Kinda similar. Have to spread the chassis apart enough to pop out the motor assembly. There is a special tool made for that. You can use 2 small screwdrivers wedged in-between the motor magnets and chassis sides. Once you have the motor out it's pretty obvious although you can get a special tool for holding the the motor brushes away from the commutator on the front end bell removal/installation procedure. Rear end bell removal just means remove the pinion gear and it slides off the armature shaft. Considering the front end bell design it's actually easier than a 440X2.
Hi. Until I looked at this video, I never tried to disassemble a 440 chassis. Thankyou so much for providing all the necessary information along with the proper tools. I do however have a question. What do you do with the stock parts that you don't use in your rebuilds? Would any of those items be available for purchase?
Awesome vid. Never knew the 9v battery trick!! My only confusion is the magnets. My childhood cars are in pieces. Is there a way to know what magnets go where?
What happens when there's to much play in armiture. Great vid wish I would have watched it a year ago!! Lol. On the tires can u cut jelclaws like that? Thanks again
Cars will run with sloppy armature spacing but it affects gear mesh. Just about any sort of slip-on style tire can be cut this way. The real key is the oiled blade.
can you swap in upgraded traction magnets, without having to take the entire chassis apart? I just want to upgrade the traction magnets, but being an AFX guy, I only have 1 Tyco chassis and I have very little experience with them. mostly get turned off dealing with the pickup shoe springs, my hands and old eyes always have trouble just replacing a pickup shoe on them.
I got some Tyco turbo Hopper that I believe are 440. Your video helps me a lot, but I don´t know how to disassembly the body from the frame. This cars come with front and rear spring suspension and body doesn´t seem to be attached with frame by the middle of the body. Thank you
@@riggenracer I share my worries with some others slot car lovers who gave me instructions to successfully take off the body from the frame. I follow their advice and now I'm able to do it with some others I own
So bought an aurora tomy set and the body are off the chassis. I cant figure out how the body goes back onto the chassis. Anyone have anything on that. Is there another clip Im missing perhaps?
www.scaleengineering.com/Product%20Pages/TirePuller1.htm www.scaleengineering.com/Product%20Pages/TirePress1.htm Yes, you can do it without them but you need to create some way to insure that the axle remains precisely aligned with the hub while you are pressing it on. You can use pliers and some very square spacing blocks (very awkward) or another way is to use a small vise. Coming up with a way to maintain alignment during the pressing action is the important part. Secure part holding is the trick.
Here's the info video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-380a_7X7wTk.html Here's the link to buy: shop.hcslots.com/Controllers-Accessories-Tools/Viper-Scale-Racing-Motorbrush-Endbell-Key-p535.html These are real cheap but honestly you don't need to buy one. You can bend up a large paper clip to do the job. It's not hard.
I'M looking for tune up kits for the magnum 440. Went to a hobby shop in Memphis TN today. No luck. Where i live there is no hobby shop's close by. So I need some help here. If there is anyone that can help me please pm me thank you.
