Great tips. I bought 100 weight thread but have been afraid to use, thinking it would not be strong enough for quilting. I like the idea of creating visible texture, while minimizing the appearance of thread, in some places.
What would be useful is a video about how to set up your machine to use different threads. I have been struggling with continuous thread breaks trying to use microquilter on a computerized longarm. When I say constant, I mean I MIGHT get 3 minutes of sewing before the next break. That is on a good run. Information about tension settings, what bobbin thread etc would be more useful for me.
Not much of a quilter here. Mostly garment sewing. I know this sounds crazy but I used Superior's silk thread in a serger on a satin faced organza wedding gown. The fray was incredibly bad and something had to be done. Pinking and zig-zag not working. So, I slowed WAY down and to my amazement, it worked! After that experience I've started building my stock of Superior's silk threads and experimenting more with different threads and techniques. No more fray and thread is so fine it's like it melted into the fabric.
Thank you so much for this video! You confirmed something I thought I heard about using silk thread for EPP. I picked up some of your silk thread for EPP at a quilt show even though I was uncertain. Then after I got it home & used it, I didn't know if mixing fibers was OK. The quilt I'm using it on is not going to be washed so I went ahead & kept sewing with it. I love that ot is thin and strong and it does dissappear nicely. I'm glad that you have confirmed the recommendation. I'm also excited to hear it can be used for thread painting. BTW I bought that same purple thread & it is gorgeous!
This is good information on lighter weight threads, but like someone else said, it would be nice to get some tips for machine setup. Both domestic and longarm. I have been trying Bottom Line in my longarm bobbins and really struggle with it, so I was hoping to get some tips for winding your own bobbins.
This is really interesting as I feel I know so little about thread, but many of the quilters in our guild say NEVER use polyester thread in all-cotton quilts since it will melt when it is ironed or goes through the dryer. Is this one of the old wives tales, a sales ploy for some companies, or depends upon the company and quality of the polyester thread?
I made a mess of a garment sewing project after the polyester thread that I used to serge the edge of some cotton melted when I pressed it. So not an expert reply, just first hand experience. I still do machine piecing with polyester (Gutermann mostly) but am moving toward cotton because I also do a lot of hand piecing, and I definitely find cotton thread better to work with.
I have used both cotton and polyester thread in many many quilts with no issues either with melting at the iron or in the dryer. And I wash almost all of my quilts as they are made for using. Older poor quality polyester or maybe a super hot iron (though I keep mine on the hottest setting most of the time with no issues) might damage it but it hasn’t been my experience. I also make garments and crafts and do a lot of ironing. High quality cotton is wonderful and on heirloom projects I might use it exclusively just to say it’s 100% cotton. One caveat to all that, if you are making something you would microwave (I make potholder bowl cozies), you should use 100% cotton for that. Don’t want that potholder causing trouble in a microwave!
I would love to use different threads such as the Kimono on my Qnique 15 pro midarm machine - I"m on a Cutie frame also . Question... what weight do you suggest putting in the bobbin? Do the weights need to match?
