Upgrading the Rear End with a new Quick Performance Diff Package! 

Glad you enjoyed it!

Awesome, thanks!!

Thank you! 👍

Thanks!

Awesome, thanks for sticking around! :)

Thanks!!

Glad you liked it!

Thanks 👍

Thanks! You're video is going to be awesome, I'm looking forward to it!

Thanks! We're gonna need a video or two of your project. I'm sure you've gotten quite a bit done, it would be cool to see a progress update! :)

Thanks 👍

I toyed with doing 3.80, but I just didn't want to give up the mild RPMs on the highway. Although, the stop light challenge would have been more fun. :)

Yeah, I'm glad I got this one done relatively quick, it'll give me more time to enjoy it! :)

That's going to be a nice upgrade to your car!! :)

Thanks! It wasn't a large discount, but it was nice to save a few bucks. In the end, I imagine Quick Performance will do better on this video than me, but that's ok, I still appreciate them willing to work with me and my small channel. :)

Thanks! This is a great mod and the install can be done my most with a few tools. With the exception of the actual installation of the Diff, Ring Gear, and the Pinion into the third member (which most people would take to a shop to do), this is a fairly easy part to swap out. I am real happy with this particular kit (that's why I bought it again for this car), but I'm wondering if I should have done 3.80 gears instead. I have the luxury of that Overdrive gear in my trans, so absorbing a shorter rear gear is easy for me to do. If you have a C4 or the factory manual trans, you may not want to go any shorter than 3.55 gears. :)

Yes I have the 4 speed top loader. 3.55 is my thought too. I am going to get the entire pumpkin professionally assembled, I think I can handle everything else

Not to sound stupid, but I have a 65 fastback with a 4 speed top loader. I think it’s the original rear end. What would doing a mod like this do for the car?

Go for it!

The AOD would be a nice upgrade. Double check the fitment, I heard that some people need to slightly modify their car to get them to fit. 🙂

@AndyKruseChannel I think I may have to do the drive shaft, but I can live with that. I definitely will be doing more research tho

Tempting....... pass.

Thanks! It seems like only the parts I want are on backorder, everything else seems to be in stock. :)

Cool, QP makes great stuff. Enjoy!

How did the 4.11 work out? I think my t5 has a 3.27 1st gear so I got a 3.55 rear. I was afraid 1st gear would be a granny gear.

@@chrisdavis4545 It did not work as planned. I ended going back to the 2.79 gear set after playing with the 4.11s for about 2 months. My highway RPMs were to high for my liking with the 4.11s. I kind of knew this before swapping gears but stop light to stop was fun. I have 2 center sections so I just swap between the two when I get bored with one. I have the T5z version and it has a 2.95 1st gear and it was useless.

There are moments when I'd like the simplicity of an Auto, but banging through the gears just puts a bigger smile on my face. I feel your pain on the high rpms, hopefully that T5 is not too far in your future. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel I am a big city driver in heavy traffic most of the time so an automatic with low gears works well. Might move to a smaller town with wide open road. T5 would make more sense then so no rush....

Awesome, thanks for the feedback! That 331 in these light cars is a mean combo! :)

@@AndyKruseChannel YOU'RE WELCOME

Thanks! If you go to 3.55 gears, you'll see roughly an 18% increase in RPMs at your normal highway speed, probably somewhere around 500 RPM more. If that is manageable for you, the quicker offline speed may be worth the swap. Plus, you'll get the added bonus of the LSD if you add that too. :)

Unfortunately that wasn't part of the deal. I am working with another Vendor right now to do a discount code, but that video won't be out for a bit. If it's in the budget, go for the upgrade on the Pinion and Ring Gear, like what I have in my car. :)

They're Quick Jacks, purchased them from Costco for $1k. They are a great alternative for those that need about 2ft of clearance, but don't have the funds or space for a regular Lift. They work best if you need access to the front or rear of the car, but anything in the middle is limited as you can only enter from the front or rear of the car. For example, you have limited space to do transmission work with these jacks, so I oft for regular jackstands when I'm working in those areas. They're not any faster to setup and lift the car than using a regular floor jack and jackstands, but it's a decent alternative for those looking for more ground clearance. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel oh right on. Ya they are definitely nice to get her up a little higher 👍

Thanks! My Differential guy said I did not need them, nor did I need the paper gasket that came in the kit. He said just use the Ultra-Black Gasket Maker and call it a day. I did essentially the same rear end on my last Mustang and there were no leaks. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Good to know! If I ever open mine back up I probably won't bother with them either. They are also a real pain to chisel off during disassembly.

Haha, no, I too can make the wheels hop. I've thought about 5 leafs (instead of the 4.5 I have now), thinking it might be enough to reduce the hop. The issue I have are the bottom leaf plates are special for my Panhard bard, so installing standard traction bars is almost a no-go. I haven't figured out what I'm going to do yet. :)

I paid $300 for the assembly of the pumpkin. 4.11 would fantastic if I didn't live out of town. I'm wondering if I should have done 3.80 gears, maybe down the road some day. :)

No, they were fine. But those bearings weren't, so I had my Diff Guy replace them while he did the third member upgrade. :)

Awesome! I got this puller off ebay, just type in Axle Puller and you should be able to find a kit that fits your budget. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Excellent, and Merry Christmas!

The ring gear and diff are both upgraded, and can take the power I will be making. The next weak link in that assembly are the axles, but as long as I don't spend my afternoons doing 5k clutch drops, they'll be fine. It's actually the torque rating that we should be looking at. HP is just a number derived from Torque, and torque is the force exerted on components like the driveline and axles. A sudden introduction of torque to any rotating part on these cars will takes its toll over time, and the higher the torque the faster the degradation of that part. I am near the threshold of torque I can make with the parts on my car. If I want to turn up the juice (making more torque) or I want to spend all my time putting that torque to the trans and rear end, I will eventually need to upgrade parts. I'm ok with that, I just gotta figure out how to convince the Boss we need more parts for the car. :)

Haha, thanks! The Cam will likely come with the motor build. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Damn, I was hoping to see an in car install. Could use a good video before I tackle mine.

I think they're a great alternative for those that can't afford or don't have the space for a traditional lift, as long as they only want to work on the front end or rear end of the car. While there's not much going on in the middle section of a car, the placement of the QuickJacks make it impossible to access the middle under side of the car from the side, you'd have to access it from either end of the car. In some circumstances that may not be a big deal, or the available access is sufficient, but an issue nonetheless. Beyond that, there's 2 feet of clearance once lifted into the air, more than enough room to remove a transmission, rear axle removal, and in some cases maybe enough room to pull an engine from below. The largest advantage these offer is the height and relative space available under the front of the car to service most tasks an owner would need to do. With our cars (specifically the 65-66 Mustang), the pickup point is pretty far inboard (the subframe rails) and therefore the space between each jack is a little tight. I can barely get my creeper between them, and it begins to create a tight space that I'm not a fan of. In turn, this means the ingress/egress of the middle section of the car is very limited, but that is not usually an issue since there's little going on in the middle of the car, as I mentioned early. On more modern cars the pickup point is near the sides of the car, creating much more usable space under the middle section of the car. The stability is good, and the build quality appears to be plenty good enough for the rated weight limit. The pump speed is fine, probably about as fast as a traditional lift in inches per second of lift. I wish the hydraulic hoses were a little more flexible, but now I'm just splitting hairs. Outside of the lack of access from the side of the car, the only other issue is the setup time. These take longer to move, position, and lift the car compared to traditional jack stands. I have mine hanging on the wall, so getting them down (they're kind of heavy), and rolling them into position, sliding them under the car, placing the pads in the correct spot, lifting them a little to make sure the pads are in the correct place, and finally lifting the car can be a little time consuming. I have opted to use jack stands in place of these Quick Jacks a few times just because of the extra setup time. That being said, the QuickJacks offer way more ground clearance than my jack stands and I'd have to buy a special jack to lift the car high enough for taller jack stands, and I'd have to buy those too since I only have standard height jacks. The unit I have is the 3500SLX, and I purchased it from Costco when it was on sale for $999. In the end, I'm glad I have the QuickJack, I use it when I need more ground clearance.

Nice! They’re a great company and I plan to use them again on my next upgrade. 😁

0.68:1 is my 5th gear ratio. The 3.55:1 third member pairs well with giving the car a little more pep down low, but still good RPMs for the highway cruising I need to do to get anywhere. However, if I had to do it over again, I go with 3.70 or 3.89 gearing. I am willing to take a slight hit in highway RPMs for better acceleration down low. I think you need to evaluate how often you'll be at highway speeds compared to slower speeds. If you won't be on the highway for extended periods of time, taking the lower gearing (numerically higher numbers) will probably be more fun to drive. :)

Thanks! That shorter gear makes it feel like there's more torque down low, but I haven't really given it the beans yet. No issues with u-turns as this is an LSD, not a spool or welded Diff. I've got a few more upgrades to go before I want to take this car through some twisty roads. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel I like the combo of the short gears and the 5 speed with OD.. might be on my list of projects to get to. Your gasket in this one was ( and take no offense..) 10x nicer looking then your last one! Do you recommend that product? Is it limited to differentials or could it be used for other applications such as an intake manifold or a fuel pump?

@@jordanschultz2232 The gasket material (Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker) is the same stuff I used last time, but this time I used the "cheese-whiz" style tube, which made it way easier to apply. That stuff is great, I have used it on my Rear Main Seal and Intake Manifold videos. I'm sure a someone could use it for the fuel pump, and if I had a leak there I'd probably use it there too. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel great stuff thanks Andy! I have a new carb and manifold going on next week and was debating a diy gasket material or a precut one, feeling confident about diy now! Wrong video to ask about this on, shorties vs long heads.. you've had both, which do you prefer?? Also, did you consider tri-ys at all?

@@jordanschultz2232 With the new Carb, I recommend the dry paper-type gasket. With the manifold to heads, I also recommend the appropriate gasket, but add this Ultra Black Gasket Maker to both sides of the gasket at the water ports (haha, ask me why I know this). You may want to watch the video I did a few months ago on installing the Intake Manifold. :) Wow, the header debate can go on for days. Long tubes are great for higher HP applications, and people that want to sit at the high RPMs while driving, but it may come at a sacrifice to lower end power. The reverse is said for Shortys as they favor engines more towards the stock end (or a few light mods) and provide better lower RPM benefits. Primary tube size will also play a role with larger pipes being reserved for larger displacement engines. If the primaries are too large, it will affect low end power. I like the look and potential power gains with long tube headers (assuming people plan to pull more power from their motor with mods over time), but the fitment can be a pain, especially on lowered cars and cars with cable clutches. Shortys tend to fit well and are usually not in the way of things. Tri-Ys can blend the best of both worlds, but are either cheaply made or it seems like they're on the other side of price spectrum with not really anything in the middle. Some fit extremely well with other mods and some don't. All that being said, if money wasn't an issue, I'd buy either some FPA Tri-Ys (but they're pricey) or Doug's Tri-Ys. These will both work with my cable clutch and provide power where I want it and will be great if I do something like a 347 Stroker down the road.

Nope, quiet as a church mouse. Well, as quite as this car can be at highway speeds. 😆

Nope, the u-joint on the driveline was newish, so it was fine. But even if it was older, the ring gear will likely get shredded before the u-joint gives out (assuming the u-joint wasn't already trashed). :)

@@AndyKruseChannel I just installed a third member from them and needed a different u joint, and I’m going to need wider girdles as well.

@@bofa83 That makes sense if you purchased the whole third member, they probably didn't know what size (or didn't even offer one) of u-joint you needed. I only upgraded the internals, so I was able to use my existing u-joint. :)

That’s me, whining from excitement of the new parts! 😆

@@AndyKruseChannel thought it sounded like gear whine I have a quick performance rear end