light sensitivity issues with my eyes and ur tweaking if you think 1000 nits is a lot. go outside and look at a flower in the sunlight. 10000+ nits. yes obviously it is not the same but its a bad take. not to mention, brightness in hdr is necessary for resolving detail, otherwise you just rely on tonemapping way too much. oleds just do not get bright enough for a lot of hdr use cases. they are great for contrast but theyre not minileds.
@@wizarddMaybe, just maybe, the everyone you talk about, rather prefer avoid the pain in the first place, than have the need to take time away from their pc for their eyes to heal. Why should anyone experience eye pain if they can avoid it all together? Have you thought about that? You do realize that the OLEDs have infinite contrast, right? The pixels turn off literally. It's perfect black at pixel level. Minileds can't do that, it's contrast will always be finite. Brigthness becomes a factor in bright living rooms, with large windows. But, most regular people, with regular jobs do watch TV at night, right? So, is brightness really a concern at that point?
@@johnny_rook eye strain is unavoidable. thats not what i said. i said its temporary, its effectively a non issue. there is no way you're at 1000nits constantly anyway unless you play games all day long in hdr or watch movies all day long in hdr, its just a really weird take in my opinion. as i said, use it how you please, im just stating my thoughts and that i disagree. brightness is always an issue on oleds btw, especially in bright scenes with a lot of white. snowy mountains etc. dont know why you would neuter an already not optimal brightness/hdr experience
@@wizardd I wasn't saying that either. If I implied 1000nit constantly, I am sorry. My bad. What I was talking about was playing games at desktop, with explosions or flahsbang grenades; 1000 nit hurt my eyes. The pain I feel is only the sympton of a problem developed from years of gaming at desktop, short distances with large (+42") high brightness panels (I play 6-8h a day, sometimes more). Please, take care of your sight.
I feel like the colors are pretty accurate, as someone who works in photoshop and needs accurate colors. For more saturated setting Color Gamut to Native looks nice, but way more saturated than intended and isn't realistic. I also wish I was one of the people who could stand the brightness of these TVs. I've always had light sensitivity to bright lights and can only play in HDR for limited periods before my eyes hurt and get a headache. These TVs are blindingly bright.
I don't want more brightness personally (I always play in dark) but I do want metal heatsinks however. More peak brightness yes, but personally I'd only take the higher durability that comes with it, if that make sense.
I can 100% understand people complaining about the OLEDs on brightly lit rooms. In those cases, a mini QLED with a VA panel (for better contrast) and good local dimming might suit them better. At the time I bough my 42 C2, the QN95bs were the same price or even cheaper than my OLED but I chose the LG for the infinite contrast; fast forward a few months and my step father asked me which model did I buy so that he could get one for his living room. Knowing him and the room (it's directly beside a window), I recced the Samsung VA and discouraged him on the OLED, and in the end he fell in love with the Samsung: with 1300 bits, he even had to decrease the brightness. For my personal use, I game and watch movies in a room similar to yours, and couldn't stand opening the windows even when I didn't have a higher end TV. In this scenario, at night, I even use LG's panel dimming feature (lv.1) before sleep because, specially in auto hdr, the thing can get so bright as to disrupt my sleep cycle. During the day with the windows opened, though, even the 100 OLED brightness config isn't enough.
Man 😢 you looked very sad about your tv in this video and it broke my heart. Seeing your videos from start to finish (I’ve seen them all by now 😎) and it broke me to the core seeing you say out loud that your basically done fiddling with settings because youve realized nothing more can be done. Your an amazing human being and as long as you keep ok making content whice I REALLY hope you keep on doing, your going to be my TV HERO RU-vid account. My favorite youtuber 2023 award goes to you man. Please don’t stop making videos, I want a video of how saturated the image can get from 55-100% and see the forced saturation ”how it looks” it looks great on my cheap LCD, cannot look worse on an OLED. Also I am really hyped to get a LG C4 and finally get OLED black on the backlight effect and get BFI on 60fps gaming and 30fps 🥵 Keep on what you do, I love you man ❤️❤️❤️❤️
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 have you also heard that GSR and TPC can no longer be turned off in the service menu on LG C3 and G3 🥺 soo stupid how LG acts with there TVs sometimes I am thinking about buying C4 when that comes out 65” to not make it too expensive ofcourse 😂 we will have to see if it is better then the C3
I have a PS5 and C1. BFI on high does not increase motion resolution for any 30 fps game, there is no claim anywhere because it does not work. Tell me what games I’ll give it try.
I remember you comparing the c1 with a plasma and you said that oled was much brighter and it was burning your retina so you have turn down the brightness.. The problem with c1 is not brightness it is color volume... my plasma is less brighter than my c1 but the image is much better even if is dimmer than the oled
The G3 is almost twice as bright as your C1. It's a bright TV in any conditions. Even the C3 has a decent brightness bump over the C1. The colors are also good. Sure, they're not QD-OLED, but they aren't "garbage" either.
LCD tech can definitely get more full screen brightness, but contrast is the most important attribute of picture quality. We need more full screen brightness with perfect blacks
Its a trade off between FALD and OLED, with VA FALD being a bit more visually appealing to me than IPS. But if I just wanted visual clarity and distinction in colors I would go for infinite contrast over saturation any day of the week, except if I were actually comparing 2 screens, a loss in saturation is not normally noticeable after your eyes adjust. On top of the better motion clarity OLED is just king. Not that I will be getting rid of my display any time soon, it is a FALD but I am enjoying it still.
yeah, sad truth. I bought the LG C1 OLED for Motion Pro High, but my god on bright fullscreen scenes it is SO washed out and dim, even in a dark room. But MAN, the contrast and motion clarity is waaay too good to pass up. If there's a glossy OLED model with 240hz BFI and like 200 nits brightness fullscreen with BFI, it will be an automatic buy from me. Compared to my XG2431, I'd still MUCH rather have the OLED. Motion clarity and brightness aren't quite as good, but everything else about the C1 just dumpsters the XG2431. I had a 1440p VA panel before too, but that thing sucked when it came to motion clarity, but it was very bright for me (300 nits) and had great color saturation. Sadly, no matter how much money you put into these displays you will still need to compromise in one way or another.
I was thinking my CX was really colorful until I actually pulled up mu razer OLED laptoo next to it and the CX colors looked bleak in comparison. I measured it and the razer can do like 100%DCI P3 but the CX isn't even close. Maybe in a few years we can get that 100% rec 2020 1000nits panel of my dreams.
Yeah, ideally you need to have an OLED TV for a dark room (like a home theater setup) and an LCD TV in a normal brightness room. That's how you get the most of both technologies, play to their strengths and compensate for their weaknesses. Seems like there is no universal solution that can fit every environment as of now.
After owning the Sony A80J for more than a year, I would maybe like it to hit 1000nits and have better brightness processing in larger higher APL scenes and of course better motion. I think what I care about more is dimming issue in high APL scenes rather than peak brightness when looking at a display that can deliver around 1k nits personally. A 1500 or 2000 nit capable display with the same limitations is just not appealing at this point.
Higher Full screen brightness is what we need, I believe we're struggling with that due to power savings crap, basically trying to save the planet with expensive TVs
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 Well, I mean I also wouldn’t want to be using excessive energy just to have a more uniform higher brightness. It’s a limitation of material design for now. If they could only bring that 1000nit Sony BVM pro monitor oled brightness performance to larger sizes…
Hi Plasma 😄, is lg g3 leaning to 0.001? Because I heard some people tell me that lg g3 warm 50 feels colder then lg c2-c1. So i thought maybe they are the same but the magenta to green balance is different and you know that i like more colder picture. I wish we had on lg tvs choosing Warm setting like on recent rog qd oled monitor. You can choose there 6500k ,6400k and more. It would be easier for people but bad for business
The SDR Bt2020 trick gets you closer to the qd-oled colors. Why don’t you try that while raising peak brightness to high. The fine tune colors from there and let us know. It may not be accurate but colors will look to have more volume.
Im actually not in a completely dark room but i dont recommend bright rooms with sun light 😂 your absolutely right there. Im very happy with my c3 but i have the 42 inch one and i have no idar how to get the exact peek of the nits. If set the tv to HGIG and do Windows 11 HDR config. The cross disappeared at 790 nits is this correct? I thought the 42 inch had less peek brightness than the bigger versions. Please help.
Plasmas can have 24Hz single "strobing" for 24fps content. That's not great for gaming. The LG C1 has interpolation plus BFI to get 240fps like out of 30fps but the input lag is almost unusable
Yo plasma! So what if actually tried increasing hgig values above accurate settings. I do this with the PS5 instead of accurate settings 14 14 0 clicks. I’ll do 25 25 0 to bring up full screen brightness, doing this instead of hdr tone mapping because hgig is definite while hdr tone mapping is dynamic. Have you tested this?
That will make the Maxcll go beyond 800 and will give you clipping with HGIG. You can try Dynamic tone mapping Mastering Peak Maxcll 1000 and change the system level calibration to be 1000(not sure but it might be 18 clicks)
For me my 42 inch c3 would be bright enough but I often find that the ABL get trigger very easily in games with autoHDR that have relativy bright days. Its weird because in games that have good HDR implementation like elden ring or the witcher next gen I really dont notice ABL being trigger. I am doing something wrong? I have watch many of your other videos and I dont think you have mentioned ABL being a problem.
Hi ! 1) Does ABL only reduce brightness for white contents, or does it also reduce brightness for full-screen colors? According to Rtings, the color volume about S95C is excellent and is quite close to QN95C, but they don't specify whether it's mesured in full screen or not. 2) In HDR mode, does the ABL reduce the brightness of the entire screen (white and colors) or only white areas without affecting the colored areas? I have a QN90A 50 inch, I would like to change it in 2025 for a QD-OLED (S95E) to enjoy infinite contrast in HDR + great color volume, but the low peak brightness of whites (beyond a 10% windows) worries me, I suppose this problem will not be solved. I also specify that the 50 inch version of the QN90A has a lower peak brightness than the 55 inch and more (1000 nits 10/25/50% and 650 nits 100%) and the color volume is not as good than 55 inch and more
ABL affects everything but the colors won't look washed-out full screen, actually QDOLEDs look almost like plasmas when displaying full screen colors while being brighter
So you don't recommend me getting the new Kuro, which has never been out of the box, for €2000? Even though it has superior motion clarity and colors? I should stick with my C2?
I am just a few weeks into my LG OLED coming from a 15 yr old plasma. I gotta say its not as good as i was expecting. The Plasma still rocks with literally the only downside it being stuck at 1080p. I can only imagine how good a 4k plasma would have been today.
Hey Plasma , my current black level set to 49 with dtm to 2000 for system level calibration games nits and black stabilizer to 9. What is your recommendation on black level. In every game a do your method with secret override menu. Currently i like the night scenes with this settings , sometimes its even a little bit too dark but i like it, it is balanced in my opinion but i would like to hear your recommendation.😀🤝🏻
Hey Plasma, can you make settings for the c1 which improves the color red with a cold temperature? I tried quantums settings and although it improves the reds a lot, its on warm 50 and that makes the colors look flat. I tried increasing to a colder temp but that makes the reds look more blood orange.
The color volume for the lg g3 has increased compared to previous lg oleds thanks to MLA. The volume cannot match qdoled, however the blacks are more inky, ill take that trade off any day.
I think color volume is over rated. I have a u8k and an Acer xv275k which are some of the brightest displays with some of the best color volumes out there and my cx does perfectly fine with the vibrancy of the colors in comparison at default settings.
Hi Plasma, i wanted to ask . When will make a video about iphone white balance man ? Can you at least share them with me please here in the comments. I would really appreciate that Plasma. In all regards thank you 💪🏻
Still the best black levels in the game. QD OLED/MLA OLED both become slightly illumintated via ambient light.... where as traditional WRGB OLED is a damn black hole of contrast....
I have g2 for about 2 weeks and Brightness is very disappointing! My room is bright. from the 1st hour I wonder if I should return it? I tried all kinds of settings and the improvement is minimal. I still have 2 weeks until my return deadline. in general, I had my sights set on the qn90c, but the g2 had fed up with it at a very good price, and I pushed myself.
@@JakeOver9000 of course my 1st choice was samsung QN90C, but the price is Higher than G2 . I picked G2 because of good discount! Few of my friends vote for Oled TV and the end i regret! In some way i started to adapt to a dark picture but, for movie player from Pc is a nightmare! Super annoying shutter in 24p movie.
@@3gpabkovalchev522 Are you on 120hz with Real Cinema 5:5 pulldown enabled? I think even then panning shots might still be a stutter problem for some, they use low levels of interpolation to combat that.
I bought the QN90C 2 weeks ago and it is absolutely mind blowing. Perfect blacks, 0 blooming due to the ultimate local dimming introduced only in the 2023 models and up, complete control over the dynamic tone mapping, perfect HGIG with the Xbox seriesX,16 bits color gamut floating point, amazing peak brightness, amazing HDR, control over shadow details which gives you even more contrast,etc.,all this makes for an amazing TV and it amaze me how people are still thinking we are in 2018 and the only thing they talk about around are the overated OLEDs panels which don't make any difference nowadays with a high end mini led monster so it is for a good reason it was more expensive than the G2.
Tbh I own the G3 and Qn90b and the G3 is brighter since it does not have to compensate blooming with local dimming and dimming down parts of the image. If you take a look at KGs stream where he had the G3,C3, S95c and qn90b next to it you can see that it is indeed brighter there as well
According to HDTVTest the best Panasonic OLEDs have superior motion resolution with BFI engaged. Their BFI doesn't darken the image and doesn't produce any flickering. On my C2 BFI is horrible on both counts. The Panasonic OLEDs have even better motion resolution than plasmas with BFI. Look up his reviews and comparisons. Panasonic also has better colors than LG. What's your opinion on this?
WRGB OLEDS with 120 PWM (called OLED Motion Pro High) have significantly better motion clarity than any Plasma without annoying flickering. The C2 supports 60bfi
S90C has more luminance with colors. C3 has better blacks. S90C is brighter and has higher risk of burn in. C3 has Dolby Vision and better OS. Also bear in mind samsung has history of "cheating" in benchmarks by temporarily boosting tv performance and also dimming brightness afterwards with firmware updates.
Mini Led Televisions with local dimming is the best of both worlds right now because of the insanely high full screen brightness and deep near oled level blacks…….. There’s very good mini led sets now where they literally disable the backlights with the zones where it’s as black as oled to the naked eye
It's true i have both QN90b from SAMSUNG and TCL C835 and they are great !! i planned to keep mini led technology until they figure brightness and burn in in OLEDS
Nah, still way too much blooming, viewing angles still aren't as good, and while the black levels have gotten better, it still pales in comparison side by side with a Starfield on the screen. I own a QN900B 8K, and it's a beast, yet it nowhere near my A95L QD-Oled for color depth and black levels and infinite contrast...
But the pixel response is so janky for gaming, the blooming gets on my tits, if they could combine it with a dual-cell and full RGB miniLED backlight with hardware strobing and HDR-BFI, it could well compete with OLED for gaming, they could even use a motion shutter to cycle between the two IPS cells to help negate the poor pixel response of LCD.
I beg tv reviewers to give more attention to motion clarity and BFI with the hope it will send a message to manufacturers. But no one seems to care…they only focus on nits.
Hi,please can you help to configure the lg c2 for ps5 (warzone) for the highest fps and lowest response time,i have watch all your videos but i cant find the best setting. Thanks for your support
Turn off VRR and use the 120fps mode for the best input lag, also the controller settings are very important and I don't know about that. I'd recommend you to ask @DanielZH
I don't understand how you say you need to turn off all of the lights to 'see anything' my LG c3 at 100% brightness is bright enough to make me notice the floaters in my eyes which I wish I could ged rid of :( Also, I'm a creative professional, what does colour saturation really mean in terms of these display technologies? The C3 out of the box came over saturated and I through all my settings had to REDUCE the saturation and other settings to make it more accurate for my creative workflows. Is it as simple as, plasma TV at 120% saturation is MORE saturated than OLED tv at 120% saturation? Or is it like, if both were set up to be 'accurate' then the plasma would be somehow more saturated? (That does not sound intuitively possible to me) Also where can I have a look at a plasma display? As a photographer and filmmaker I'd love to experience that if what you say is true. The LG C3 is already the most saturated and contrasty display I've ever seen in my life.
Out of the box, Vivid mode doesn't have a higher color saturatio, it just has the colors pushed outwards to saturate colors that are not supposed to be saturated.
@@plasmatvforgaming9648Thanks that helped me understand how that works. Does any setting control how saturated the most saturated colour is? Colour Gamut? Or not even that.
After using a C1 as a monitor for two years I can say anything brighter will burn your eyes and cause problems with your sight. If you’re going to use it as a tv brighter is an option but as a monitor we better be able to sue if this tech messes our eyes up.
I wish I would have done that two years ago. Do I have to change that every time I game or is that just for the desktop? Thanks for responding so fast.@@plasmatvforgaming9648
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 Great minds man. Most monitors have matte finish for office work, but I remember getting an IPS glossy panel during my teenage years and getting so wowed by the colors and contrast vs. the matte finish of most other monitors that I wondered why it's such a common choice for other niches.
Yeah, OLEDs are meant to be used in a dark room, plain and simple - if you are not doing that, you are not using the TV correctly. Use HGiG and that's it - DTM will look like crap, IDK why this has to be so hard honestly. Either stick with accurate settings and enjoy or go crazy with vivid nonsense... really up to each individual.
Bro... Why my c1 APS mode gone when i update.. its gone when i using hdmi cable, but when i unplug hdmi, i can access to APS mode in the picture settings 😅 before this i dont hv this kind of problem 😅
I disagree on this one. Yes, it could be better, like everything in life. But whenever I ask my GF, she thinks the tv looks amazing. Unless you have lots of sunlight in the room it's not a problem at all. I usually use the tv at 35% brightness, so that says everything you need to know.
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 Ok, I don't use HDR, in SDR with BT2020 the colors are very saturated. HDR seems too desaturated to me, no matter how much I tune it.
Love your videos but you are wrong on this one. Colors are not supposed to be super vibrant, that is called over saturation. I dont know how many times I go to someones house and they have their tv's set to terrible over saturation. At first when you get off of these vibrancy modes, and in to a more natural range, it does look "bad" but only at first. Once you learn and really compare the image, you realize how awful High saturation color really is.
You need to step away from the grasp of OLED and start giving high-end QLED a try. You're obviously not the type to allow professional reviewers to dictate what you do and do not like ; so you need to understand that for the average everyday consumer QLED absolutely destroys OLED. You'll get better motion handling, far better color gaumet/ color volume coverage, so much better peak brightness aka better HDR experience, you don't have to worry about burn in and black level is visually almost identical to OLED most of the time. If you make a list of pros and cons, QLED vs OLED there is a clear winner. I made the switch and I will never go back. The superior color production is so massive that it alone makes the switch worth it. HDR on a QLED is a completely different experience than it is on OLED -might as well be a different format altogether. You're wasting your time on the wrong tech.
@@Viylari TCL QM8 but preferably the Hisense U8K (Make sure it's the K model not the H). The Samsung QN90C is also good but it's a hell of a lot more expensive and you don't really get anything extra for that money that the other two can't do.
look up Hdtv for ps5 settings first. For better motion on lgc1. 30fps Dejudder 10 and bfi medium. For 60fps and 120fps deblur 10 and bfi on High. I dont use deblur, and its motion clarity is still vastly improving. For sdr games, he has lots of videos explaining how to get a brighter picture with bfi, and for hdr games, I just turn the brightness up a little in game settings. There's not much to it. You either leave vrr on or turn it off to use a bfi setting. Pc mode won't let you use deblur or dejudder.. I forgot to mention.
