I know this an old video but I'm confused, I'm just about to do this adjustment and there is confusion as to the cylinders , two videos on here say cylinder 1 is clutch side while others say cylinder 1 is throttle side which is it ?
This is a good example of why you should always follow the workshop manual rather than some idiot (me) you see on RU-vid. I’m not a mechanic. My vids are aimed at demystifying the process only.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Don't be too hard on yourself as the manual doesn't mention which cylinder is 1 or 2 and also tells us to align timing chain sprocket marks to the top notch when it should be the bottom, who knew.
Beware. As a couple of others have mentioned, the cylinders are incorrectly numbered in the video. Cylinder 1 is actually on the left, clutch lever, side. Also the job isn't as simple as portrayed. Taking the radiator off is tricky and there is no mention of the inspection window on the right cylinder head for checking T1 and T2 are correct.
Thank you for all of your nice detailed videos. You have helped me save a lot of money and helped me to feel confident and closer to my bike. God bless you, I'm sure your videos have helped hundreds, maybe thousands of NC owners.
I checked and adjusted the lash on my 2018 today because of your video! It was a little over a 2 hour job for me, and I do have a good mechanical background and know how engines work. Easy! Another reason I bought the NC750X, easy maintenance. Thanks Thanks Thanks for your informational videos!
I'm such a fan of the lock nut type adjusters. It's not uncommon to get a £500 bill for valve checks on bikes like the CrossTourer yet look how straight forward it is on the NC. Such a great bike. Thanks for sharing this video.
DervMan - Agree. It's one of the top reasons I chose the NC over the Kawasaki Versus And the "check" bill will double if actual adjustment is needed - remove cans etc.
A cracking video. As others have stated, due to your clear and concise instructions it makes working on these bikes a doddle. I'm definitely going to get one. Keep up the good work.
Did today the valve clearance inspection. Your vids help a lot. Was fun to do it and by far not as much work as I had expected. Thanks a lot, the last year you've been a good teacher to me :)
Thanks form the UK for this job and the service to be done by my Honda dealership and a service is around £400. After your video my costs came to just the parts for the service. Thank you so much I will spend the cash you have saved my on fuel 👍 love all the videos keep safe
Thanks for the post. Looks very straight forward. Really looking hard at this model, on a very very short list of next bike. Really like the looks of yours. Good looking bike.
Excellent job thank you for posting that! Looks like I could probably handle that on my motorcycle when it needs it doing! Could be a little while as my brand-new NC 750 S only has 36 miles on it.... it was a breeze on my Moto Guzzi too. Thanks for sharing that and all the best!😀
First time Ive opened up an engine in my life, thanks for the clear instructions on your maintainance video's. Saved me a load of money and learned a lot! My valve clearances were off on the intake on cil 1 and exhaust on cil 2. If you are like me and doubting if you should do this yourself, I thought it was a fairly easy job even with just basic mechanical skills. Just make sure you have the right tools!
@@ropeysubstance1719 I did because I wanted to replace them anyway. You would be fighting against engine compression when rotating it if you do not remove them
Did 90.000 kms on mine, never checked the tappets.. Still runs like a dream (I know, you should check them, but hey, it's a Honda! As long as you keep it lubed, its fine)
If they are too tight you risk damage to the valves. I'd check at 48K just to be safe. Often the valves are okay for tons of miles after the first check up.
Freaking hell, didn't know valve clearance was this easy!. I was rip-off of almost $500 for my vtwin vstrom650, the mechanic said it is a tedious job as he need to "clean", process of getting to the engine bla bla bla. Thanks man for the video!
Khairi Rais - your mechanic was correct. The vstrom cams are difficult to get at and use "shim and bucket" clearance adjustment, not the simple "screw and locknut" of the NC Honda. This is one reason I chose the NC
I enjoy your videos a little tip on the plastic you can apply some lube I like silicone-based grease you can even get a little tiny tube of the electric grease or faucet and valve Grease and apply it to all the little places where the plastic snaps into place it makes it lock in easily and silicone prevents water from washing off the grease you only need a tiny bit and then things lock right into place and don't wear out.
Great Video. I figured this bike would make that job easy and you just showed it was easier than I thought. Wish we could get the 750x in the U.S. Knowing I'd be missing 3-5 hp on a motor that is so modest already makes it a tough buy. I love the idea of this bike, but I can't decide if I can downgrade on power that much.
Thank you Adrian for all of your How To videos. Having no workshop manual, it is helping me a lot. After two years of riding my 2017 NC750X, I changed the oil in the forks and the brakes. I changed the coolant and adjusted the valves while there was no forks and radiator in the way. My owner manual is calling for an inspection at 25,600 KM and I am at 24K. All the valves were still at the factory specifications except both intake valves on cylinder number two. On your bike, at 19K your two intake valves were also tight. On mine, there was zero clearance left. Could it be a coincidence that both motors needed adjustment on the same cylinder or could there be a pattern to watch here. I wonder if others have the same experience on cylinder number two. I also installed a Cobra Nemo2 Chain Oiler. I did not have a chance to test it out yet but it should save me some hastle.
Guys dont be hard on him. He already did a lot. Yes cilinders were wrong told, cyl 1 is on the Left side AS YOU SIT ON THE BIKE, or right side AS YOU FACE THE BIKE.
Hi great video as usual. I did myself this adjustment for the second time. I didn't see u use the mark hidden under the plastic circle on the right of the by motorbike when u sit on it. I presume when u shake the 4 valves and u feel some movement u know u are on the right cylinder. Otherwise u have tu turn again 360 degrees. My question is how can we be sure we are adjusting the right cylinder ? I mean of course I shared the 4 valves and checked all the marks...but is it possible that the previous adjustemt was so bad that it has been reversed between the cylinder s that I'm thinking that one (cylinder 1) is two (cylinder 2)...I'm asking this question because everyone says that cylinder 1 is on right side when I sit on the bike and when I checked the marks and shake the valve for me number one is on the left side. Anyways I finished the adjustment tried the bike and everything is fine... what do u think? Regards
excellent step by step video. Good to also see that Honda have made these so easy to get to. I had a CBR500R and that was a PITA. I am looking to buy one of these as a soft adventure bike. Have you taken it off road? how many KM to the tank? Is the suspension adjustable with more than pre-load?
Shutters Castle Hill - Castle Hill Shutters - I've done a few hundred km on gravel roads (see my three day ride video). Although having a 17" front wheel it handles loose gravel well. The bike is "built to a price" and doesn't have any suspension adjustment other than rear preload. The tank holds 14ltrs. I get an average of 3.5 ltrs/100 which gives about 400km per tank. I owned a GS1150 for 13 years before this bike, riding it to places such as Innaminka. The NC is no GS but for the price and cost of ownership, I'm more than happy with it.
Ariel Britos - no performance improvement. The important thing is that if the gap is too small, the valve can stay open, which then burns the valve seat as it is exposed to combustion, which means head removal and repair.
thealvaco - I was surprised too. But to be fair there was still some clearance - just not perfectly in spec. If it had been a shim system I would have left it as is, but as it’s so easy to adjust - I did it.
well I did my valve adjustment according to your video my gas mileage went down almost 10%. Because I ended up adjusting the cylinders backwards now I have to redo it
To be fair, you should never follow advise from RU-vid without using the workshop manual. You never know if you are following an idiot like me or a trained mechanic.
Just wondering but where did you get your specs from, I have a NC750X as well and I didn't see them in the owners manuel. Is there a Haynes Manuel or something simillar I can buy? Thanks
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Hello. I tried to find the facebook group that you write but i can't find the group. Can you upload the document somewhere which we can download? thank you very much.
Tamer Yiğit - you will have to try again to find the Facebook group (type in the name as I have described it) and request to join. Cannot upload documents to RU-vid.
Thank you very much for your video! Just my two cents on the matter: valve clearance should be performed at top dead center at the compression stroke and on a cool engine. Take both plugs off. Put a finger on the intake rocker arm of either cilinder and rotate the crank. Once you feel it open and close, then the next TDC marking will be the one you're looking for for that particular cilinder, and where you should be doing your adjustments, if any. If you do the adjustments on the TDC at the exhaust stroke, then you'll hear nasty, loud valve sounds once you start the engine and will have to do it all over again once the bike is cooled down. Torque rocker arms nuts at 29 NM and the head cover bolts at 10 NM.
Great video; I've got the little brother, the NC700X - but the process for this is the same on that bike as it is for yours. Question though; I'm not sure based no a very incomplete service history if this is needed on my bike or not - can you tell, based on the sound of the running engine if there's a need to adjust?
Paul Young - no you cannot tell by listening. A quiet engine can mean no clearance on the valves. If you don’t know the history you must check the clearances. It could be very expensive if the clearances have closed up, causing valve seats to be burned and therefore a complete head recondition.
is it just me or is it extremely hard to hear the audio in this video? i turned the volume all the way up. also, when you filled up the coolant again did you mix it with distilled water or just straight coolant?
Great video Adrian! I'm curious if you noticed any performance change or gain after the adjustments? I'll be checking my valves for the first time very soon. Glad I have your video to make the job easier. :)
No performance improvement. Once valve clearances close up enough to leave valves open the first thing you get is misfiring under load, then burned valve seats, then a head recondition ....
Where did you get your workshop manual seen in the video? I have been searching for one for a year, but unable to find it. I want it specially for the list of torque spec for all the bolts. I saw one for sale once, but the shipping to europe was over the ludicrous ammount of 350$, more than four times the requested price of the manual.
Gryphus - in you join the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners group” (be sure to intelligently answer the three questions) a PDF manual is in the Files section.
Dave Mammali - I only knew they were out when I measured the gap. It’s critical to check as the first you will know the gaps are closed is when the valve seats get burned and the bike starts missing. Then you are up for a head recondition!
pedro lopez DJ - don’t know. It’s probably in the workshop manual but I don’t bother with torque settings unless it’s engine head bolts. They just need to be firm as there is a rubber gasket
What tools do I need for that? I'm buying a combination wrench set (8pcs, 6-22mm) and an allen key set (9pcs, 1.5-10mm) is that a good start and what would I also need? (I do have tools from my dad, but it's an incomplete and messy toolbox, now I want to buy my own (I got some tools already that I needed so far for changing wheels, oil change and other 12K km work) but still not sure what I need) Any general advice would be helpful too!
pixxel - whenever doing maintenance on the bike you should follow the workshop manual instructions. RU-vid videos are just for general understanding. Tools? You will need a set of feeler gauges.
Thanks for the video. I can't believe that Honda uses old fashioned screw and nut tappet adjustments. A NC750 DCT will be my next bike! On my Tmax, I have to pretty much strip the scoot of everything to get to all the screws holding the cover. Then remove the camshafts to get to the adjuster buttons if one of the valves is off. Is there really only one exhaust pipe for both cylinders?
I used to have a TMax and loved it. If you wind up getting the NC750, post a review back here to let us know how you like it. I'm curious to see how the power is compared to the TMax.
Will do. As much as I like the Tmax, the idea of having to adjust the valves this winter gives me the chills. I'm looking at the DCT model to save the grip in my left hand. Should be easy to ride like the Tmax.
Good idea to have screw and nut tappet adjustment: with shims adjustment, you need to remove the camshaft. In the nc750x service manual, step number one for removing the cam shaft is: "remove engine from motorcycle frame "....
Great video. Did you say 19,000km that would be 12K miles my owners manual for the [NC700X] says inspect every 12,000 km or 8,000 miles so it should not be surprising that an adjustment was necessary?
Paul C - my experience with shin adjustment bikes is they rarely need adjustment. But I think it’s more common on screw and lock nut bikes for the first adjustment. I haven’t had to adjust again and now done 50,000km.
In my experience its not unusual to come across a couple of valves that need adjusting first time round, youl probably find future checks they wont need touching.
Thanks for the video sir. I followed the manual to do the adjustment but I believe it runs out of spec in couple of week less than 1k km. I am not sure what went wrong? Can anyone share their experience? Thanks!
I wonder why Honda decided to use two parallel intake rocker arms when one forked on would've done. Less costs, less weight. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that this engine was derived from the Honda Jazz car?
Hi i see that you have a workshop manual is that a genuine one if so how much was it and where did you get it from the only ones i can find are in euros cheers
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff , unfortunately the 'free' downloaded version you have is not helping you since you've misidentified the cylinders in your video (you've shown the exhaust tappet for #2 as #1) and has been referenced many times as shown here: www.nc700-forum.com/forum/how-to-s-/4513-valve-adjustment-step-step.html "Since we've lined up Cylinder #1 -- which is ON THE LEFT -- we're going to check those first. " www.nc700-forum.com/forum/how-to-s-/11650-misc-maintenance-tips.html "Once you have set the #1 (left) cylinder's valves, you need only move 270 degrees more to line up T2 for the #2 (right) cylinder. " nc700forumsa.proboards.com/thread/254/valve-adjustment-procedure-honda-nc700x 1/2 down the page a picture of the valve adjustment is found showing Cylinder #1 (#1 exhaust) RU-vid procedure found here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oWUCFoz01tk.html @ 4:08 the video references "Align 1 with the Notch for Cylinder 1(Clutch side), Align 2 with the notch for Cylinder 2 (Brake side) " as in which side your clutch/brake handles are. All in all an excellent presentation save this pertinent detail which I believe since this is the second notification you might want to re-shoot this portion of your video. As a point of reference I've had my NC700X since 12/2012 and have 67,600 + miles and have done my own service the whole time and used the above procedures without a problem.
Jay B - agree. It's one reason I bought the NC. By the way, the GS BMW's (the air/water cooled ones at least ) also have screw and lock but adjustment.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Thanks bro..... do you have any solution to remove the water pump from the engine as i notice that the Body frame is blocking the bolts ..... would appreciate it if you have any solution on that.... was thinking of loosening the engine mount to drop the engine slightly.... what do you suggest... thanks again.....
I don’t have any experience with the water pump removal. And as I’m not a mechanic I can’t offer any suggestions either. What does the workshop manual say? You should never attempt any job without reference to the workshop manual.
Not as easy as a MotoGuzzi as obviously no radiator and tappet covers out to the side so very easy to get at. However in saying that I like the idea you can easily adjust your tappets without the use of shims or having the up and down adjustments to do of each valve like the desmo. Nice video and well done..I think these are a well thought out bike with the engine configuration & the tank aiding the low centre of gravity. Shame they didn't use a 18' or 19" front wheel to aid rolling over obstacles. It's also a shame that the air cleaner is so difficult to get at for an adventure bike.
my friend, they sell this bike as adventure but is not,.. here in Canada after sales they says this bike is a touring cruiser... for long trips. but unfortunately seat is garbage for that too.
@@alexvandettum4185 That is wrong. Cylinder one is the one in the left while sitting on the bike. That means "gear selector" side. The video is wrong. Take care because is really important to adjust the valves when in TDC in compression.
Antimortem - I haven’t felt the need to check it. Symptoms would be uneven idle and jerky slow speed when the throttle is just a little open. You need special purpose vacuum gauges to check it.
Usually you must check it every 20k km. Its standard maintenance for every multiple cylinders engines. Why don't you do it as preventative maintenance? Another symptom of uneven intake body is vibration. Please think about it :)
Antimortem - I’ve thought about it. But won’t be doing it any time soon. I agree it is standard on carbureted bikes but not nearly as necessary on fuel injected ones.
That's not true. You still need to adjust the amount of pressure that goes into the engine. Carb type is called carburetor butterflies sync. Fuel injection ones is throttle body sync. Trust me, it's an essential maintenance job. I have seen it being done on a mt07 Yamaha but it would be better to see it done on the nc750. If you wait for the symptoms than it might not be obvious till a more serious problem starts happening.
