Timing Chain Alignment Procedure Easy LY7 (SV6) (HFV6) 

By far the best explanation on tha tube I’ve seen cheers🇦🇺

Thank you APV. I had to be called in to assist a backyard mech who agreed to replace bad timing chains on my daughters Chevy Travers 3.6 L V-6 engine. The Mech was completely flummoxed about the install after he started turning the crank and cams and could not get back to installation order & TDC. Your Holden directions allowed me to install the chains in one go. Of course I had to go through resetting the engine to top dead center and having my daughter order the cam retainers beforehand to make the job easier and those cams love to flop over with annoying consistency without the retainers. One point you should remind your viewers who are backyard mechs is that in order to get back to TDC it is best to have a screw-in whistle tool and another fellow to turn the crank shaft while you watch the cams and flip them to the the right position as you get back to TDC to ensure there will be no damaged valves. IF the one cranking on the shaft encounters resistance then he stops and you attempt to move the cams into place. Once you have turned your crank shaft up to TDC and are hearing or sensing the piston blowing out air you are sure that all valves on piston one are closed and you are coming up to TDC. Once you have the cams back in order and retained with the retaining tools it is a simpler job to set in the chains. Another point is that if you don't get a replacement chain set with well marked indicator links it is so important to paint up or mark all the links as well as the engine gears to align everything with ease. The Back yard mech had done none of this which helped confuse and frustrate him even more. Following the Aussie Holden method I was able to install the chains in one go and the engine started on the first try. There are issues with this engine and it was apparent that my daughter was horrible with monitoring the oil level with this model as she had never encountered an engine that blew our so much oil in such a short time on a regular basis causing engine oil to be consistently low. I have, after finishing up the install added additives to clean out the engine and will dump the oil after a short while hoping that the gunk will mostly be cleared out. Reassembly of this engine in the engine bay is no joke and you have to have the proper tools and a knowledge base and/or watch numerous videos before attempting the job. It is always best to take photos while during disassembly and invest in the repair manual that you can get online or at the auto parts store. Please don't waste time trying to follow the other methods on RU-vid as this is the best method. Again, thank you.

Careful here! Left and right on a north south engine is viewed from the rear normally. So based on the picture and the discussion of fitment of the cam retainer tools he mentions this one to the right, his right on the picture is actually the left bank of the engine. This may cause confusion with some maintenance documents. The diagram text is technically correct. I personally would never do the "two step" procedure.

Thanks for the tip! Way easier than the other method. Got it done right the first time!

worked perfect. but be advised, if you replace the high pressure fuel pump, GET IT FROM THE DEALER! I didn't, 3 months later I'm doing it again because the after market pump I put in failed. so if you replace it, get it from the dealer. this is the best chain replacement guild out there. worked first time. well....2 times and an extra 800 bucks

Makes sense because it's all in working position to begin with 😎👍

Thank you for that information I've always done it the old way

man if i could give you a super thanks i would.. thanks for the life save mate!!!

I did it on the first dot with cylinder number one at top dead center with the Cam alignment tools and it worked out but this is also good information thanks

A great video! Top notch! Thanks kindly!

A life saving video. . . .

I'm doing mine now, I've followed melling timing video. 5 o'clock on the oil pump. melling have the cam holders the other way around. Flat/right. Offset/left

Excellent. Thank you very much 😷

This makes sense bc if the chains come off in time the engine has to be in time I’ll do it this way also

excellen video !! i have prblem tu put in time mu cadillac srx 2010 . i going to try this method but my queetion is the cilinder number 1 need to be in TDC? thanks for your help

Texas...USA in the comments here....just finished up one of these today in a 2010 GMC Acadia SUV.....by far the worst design of a motor by GM ever.....don't know how the Holdin setup is but I'll never do another one of these for anyone ever...... The shop book calls for 11.5 hours and it's every bit of that maybe a bit more if you leave the motor in the car...... What it should say is prepare yourself for the most nerve racking 11.5 hours of your life and you should have a coupon for a free case of beer after each one of these that are done........ Thanks GM design department for making my Saturday suck😅😅

Been doing it like this for years, it can't go out of alignment if you never turn the motor over halfway through. Some people still don't get it though

Tell me what dealership provides the software adjustment...because i cant find one who will agree to do it without redoing the chains themselves.

SET TIMING THE SAME AS BLOGS AND RU-vid VIDEOS AND STUMBLE ACCROSS YOU VIDEO IM IN THE US ,BUT AFTER INSTALLING ALL CHAINS AT THE 8 O'CLOCK POSITION ONLY WHAT WAS THE END RESULT ON PERFORMANCE CHANGE

You know why camshaft lock tools were invented and used ALWAYS in doing this job? & those two seperate stage timing marks exist on the oil pump? Well they were not for shits & giggles, they were designed and marked for when timing is out, ie one, two or all chains skip links as mine skipped 3 on the primary lower chain. How the hell do you know where to start if your engine has suffered this issue as most do hence why we are doing this job in the first place. You need to go back to square one, start from scratch and you need the tools and you need both marks to accomplish this - and despite what anyone says, it ain't rocket science. So you feel the 1st stage timing mark and the 2nd stage timing mark intentionally put on the oil pump for timing the engine correctly (separately) eliminating misses and incorrect timing is made redundant just by doing it off one mark? Sorry, but NO! Incidentally, I did mine the correct way, GM's way by their book not by what some grease monkey might say or offer for taking money from him. Yes, I did it via the GM manual and I used the cam tools to ensure the cams were absolutely right (as I said it was out 3 links) - I did not want to get it wrong and have to go back in there, let alone deal with bent valves, kicking a leg out of bed etc - do you?. Do it the way the GM engineers designed it, the right way, set up stage 1 timing (around to the 5 o clock position right side on the oil pump flats on the back of the cams up), put the left and primary chain on, then rotate the crank set up stage 2 timing (around to the 8 o clock position left side on the oil pump again flats on the cams facing up - you reverse the cam tools as you switch timing setup) and fit the right timing chain, lining up all the marks and torquing everything releasing the tensioner pins etc. Remember looking at the engine front on rather than behind in the drivers side, the left side is the right bank and the right bank is the left bank - see, so simple a child could understand it. I did it this week end by the way, and my car runs like a dream, so I know my method, or rather General Motors method works, no misses no revisits in side and more importantly - no engine damage. If someone is too thick, and sorry that's what it is to understand simple stage 1 & 2 timing on an Alloytec, please pass it on to get the dealer to do it and wear the $3,000 + expense. THOSE TWO MARKS ON THE OIL PUMP ARE THERE FOR A GOD DAMN REASON - I ASSURE ALL OF YOU. REMEMBER IF THAT ENGINE HAS SKIPPED SOME LINKS - WHERE TO BEGIN? = Start from scratch !

Ill try this shit next time i bother an if it doesnt work otherwise every time I've done them is to stage timing though theirs no easy way about it.

I have searched and can't find a reason for the 1st and 2 stage timing? The links line up whether or not you rotate the crank to the 2nd stage or not. What is the purpose of rotating the crank just to install the 3rd chain? Why did the 2 stage procedure cause you issues? I keep having P0009 after doing my chains 3 times now.

As you are looking at it from the Cabin or the engine itself right and left?

dumb question.. but which cylinder is tdc when in stage 2 ?

We have done everything you have said. Both ways don't work 😢

Could I do this on a 2008 gmc acadia 3.6

Bonjour je ne pas bien compris parce que explication ce en anglais

That's a load of baloney mate my mechanic done at your way and when he fired it upwasbang bang on either side and I turned it off and that was the end

What malakia

What idiot bloody company designs an engine with such ridiculously small stretch tolerance, on an engine with an already overly complicated chain layout. 0.1 of a millimetre is ludicrous, and as Holden rightly observed is smaller than normal operating variations of the running chain when the engine is turning over. So why do it. My theory is that the engine was developed way too fast, and by people with very little practical mechanical knowledge, or understanding of how stupid this is, or maybe even no common sense at all. Cough*University Graduates