How do you not have more views , this is the most detailed/breakdown K series build I've ever seen and I watched a ton....I can't wait to use your videos to build my K series :)
I’m a former Honda Tech. We use 12 inch magnetic tool holder for holding the rockers. Lay them across the cam journals and flic the rockers up to the holder. Also use some tape on the magnetic side so not to scratch the rockers. Hope this helps anyone pulling their hair out fighting those rockers.
I wanna give you a huge thanks for the tip with the timing tensioner. I had no idea you could physically move it back more and I was wondering why I couldn’t get my tensioner on. You’re the only one I got this tip from. Thank you again!!
This is very cool! I'm an amateur car repair guy (definitely not a mechanic) and I love learning about car engines. To date, I've only learned to replace/repair parts around the engine but your video motivated me to take my skills further. I love this stuff! Thanks!
I'm a retired toolmaker/machine builder with over 40 years experience and this is the first time I've had the chance to view one of your videos. You use very sound and logical build procedures and for a young man I'm impressed with how you work. I look forward to future Honda videos from you. Keep up the good work. I have an '02 and '07 Honda Civic coupes and look forward to acquiring an '12 to '14 Civic SI.
The 2012 model should be avoided. A 2013 - 2015 Civic Si or 2013 - 2015 Acura ILX are the final versions of the manual transmission high output K24Z cars. The Acura ILX needs a l.s.d. installed. I recommend the ILX for its overall refinement.
I know its been years since you made this video but Appreciate your video series sir👍🏾, gave me alot of confidence in getting the timing chain replaced on my kseries engine, keep up the awesome work 🤙🏽🤙🏽
I needed this. Bought a Integra last month and will replace timing chain. Never did this before and will attempt to do it without removing the engine. You're vids are great. +1 sub
You always have to remember that without the rockers in place that the valves are completely closed and that the springs can only compress down and never up (because of the keepers of course). So minimal clearance is needed between the heads of the rockers and any other stationary parts of the motor. In this case the design of the K20/24 engine has offset spark plug ports/tubes.
Greatest problem from oil pump cavitation is the excess heat caused by the vapor or as you said "bubbles" which cause hot spots in various parts of the motor. One of the best ways to avoid this is to install an oil cooler thus your oil doesn't run the risk of boiling at the higher temperatures and lose most (if not all of its viscosity).
Man sorry if I'm blowing you up dude but I discovered your channel after getting my EP3 and I'm been watching your videos episode after episode until I fall asleep man.
If that arrow is pointing up on the crank, it can only be at top dead center. This isn't a cam that spins at 1/2 speed of the crank. I understand wanting to be sure, but if the arrow is up, you are at TDC.
It must be remembered that the purpose of the chain tensioner is to allow some floating of the chain so the tensioner plunger will more in and out slightly when the engine is running, meaning that the tension on the chain WILL not remain constant, otherwise this would defeat the whole idea of a "chain tensioner".
Thanks for the videos there very informative I have been watching several this morning I'm an old dog looking for something more interesting than the domestic rides I have owned the power to weight very nice.
Just a suggestion. If the failsafe key is not a four way fit to the keyways on the crankshaft and the crankshaft gear maybe it should be to further insure the engine stays in time. That way the key can not roll, plus if there is any side key wear, which normally there is, again the engine will stay in time.
That's funny you said about the marks on the chain not lining up. I asked you in your last timing video about that. And I just broke my crank pulley tonight on my car! Thinking about going with the ATI
The A2 Pump is better than the Type S pump, the parasitic loss comes from the balance shafts that can be deleted. The PRB Type S Pump still needs the oil pan. The Type S pump needs modifications even to just hit 9k RPM reliably. The A2 does not need modification for 9k RPM, and just needs a spring and a port job for 10k Engine RPM. When you block off the balance shaft oil port from the A2 you get another boost in oil pressure. The main thing with the Type S is that it is an "easier" mod not that it is necessarily better. Baffle pan on a K24 pump reduces the frothing at high RPM that would cause a drop in oil pressure at high RPM. At low RPM you are going to lose oil pressure on a K20 pump because of the gear size.
Awesome u making this video I just got a better Transmission for my 09 Civic si my 3rd gear set went out was fixing to fix it but got this deal on this Transmission so got it then dropped my transmission and etc and decided since I was down this far I need to do wat I want to do so just got k24a2 switched heads with mine k20Z3 even know this motor only had 43,000 miles on it went with new chain and got whole kit for swap with chain and etc put s2000 oil pump on k24a2 everything bolted back up to car and etc and thank God for k tuner v2 I am going to change out the motor mounts tommorow and I am goin to set my rpm between 7,800 to 8,000 and car felt good but I could fell some of the motor mounts were giving some so that's why I am fixing the motor mounts tommorow. Love how much better the car fells down low on Rpm just cruising
I have the chain guard, K20Z3 longer top guide, Skunk 2 tensioner, and it still skipped two teeth! Don't say it won't skip teeth, because one of two things will happen. The chain will stretch and skip teeth. Or in my case, it will shear off the OEM cam gear teeth and skip. My Skunk 2 cams were the cause, luckily I checked it before it caused any further damage.
At the 26:00 mark, when you have the two ratchets on the cams, are you loosening and tightening the bolts on each and verifying that they stay in time? Also, what point of reference are you using for the top marks to stay at 12 o'clock?
on k24 timing the dot is between the chain link and on k20 the dot is under a link.so in a k24 motor(k24 bottom end) there would be 8 chain links between the dots.and i a k20 engine short block there would be nine links between the two dots.i hope his helps some one. so the k20 and k24 have slight difference in getting the timing right.plus the k24 timing chain is longer than k20 because its block is taller than k20. lot of info over net
When that pointer is aligned with the sprocket on the crank #1 cylinder is up. There is no 180 degrees out. You are referring to the cams in relation to the crank.
yes, I kinda wish people who don't REALLY understand what they are doing, didn't try to teach it.. for readers who also don't really understand yet, it can be another head fuck on the road to success...
What is your total build cost? If you get time after the build is complete you should get a video out with a breakdown of rough price estimates. Optional vs required parts. Would help us budget for these builds. Ive said it before and ill say it again, the detail in these videos are second to none.
I wish i had a buddy like you who could help me do my timing chain in my rsx. Ive been trying to find someone to do the timing chain for like a year and i don't trust myself to attempt it.
I just snapped half of the plastic under the upper chain guide with the valve cover on the K20A6 EU motor while installing back the valve cover. I guess I can use any kind of K-series upper guide, longer is better, but what are the torque specs on the two bolts/screws that you left loose? You didn't show this in your vid and if you can let me know it will be great. Thanks.
2 questions.. vtc rattle.. is there a new spring we can get to replace with or need a new vtc. How did you go with the tensioner? You reccomend it? I just purchased a skunk2 one. Yet to be installed
What is the significance of the dot being between the two gold links. I would think it would make a difference. Is it for future when checking to see if timing jump a tooth?
lol, doesnt matter top dead center or not , even if you move it over or whatever then you risk another being at top dead center, your always gonna have one at or near top dead center, but Yes just be careful and dont froce anything ! Damn Buddy you used enough assembly lube to put together 10 heads ! If you got it like that send me some assembly lube ! good video
K24a timing question Hi there , Looking for some clarification before I make a mess of things . I have a K24a3 with out a timing chain when I got it , I want to put a new chain , oil. Pump etc . This is my first small engine and is it as simple as finding TDC like the old days , the reason I ask is in The Honda manual it’s says “ do not move crank without the chain Installed” I have no idea if it has been turned over without the chain or not ? Any advice is most welcome 🙏
great video would it be okay if i used the k20a2 upper chain guide? also what headgasket do you use on k24/k20 im doing a stock block jdm k24a with a prb k20a2 head? thanks again great video!
Yooo lost the two bolts that go on the end of the rocker assembly. The two that sit under the cam sensor side.. lol what are those called and will any bolt work as long as it fits and goes all the way down.. I like the hardware u have where did u get those!!
I’ve heard of a couple guys motors going because of that modified crank gear. That long tooth snapped and the rest goes on. Now idk to get the modified crank trigger wheel or stay oem
Just want to put this out there the baffle that you put on your engine runs from side to side across the engine which would be the opposite way you would need for it to keep stuff from sloshing around inside I'm just saying
Quick question. If I forgot to put that bead of rtb on tha back on block when you set the rockers how important is that? Am I fucked? I already did timing and the timing cover already. Please lmk thanks.
I have a 90 crx, originally i was gonna swap in a b18 and convert to obd1, I have since changed my mind and decided on a k series, can I still use obd1 or will it have to be obd2? Thank You, Pete Cummins
how has that inline pro tensioner been for you bro? jus installed one on this motor and it was the exact way your was kind of have to force it into its place
timing chain from k24 and oil pump chain from k20 I am assuming? Also, when you ordered the baffle, did you request one made for K20 since you now have the K20 pump?
25:08 if you do everything as explained and still cant get the timing right make sure to get a new timing chain if you are trying to time it with a used timing chain... i almost got brain cancer trying to figure out why i couldnt time that thing, bought a new timing chain and compared it with my used one and found out a difference of 1 tooth being longer from previous owner (he badly raped the engine)... Also want to ask, my engine has being overheated many times and badly in the past but still runs like knew (except oil consumption etc) do you think would be a good idea to rebuild it? I ve heard something that if an engine gets overheated it can get seized... any ideas and tips are welcome :) 28:49 also really important is to have the right side of the timing chain being fully stretched, while having the marks of timing correctly lined up, if you have slack on right side of timing chain this is OUT of timing... cant stress this enough...
if the engine has overheated a couple times and hasnt given you any problems yet dont touch it. I would highly recommend inspecting it but only when you are ready because if you tear the motor apart and find the head warped a little then you will be spending a good amount to get it repaired correctly.
