TPM Reloading - The Precision Rifle Reloading Series - Episode #3 - Detailed Rifle Brass Preparation 

I have been reloading for decades. Very smooth explanations and always ready to learn more. Keep up the great videos . Thank You

Tons of great info, been reloading for decades and Im still learning new stuff. Thanks for sharing your process!!!

Awesome video. Great in-depth explanation much appreciated Shawn

This is a great run down of brass prep!

Great content! I cant wait to get into reloading. I've been scooping up parts and tools and having them shipped back home while I'm on deployment. Got plenty of 308 and 223 to brass back home.

I learned something today! The imperial dry lube for the neck lube! And leaving it inside for bullet seating! AWESOME! Something I’ve definitely been missing in my process

Thanks for all the Awesome content Shawn. And especially thanks for addressing the unreasonable lead times within the rifle building component industry. It's pretty ridiculous and it seems like it's just a matter of having the market "cornered" and as customers being at the mercy of a few companies that all operate at the same speed. Thanks for cramping their style and putting the pressure on them to step up.

That's close to what I do, except for annealing and I use an ultrasonic for brass cleaning. Great series, very well done. I know you've ran into this issue because I've only been reloading for 6 years and have ran into it twice. Some dies do not size properly and even though you get the correct bump, .002-.003", thee brass doesn't chamber properly due to expansion of the web/head area. I've solved the issue with different dies, but it's now happening again with Norma brass (300 Norma). I'll figure it out eventually by either finding the correct die that sizes that area or using a body die. I suspect this is a brass issue due to poor brass, but the first time it happened was with Alpha brass and switching form Redding to Forster fixed it. Now the Forster FL die is not doing it. Different caliber and gun. It's happening with my AI AXSR, but have been reading that Norma brass expands too much due to how soft it is. I have Alpha brass coming so we'll see how it goes. I've read a lot of stuff over various forums with people having this issue, but have yet to find the cause. Is it the fault of the die or the brass? Once I figure it out for the 300 Norma, I'll have an answer, but wanted to ask in case you (or anyone else) had a solution. Again, great series and keep the killer videos coming.

Great tip with using the dry lube media.

Very very good video. For sure, going to be my new go to, to send ppl when they ask about precision reloading. Ur process is identical to mine.

Only have an ultrasonic cleaner, the first time is after primer removal second time is after all case prep (sizing, annealing, etc) is done before new, primer, powder, and bullet assembly. I was as looking at a tumbler if I really want to get annal about it. Thank you for taking the time to do these videos as it is always good to get professional processes.

Great Video! Perfect explanation of things. First mention I have heard any where, about the amount of neck tension and bullet set back. Winchester brass works good in my 300 Mag as well. Thumbs Up, I am watching.

Great work my friend 👍👍

I dig it! I use a very similar process, just a couple different brands or tools. Love the series.

Regarding using the mandrel. I also try to achieve 2k neck tension. I use 21st century mandrels however when I run the case on to the mandrel when the case is brought back down I spin the case in the shell holder 180 degrees and run the case back up into the mandrel. Regarding lubricant on the mandrel I used to use the graphite like you do but I have recently switched to a liquid lube called NeoLube 2. I have found when seating my bullets in the arbor press I see more consistent seating pressure. I don’t think your going to show seating using an arbor press but the press you are using in the video. That is cool I’m probably more annal in my reloading process. What you are providing is some great information and detailed instructions for Reloaders. Keep it up 😊

I lay the brasso to cases before sizing..helps make em slick too as I’ve had a time with lube..only thing works is paint lee lube on with toothbrush..so far never stuck a .308 and well over 1k rds….hornady dies…223 stick alot nomatter what I do cause rim won’t take much on the down stroke but lee dies just remove collet and hammer case out…I’ve got good at it..great to see you grow my friend

I use the Ugly Annealer for annealing Brass - for those on a budget - they are freaking awsome!!

Loving the intense in-depth of this video and taking some notes. Curious if you get a case stuck, how do you remove it the easiest without damaging in die?

What kind of improvements have you seen from uniforming the primer pockets and flash holes? It's not something I've done yet and I'm interested in understanding what it will improve. I'm assuming it will result in lower velocity spread, but I'd like to be sure.

GOOD DAY TO YOU, have you ever heard go "Shooting Technology" in Italy, they have a wet tumbler developed which makes it much easier to separate steel pins from cases than the process you have shown here. Just look at their homepage - I think they call it LEM case cleaner.

Great detailed info and my exact process, except I trim after running it through the expander mandrel. Wouldn’t you be changing the length when running the mandrel afterwards?

Great video, what’s the Brand of the flash hole tool you use? I have a KM but goes in through the cartridge mouth.

I may have missed you mentioning it, but Lapua 6mm creedmoor brass has a small flash hole that requires a smaller decapping pin. Also, if you are using a vibratory tumbler, go to a pet store and buy the reptile bedding. It’s just the same walnut media, but half the price!

Wow!! Where were you 4 years ago when I started my precision reloading quest .. your presentation would have saved me a lot or research and grief ($$$ in reloading components) your conclusions on brass prep are similar to mine ( I've decided if Lapua doesn't make the cartridge brass -- I don't shoot that cartridge ) annealing, dry lube and ID sizing with mandrel etc... I am still struggling on one area you passed over .... How do you decide on overall brass trim length for trimming??? ... even my Lapua brass (after being reloaded and shot once) is well under the SAMII maximum spec length that is in all the reloading literature .. Do you have a rational method for determing this? Looking forward to you future videos ...... Well done

How important is consistency with shoulder set back? If i set the die at say .002 set back but I get a piece of brass that goes .003 or .004 am I going to see a performance difference because of that?

can you ship a proof barrel to Canada without any problems ?

You're going to laugh but I have a wet tumbler identical to yours and I haven't used it just yet. Something that concerns me a bit is the possibility of having left over pins which remain inside the case. Other than inspecting each case internally with a light, very time consuming, how do you remedy this? Thanks for all the great videos!

I know it is an old video but this is probably the 5th time I have watched it. Every time I end up buying something new to make my accuracy better. This time I have to ask a question. I use Hornaday brass because it is easier to find loaded and unloaded. I also use redding type s dies. Since the brass is not uniformed on the neck I am going to get the mandrel and start sizing that way instead of the bushing. Question is I have been using a .289 bushing for roughly .002 neck tension based on average brass thickness. Would you go to a .288 or .287 because of the inconsistency of the brass? The reason I ask is because KM website says I should go down .007 and expand back up. You say go down .003 and go back up to .002

Kinda hard to to see but it looks like you have a power conditioner hooked up to your scale. If so two questions. Has it helped with your scale drifting and if so, what power conditioner are your using? Thanks!

Do you see changes in the performance through each cycle?

Are the actions you mentioned Pristine ?

I'm shocked that anyone is still propane annealing. Look into induction annealing! I'll NEVER propane anneal again. My setup is a cheap "Hot Rod" induction heater wired to a digital timer. I know that my Lake City NATO cases get a 1.55 second blast and it does it *perfectly* every time.