VW T4 immobiliser and solenoid fault fix 

You're very welcome.

It could well be a faulty immobiliser. I think most T4s have had them removed. They can have an intermittent issue where it won't start and sometimes will. It wouldn't course a misfire, though. As for your OBD port, depending on which model you have from my understanding, not all obd Readers work on the T4s. You would need one for a T4 only. Or get a professional to scan it.

@@Adventure.with.Robbie Mine starts fine, no issues there so immo seems fine at first glance. I have VCDS which should work just fine. I have VW T4 1996 7D, so the newer face lift model. But I can't communicate to any of the modules which indicates there is something wrong with k-line. Probably a faulty module or circuit. I have already done some diagnostics and immo seems fine as I removed and bypassed it for testing purposes. I have also ruled out instrument cluster and ABS module. From here I still need to test ECU and wiring to it but I also noticed while looking through wiring diagrams that this black box on the VE pump is also connected to k-line. Considered I have issues with VE pump and engine wanting to cut out then I'm also going to check this out. I just searched to see if anyone has experienced similar problem and I just happened to find your video mentioning immo and shut off solenoid.

Go for it, mate. Absolutely worst case for you is the actual solenoid that has failed. ( common issue ) Which would mean the black box would have to be removed anyway to access that. Just be careful of the fuel pump screw when removing

@@Adventure.with.Robbie Okay Bud will give that a try , Will keep you posted , Ta

The wire you see left on the solenoid is just a cut of bit left over. There is only the two wires. One going to the pump/earthing point and the other going to the solenoid itself.

@@Adventure.with.Robbie ooh okay. I was confused because on the positive side you had a exposed cope wire ( or part of a wire ) and it looked like two. Doing this tomorrow morning. Cheers from being stranded stranded in Valencia parking lot in front of 16 Tesla chargers that destroyed my inmobizer 🤦 lol Also that one blue pipe with a fat screw to remove to get access to the solenoid is the fuel intake as far as I know and if you remove it it may intake some air that will have to be extracted . You didn't do this or did you? Big thanks

I believe the fuel system is a self bleed system. I didn't have to bleed mine. You can also put a switch on the dash and connect that up to then two wires for extra security. Meaning when it's turned off, the engine won't start.. defiantly worth doing whole you got all the front end of. It's also ideal to do the glow plugs at the same time whole you have easy access

@@Adventure.with.Robbie ooh I see. Yeah manual inmobizer is definitely a must without that box in there... Otherwise a thief can be start pushed or just tap into cables lol. I'll also put in a hidden GPS. Thanks boss. I'll let you know if this has worked for me

@Jack.D5 you have any issues. Just send us a msg. If I can help, I will do

Hi Gavin, mine is a 2.4 none turbo. However, I would persum it would be a similar if not the same set up.

Hi how did you remove the metal casing?

@gavinp6025 hammer and chisel along the seam. Or you could use a mini hobby disk cutter.. just be careful not to hit the screw in the fuel pump with the hammer

Yes, you can remove the box totally and connect the two wires up as in the video

@@Adventure.with.Robbie sometimes the inmobilizer is hooked up with the switchboard. I hope this is not the case for the volkswagen t4? Must be since it worked for you ;)

@jacobtex4611 I'm unsure to be fair. I done this on mine about a year ago. Had no issues with it at all. When you say switch bourd. Do you mean the black box that the two wires are originally connected too?

i ment the main central comupter@@Adventure.with.Robbie