I drive a 2012 with 184k miles. I've done everything the maintenence minder has told me to and the only mechanical failures have been a seized rear caliper (gotta love the salt belt) and the serpentine belt tensioner. The car is not great at anything but good at everything and better than any of the six GMs I've owned, hands down!
Did they replace your tensioner because of a rattling on acceleration.or in gear at a light. Cuz if so. You got ripped off, the fix for that is a new belt. As they get older they wear down and stretch and the tensioner makes a rattle noise when u accelerate! Attempting to adjust it self every revolution of the belt….
As a mechanic, service advisor and salesman at a Honda Dealership for almost 7 years, I have never seen these issues with this cr-v’s generation. Maybe in the US they had different problems. If you live in Canada watch out for the rear brakes seasing, drivingshaft, noisy vtc when starting, batteries and make sure every updates have been done.
My 2012 Honda Crv with over 140k miles on it. It shutters when I drive 65 mph. I tried shutter fix and it temporarily fixed the problem for a few months.
What is the deal with the actuator?! I've replaced mine with supposed updated part and the timing chain. Still making the same rattling noise😟 2013 awd with 135k
@@YAHsharal12 same problem here. Just replaced actuator and timing belts cost me around 2k. Now it is making loud grinding noise. Thinking it's the starter motor? Need to sell this thing.
I own a 2016 CRV EXL with 41k miles, so far no issues. All i done so far are oil changes, filters and brakes. But i drive about 9k miles a year. Longest drive in 1 week was about 1000 miles while on vacation and i did not experience any issues
While i own a CRV 2016 exl, i also own a 2011 Acura MDX, maybe a gas guzzler but the drivetrain and the ride are excellent for a 100k mile car. My CRV does shake a lot and the suspension is not the best but we bought it because is frugal on the gas consumption. I love the SHAWD system acura has for all their cars.
Thank you. I have a 2015 CRV. 104,000 miles. Ac went a couple of years ago. Have cvt trans, no problems so far. No oil leaks. Idle shakes car. But not huge problem. Can change radiator brackets if it gets worse. Overall, a great car. Perfect size, very comfortable to drive. See how long I can keep it.
I have a 2016 Honda CR-V with transmission problems as mentioned in this video. My daughter's 2017 Honda Civic presents A/C problems exactly as mentioned. Thank you for sharing.
I'm hearing several complaints about the starter in 2014 CR-V failing. I am having to pay almost $800 bucks to have it replaced as I write. Possibly your team could look into this a this is a really hit to the finances. Thanks and lived the videos.
2014 CRV 132,000 miles. No problems like the 5 mentioned. The only problems were 1) brief VVT noise on start up in cold mornings lasting 1 to 3 seconds. 2)”check fuel cap” warning repeatedly starting 30k to 75k miles before I found the fix. It wasn’t the fuel cap. It was the $40 Canister Purge Solonoid. It’s about 2” long part and it’s in the driver side of the engine. 3)cheap battery. I replace the battery every 2 years no matter what. I don’t want to be stranded
There is a video describing some battery drainers, one the AC clutch relay and the other the VSA switch. You can diagnose this with a good volt/ammeter but if you have a good mechanic, he can help to verify this isn’t your battery killer. I have consistently found that WalMart Everstart Max batteries have good warning properties, that is, they weaken and you can tell, before they just throw the bit.
I have a 2012 honda crv ex-l (~106+ K miles) and i love my car. 12 years and still driving smoothly, hopefully it keeps at it until I get a better job!!
This video was on my home page this morning and I decided to see what the issues were. Scarily My Red Basque Pearl 2016 Honda CRV EX AWD purchased with 65k. That I have owned just shy of a year and put less than 1k miles on it; I can say I have had none of these issues, and plan to purchase a 2017-2019 Honda CRV EX, LTD, TOUR AWD. As a family who has owned 5 Honda's - 95' Civic EX, 09 , 11, 16 CRV and 2018 H-RV have enjoyed ownership without major issues. Knock on wood and kiss the Rosary.
I got a 2013 CRV (Japanesse) with an R20 engine. The only issue I have had was the engine mounts which are pretty weak and all go bad in a short time. Engine still tends to shake a bit at idle in drive after replacement and all the forums indicate this is the general experience since the engine idles low. I've also notice that the R20 engine does not have the front engine mount compared to the K20/24 so maybe this might be a design problem. Flushing and replacing the transmission oil filter will stop the harsh gear shifts. Make sure the replace the FILTER!!!
We have a 2013 with 226k miles on it. Compressor started making a weird noise a couple of months ago and replaced it. Other than struts and brakes, we’ve only noticed that the transmission shudders when accelerating between 1st and 2nd gear in low rpm’s. I’ve heard it just needs a programming update and to fix. At this point I’m just riding it out until we pull the trigger on a newer Honda next year.
Hi... my Fiance has a 2014 Honda CR-V and also has the same Shudder issue between 1st and 2nd gear.. I've noticed it close to around 1500 RMS's also. What was it that you had actually heard and from who? I tried the little red tube of Shudder Fixx, which fixed the issue for about 25 miles of her stop and go driving, but came back. Thank You for sharing this issue!
I have a 2015 Honda CRV with 57K miles, all the dash lights have been coming on and off. It started when the temperature dropped. It’s pretty frustrating. Will be bringing it into Honda in the next few days.
Oh boy; and I just purchased a CRV- EX L. I had an '05 CRV, but it was totaled. So I got another one, because I really like this vehicle. Thanks so much for your information. Things I will be checking out at times. Again thanks for posting.
If you don't want any problem then don't own any cars. Doesn't matter who make it, there is always going to be problem if you keep it long enough. If you keep it forever then you will see all types of problems as time goes by. I think parts companies are making less reliable parts so they can sell more parts though. I purchased a 2015 Honda Crv which 22k miles on it back in 2017 and now it has 80k miles on it. I change the oil every 5k miles, transmission fluid and rear deferential fluid every 30k miles. I replace rear brake pads, new tires, new battery, and just now the drivers seat switch to move back doesn't work. So got that to look forward to work on. All the other problems this video mentioned I don't see it. I think it is how you drive and whether you do the recommend fluid changed at the right intervals will help make it last longer. Everything is bound to fail eventually, just a matter of time.
I have a 2012 my daughter bought it new and I got it whit 116000 miles on it the only problem I see is whit the noise when started other than that i'm ok whit the crv great mileage
Our 2014 is making the same noise at first ignition/cold start. There is a service bulletin about the actuator. Replacing it only temporarily fixes the problem. It will return. Honda knows, but won't issue a recall. Our mechanic said to monitor it and maintain oil changes/ flush oil every 30k. Otherwise it drives fine. 47k miles and counting.
Saw another comment said regular oil changes and ensuring the crankcase is full stopped this VVT gizmo from rattling on him. This seems to be mor a feature than a bug but the video I saw of this noise, it’s a little unnerving. The Ford 5.4 v8 had a similar thing but it was not as loud, it was a feature for sure.
The problem is VT TC ACTUATOR and honda know about this issue and if you change it some people said is coming back again later the noise. Nothing to do to be honest..it is a engineering problem from manufacturing company and like I said earlier they know about it.
I just bought a 2016 with 42000 on the clock. Can’t be worse than my bmw 5 series. Although I loved that car. Just keeping up with it was too much. Hopefully this crv will serve me better.
I nearly fainted when you said AC compressor. I did that on my 2008 and almost had to sell one of my kidneys to afford it. I have a 2016 and figured that was an issue with that older (2007-2011) gen only. I pray that I don't have that repair bill again.
Cana you took your 08 to the dealer. If you did I bet he quoted 3 thousand for the job. The dealer Service advisor did that to me after paying 300 for the diagnosis. The Advisor didn't realize that I went to school for that or that I worked in a shop. I found 2 leaks that the mechanic didn't and I fixed the problem myself for 700. The ac clutch was bad. Most of the cost was the compressor and condenser. Replaced all the gaskets and the Schraders which were leaking. The time it took me was less than billable time quoted. I was so mad that I almost got into auto repair as a side hustle. Service Advisor always talk down to customers because they think we're stupid. The advisor did apologize when I took the CRV back for an oil change
We went from a 2006 Accord to the 2016 CRV ex. First thing we noticed was the horn. Lol. The accord horn sounded great. The CRV had the little meep meep mortorcycle horn. Embarrassing. People would laugh when you honked it. I looked around and found there is an aftermarket horn set to replace it. Now it sounds tougher than the accord.
VTC actuator should be a recall item and is not. Also the alternator not charging the battery and making the battery go dead. Are way bigger problems than those.
I just bought a ‘14 EX-L w/ 161k miles and when i accelerate, it struggles to go but then does (the engine becomes loud). Not sure if its transmission issues or not. But still an enjoyable and reliable car!
Have a 16 CRV Touring with 156,000 miles. Unexpected repairs was a seized water pump, rear wheel bearing, and a rear door seal that caused the door to rust out and the door needed replacement. Otherwise it’s been normal maintenance by the dealer
Yeah. That vtc actuator. It's a B. Mine eventually failed 1.5 years after noise started at like 160,000. Replaced it myself (took 2 hours) 5 months later, noise started again, it has been 1 year, hoping to flip it before it completely poops out
Still a baby. Almost any car on the market today can be expected to cruise to 100,000-150,000 miles without a problem. I have a 2004 Honda Civic with 350,000 miles on it and the only things I ever done to it outside of oil changes and other scheduled maintenance is replace the struts.
I have a 2015 with 67000 miles and transmission is acting up.feels like it’s skipping the first gear and now when stop at the lights sometimes it stalls.
I have a 2005 CRV with 140k. I have test driven three 2012-2014 CRV with thought of upgrading to newer model. The 4th gen has less road noise, but the handling&suspension, interior space, ground clearance, instrumentation, body build quality and interior seat quality all favor the 2005. My Honda mechanic says possibly the best CRV ever is the 2010-2011 but it looks very feminine, almost like a PT cruiser. No thanks.
I am experiencing vibrations when I come to a stop at a light and put on break. I put in neutral and it stops. I also noticed sluggish when accelerating cleaned fuel injectors, $137 a little bit better.
If I may add a SIXTH problem.....the tiny battery. My Wife & I have a '16, with 32k miles and have had to change the battery twice already. I took it for a day trip to Gettysburg(2 hrs from my home) and it died on me at a rest stop. Had AAA come out and the driver straight up said "are you sure this battery is correct? It looks like it should be on a lawnmower, not a SUV." Ugh, here's hoping I get longer than a few months out of the new one.
Replace to a larger battery. one with good CCA (cold cranking amps) Thankfully, the previous owner on my 2016 did that. Honda put in a tiny "good enough" battery to bring the weight down on the vehicle/improve fuel efficiency.
I had an 86 accord that ate batteries like every 6 months. They were like 40 bucks back then..so it was mainly the inconvenience. Took it to pep boys expecting a starter and they found a loose wire to the starter. Connected it properly and it quit eating batteries. No charge. It may not be the batteries that are the problem
Next time you need a battery, think about upgrading to the Odyssey size and holder. You'll also need a longer generic grounding cable from an auto parts store and it's a tight fit, but it is worth it in terms of longevity and lack of low voltage issues.
2012 w 160k. None of these problems yet. The jack shaft/ intermediate shaft bearing I’m sure needs to be replaced. Makes sometimes high pitched sometimes low foghorn sound after it rains and I can feel it shake when under low load acceleration and heavy braking. Idk if the bearing inside the mount is sold separate or I need to get the whole shaft
Be good to tell us what year you’re demonstrating. The 15 has a cvt unlike the previous years having the conventional 5 speed automatic. No mention of the rattle at start up being the actuator?
I have a 2013 2.4 automatic petrol model. I find that in the first couple of minutes after starting, I get a strong judder if I go up a hill in 1st gear, such as when approaching a red traffic light. It only seems to do it when the engine is cold, and more so in cold weather. Any ideas?
The top 5 problems you mentioned occurs on most vehicles in general. Seem like someone is just lazy on their research and misleading the consumers. If your vehicle is equipped with sun roof the water leak into cabinet can also be caused by the sun roof drain tubes being plugged and need to be unclogged.
Hi I’ve just bought a 2013 CRV with full Honda service history and my AWD light has just come on and it’s staying on I have taken it to Honda and they don’t quite know what the problem is but I’ve read things online and some people say it could be the solenoid I would appreciate any feedback or information on this issue thanks my CRV has done just over 100,000 miles on the clock
I have a 2016 crv, it just started a nock noise under i can hear it. Loud from bottom front. I've replaced catalyst and oxygen sensor, had check engine light, don't go away. Code not present. I went under the car and was able to the flywheel spinning kind of hitting metal don't know if that's the clicking knock engine noise. But why is visible, looks like a cover goes there. Any idea?
Guys, my CRVs is not giving comfortable ride. Struts not leaking but im feeling every small bumbs on road .. should i change my structs? Its 10 years old now.
2015 HONDA CR-V , push button start/stop sometimes work other times i have to press several times. no fob warning lights or low battery on dash or error signals. can i replace it my self? does it have to be programed? could it be something else need suggestions?
hi i would love to if why there is 2 warning lights on the dpf on the honda crv 2014 model the first one that should come on to regenerate to give you the chance to clear it the second one that comes on says take to your dealer do you know why on my car the fist one does not come on to let me regenerate
@@ebravo1 Usually flushed fix minor issues with these cars because the oil can get dirty and clog up passage ways. May have to do 1-3 flushed with 50-100 mile intervals
Hi I have a question I have a Honda crv 2014 1.6 diesel it’s a DPF issue in the manual there’s 2 icons the top DPF icon tels you to take the car for a good run to regenerate DPF the second says take the car to the dealer why in my car does it always to straight to the second one can you help thanks
I have a a 2015 crv and I have a problem with transmission I have what it Tell me is the ship solenoid but I don know where is located inside transmission o outside pleas help !thanks
2015 with 72K miles. Ever since I have owned this car(purchased brand new from dealership) it has had a terrible vibration while idling. I have taken it to Honda dealership many times and complained. They did do an update some time ago but vibration still happens and the dealership keeps telling me that is how the car is supposed to run! I have never had a car vibrate so badly while idling as I have driven Honda cars since 1990 and never had the problem with vibration. Next car will NOT be a Honda!
If you get intermittent slow cranking from time to time and battery is known good,be prepared for the starter to crap out on you. My 2015 CR-V ex has been doing this for a while and as a former auto tech I should have replaced it before it went completely out,as I sit here waiting for a tow truck!! Will have it towed home 🏠. Will put in another starter and give a report later. Right now only symptom is heavy click sound at starter when engaging push button. Battery is good
You’ll notice a very short, light, metallic grinding noise immediately after startup. Lasts for a second or less. VERY common problem with many 4th generation CR V’s. Google it, there’s tons of posts on it. My 2012 had it start at only 23k miles. A low mileage vehicle I purchased late 2019, so it was out of warranty by age (of course!). I had the invite timing chain, seals, actuator replaced with upgraded version). I basically had my mechanic replace everything in the timing chain area. Cost was around $1300...
The video covers top problems for 2012 thru 2016, so that includes your 2014. The 2016 being the last of its generation is probably the most trouble-free for those years.
@@HalbertS-wt5hr yup and 2015 and 2016 have a cvt transmission. That’s why I’m glad to have the 2014. Take gear shifts away from me then driving is no longer fun.
Has anyone experienced issues with CR-V vibrating while in drive and stopped at light or stop sign but doesn't vibrate in park or neutral? I had my 2012 CR-v motor mounts checked at Firestone and were unable to find the root cause of the vibration.
We have sold over 5k crv’s over the last 20 years of which 1k have been the 2012-17 versions you are reporting on. The 06-12 generation did have a/c issues which was nearly always the compressor or condenser This generation has been bullet proof on the a/c with not a single warranty claim on the a/c. We have re gassed a few which is normal but that’s it. Likewise transmissions have been equally tough. Two diesel auto had a small flutter prior to changing up but a simple oil change sorted it. The manuals are faultless To say rotors ( discs ) are issues is a tad disingenuous as they will pulse or vibrate as they wear. But it is only normal wear and tear. Clearly the odd one will have issues but it isn’t a ‘fault’. The issues we have seen have been a couple of cracked EGR pipes on diesels and a few shock absorbers ( again wear and tear ). We have had EML lights illuminated on rare occasions but only one required a oxygen sensor the others were reset and no further issues. All cars will have issues. Non is perfect and the crv is not perfect either. However as a used car it is one of the safest buys for a car 5-9 years old. Listing ‘faults’ suggests common faults. And non are
I drive a 2014 CR-V (70,000miles)and 4 lights came on when i hit the brakes and they remained on. They are: power steering, tire pressure, traction control, and the brake light.
This video was all sorts of wrong. Holy cow! It’s literally like you guys just picked 5 random things in the vehicle. This was so bad. Please do a lot more research next time. For this facelift 4th generation CRV the starter is a common issue, the 12v battery, the failing tail gate handle switch in cold temperatures is an issue. That’s just to name a few!
Hi this is raja from India rear suspension clearance is too in crv 2009 what I can do for it please give me an idea to make more gap between wheel and body .
I have a 2014 that sometimes cranks and not start on the first try. I usually shift into drive and back and play with the pedals and it starts on the 2nd try most of the time. This happens at least a few times a week. 45,000 miles. Any idea?
Sadly I'm finding out that engine oil consumption problem is well known. Wife's car is at 80k and now losing a quart per 1,000 miles, maybe less miles.
Thankfully I have none of those problems 2012 with 127000 miles. I actually don't have any problems except maybe the shocks are starting to get weak. Knock on wood.
2013 I bought it at 110,000 it's at 113,000 MI now, idles a little jumpy with AC on full blast When in d, sometimes it'll idle at red lights a little bit rough When thrown into P any sort of vibrations usually stop Honestly, the mpg is high enough where I just check the oil and tire pressure and I'm writing off the vibration as just the motor mount probably? I'm not worried about it. The fact is, a vibration could be anything - and I don't have the money for a mechanic to look at it if it's still driving. I'm not worried about it lol
I'm at 110,000 on my 2012. I am amazed at how reliable and solid this vehicle is ...though I did have an 86 Accord I ran to 260,000 before trading. Incredible vehicle.
My 2016 crv at 80,000 miles started to make a weird noise and the Honda dealer could kind it or hear it or happens when your driving and the rpms are at 1800-2000 rpms it makes a rattling or a roaring winding noise and Honda can never hear it or diagnos it is it my transmission this car gets treated very well oil cuts on time synthetic oil tire chug balanced on time tuneup every year even if it need it or not so I’m wondering what that sound is and how come Honda mechanics can’t find it
+SPECIAL FIELD SERVICE AGENT TRACEY CORTES We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
