Had to do intake manifold gasket myself while still in the car was definitely the most difficult thing I've done so far took 6 hours all up 🤣🤣 but great video mate very helpful
Hey man! So you can just run petrol set up on a green top and don’t have to change valves or anything? I’m asking cos I wanna put a green top on my petrol na xr6 haha thanks
New to working on Barras (although I've had a couple of BA's and a Territory). Your videos have been awesome, loving the deep dives and the attention to detail. Wouldn't have been able to put together my current build without you! Keep it up mate, cheers.
Considering this is probably one of the few lpg factory 'performance' engines would you consider reviewing the lpg system.. and it's limitations. I can forsee lpg systems being used in performance applications more often.
@@carpenter2410ify Thread tape was only used on the tapered thread side of those AN fittings and not on the AN flare thread. All my fittings are from Raceworks and InTune Motorsport and nothing is leaking. No need for apologies.
No issues with the Crow valve springs at all, they're still in my old red top. motor. The domintor springs were significantly cheaper so i wanted to give them a try!
Thanks for watching! Had to modify k frame, make a bracket for the accelerator pedal, needed an AU bellhousing for the auto, had to cut out a rib on the bonnet as it hits rocker cover. Fair bit to do but its worth it 👍
Access with those 'fat ratchet spanners was overcome by looking around for old- school on the cheap ring spanners on the barra just hunt for the specific sizes shocking locations. In the day mechanics used valve lapping grit for m- cycle case sealing , might have helped when finishing off the final seal , just rubbing the fitting parts together . Enjoyed watching the video again thanks .
Hey man are these green top engine running on 98 or E85? I don’t want the hassles of E85 with one of my builds as I don’t plan to drive it all the time and don’t want the hassles of chasing up E85 every time I want to drive it
I used the exact tool to change valve springs , the cut out sockets that comes in the kit need to be linnished at their backside for clearance , they hit the cyl head towers. And the washers supplied for the M6 bolts are just rubbish , you need to use 3mm thick washers. Other than that all good.
Using an MLS headgasket instead of the original ford single layer gasket. I threw some replacement rod bearings in but the headbolts and pump gears are still stock for now. Thanks for watching!
Just another tip for the people out there. You can feed some rope into the spark plug hole to prevent the valves dropping while the retainers are out. No special air fittings required. 😉
@@EverythingFuzzY beautiful exactly the same as mine, would you mind writing a complete parts list for myself and any others interested? ill 100% rent a garage and get this done at some stage. cheers, love all the videos!
just remove the Turbo brace or you turn the bottom left a top right stud into grade 8 bolts with tread tight then they lined up with an extension and socket
