Just got mine done today, it had never been done before with 250k on the engine. Dropped my idle approximately 400 rpm. Thank you so much for the video
Had no idea this was a recommended preventive maintenance item that needed to be done until I watched your video. I'll be tackling this procedure this weekend on my 2010 Tacoma with 184k miles. Went out and bought the cleaner yesterday and am currently waiting for the replacement gasket to arrive. Thank you again for such a comprehensive and and informative video.
After doing a little more research on the proper method of cleaning the throttle body either by the first observed vid or the second Toyota recommends not to spray the throttle body with the cleaner but spray some on a micro fiber rag sparingly and wipe throttle body as clean as possible. Spraying the throttle body butterfly can affect the performance and or damage the sensor attached to the throttle body butterfly shaft as the cleaner when sprayed can run down the shaft into the sensor and therefore maybe create an issue. Other than that this is a very good tutorial on this procedure.
Thank you so much! I replaced my ac compressor with the battery disconnected for 4-5hrs. The truck started to idle low. So I checked everything I messed with, changed the 5 year old battery and belt to no avail. Saw your other gas peddle video, no luck and went back to the forums. 171k on the truck, it needed it! Being stationed overseas it’s hard to get parts quickly for a us spec vehicle.
I put the first mile on my 2006 Tacoma way back when. Fast forward to 2022, it’s acting up like an old man, like me! At 270k miles it started giving me acceleration and hesitation issues, throwing check engine light saying the #4 ignition coil was bad. Changed that, same issue a few weeks later. Changed the #4 fuel injector, ran ok for a while then back again to the issue of hesitation and rough starts. I can tell you, after doing the throttle cleaning procedure, this was the first time where after I reconnected the battery the idle ran smooth immediately. Where as before it would idle to shut off and it would take forever for it to relearn the idle. Not this time. I hope this is the fix it needed.Thanks for the video, it was a great help!
Hey how it’s going. I have a 06 Toyota Tacoma V6 4.0 4x4 with 314k miles. My father owned the truck before me. It was a gift. About 6months ago I got the check engine light. Took to autozone for diagnostics. They said it was the oxygen sensors. Bank 1 and bank 2. Buying all 4 sensors with cost a little over $600. My question is. Did you ever have that problem? And if you did did you replace sensors or used any other solution to fix the problem? Thanks
@@lilpelusa I honestly don’t remember if I changed an O2 sensor. I changed a fuel injector and the ignition coils but that’s it. The throttle cleaning helped for a bit but the roughness and check engine light came back. At that point I was out of ideas. One honest mechanic I know said it was probably a stuck valve. I’d need to replace the heads, which basically meant I should just replace the engine. He suggested I start throwing some Chevron Techron additive with every other filling, that it helps clean valves. I did that and it helped but as a temporary fix. The one thing that I can say changed everything and FINALLY solved the problem, was pumping 91 octane fuel since then. That solved it. For years I did 87 since that’s what the owner’s manual recommended. Once I started using only 91, it’s made all the difference. Haven’t had a check engine light since and the truck runs strong. If you haven’t done that, try it. It’s worth the extra costs.
Thank you for the tips. My father trade me his 06 Tacoma for my old car. He loves old Toyota models. He owned a few 90s models and in 2012 he bout a brand new Tacoma. After paying off the new Tacoma he bought the 06 Tacoma with around 150k miles. He always said the 06 was better than the 2012. The 06 Tacoma looked better than the 2012. When I traded my old car for the 06 it had 299k miles. So I have added about 15k in 6 months. Since I owned the truck I switched to synthetic high milage oil and to 89 gas. My father used regular oil and 87 gas. It has original engine and trans. No problems with truck. Besides power steering oil leak. But not where it need to be replaced asap. After a month of getting truck check engine light came on. Took it to autozone and said it was the oxygen sensors. It will cost over $600 to replace. Today I cleaned the throttle body and after connecting everything the engine light went away. I don’t know if it will come back. I added the seafoam additive in the crank case. I’m ready to do an oil change sometime this week. I added luckas in to the gas tank. Was also thinking about adding the Catacleaner or something like that. But maybe I should wait a bit. I also tried using a seafoam spray motor treatment. The one you spray on throttle body while truck is running to clean injectors but failed. Truck would turn off when disconnecting the air intake. The maintenance I’m doing is more to keep it in great condition but I feel like I am going to have to replace those 02 sensors soon. I do appreciate the reply. Thank you
Dude - awesome video - i sued MAF cleaner instead of throttle body cleaner but same chemistry - chage out my spark plugs and cleaned the MAF sensor all at once - dropped my idle to 500 rpm and still have a slight shudder - not too sure why. Also thanks for spaecing out the freaking torque on those bolts - snapped one but new ones were 1.29 from stealership and didnt screw up the screw inserts phew. Keep on keeping on brother - youre doing gods work.
If you disconnect the 2 small coolant lines you can take it completely out of the engine bay for an easy very thorough cleaning. It will drip a little coolant but nothing a well placed rag wont soak up. Just don't squeeze any of your large coolant lines or it will squirt.
I believe my butterfly valve was actually sticking before I did this cleaning. Was getting poor performance and 14 MPG! (mixed highway and back roads). After cleaning I instantly noticed improved acceleration and first incomplete fill up gave me 17 MPG. Hopefully my next fill up will get me back to typical 18-19 MPG.
Thanks for the excellent video on this. Will be doing this on my Tacoma soon. Nearly had to spit out my morning coffee with the random Peter North comment. LOL.
Good to see this type of videos for a DIY. Nothing better than doing it yourself, you know what you are doing, and doing it right the first time, specially whit this help!!!. Thanks, blessings.
Just inherited my Mom's 07 Taco. She got 199k miles off the factory alternator and plugs. I'm replacing everything now. Love your tutorials, well done, even with the editing lol. Wondering if you're going to get a throttle body spacer at some time. There's not really any good videos on how to do so and I know u would make a great video. Thanks for your time and keep up the awesome work fellow Tacomahollic! ❤️
I highly recommend watching the full video even if you’re doing the partial cleaning! He makes a few good points during that second part! Great tutorial. Combo that with a Toyota induction cleaner and drip bottle to clean the intake manifold and intake valves and your truck will run WAY better. Definitely recommend doing this though. Also if you’re doing the partial, wouldn’t be a bad idea to get a pedal depressor or a brick. Then just put the truck in ACC mode (engine OFF) and push the throttle all the way and it’ll open up the valve for you! Don’t worry, it won’t throw any codes if you do it right.
Nice and very detailed video. I haven't done a thorough cleaning like this on my TB, however I did give it a quick wipe down when I installed my AFE intake and TB spacer
Good video I'll be doing mine soon as well as the MAF kinda notice my idle is kinda getting rough I've had mine since new it's the same year as yours but never got the chance to do it yet.
The only thing people may want to do differently is u should have removed the vent hose in the back of the air box. We have so many people brake the fitting coming off and then it’s $600 for a new box. It’s because of that pop it makes. If u are not ready for it and it goes to fare to the left, bye bye air box. U can fix it with JB weld if it brakes. Just FYI and yes I work in parts at Toyota
It's a crappy airbox anyway, you're better off replacing it with one that sits off to the side like the TRD box, smoother intake, bigger filter element and no heatsoak from sitting on top of the engine.
The proper way to clean a throttle body is to completely remove it and thoroughly clean and dry excess spray, not to have it pool up and will prevent that first hard start and minute or two of rough idle (it wasn't the battery that did it) that being said, I do it the same way on mine. It's annoying to remove it. Haha nice video man.
@@Tacomaholic Since it was brand new. I put that kit on within the first month of owning it. I have a 2015 TRD Pro 4.0 liter V6 6 speed. ( 4x4 ). Not the K&N insert but the complete kit that rips out the air box and replaces it with the straight shot from the larger cone filter.
all i ever do is use seafoam loosen the clamp on the throttle body stick the end of the spray in tighten the clamp kind of tight to keep the vacum leaks to a minimum start the engine run it through smokes like heck but works good ive got 250k on my 07 also I run E3 spark plugs and runs great
The comment about the wood chipper made me laugh hard. I had to deal with one of those last year for a day, and then the guy left the wood chips laying out there for months during California fire season. I got PTSD with those things.
This will be tomorrows project (the full Monty version). Dumb question though ... If I unplug the electrical connector at the throttle body will I still need to disconnect the battery? And a little tip for what to do with the negative cable to keep it from grounding out, I use a red solo cup. Put the negative cable into the cup and it acts as an insulator so you're safe. Plus the big RED cup in the engine bay reminds you to reconnect the battery!
Trying to reset P0102 code on my 2013 RAV4 2.5 liter 4 banger. I read that I should remove the MAF sensor and let vehicle idle for 10 seconds (up to a minute or two). The computer reads no MAF sensor. Then reinstall and the code goes away. Is this correct? Do I have to remove the sensor or can I just disconnect it. If I remove the sensor should I cover the opening with something? (duct tape?) Before anyone asks I will state I already cleaned the sensor and tested in by using the live data function and comparing MAF readings at 1000 rpm and 2000 rpm. It read approximately 75 and 150 respectively. My understanding is that this indicates MAF is now operating correctly. Any input is welcome.
The service is a good idea it Smooths out idle and also makes the operation of the throttle body smoother as well just be careful not to spray too much because it's too much goes down in one of the cylinders it could get hydrolocked and damage the engine so go easy on the spray when you do it
Hey Brian, love your videos. I am doing this as my next project for my 2nd Gen 2006 prerunner. Amazon says this gasket doesn't fit my truck. Any reason why it was say that? I have a Prerunner which is a V6 4.0 Liter. The gasket should be a perfect fit.
Great channel. Yours is a 2014 trd sport? If so that’s the exact same as mine. I have ome bp51 complete suspension withe leaf spring pack and aal. Total chaos cam tab and steer knuckle gussets, total chaos upper control arms. Arb complete skid plates, icon LCA skid plates. aFe momentum cold air intake with scoop and throttle body extender. American thunder dual exhaust, bed stiffeners, summosprings bump stops, des racks & smitt6 built roof top tent. Also winch bumper and badlands winch 9k lbs. How do I get the breaks from done right, 2nd gen Tacoma ‘s have breaks that go to the floor even after getting a break overhaul? What about pedal commander?
Thanks Sue! Mine is a 2014 TRD Offroad. Are you saying your brake pedal goes all the way to the floor? Here's my review vid for the Pedal Commander: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--bGUM_mmKGU.html
@Tacomaholic - Hey, thanks as always for your videos!! I just completed this job on my 2009 Tacoma DC Prerunner TRD Sport and performed the job exactly as you did. Curious, have you ever heard that manually moving the butterfly to clean it on the throttle body can possibly damage the throttle position sensor?? I was watching a video by Budget Mechanic Hawaii and he mentioned this. I believe, it was the video on rough idling. I have never heard this before, but I took my throttle body off to completely clean it and opened the butterfly multiple times manually to clean. I don't seem to be having it issues with my truck, but figured I would ask you. Thanks for any help!
Dear Tacomaholic, I have Tacoma 2007, VVT-I V6 with no diff lock. If you can say a few words about possibility of putting a rear axle with diff lock on it. Thank's.
Tacomaholic I believe that! I did my brother's Corolla 1ZZ-FE before at 85K miles. Man that was a massive pool in the plastic intake manifold and the TB was nasty. Made me a believer in the necessity of oil catch cans 100%
On my FJ62 Cruiser I drilled a port after the MAF and before the TB that the little red tube fit into and just emptied a can of Gumout into it with the engine running. Whenever I did this I pulled the downstream O2 sensor first though. :-)
