Toyota Prius (Lexus Ct200h) oil burning consumption causes and fix. 

I don't like this. Once you go as deep as he does, you almost might as well overhaul the engine, which costs almost as much as a new engine, so this is well beyond a maintenance procedure. So the first thing that is a maintenance procedure is checking the EGR system and cleaning it if it is clogged, and doing this in the car. This video does not go over that. The second maintenance item is unsticking oil rings without removing pistons. This is at least sometimes possible with detergent soaks or oil flushes on other engines, but I am unclear on the procedure for either on a Prius. It seems to me like use of detergent fuels and oils should be able to prevent this, however he also showed us head gasket issues that to prevent, might require us to devise a head bolt retorquing spec; since modern head bolt torquing specs do not work for retorquing. I actually don't buy his PCV sucking oil explanation either. PCV valves are designed to reduce flow when under high vacuum and so not suck oil under any vacuum that would allow the engine to not stall. The oil ring sticking is caused by inadequate oil and fuel detergency, not even by a clogged PVC system, though inadequate fuel detergency might cause that as well.

I just switched my friends Prius to high mileage motor oil at 120k miles, and we have always used Top Tier detergent gasoline, but maybe we should add even more detergent than that. to prevent both EGR soot buildup and oil ring sticking; as this engine may be more vulnerable than most. The problem is that too much detergent in motor oil can mean less lubricant.

@@alan6832 My understanding is when the PCV Valve is stuck, open. I know in my situation, the PCV Valve was stuck. I didn't check to see if open or closed at the time. Definitely didn't have an internal valve moving freely. I recently switched to Mobile 1 0W-20 full synthetic thinking I'd try that for topping the oil to see if helps unstick the oil seal rings. Seemed to reduce the oil consumption significantly. However, most recently, I ran two full tanks each having a bottle of Techron through. That coupled with the PCV Valve stuck open and an engine oil overfill situation that I didn't drain, I'm guessing caused my first misfire situations enough to trigger the check engine light. I made some bad videos documenting my situation. I swapped in a clean intake manifold, new PCV Valve, cleaned PCV Valve hose and cleaned EGR Pipe. I also cleaned the inside of the EGR Valve housing and valve from the bottom. I didn't yet get into the top side to check for the ski rutt in the plastic and thoroughly clean the rest. I do need to clean the rest of the EGR Valve and EGR Cooler next as I'm getting a situation where when the AC is on and the HV battery is low, my temp goes from approx 194 to approx 204 and when at low speed and slow acceleration I get a rattling like noise that isn't the exact same as the starting high condensation cold engine type situation or what sounds like a really brief death rattle. In regards to the oil, I was thinking running Amsoil for a few oil changes. However, the Mobile 1 seemed to do the job and I'll see if the Techron aided as well possibly. B12 Chemtool soaking reads like about the only other methods I've come across as a potential solution beside disassembly and either cleaning or replacing parts.

@@alan6832 Sure, make sense. I've not used any oil additives yet. Always 0W20 Toyota full synthetic or Mobile 1 0W20 full synthetic 10,000 or more recently to top off the 20,000 mile. I also use only Top Tier 87 octane almost entirely and only a few exceptions. I also had the overfill situation and was parked on inclines which I think might have caused a little more oil to get into the intake more than usual to cause the misfires. Hopefully, didn't cause any connecting rod damage. I'm at approx 283K miles, so scary.

@@jafinch78 My understanding is that high mileage oil has more detergents than oil formulated for new cars, while keeping the API certification that is lost with additives; and there are multiple brands of both types. Then if willing to lose API certification, Marvel Mystery Oil and Sea Foam both say they can be mixed with oil, but it is probably safer to mix them with gasoline.

Does your car vibrate while driving when you receive an EGR valve code?

@@HuyTran-no8nd : no not at all. The light comes on. Stays for few days or week then. Turns back on. I think. EGR. Kicks in at a certain temperature to cool off emission gases….

@@bizforall My Toyota Prius burned oil, causing the car to make noise and little feeling of vibration when driving. Try checking the egr valve and intake manifold.btw thanks for sharing this information

It should be possible to free stuck oil rings in place by soaking them in soot cutting detergent in place, without engine disassembly, though beware of hydro lock when doing so. it should also be possible to clean the EGR or PVC passages without much disassembly. Head gasket issues are usually an argument for periodic retorquing of head bolts. This takes some disassembly and retorquing specs, which for modern engines, have to be devised as the factory torque specs don't work for retorquing with modern head bolts.

No, the dealer won't do it, but you shouldn't need to worry until it reaches 150k. I'm in Austin too and I have one with 165k on it. I'm also looking for a hybrid mechanic who can do this kind of work. Let me know if you have someone from your research! Thank you.

This is false information

Yes- Keep the EGR cooler and lines clean, and clean the intake manifold as well- every 60k-90k should do, as these parts all foul up with carbon quickly. Check out priuschat Gen3 section for many helpful forum links that talk about EGR and other maintenance.

Just perform your scheduled maintenance on time or early. For example, Lexus says to replace your spark plugs around 120k but I changed them at 110k and looked really worn. Also at 100k change your coolant of the radiator and hybrid system and your cvt fluid. I'm at 145k miles on my 2015 CT and haven't cleaned the egr system yet but will soon

@@aminort2 this is the correct answer, along with schedule handbook maintenance

Exactly

AMSOil 10W30 Signature Series Oil,With more Frequently Change Intervals Will Prevent these Problems. And Keep those Valves Cleaned With CRC Valve Cleaner Frequently. Good To Go.

New. They are cheap so might as well use new.

@@gasketmasters how do they typically do on specs? Do you typically run standard size or have to adjust ring or bearing sizes?

@@ryanfinch81 just standard size when honing

@@gasketmasters is there a brand you like more than otheres?

That's a full engine rebuild, probably 7k-12k with parts and labor.

7-12k is a whole new vehicle. An engine rebuild cost around 2500-4000 just depending on what you're rebuilding

Clogged up intake manifold

@@repairvehicle Have had the intake manifold off / cleaned it quite thoroughly. Still does it

@@SidewaysGts , did you clean it yourself?

Use higher octane gas 89 or 91 don’t use 87 and it will go away

@@santosf1107 don’t do this, use the fuel the car is built for

I have a 2010 Prius burning oil. I’ve been monitoring the oil for a while and not once have I seen the oil light come on and I’ve had the oil get pretty low. I use my car for Uber and I can’t afford the time to take the engine out for a rebuild. so I got a engine at the pull-a-part for 260$ and plan to rebuild it with just new head gasket, head bolts, piston rings and rod bearings under 200$. Better than a 1600$ engine off the shelf from s&w with 160k miles on it

​@@christophertatem8790damn why did the junkyard sell you an engine so cheap?

I’m in Atlanta Georgia and my local junkyard called pull a part sells a four cylinder engine for that price.

@christophertatem8790 you have to take it out yourself? Do you have to bring an engine hoist?

@@Hallahanify yes you have to inspect it so you know what you are getting and then remove it yourself and they provide engine hoists

Unplug the egr now you won't have to worry about it but will get a warning light on the dash

I PUT ON A OIL CATCH . I moved the PCV, I screwed it into the out of the catch can, I drilled a hole in the bottom of the catch can and put a drain tube so when I change the oil I can drain it

Did you forgot to change atf?

@@repairvehicle No. My car won't start. The electric motor or however it starts went bad all of a sudden.

@@davidgriffin14 did you ever replace your atf?

@@repairvehicle I did about a year ago.

@@davidgriffin14 first time in how many miles? Previous car was in accident?

Brand of oil and frequency of oil change

@@repairvehicle I would say sadly I listened to the marketing hype... I would buy the most expensive synthetic oil I could find and only change it 1 time a year... About 15,000 mile intervals. This past year I am doing 6 month/ 5,000 mile intervals with the cheapest oil I can find which happens to be Costco Kirkland brand full synthetic oil.

@@nathanhood8578 , every brand of motor oil has different evaporation rate at which oil evaporates and causes oil consumption.

@@repairvehicle that's great and all, but that evaporation rate isn't stated on the bottle. What is stated is what the oil is supposed to be rated for.... Like annual oil changes and mileage it's supposed to last. Mobile1 oil listed as annual oil stated it would last for 20,000 miles which I never hit.

@@nathanhood8578 , there is a lot information not stated on the bottle, majority of oil companies don’t want you to know the facts. You have look for this information at companies website. If you read small text on Mobil 1 bottle, oil cannot last 20k miles and should not be used for 20k miles. It’s just marketing words to trick people to believe in false information. Also, Mobil 1 will never tell you that their full synthetic oil is not even synthetic. It’s labeled as full synthetic but it’s not synthetic at all. Late 90s there was lawsuit between Mobil and castrol oil about using none synthetic base stock in oil but keeping the label. Mobil lost lawsuit and since then every full synthetic oil on the market is no longer true synthetic.

It’s cheaper to buy low mileage jdm engine