Triggered Precision Machine is a family owned machine shop specializing in precision machining, 3D modeling and custom metal fabrication projects. We are a heavily detail oriented shop with an imagination to match. From aerospace tool and die manufacturing to custom precision weapon systems, we can do it all.
I'm annealing and mandrel sizing after I use a full length sizer die with expander ball removed. Do I still need to get a neck sizing die? Or is that just chasing the extra little bit?
SKIP Boretech Eliminator, it's trying to do 2 things well at once. CLP people like this idea but it's compromising time and effort. Boretech Carbon Remover is amazing, I switch with Boretch Copper Remover and back and forth till clean.
I have a couple of those same bore guides my father passed down to me when he passed, I wondered who made them.. I have one for 6br and 6.5x284 so I guess I'm set for life! Lol
Fair assessment. I had an issue (1-1.5”) and had about given up on a rifle. Load D, various factory, nothing worked. I wondered if the smith’s equipment was off. Shoots fantastic now (to me). .25 to under .5 depending on fouling. For my PRS purpose that’s great for me.
how much variance to you see round to round in your seating depth? In the video, the second round ended up 1 thousandth short. Is this normal? What kind of variance is acceptable to you?
What kind of improvements have you seen from uniforming the primer pockets and flash holes? It's not something I've done yet and I'm interested in understanding what it will improve. I'm assuming it will result in lower velocity spread, but I'd like to be sure.
Great video. I would love to see a video of the things that Are "worth the squeeze" as you put it. Steps, tools, or habits that made the most difference in getting consistent reloads.
Nope, I buy good quality rings (Nightforce, Area 419, American Precision Arms, Spuhr, etc.) and never found the need to. Modern machining capabilities are much better than what they had 30+ years ago, the rings these days are really, really good.
@triggeredprecisionmachinellc I've had 2 sets of Spuhr mounts that were way off. They took care of me and sent out new rings and I returned them but good thing I check all mine or I would of never known probably. It doesn't matter the brand or price to me now days I'll always double check just to be 100%
@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc I’m bummed I haven’t been able to make it out for the challenge yet. Doubt I can beat that other group. I will do it even though it won’t be in time.
This is a great and sensible video. You brought up some thing that I hadn’t thought of. My brand new high dollar barrel kept showing blue after about 60 patches using the tech copper remover. Never dawned on me that my brass brush or rather jag was saturating through, and it wasn’t coming from my barrel, but from my jag. Good call.
Thanks for the video. Its concerning that your OCW tests are 20 thou off the lands, but you start your seating tests with touching the lands. This will increase pressure; not a good thing if your OCW loads are hot or have I misunderstood something? Cheers
OCW testing is done off the lands for a few reasons. First, most bullets, with the exception of VLD bullets, don't mind being jumped. Second, staying off the lands will safely provide you a better understanding of the pressure tolerance of your rifle without having the interference of the lands. Also, when people measure the lands using one of the Hornady modified cases, or a few of the other methods, you are getting a rough estimate of your lands. With the taper of the leade, the profile of the bullet, it is EXTREMELY easy to push the bullet .005" or more into the lands without feeling much pressure at all, so at that point you are technically jammed into the lands. Staying .020" off for the testing is enough to eliminate this and give you a starting reference point. During the OCW testing process, we're looking at several things at once. One of the most important things is looking for pressure signs as we work are way up the load ladder. If done correctly, your last charge weights should be at or very, very near the peak pressure for that combo. We document this, along with the environmentals to set a theoretical boundary for future loads. For example, if we are doing load dev. on a blistering hot day and I start to see definitive pressure signs at 45 grains, I know that is my pressure ceiling and I will work backwards from there and aim to be at least 2% lower in my final charge weight. Conversely, if we are doing load dev. in the winder at 20 degrees and I hit pressure at 45 grains, I know that will almost certainly not be the case with triple digit temperatures hit in the summer so I am much more cautious here, if I am planning to load ammo that will be shot in the hotter times of the year. I will back off 3% of more from that top load and go from there, or re-do the load dev. in the summer to be 100% safe. All that being said, when the OCW process is done correctly, you will generally find two "nodes". One high, and one low. Many times the high node will be too close to the pressure ceiling for comfort, so I default to the low node. These are generally separated by 3-4 increments in powder charges. Take the safety over a little extra speed. Its easier on brass and the target won't know the difference. Now circling back to your question about conducting the OCW off the lands and starting a seating depth test at the lands. Referencing the above, if the test is done correctly, you shouldn't be so close to your pressure ceiling that seating another .020" forward to just barely touch the lands, would cause any problems at all. If you do end up accidentally picking a load that is on the warm side and seat it at the lands, yes, chances are you will see a bit more pressure but on a modern, properly built rifle, this should show up as possibly heavy bolt lift, ejector marks, and worst case, a pierced primer. I've personally never had an issue after using this method for over 20 years. I see a much greater pressure spike if I'm shooting in field condiditons and get moisture in my chamber or on my ammunition. That was long winded, but I thought your question was excellent and brought up a great point some other people were curious about too. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!!! Shawn
I know it is an old video but this is probably the 5th time I have watched it. Every time I end up buying something new to make my accuracy better. This time I have to ask a question. I use Hornaday brass because it is easier to find loaded and unloaded. I also use redding type s dies. Since the brass is not uniformed on the neck I am going to get the mandrel and start sizing that way instead of the bushing. Question is I have been using a .289 bushing for roughly .002 neck tension based on average brass thickness. Would you go to a .288 or .287 because of the inconsistency of the brass? The reason I ask is because KM website says I should go down .007 and expand back up. You say go down .003 and go back up to .002
On Lapua brass I've found going down .003" and expanding back up for .002" neck tension works very well on annealed brass. On other brass like Winchester, Hornady, etc., I generally will start at .004" and neck up to .002" When you are doing it, pay attention to the feel, if you have some that barely feel like the expander is kissing, maybe try a smaller bushing until you feel the expander contact in the neck. Also, super important, be sure to use a good neck lube when expanding. Not using neck lube can gall the brass and really goof up neck tension.
@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc thank you for the information. I guess I will buy a set of neck bushings so I have options. I only have the one because it is what worked with the brass I have.
I shoot them when it is requested by the customer. As far as accuracy, I guarantee my work 100%. I can't guarantee a customer's shooting ability, reloading ability or ammunition selection. I've yet to have a rifle that didn't exceed my customer's expectations. When manufacturers put out accuracy claims I scratch my head. If they guarantee a 1/2" or better gun, what ammo is that with, who was shooting, and how was the rifle shot? Factory ammo lots these days are all over the place, we've had lots of Hornady match in the shop that shoot sub 1/4" and other lots that are barely 1" out of the same rifle. @toddb930 can attest to this. Hope that helps, people love seeing that accuracy guarantee but I can't tell you how many rifles from these big semi-custom companies out there where the shooters aren't able to reach this claim, no matter what they do. I get these rifles in my shop on a regular basis and we try and diagnose the problem. Ofter times they just aren't built "right".
i ordered a triggertech special for my solus aswell, only thing is its the version with the bolt release button. I know the solus has the built in button for bolt release. Will it work?
Since you chamber barrels, I thought I would mention this. When I had my last rifle chambered, I had my smith take the reamer to the barrel cutoff. I now have an exact copy of my chamber from the shoulder to the rifling. It works great for checking initial jam for seating depth as well as a comparator bushing for checking shoulder bump.
In regards to consistently resizing the ID of the case neck, Greg at Primal Rights did a great video explaining how to achieve it. Essentially there is a sweet spot where you move the brass enough to cause it to yield, but not so much that you shorten the case life. If the brass isn’t moved to its yield point, sizing will not be consistent. I was chasing inconsistent neck sizes until I watched his video and bought the correct bushing and mandrel.
100% accurate and great point. If I’m going for .002” neck tension, I usually under size the OD with a bushing .003 - .004, then use the .002” under mandrel to bring the ID back up. I get very consistent neck tension, but I’ve discovered that proper lube is key.
For your seating depth, what is the minimum of bullet that you would have in the case neck? I have a factory rifle and I have a fair amount of free bore. I have been told to keep a minimum of one bullet diameter in the neck. So, a .308 would have a minimum of .308 of the bullet oal in the neck. Im curious of your thoughts on this. Thanks in advance.
Ammo. Time. Barrel fouling. And I've never found that to be necessary. I've tuned several .22's with this method and always had the same, good results. During the rough tuning, you aren't going to miss a node by moving 5 increments. You should see a pattern emerge with one distinct area on the tuner which you explore further by moving around that number in smaller increments.
Thanx for the info,much appreciated!!!! I don’t see a huge difference like they say from needing to zero at 25 yards.I feel 10-15 are just fine also!!!! 🎯🎯🎯🎯
I don’t known who to believe… One person says to go with Hoppes and a bronze brush, other person says Bore tech, There’s a guy swearing by thinner and I’m sitting here trying to clean and maintain my first ever rifle that I haven’t shot yet!
Lots of information out there. I can tell you the old school Hoppe's #9 (not the benchrest stuff), doesn't do much at all for copper fouling. Don't over think it, grab some Bore Tech, Wipe-Out Patch-Out or some other safe, reputable cleaner and give it a go. Biggest thing is don't get too wrapped around the axel about it, have fun shooting!
I am going to capture the velocity for the 20 rounds just to see what the spread is over that size of samples. Was the 0.002" group a three shot group?
Yup, it was three shots. Jeff was having a little contest with his nephew and son-in-law. All three shot groups under .25" with Jeff's group winning. 🥇
It was basically one single, bullet diameter hole from what I could tell. Pretty impressive. Even if his measurement was off, which is may be because like you said, measuring something that close is really tough, it isn't much bigger than that. Tough to measure though.
With groups, including 1 hole, you measure the widest spread of group or hole, outside to outside, and subtract the diameter of the bullet. This is the best you can do.
It could not have been two round through the same hole 6.5mm = .256”/2=.133” which as was said here the best possible group is .133” so there had to be approximately.090” of offset in the POI
great video . i was wandering when I have gone 20 round and I clean it I do not have to clean my rifle again when I go shooting ? I can put my rifle away with the powder left in the barrel and that will not harm the rifle. the only time I need to clean it his when I lose accuracy. sorry for asking this but english is not my first language I am Cree native from Canada
Hey buddy! I kind of determine that on a case by case basis. If its a rifle I shoot frequently, 99% of the time I will just wipe it down with some CLP and throw it in the safe. It its a rifle that I know won't come out of the safe for months, I'll clean it up for no reason other than its nice to not wonder if the barrel is in need of cleaning when it comes out. A couple things to keep in mind. I'm referring to bolt action rifles above. If you are shooting a semi auto, or even a suppressed semi-auto, those get dirty as a much, much faster interval and get cleaned much more frequently. Also, if you are shooting a rifle with a steel barrel, I would at the very least run a wet patch of CLP through that barrel after shooting and before storing. Those will be prone to rust and oxidation significantly more than a good quality stainless steel barrel. As long as you are shooting good quality, modern ammo with non-corrosive primers and powder, you don't have to worry about major oxidation with stainless barrels. It can still oxidize depending on the environment it's stored in, but I've never seen a barrel ruined by it. I've had some rifles in the shop (factory remington's with stainless sporter barrels) that were legitimately never cleaned in their life. No high round count because they were hunting rifles, but never cleaned over the several years they were owned. The barrels cleaned up fine and looked perfect in the bore scope. With the bolt action rifles I shoot alot, like my match rifles, I still go by the "clean when accuracy falls off" method. My cleaning intervals right now for my 6 BRA match rifle are about every 400 rounds. I don't notice any increased difficulty in getting the barrel clean at this point and accuracy never goes above 3/8" or so. Thanks for watching, I hope that helps.
Thanks, great video. I have a break in question. You shared that a single box of 20 rounds while sighting it in is all that's really needed. You also said something about this rifle having ... I think you said 90 rounds ... through it and that it was not fully broke in. That might not be an exact quote, but I think you said something like that. Could you please expand on this a little? I'm new to all of this and just purchased my first decent rifle. I'm getting ready to sight it in and am trying to decide what I want to do for break in. It's got a Proof carbon wrapped stainless steel barrel (7 PRC). Thanks again!
I consider "break in" to be two separate animals. The first 20 rounds serve to iron out any burrs left from the rifling and chambering process. Sure, more rounds will smooth things out more, but if the barrel is of good quality and the smith had good machining practices, those first 20 rounds should do the trick. Many people will argue to use a strict protocol of shoot one, clean, shoot one clean, or something of that nature, for the first few rounds. There has never been any proof that this does anything to prolong the life of the barrel or increase accuracy. It just takes time. Now the second part of the "break in" I was referring to are the changes in the bore that take place in the subsequent rounds. What we see in the next 50-200 rounds (this can vary widely), is *usually* a velocity increase and possible an accuracy increase. This is the throat and bore getting smoothed out from being shot. There is no way to predict the number of rounds for the barrel to fully stabilize so this is generally accepted and monitored by match shooters who need to be aware of the velocity changes. Hopefully that makes sense, if you have any other questions, feel free to email me.
