VW T3: Ignition switch replacement (no-crank) 

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Thank you for watching... I have more than one ignition switch removal video (there might be a better one). Search "exovcds T3" on youtube to find all my T3 videos.

Let me know how it went.

The Disgruntled Mechanic Guess you haven't been watching long enough... I leave them wanting more! =)

yes I know hence the haha! in the statement.

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Hi Richard... yeah, things sometimes don't go easy for me as well. Good to hear that you were able to fix the issue! Thank you for watching!

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Thank you for watching!

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Thank you for watching!

Same here.

I know what you mean... can be a hassle!

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Things were simple before the mid 90's... unless it was a Chrysler K car! LOL

They all have their own place... but you still have to make sure that things are aligned correctly before pushing the connectors back on.

@@EXOVCDS well noted, thank you man

The ignition switch supplies power to several components... the "load reduction" relay being one of them. When the internal circuit for the load reduction relay fails, then the lights, wipers, blower (everything that gets power from that relay) will not work. Simply playing with the key or holding it at a slightly different position, can cause things to work again. Even the cranking portion... while holding the key in the crank position... lever the key up, down, left right (12, 3, 6, 9 O'clock). A borderline switch will get the starter cranking again by finding the "sweet spot".

Thomas EXOVCDS Clear and loud, thank you ! Thanks to your content, now I'm more confident in doing this. 👍

Thomas EXOVCDS One more question, please, before starting the swap. Do I really need to unplug the battery before, or I can just do it as it is ? It's pretty difficult to me right now, opening the engine compartment, since I have lots of stuff stored there and it's muddy around the van. Thanks.

Syncro Van The battery should be under the passenger seat. I did not unplug the battery... you don't have to either.

Thomas EXOVCDS Mine, is back on engine compartment. Most of European vans, have the main battery there. I've made it, thank you !

woody95124 I do not yet have a video for that specific model... watch this video, it should be similar to what your Beetle has: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vEdr2Q0atA8.html Link to part 2 is in the description. These are old videos... lighting sucks, sorry, but you should still be able to get the idea / figure out what is going on. It could very well be that you ignition switch is OK and the problem stems from an issue with the key cylinder / lock assembly like in this 2 part video. If you have further questions... let me know.

Thnx Thomas....yourr not kiddin on the low light!...no big deal...like u said u do get the idea....thnx agian bud....Happy holidays......

Had I known push-button ignition was making a come-back... I would have started selling kits in the mid 80's. Stuff these days is more complicated than it really needs to be.

Hi Justin... how are you?

I am okay and sad all day

You still plan to take trip to United States?

no money :(

Less coffee / trips to Starbucks... will help save money quicker! =)

No, but to be safe yes.

Distributor hall sensor possibly. When it does not start, check for spark. Let me know what you find.

I'm currently at work... will get back to you once I'm at home later tonight (6pm> PST).

No, I don't think a 102 relay fault would prevent cranking. I'm thinking a bad ground connection. Using a test light, attach it to battery + and then touch the tip of the test light to a metal part of the engine or the transmission. The test light should light-up nice and bright. If no, check the battery negative connection at the battery and where it attaches to the engine / transmission. Make sure that the connection is clean & tight. With the test light still attached to battery positive... touch the tip of the test light to a part of the vehicle chassis. Give the test light a bit of a poke or scratch through the paint (you can apply touch-up paint over it after). The test light should light-up nice and bright. If not, then the chassis does not have good ground. Follow the battery negative cable from the battery clamp to where it attaches to the chassis. Clean the connection and make sure that the connection is tight. Attach the test light to battery negative and touch the tip of the light to the battery positive post on the starter (where the battery + cable is attached). The test light should light-up nice and bright. If no, check the battery + cable connection at the battery & at the starter. Once you get the engine running, you can do a Voltage Drop Test of both the negative and positive side of the battery / charging system... like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ieUbfUTwNjQ.html To check voltage drop of the vehicle chassis, simply measure across battery negative post to the chassis.

Remove the driver door handle and have a lock Smith code a key to it... using the tumblers that are inside the handle.

Sorry... I wasn't fully awake when I replied earlier... you can remove the key cylinder by drilling a small hole in the lock housing and releasing the cylinder... to install a new Key Cylinder, but then you have to code the door handles to the new keys. If you need to know where to drill, let me know. Drilling can be done "in place" / lock housing does not need to be removed from the steering column.

Breaking how? No starter operation?

The key cylinder could be worn... not turning the switch far enough?

Thomas EXOVCDS Could be, this cylinder is ruff. It isn’t the smoothest when removing and inserting key. Twisting the key feels mushy.

The ignition switch was only faulty in the "crank" position... yes, the oil light, battery light, dash lights, fuel & temperature gauges worked normally. Simply remove the ignition switch harness plug and bridge the thick red wires together. If the starter works, then the starter is OK and the ignition switch is bad. If you don't have oil light, battery light, gauges etc... check for power at the black wire of the ignition switch harness plug (when the key is ON). If you have power then the switch is OK and the problem is in the fuse box or anywhere between the ignition switch and the dash. If you do not have power at the black wire when the key is ON, then the ignition switch is bad or the thick red wire at the ignition switch harness plug does not have any power.

Mine no crank and no power to fuel pump But light at cluster are working

Leave the key ON and check for power at the ignition coil with a test light. Once side of the coil will have green wires and the other side black. Check the side that has black wires.

Black wire has light on with test light

@@saranyukulsin1771 Sorry, I got mixed up... you have a no crank, lets focus on that first. Remove the ignition switch harness plug and use a metal paper clip to bridge the thick red wire with the red/black wire. Starter should crank... yes/no? Like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GQdW1vYCbZ4.html

At 4:35 ? Oil light & coolant temperature.

Flashing light usually means serious problem.

Engine was off both those times... the lights function just like on your Eurovan. Coolant light will blink for a few seconds after start as a bulb check.

The only time I've ever seen a flashing light like that was when the cooling fan relay went out on my '92 and the car started to overheat.

Garth Goldberg Sorry... I forgot that you had a 2000 something EV. The 5 cyl EV's coolant LED should flash when the key is on (bulb check) and go out shortly after start-up. It will come on if coolant is low or if the engine is overheating. Your new style cluster just has the red temperature symbol that will start flashing if coolant level is low or the engine is overheating.

Badgertronix Funny guy!