Our new and improved turbo fire bucket, does she blow more than just the door? Like, follow, subscribe and share Instagram @escapetheeveryday_ RU-vid @escapetheeveryday
I tell you what, if there's one thing i've learned from these turbo furnaces, it's that there's a good reason real jet engines are fuel-regulated instead of air-regulated. It's so much easier to limit the amount of pressure you build by just reducing how much fuel is available to burn. But you're right about one thing, for sure - this shit is *great* entertainment
also its a whole lot more efficient because otherwise you regulate how rich the mixture is. With fuel regulation you can achieve rather impressive efficiency
Also air/oxygen rich mixture will burn things like oxy/acetylene torch 😂😂😂 It is probably one of the resons why bolts simply melted, they actually burned 😂😂😂
@@rhettgerner839 yeah but that's a liquid fuel source. You get a cooling effect from the fuel changing states from liquid to gas, and you get a bit of cooling from running the mix rich so that the flame runs a bit cooler. This solid fuel doesn't really benefit from that, and bypass air cooling would benefit the turbine a lot more. Turbines are kinda like diesels - they really should be allowed to breathe freely and just be limited by the energy available in the fuel provided.
Use a throttle body or butterfly valve on the turbo intake not after the turbo. Then your controlling the air amount that is to be pressurised not controlling pre pressurised flow.
I agree however I would design a very high temperature throttle valve on the exducer side before the turbo to regulate pressure without stressing the turbo at all. The plate needs high temp treated bolts. Steel braided oil lines for sure,oil cooler before dump line. Oh what the hell I'm going to build one myself.
The best way for throttling is a bypass valve between the boost pipe and the turbine inlet(square tubing below the turbo) the fresh air mixed with the hot exhaust lowers the temperature at the turbine wheel and keeps it from melting, it also doesn't interrupt the airflow through the compressor wheel and therefore provides some braking force, so the rpm don't get too high. It is also necessary to cool the turbo down before it gets stopped otherwise the oil in the bearings gets overheated and it turns into coal which will destroy the bearings very quickly, the cooling procedure should be something like this: take a leaf blower and start its engine, then close the shutoff valve in the boost pipe while the bypass valve is wide open and immediately blow air into the turbo intake until the turbo is cooled down at least to approx 300-400°C. The fire will slowly extinguish while you cool the turbo because all the air bypasses the fire and it goes only straight through the turbo.
Definitely need a wastegate setup with adjustment. This will let you run at whatever pressure/burn rate you want. Also would be better to to use a slide valve or butterfly on the intake instead of the ball valve on the compressed air. Restricting the air after the turbo has compressed it can lead to a surge/stall where the flow temporarily reverses back out the intake. I believe your current throttle causes back pressure on the compressor causing it to slow down, then less air goes into the combustion chamber, which causes the turbine to produce less power to run the compressor, and this repeats in a negative feedback loop. Restricting the intake fixes this issue. Another thing to try later would be injecting air between the burn chamber and the turbo to get the smokey gasses to burn, making more power. It might be difficult to get them to self ignite though.
If it keeps causing issues, it might be best to try a different door set up. With a door with that much surface area, it is going to be a struggle. An 6 inch or so round door on the end of the tank might allow a smaller opening, while letting you load large long pieces of wood in. Heat is also working against your door setup. It looks like the mid section gets hot first. T.his is another reason it might help to put it on the end. I hope this gives you some thoughts. I have been enjoying watching these videos, and want to see what limits you can reach with some persistence.
Agree, door needs a complete redesign. Many pressure vessels often use an inward opening door so the more pressure that builds, the better it seals. For door seals, you could at the rope looking fiberglass stuff they use on fireplace door seals. A couple safety ideas I thought of: May be worth swapping to a lower pressure rated relief valve. Those tanks may have a test pressure of 300psi or so, but that isn't when they are red hot. A remote trigger for your ball valve would be as simple as attaching a rope to it.
The door is actually a feature. It allows for pressure relief in a showy, but still relatively safe fashion. (Agreed that putting an entire end on with a flange would be the superior way to contain pressure, but it's already hitting certain limits as it is. Also are you wanting to trust a relief valve likely made for liquids with exceptionally hot gases?)
To make the door stronger you can weld some thick ass bars just inside the bolts with a x cross brace to try and keep it from bending. The turbo setup would probably work best as a twin turbo since there is so much flow coming out, may need to block one turbo to start, I think a true compound set up would be awesome if you could control it but it might just keep blowing the door off. You could also hook up a cable to the wastegate and pull it open to bypass some gasses, might not be enough though to do much but worth a shot. Also try spraying some water in the turbo as steam is a nice expanding gas with some cooling at these temps and would be cool to watch.
I think to make the door stronger you just need to make it smaller. It’s got a lot of surface area to warp and melt. The charge pipe diameter I think should be increased to atleast match the outlet of the turbo. Reducing pressure while increasing flow rate might aid slightly in the longevity of the door.
E85 has a better cooling effect… and it’s also a fuel… It’s only a matter of time until someone puts a fogger aimed directly into the turbo spraying nitrous and e85. If only I had the space like these blokes.
Possibly also put a water sprayer on the top current door to keep the steel cooler. That could make some fun steam fireballs and keep the steel below the temperature where creep occurs.
When you put the valve in the output of the turbo you buildup a lot of back-pressure which can break the inlet turbine. It's better to put a valve in front of the turbo to limit how much air can get in.
That is also a bad idea because if you remove some load off the compressor wheel, it causes even higher rpm. You can try it yourself, just put your hand on the inlet of your vacuum cleaner and you will hear the rpm going up...
@@Henning_S. But it will go down, since there is less oxygen to burn the flames, which makes less power to the exhaust turbine so in the end it spins slower. A vacuum cleaner is powered by a constant source of electricity.
@TorpedoX if you watch the amount of smoke, i am pretty sure the A/F ratio is as rich as it can get, reducing the amount of air will of course also reduce the amount of exhaust gas, but the temperature will almost stay constant. For example: if you reduce the air by 1/2, the fire produces only 1/2 the amount of heat energy, but since there is only 1/2 air, it also needs only 1/2 amount of energy to heat up to the same temperature... Why not do the same thing as in real jet engines, they use up to 60% bypass air to keep the exhaust gas temperatures reasonably low. Just put a bypass pipe with a butterfly valve between the boost pipe and the square tube below the turbo, some of the bypass air will burn the remaining fuel in the exhaust gas, so the smoke is reduced and the rest of the fresh air will reduce the temperature...
@@muha0644 Unloading the compressor side by having it draw a vacuum spins up way faster than it takes for the tank pressure to drop. That can frag the turbo. They just need an interim pipe between the burn chamber and turbo to add a huge bleed or waste gate valve to drop and regulate the pressurization of the burn chamber. It wont load up with back-pressure or spool up excessively, it just needs to be allowed to vent. Since it's just for show and not much else, I'd guess they could have the burn chamber get by with 1/3 of the pressure the compressor could generate and it'd still keep spooled up nicely.
Going by others I've watched you get better control covering the front turbine over the ball valve. The best I seen was a large butterfly throttle body with spring return so as to use it from a distance with cable.
As a mechanical integrity engineer, I recommended you fabricate a door that is rounded like the your compressor tank. The bending forces due to the pressure on a flat door is massive. Also, the stress concentrations on 90 degree corners and edges where you transition from round to flat surfaces are massive. Exchange the huge bending stresses to hoop stresses on a curved door and she’ll be 10x stronger. Hence why pressure vessels are round cylinders and not square boxes. Secondly, a ball valve is not suitable for flow control, especially with high velocity compressible fluid (air). A gate valve will work much better.
I do believe you melted some steel!! 👌😀 Try different exhausts? Curvy twin pipes off an old motorbike could be interesting. Great work. Watch for shrapnel. 😎
I'm waiting for you guys to make the local news.....for one reason or another lol. I get this feeling that you guys aren't anywhere near far enough away. For those who have never seen a serious explosion of eg a vessel under extreme preasure and glowing white hot....you don't even see the shrapnel....it's just a blurr lmao
Hilarious entertainment! Very happy I found your channel. All the best with growing it. On the face of it, the 8mm plate you used seemed fine for that pressure but 2 things I thought you could change: 1. The holes which were oxy/acetylene cut were oversized. I realise drilling 12mm holes or whatever sized bolts you used is a pain in the ass but it will provide better clamping force considering the slop and the washers you used. 2. Something is going to fail. The system is not designed for long operation. However, if you want the door to not be the problem, I think you have to keep it cooler. I dont think it's expanding from the pressure alone but from the heat and the pressure (not an amazing insight, I grant you). What about insulating as much of the inside of the barrel, lid, bolts etc as possible with either an intumescent or refractory material. You may have fibre heat shields from the trucks (no idea, just a thought) or you might have to fork out for some. I'd definitely be putting in a better safety mechanism that can dump all that pressure and end the self-sustaining burn. Otherwise you will eventually create a bomb and 30 metres away in the shed may not be enough to keep all your limbs/life in tact. I look forward to seeing your nutter progress!!
Hey buddy cheers for the comment! The reason we cut the bolts is because the type of steel we used for the door is to hard to drill! Is bis steel 8mm plate we will start the twin turbo build and might have to use something bigger again
@@escapetheeveryday why did this run get so much hotter than the previous runs? and why was it able to essentially cutting-torch away the steel at the edge of the door? wouldn't the wood consume all the oxygen that is required for cutting? I'm trying to make my own project similar to this, but smaller scale, and a slightly different design, and I want to get those torch-like flames you got for a melting furnace.
For a boost gauge T off the charge line into a 200lt drum filled with water. Then a pipe up in the air 6 meters or higher with small holes every foot. The pressure will push the water up and out the holes for a good visual. If you turned the drum over. so the door was on the bottom were it doesn't get as hot,
Amazing! Keep going brother👍 I can't wait to see what a monster this thing will turn into, also, maybe turn the door around after use so the dent goes into the barrel, it should be able to resist the pressure better due to its profile
Nice to see the oil not needing pumped by hand. I don't know that you can honestly contain that much heat/energy without spending a ton of cash. I honestly expected far more damage to the door, it looked like a massive cutting torch at the end. Probably the only way to keep the door somewhat intact is to encase a layer of fire brick or high temp insulation like Kao wool. That turbo you used is popular pretty with the guys that make gas turbojet engines. I've been looking for one here in the states for a while for a jet engine project. That run was really insane, your wife was cracking me up lol
A combustor liner (like in a real gas turbine engine) could be the go. An inner barrel to hold the fuel, with cool air being fed in from outside. That way the pressure vessel is all relatively cool. A bit of a trickier construction, though.
I think it would be better to have the whole end of the tank open up, it would be alot stronger, ditch the "door" and weld the original piece back in. And route the intake tube in an angle so that it makes the air go round and round inside the tank, it will it burn alot hotter/better and also cools the sides of the tank
Once it’s pressurised under boost you then have pressure differentials across the turbo and combustion chamber that will effect the ‘swirl’ action you are trying to achieve. Such a crude device such as these, I do not think you can get the desired effect. I also thought of putting the charge pipe in front of the door blowing away from the door. It doesn’t matter, once boost builds, it will act on all surfaces in all directions more or less the same. You’ll still have high velocity jets of fire escaping between the joints I think.
Small leaks of hot gasses work like a Flame cutter. That‘s the way valves in an Engines burn out when they don‘t close all the way. Just make it tight and it‘ll work.
Also, interesting to see actual compressor stall. Radial compressors are generally design-limited to around 5bar outlet pressure (compression ratio of 5:1) so 2 turbochargers may produce 25 bar in series. (Ideal conditions, proper sizing, etc)
First off love this thing super fun to watch.. Last one of these type of contraptions I saw which was controlled used a valve to put hot exhaust back into the inlet essentially restricting o2 intake in that manner controlling the burn rate. Can't quite remember how they plumbed it but it seemed to work to control the take off of the turbo to a pretty good extent. As for my personal take on how to solve the "door" issue perhaps instead of trying to clamp the door internally you can move the pressure above the door piece. Essentially making a clamp with a threaded piece above it and using the bolts to push the door down with either another piece of bar stock. If threading is an issue you could clamp it with a simple hole and a nut but that is more fiddley.
Quality stuff chaps, thats hilarious. Probably the best version of these turbo burners ive seen yet... Maybe on the next run you could put a butterfly valve on the intake, or at least have a plank of wood ready to slap on the compressor intake for the emergency shutdown?!
@escape the everyday My suggestion for better control, probably a cleaner exhaust and cooler turbo would be to split the charge pipe before the valve with a Y or T pipe. Route the the new end through another valve and connect it to the turbo side of the tank. Around 1/4 to 1/3 of the distance from the end. That way you can control the amount of air going through the fuel and throttle it that way. The excess air will mix with the smoke so it might burn if the air velocity is low enough and also cool everything going into the turbo. I almost went through with building something similar my self may years ago. I got to the point of starting to acquire the parts needed but sadly I ran out of time and motivation before I got all the needed parts. The turbo I got is till on the shelf in the workshop awaiting a future project.
The hot air is a higher pressure than the cold air. All that will happen is that the hot air will recirculate back to the compressor wheel. This will lead to a more complete burn and HIGHER temperatures.
"Y" off a second pipe and valve from the charge side to send some of the charge air into the chamber closer to the turbine ('after' your door). This air won't get heated as much and will expand less, allowing better control. Also doesn't increase EGT like pre-compressor throttle will.
Just vent it to atmosphere with a wastegate. Y’all are over complicating this. All you have done is created an exhaust gas recirculation event. The hot air will simply back-feed into the inlet. This idea will make this bomb even more dangerous.
Exactly what I was thinking this has been done before many many years ago. You need secondary charge air for turbine cooling and less air going towards the fuel which will control the speed of the turbo. These guys have one running perfectly and the throttle the turbo with the primary burner air… watch and learn. m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E-8BX7dUk5c.html
i have watched with amazement that you got it running. and the first thing i seen that you put the oil return in to the combustion chamber. with the pressure in there this would have stopped the oil flowing but it was funny to see it blow up. good to see you changed that. the words from the girl saying why did it blow back out of the turbo. this called surge and this happened from closing of the valve you installed at the outlet of the compressor side of the turbo. this causes the turbo to reach it's max pressure and surge. you can control the inlet flow of the turbo to a point but if there is not enough flow the turbo will surge. as i see it the best way to control it is to bleed off air from the turbo before it is sent to the combustion chamber.
I wonder if adding some steel angle to the door as reinforcing ribs will help keep it from bending. Can also extend the intake to the turbo and add a ball valve or butterfly valve to the non charged air side to meter the air going into the turbo for throttling and quick shut down.
What a Ripper! Good job mate, that was a pretty fantastic burn u had there & it kept going. I love it! My guess is that the best placement & configuration for the fire door would be to make a smaller round (even slightly domed) door at the end of the cylinder just behind where ur fresh cooler air is coming into the burner, this will take a lot more pressure & the cooling air entering into the chamber will help to keep the door somewhat cooler as well. A dome shape would give extra strength to the fire door, which may not be necessary if you make the door much smaller, you could even make a heavy duty hinge & have fewer bolts to do up in a circular pattern around the door. There are a lot of things u could do to this wonderful contraption u have built to control it, but WTF, let her rip, you did good, & it makes me proud to be an Aussie. Cheers
Best outcome could be using water jacket around burn chamber and heat exchanger on exhaust and collecting the heat. Id imagine its probably in the range of 1MW of thermal energy.
You can strengthen the "door" by adding angle plate to the edges where the mounting bolts are and across the middle of the plate to keep it from bowing out from the pressure. Best to turn the plate upside down to make full use of the v shape to hold the door together when under pressure. This has been entertaining for sure to see the progress.
Add a compressor bleed valve like they have on jet engines. Probably the big ball valve would do, and then feed that into the combustion chamber right before the turbine inlet. That way you could control it from running away I think. and it should also keep the turbine cooler. If I'm right, that is, haha! :D Love the project by the way! Awesome!
If you need it to not overheat, combine a throttle(/wastegate) to save the turbo with injecting water, ideally after the burn chamber but always before the turbine. You could, for example, use the excess steam/exhaust mix through a second turbo who's compressor doesn't feed the barrel, but just does something cool on the side (wood barrel powered leaf blower?)
Relieving chamber pressure seemed to work pretty well for stopping it. A large ball valve on the top with a cable attached maybe as an emergency shut off?
Twin turbos, stainless bolts/nuts, as someone else has already suggested, reinforce door with bars running across it like beams under a deck. But obviously on outside burner.
A brass mist nozzle brazed to old brake line and spraying water into the turbo inlet when she goes hyper to bring her back in line. Copper pipe for the turbo oil line in and out, use a return feed for the oil with electric pump and large reservoir to slow how fast the oil heats up. A pwm (pulse width modulation) running a pulse pump feeding oil so once up to running temperature you can drip feed old oil with precise control.
For control, you should have something to choke the air inlet. Other turbo burn barrels use that and it looks to be working well. Would probably help avoid it blowing the door from over preasure. I'd love to see some angled air intakes on your output pipe, see if you can't get it to afterburn all those gases.
find an old cable throttle body at the scrapyard and find a long cord or cable. really nice control on that vs the ball valve. run hardlines from the drain, feed, and reference ports. and id also like to see a compound setup on it. you could also try and make a cooling jacket for the door to keep it from melting, or keep that as a "safety feature"
That thing is AWESOME 👌 👏!!!!😃... Maybe try a whole new tank design that has the opening only at one end. Additionally, a door that self seals from the inside out under pressure may work as well 😀 Good luck 👍🏽 and thanks for the entertainment 👏❣️👏❣️
I've been very interested to see a compound boosted setup so it doesn't take so long to spool it up via compressed air or Leaf blower. As for the door, following the Contours of the tank would be best in my opinion. Seems to me you're creating uneven pressure points inside the container.
Just a thought for safety, perhaps you can direct a water line toward the turbo intake that you could use to quench the fire if things go really sideways. The control valve could be well out of range of danger. If the fire is so hot that you are melting the retaining bolts, you may want to consider wedges outside the firebox. This is fun stuff! BTW, I'm watching your videos from North America.
build it like a typical combustor can in a jet engine where the pressure vessel doesn't take the heat because there is an inner liner with a layer of cooling air between them. All it might need to be is a sheet of metal that you slide back before you bolt the door on. Edit: Inject the air in to the center of the door and have a deflector plate that acts as a heat shield making the air flow over the back of the door before exiting at the edges.
Perforated internal shell that holds the fuel. Don't know how the pressures work out, but maybe some air can be diverted into the turbine side to keep the exhaust temp down. If the pressures don't allow that, maybe an intercooler?
There's a guy in Tassie who built one and he uses a metal plate on the turbo inlet as a throttle. That way there's vacuum on the compressor side when you throttle it and it stays spooled up. He seemed to have heaps of control
Something you might be able to do to keep the hot side of the turbine from melting under load is by making a compressor bleed air cooling circuit. Basically you tap some of the compressed air from the compressor side and route it around the hot side for cooling. You lose a bit of power but then again you also lose all of your power if the turbine melts. Aircraft jet engines use bleed air for cooling all sorts of things, mostly for cooling the hot section of the engine though.
You could try lining the entire inside, including the lid, with fire bricks and/or refractory cement. A couple of wastegates mounted on the small up pipe into the turbo should help control the boost and you could use something like a slide mounted on the intake of the compressor housing. This will also give you the ability to completely shut it down by starving it of air/oxygen.
4:22 the point of it was it was absolutely AWESOME seing a turbo being used in that way ! 😀 . Edit..... i think you should do the same again but seal the door better . It looked like it was leaking sparks early on, so once its found a little hole thats it.... . itl rip it wide open
you need a bypass with valve from the boost input to the turbo output, it can then mix cooler air with the exhaust and reduce the temperature of the hot side of your turbo charger. if you want to increase boost and cool, you can, inject water in to the pipe in between the burn chamber and turbo, it will turn in to steam instantly and increase boost and cool the turbo as well.
Curious as to what kinda drive pressure the turbo is seeing, wonder if dual wastegate on the tank side of the turbo would bleed enough pressure to be able to control turbo.
Hey guys, pretty fun couple of videos. I've got a quick and dirty idea to try to stop the door blowing out as badly... So here's my thinking: from the look of the sparks during the failure and what I could see of the damage I'm guessing the studs didn't actually melt, but that the gas had free oxygen (lean burn) at that point, and that the steel of the studs actually oxidised/burned and then let go. I reckon the problem with the plate bending is that it's too weak and that it's getting hot and softening. So my solution has two parts: 1: weld some stainless angle inside the door hole to make a kind of wall around the stud holes with the horizontal leg of the angle coming inwards. Then get some stainless sheet which you can flop through the door hole and rest on the lip of the angle. You don't need any of this to really seal to anything else, it's just so that there's a bit of a windshield below the door so it doesn't have hot gas rushing past it. 2: stitch weld some flat bar going the short way across the door to make stiffeners/cooling fins. Should help keep the door itself cooler and prevent it from bending. 3: fill and light as normal, flop stainless sheet in to shield the door, bolt door down. Note: the stainless won't burn so much, the thickness is not really important: I reckon a couple of millimetres would be plenty thick. Good luck guys, and try not to kill yourselves eh?
put some heat-sink style fins on top of the door and then also route the intake of the turbo so it sucks fresh air through there. provides rigidity and cooling at once.
I'd suggest angling or directing the heat flow away from the flat plat of the door. In the video, you can see the path of the fire. Weld a thick angle plate/baffle at the top of the back barrel, in front of the door and direct the heat to flow under the door/back flat plate assembly and not directly into the wall of it. That might cut down on the cutting torch you are creating on the welded seam and give you a smoother air flow through the chamber.
How about a Y pipe after the turbo with a valve? That way you are relieving pressure rather than trying to restrict it. That or maybe find a way to restrict the air from the intake side... I would also look into using a cable or steel wire to pull the relief valves remotely and maybe create a Venturi valve hooked to a water source that you can turn on to extinguish the fire if it's getting too hot.
Having a failure point such as the door is actually a good thing for safety. If you could add a smaller door with bolts that melt at a lower temperature or will shear off at a specific pressure, that might help prevent the whole thing becoming a giant bomb if it builds up too much pressure and the main vessel fails.
You can use the waste gate to control the boost pressure, tap it into the charge pipe, This should work if you have enough charge pressure. You could also connect to shop air and use it as a throttle of some sort or safety shut down.
Here is a thought. On the boost pipe put in a t with a ball valve that goes to atmosphere and try to regulate the pressure that the tanks sees by reliefing it to atmosphere. As you probably already know it's on refeed so desnse air going in makes fire hotter produces more gas spins turbo fast ect.. so to limit or throttle it you need to be able to control the amount of boost the fire box sees
The pressure relief valve is a good indicator of how much pressure ur reaching but from other videos I’ve seen it will not bleed off pressure as fast as the fire builds pressure. But it’s good to know ur not going over 200 psi.
A good way to regulate that thing is to take a smaller "surge" tank and pipe it into the turbo inlet then put several spring loaded (varying strengths) air stoppers going into the surge tank... essentially the more air it pulls the less air it gets and it forces it to stabilize...you will need to drill a few holes in the surge tank to make sure the air doesn't backflow from the fire tank into the compressor...or pipe a drive-by-wire throttle plate into the surge tank and then pipe that into the turbo...that way you can remotely control the amount of air it get
A boost gauge and or a air flow meter would be nice to see what kind of boost / flow the turbo is putting out. I kinda think to "help" control the power is a blow off valve or external waste gate of some sort. I think that it needs to keep the air flow to stay "on top" of the turbo but instead of choking the air to/from the turbo it might just to bleed out the extra boost. Probably with a gate valve or something with lots of turns to open a close the valve, so you can better fine tune the boost. Also with the lid a new plate obviously... but now also with support ribs/ braces in key areas to keep it from expanding and breaking the bolts loose.
need to weld something with a grove on the stove for a wood stove rope seal. then weld square tubing on lid to reinforce it and it will also deflect heat from bolts and rope seal. If it sealed better it wouldn't get the blow torch effect as heat passes by the bolts and escapes. plus will build better boost if it sealed better. 😝 Awesome project. 👍🏻👍🏻
It was blowing back because as the compressor just started to build pressure, the air that compressor pumped hot hot pretty fast, creating more pressure than compressor was building momenterally, pushing the air back creating compressor surge
If you want to mitigate the door issues, it's the combination of heat and pressure that blows it out. If you make a smaller combustion chamber inside of the tank that holds the firewood, it gives the air around it room to circulate and cool the combustion gases before they enter the turbine, and keeps them away from the walls. Right now you have flames coming out the stack, meaning the turbine wheel is going to be crazy hot and it will melt or the shaft will fail sooner or later like it did with the other one.
Divert the heat away from the door, by installing a second "insulating" plate below only connected with a few studs. the door needs bracing at the edges and over the center. Weld flat bar around and as cross over the enter. Then fill that with water.
High pressure gas of some sort to spool up the turbos fast. Co2, argon, nitrogen. What ever you have around the shop. And something to control the fresh air coming into the turbo to help throttle them.
A non intercooled turbo is capable of a pressure ratio of 2.5-3:1. You are then heating this air with fire. That is likely another 3:1 expansion ratio. This WILL increase the internal pressure. You are likely playing with a pressure increase of something like 7:1-9:1. 14.7psi (ambient air) x 9= 135psig. 135psig - 14.7 = 120psi. Go to eBay. Buy a $40 60mm wastegate and weld it to the intake tube. Put a 30psi spring in it. This will limit the intake air charge to somewhere in the 20-30psi range and limit total system pressure to 60-90psi. If it still destroys itself go down to a 24psi spring.
A progressive dump valve might be an option. That would limit the air in without a back pressure issue. As for the door, maybe switch to 13mm AR plate and clamps instead of the bolts. That way you have more metal before you reach the fasteners.
Raw display of theory and efficiency raw power… build something that’ll run full out and not destroy itself and you can basically power anything else 😂 and it’s 🤩 fun
insulation inside like a brick oven may help ? (the round shape, line with these bricksmay work without additional mounting) and split the incomming air to different injection points behind those bricks, may keep the metal coat cooler , and improve combustion
The best way for throttling is a bypass valve between the boost pipe and the turbine inlet(square tubing below the turbo) the fresh air mixed with the hot exhaust lowers the temperature at the turbine wheel and keeps it from melting, it also doesn't interrupt the airflow through the compressor wheel and therefore provides some braking force, so the rpm don't get too high. It is also necessary to cool the turbo down before it gets stopped, otherwise the oil in the bearings gets overheated and it turns into coal which will destroy the bearings very quickly, the cooling procedure should be something like this: take a leaf blower and start its engine, then close the shutoff valve in the boost pipe while the bypass valve is wide open and immediately blow air into the turbo intake until the turbo is cooled down at least to approx 300-400°C. The fire will slowly extinguish while you cool the turbo because all the air bypasses the fire and it goes only straight through the turbo. You can leave your current throttle valve as it is, it will now work as a shutoff valve to stop the air flowing through the wood, you may also connect a long rope to the valve handle, so you can use the rope as an emergency shutoff. You can even make the bypass valve self regulating if you connect the valve to a spring loaded piston which gets actuated by the boost pressure, if the pressure gets high the bypass opens and if the pressure drops, the bypass closes.
I am a little bit skeptical about this approach. I am not really sure it would protect the turbo much. By doing this you are redirecting oxygen through the hot turbine which could potentially melt the turbine. The exhaust seems to be fuel rich so adding more oxygen has the potential to increase temperatures. If you have ever used an oxy acetylene torch you can actually still cut by turning off the acetylene once the steel is hot enough.
Are you sure about the bypass valve between the boostpipe and the turbine? I am not an expert by any means at least not in the field of turbochargers but from the smokey exhaust coming out of the turbine you can clearly see that the combustion is quite fuel rich, which makes it a relatively cool exhaust. Although letting cool air into the turbine to cool it might seem like a good idea, i think it could actually do more harm then good, because you are introducing fresh oxigen to the hot not completely burned exhaust gasses which could heat up the turbine even more/ react with the hot metall inside the turbine causing it to disintegrate. Please correct me if im wrong
@@dakotaadra1044 yes, the exhaust is fuel rich and the bypass air will burn the remaining fuel, so if you add just a little bit of bypass air, it may increase the temperature slightly, but as soon as there is more bypass air than what's needed to burn the remaining fuel, the temperature will decrease. So it just increases the efficiency and makes it burn cleanly without smoke, and as long as you throttle it down, the temperature will be significantly lower. The oxygen in the exhaust gas does not harm the turbo, diesel engines always have oxygen rich exhaust, it can even be pure hot air if the engine is at high rpm and you throttle down... By the way, the bypass also makes the turbo produce more thrust, so it may be possible to mount the whole thing on wheels, add a seat and go for a ride!
@@qubie1448 real jet engines are doing almost exactly the same to keep the exhaust temperatures reasonably low, there is also more air flowing through the turbine than what's needed to burn the fuel the only difference is the way of throttling, a jet engine has basically a fixed amount of bypass air and it gets throttled down by reducing the amount of fuel, but since that is not really possible when burning wood, adjusting the bypass air should give the same result... While writing the previous sentence, i had an idea to further improve the bypass: one butterfly valve in the bypass and another butterfly valve in the boost pipe, both interconnected with a rod, so if the bypass opens, the boost pipe gets closed, so it basically also reduces the amount of fuel by burning the wood slower and gives the ability to control the throttle all the way from 0% to 100%...
@@Henning_S. It increases the efficiency in the way that all the fuel burns up but adding so much extra air that it cools the exhaust gas will definitely decrease thrust because cooler gas expands less therefore less exhaust speed. Also no turbo that big gets that hot in a normal environment so oxygen wont have that big of an effect on them.
You have to make a valve on the air inlet to the turbo. Then u can use that as a throttle. I’d also hardline a drain. The charge pipe into the chamber should also come in parallel with the tank, it’s aimed at the door right now and that’s what causing your door to melt down.
You should have a cable moving your ball valve from a distance, so you can throttle it without being close. You should put a compound turbo system as well !
