New to RC Racing? Not sure how a dirt setup differs from a carpet setup? Then this poorly made confusing video is for you! For those who asked about the shirt, it says "A penny for your thoughts seems a little pricey."
I looked for a video such as this just over a year ago and I have been out of the hobby since, so glad you posted it so thanks for sharing. I only have a very basic car at the moment but I can buy hop ups to tune the setup. Very interesting video, I will watch it a few time
Thanks for the feedback. I have a few more ideas in mind similar to this one. Too busy flying and racing to create new content right now. I will though.
I just watched this, very excellent info for understanding all the technical details that help with handling and set up. Thanks hope to see more of your vids🏁
best video ever !!! better than all the videos from all the proracer's and factory team's.... very help me understanding about setting up my RC car ..greets from Germany, thank you !!!
You made a great video here! It’s been a while since I raced and that’s a lot of the information I was looking for! Very nicely done explaining and dumbing it down just enough haha
This is perfect timing! I just bought a used SCT that was set up for carpet and I will be running it on clay. Now to just figure out what needs to be changed. Thank you.
@@trevorfurlotte Wish I could but it came with a weighted front end and back end. Even the steering geometry has been changed. Sway bar in rear too. Its all good tho, I don't mind a challenge.
great video, l don't run on carpet but l do run on grass with some dirt depending on conditions at the time. l have a few SC10.5's and find them to be awesome but l keep getting the urge to buy the SC6.2. Your videos have been helpful, so far l'm sticking to my guns with the trusty SC10, l just picked up a third one the other day lol. Thank you. Cheers from the land down under.
Raise you inner camber arms, lower the control arm pins, softer rear springs, lighter weight oil in rear shocks, adjust servo speed in radio for slightly slower acceleration.
Wish I knew all this information for dirt setups back in the early 90s racing a RC10T. Back then you slapped the car together and threw it out on the track. Got your setup info from RC Car Action or you got the "Speed Secrets" which were just that, A Secret. Or you got some bad gouge from other racers like "Hold your truck down and loosen the slipper till it slips a lot" or "Hold the rear wheels and tighten the slipper till the car wheelies." Or the Hobby shop owner told you something like he "just talked to Cliff Lett...." just to sell his full price inventory.
So, I have a T6.2 and am struggling to get under 20mm ride hight without totally backing off the spring preload collars. What springs would you recommend to replace mine with in order to go lower without sacrificing the spring rate to prevent the chassis from slapping on and off of the jumps?
Great video. I am running a at a carpet this weekend and this is going to help out a lot. I did notice the rear shocks were forward for carpet and in the rear for dirt. I read that is best. I don’t think I heard you talk about that. Is that a must too for carpet? Also, do the front shocks stay in the rear? Thank you
Thanks for the video. Do you know if people limit shock travel, how for the shocks can extend out? I race on carpet and notice a lot of guys cars look like when jumping the suspension arms don’t drop down very far. It is hard to tell for sure though.
Great video but you missed a few of your differences, possibly because they make less difference... Your camber links are longer on the carpet car -using the inner-most ball stud mounts. That gives more camber under compression for the dirt for grip -right?, and the longer links reduces traction roll with less camber on the carpet. You've also got stabiliser bars on the carpet car.
Great video !! Subbed !!! I run a SC6.1 on high grip carpet , I feel the truck is pretty dialed in ( after 2 years of test and tune ) , but recently have been thinking of switching to hard arms / chassis side rails . Am I going to see a huge difference and / or wreck my current setup ??? Also would love to hear you explain in a vid of anti squat tuning !!! Also, what / where is that battery top plate ? Looks like you can push the battery even farther than the stock AE . Thank you .
Switching to hard arms and rails will be noticeable but not so much that it causes a distraction. Look into carbon parts instead of hard though. As for the battery brace, no idea. It came on a used B6 I picked up along the way
I was going to comment similarly, noticed that your carpet car has a sway bar but dirt doesn't. Would removing the sway bar help increase corner traction and straight-line bump absorbing on a bumpy track?
Is there any reason that prevents, instead of removing mechanical grip from the front axle to generate more understeer on the carpet car, to use narrower front tires and thus reducing front grip AND front rolling resistance? 17:10
@@trevorfurlotte nice . They really don’t want us to know what fits the original. I’m not ready to buy a new 2wd buggy yet. Just got a new t6.2 and the b74.2 is on the way
I was probably referring to high bite clay. Those setups are in between carpet and loose dirt. They require less rear weight bias than loose dirt but more rear weight bias than carpet. The gearbox configurations for AE kits are 3 or 4 gear standup, layback and laydown. A high bite clay track would use a layback gearbox. Tires would be a bar style or even slicks with some sort of traction compound applied. The track surface is sealed to pin tires slip over the surface rather than bite into it. So in short, clay tracks use layback gear box and different tires compared to dirt or carpet. Hope this helps.
@@trevorfurlotte I would approximate it to have less grip than carpet for sure. Possibly similar to a high bite dirt track or mild clay, IDK. Obviously fewer jumps, too. The main thing I'd like to avoid is breaking rear traction which then leads into unrecoverable fishtailing and then even worse would be catching on the tire while sideways and flipping. Any insights with those parameters in mind?
@Drunken_Hamster tires, shock oil and sway bars are key. Not stiff enough rolls too much and rolls over. Too stiff, doesn't roll enough and rolls over. Would require trial and error. Personally, I'd never try and turn an off road truck into a basher of any kind. Sounds like a money pit. I'm too OCD. If I wanted to run on the street I'd run an on road car and not try and turn a truck into a car. Make sense?
That's the thing about tires, specific tire for a specific surface. Here on what we run on Proline hole shots or JC DDs work best. Your millage may vary.
@trevorfurlotte Thanks, I'm driving a team associated car that I bought used, and I have made zero changes. But it seems to handle pretty well, actually. The only thing I've changed is adding slicks, I put on some smoothie 2 silvers, and that was a massive difference. It sticks to the track like velcro with them .
@@Fly2kill1 the kit does come with a ball diff and layback. If it was me, Id shift the weight bias as far forward as possible and go with an even stiffer suspension package than i run on carpet.
