Thanks Edward. That was a good, clear explanation of something I always found quite confusing & had difficulty remembering the right way to go. The side with the higher gauge value needs to have the linkage lengthened & the equal+opposite adjustment on the other side.
Great vid bud just joined your channel we speed run only but I’ve been using your set up tips in are effort to go straight and fast H and w racing channel
Great video. Just looking at the video and how you were adjusting the bar, doing the opposite to the other sway kept putting you in the same position from when u started. By just lowering or raising one side would have gotten you the results you were looking for on first try. “Measure twice, cut once.”
I normally use this method but with more weight (arms and transmission connected). With less weight the other side are going to go up more reactive so yo get less precision.
I agree with your method, this is also better. More weight on arms and fully assembled car is better to do adjustment with. The weight difference in each side and friction differences also need to be take into account.
Yes, it can. Even straight out of the package. You should always test and make sure the roll bar is tweak free. You can do this by placing the roll bar on a flat piece of glass.
where did you get the plexiglass plate, does it matter how high or low the ends of the anti roll bar are set at? thanks great informative video like allways.
The plexiglass is a chassis tweak plate by a company called TN Racing. The roll bar ends will be slightly different in length. The most important thing is to make sure the roll bar is tweak free.
This method IS precise... Until you put all upper arms and other parts on the car. Then the weight difference and difference in friction on parts on left to right for each arm will again be different and you need to adjust it again. I bet it will be off when the car is fully assembled without tires and you retake the measurement.
