get the CP3 mod check out this guys video. I believe this will solve the problem for good. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uUu3XmOAWnI.html
Where can I get a kit to install a CP3 pump or do 2013 passat tdis already have one? Is the kit expensive? I really want one of these cars but everytime I do deep research there’s problems and these cars just don’t seem worth it for the price.
I’ve got a 2010 Jetta tdi, had the diesel fix. I bought it with 24,000 on the clock, has 96,000 now. Ever since I got it I’ve been fortunate enough to live in a part of California that has Propel gas stations, basically a bio-based renewable diesel with extra lubricity additives, also every tank I add some hot shots secret and Howells diesel treat. Basically I “overload” it with lots of additives. One thing I was advised was try not to go over 3000 RPM (or at least as little as possible) the car runs great , never had any problems with the engine. next thing I’m gonna do is replace the fuel filter with a 3 micron kit. Eventually I was thinking of getting a factory coolant circulation heater to eliminate “cold” starting as we all know that’s where the most wear can happen.
bizzare you are being advised to not go over 3k rpm, these silly diesel engines are everywhere in europe and run pretty happily getting ragged around all day I have a 2013 Skoda superb (equvilent to a volkswagen passat / just a bigger jetta) with a 1.6 TDI and over 260k MILES and still runs (somewhat) like new
2stroke oil mixed with fuel will damage you DPF because of high level of zinc,will clogh your injectors,it works for old diesel non common rail,non PD.For lubricity you can use special additives from Liqui Moly witch are the best imo.You can find great fuel additives from Wynns also.There are plenty of options,and at great price.I used them all in my 175k miles Volvo.Not a problem,engine runs great,great mpg,no smoke,nothing
Just watched this and now I’m wondering if I’m missing something about the fuel system? I have a 2010 Jetta TDI and it just passed 375k and I haven’t touched a thing on it. NOTHING other than oil changes every 4-5k, trans service, timing belt and fuel filters all normal stuff. Believe it or not even has original front brake pads. Original clutch on the DSG is starting to rattle at idle but other than that it’s running amazing. Doesn’t burn oil between changes. Been an amazing car so far. Nearly all highway miles on it so I’m sure that has really made a difference but still seems crazy I haven’t had any issues
that is amazing, most people have had problems with the high pressure fuel pump. Check Tdi club forums. I would change it just to be safe. they do wear out and cause the whole fuel system to plug up.
Good advice! Car has never been out of ca but all miles are highway so that’s prob what saved the pump. Going to replace it along with timing belt this week. Not going to put another mile on it after hearing about the damage these pumps cause when they go out. Thank you for your videos!
@@kingeniero53 may want to change that HPFP just as a maintenance. they do fail and it is expensive. Look at the other comments. It is not a common thing to get 250k miles without the pump failing. Better be safe than spend 9000.
Hello there. I own a 2014 Golf TDI with this engine. I’m considering a CP3 upgrade, but for the time being, there are several easy steps to take to really extend the life of these CP4’s, especially in California. Use Propel Renewable Diesel fuel sold at stations throughout the state. Lubricity is far superior to ULSD fuel. Second, always include additional lubricity additives, such as “Optilube”, “Lucas”, “DieselKleen” etc... lastly, never rev the engine above 3k RPMs unless absolutely necessary. Cheers.
I use prolab DBF-4 in all diesel. I have a fuel knocking injector and it cleared up after 1 tank of using twice the recommended amount. I was sold ever since. Low sulfur will kill that cheap, aluminium bore, cp4 pump very quickly. I suggest a cp3 swap, it's bolt on.
Just got a 2013 Turbo diesel 2.0L, I think it did get the emissions update but I’m trying to avoid running to future problems, where do you put the DBF? Is it oil or fuel additive
I got a 2012 tdi for mt first car and have about 155k miles on the clock im in tx btw the car came from cali finally got a cp3 pump and havnt had any problems with the cp4 pump yet its tuned and got a full exhast thank god it hasnt destroyed my fuel system yet have used additives for my fuel to help lubrication but it might have been repalced when it got the emissiona update didnt have the paperwork for when I got it but has been an amzing car and have been very lucky considering they seem to fail around this mileage
Coming from a guy that rebuilds pumps and injectors everyone talking about contamination, the metal shavings are from cp4 pumps not cp3 pumps same as the chevy duramax issues which they already have been switching back to cp3s
@@hey_youtubeim_back2159 owners and shops are factory never would do that, new duramax diesels are running denso hp4 pumps which don't have the issues bosch did with the cp4 ram still runs the cp4
Another option for lubricity additive is shell turbine oil. This is oil that is added to kerosene or jet fuel to bring the lubrication up to a suitable standard.
Thanks for making this video. But is Biofuel good or bad? You don't mention it and there are no context clues to figure that out. You're changing your pump at 100k miles and people who use biofilter should adjust that. later or earlier? It's just a bit unclear. Thanks!
kit cost 2000$ and allows a cp3 pump from a duramax to be mounted. No more worries, and it if fails it fails alone, unlike the cp4.2 . Watch my videos on the cp3 vs cp4
CA resident here with 84k on EA288. First time I heard of mixing 2 stroke oil with fuel. I run ULSD. B20 if on long road trips. I have ran the TDI on HPR. As the engine gets older and more cranky, I will probably stay with ULSD. It had the VW fix at 50k. I will ask about fuel pump replacement when I do water pump and timing belt during 130k. My greatest preventative measure is to spend a little more money to run Mobil 1 ESP. I guess only time will tell if that investment pays off.
@@dominikszafran5514 I just think it has newer cp4.2 Cjaa is older cp4. Neither are as good a a cp3 though. I was gonna get the newer cp4.2 but pretty sure I’m gonna go cp3 conversion
Mine Its a 2011 TDI; It carries 230,000 Milles and no Issues at all; Onlyi each 100K; Change Tmieing Belt//waterr Pump,and some pouleys! Its a Wagon line and Strong like a GreyHound!
You keep referencing biofuel but you don't say whether its better or worse. I would assume its better as it has better lubricity. There are a number of diesel additives that claim to improve the combustion of the fuel and lower emissions like DieselTreat. So why would you risk adding two stroke oil and motor oil when its clear that it would cause dirty combustion.
Currently on a road trip from Boston to Raleigh NC. 450 miles into my trip my fuel has just gone. 87k. I can't go above 60 mph. Trying to limp it the last couple hundred miles and bring it to a vw dealerzhip. It's certified ND under warranty. 2015 passat tdi. PL0087
@@Mikefngarage turned out to be just bad fuel I guess I limped it along at about 55 til it was almost empty. Put new fuel in and haven't had a issue yet.
@@MaxkwGisKaas It’s the low cetane numbers. In 2006 sulfur was handed a death sentence my the Government. Yes the lack of sulfur is the problem but how the World determines the quality of diesel and is regulated by the cetane content. It should be 50 but in the US it’s 40. Technically we are both correct.
The pumps are failing because of low lubrication content, which sulfur was doing in the diesel, low cetane lowers power, it does not reduce lubrication. Low cetane is most likely the result of the low sulfur. @@goodough
@@MaxkwGisKaas Well yeah just like lead is to gasoline. Lead gasoline was superior . The thing is now they don’t sell sulfur like that or lead for gasoline so that’s why I just say cetane. That’s really all that most people know because that’s all the companies that sell additives label their packages with……
Hello vw owners. I replaced today my hpfp and fuel injectors on my vw 2013 2.0 tdi. It took me two days to fix it but at the end its worth it. I didnt change the fuel pump nor the timing belt cause it was replaced recently and to be honest i wanted to save as much as i can $$$. I didn’t even use the special tool to counter hold the bolt that torques 95nm on the shaft, instead we used screw driver and stick in the timing hole and that locks the fuel pump shaft and u can tie it down no prob :))). i have vcds also u need to add the new injectors in the cars computer. That will be issue if u dont have vcds. fixed my car with $1100 i’m so happy, so if i can yall can do too. have a great day!
Did you follow a tutorial or write-up that you could link here? I bought one with 68 thousand miles and I’m trying to get ahead of any issues I might hit
Hi. My 2011 TDI VW Jetta died last night as I was driving on the freeway. I was lucky to roll to a street. I called a local mechanic, he said is most likely the fuel pump. He suggest I go to the dealership and call VW to open a claim. I called VW to open a claim, they said I am out or warranty by 200 miles. She said I was covered until 174,614. Currently I am at 164,847. I said I was just a few hundred miles. She replied VW has no leeway on warranty even if it's a few miles.
My 2011 Q7 is at the dealer right now... praying they cover the repair. I live in IL.. impossible to get non-bio diesel. Hooe they don't use that as the cause.
My touareg tdi been in the dealer for the past 2 months fuel pump failure. The warranty cover 14,000$ in parts. The dealer still cant get my car to start. Now there are telling me that i have to pay more money out my pocket so they can re diagnose the issue!! Telling me that VW cover everything they could now it has to come out my pocket. So basically the dealer is siphoning twice the warranty and the client be aware!!!! Last vw in my lifetime
I had a 2009 vw tdi jetta. I'll never own another VW diesel again. I was commuting 120 miles a day and wanted the benifit of the 45 to 50 mpg. I was using the Propel fuel because of the implied warranty. I bought the car used with 60K miles in 2011. The HPFP failed at 120K miles in 2013. I never was able to find out if it was the original pump or not. Neither Propel nor VW provided any compensation. It was over $6000 dollars out of my pocket to rebuild and replace all the damaged parts. The little metal chips get circulated through everything from tank to injectors. The buyback came just in time as I was coming up on 180K in 2016. I took the cash and used it to put a much needed new roof on my 30 yr old house.... And don't get me started about VW door locks! And what's the deal with the 12 point bolts?
I have a 2010 Jetta TDI that I bought new in December 2010. June 6, 2018, just 2 weeks ago, our car stalled coming to an intersection. It wouldn’t start again. Towed to dealership where they found metal in the fuel. They’re claiming the fuel failed the contamination test, and won’t cover it under the warranty we have for the fuel system. I’m so peeved… even have the last 3 receipts showing I used diesel fuel. (Also I’m not an idiot and have never mis-fueled my vehicle - I bought it BECAUSE of the diesel). How many miles would you estimate you could go on contaminated fuel before it dies? I was at 384 miles on that tank (im estimating I went through about 8.5 gallons when it stalled). My total miles are 134k miles, mostly on highway, and I had my timing belt replaced as a precaution about 2-3 months ago.
I have 2010 skoda Laura Diesel type 2 TDI and I am getting P0088 Fuel Rail Pressure too high error and and self is getting stretch while starting car and I have replaced entire Rail with both the sensor from the working Laura and Changed the High Pressure pump DRV but still getting same error while riding its loosing the power and coil light flashing and throwing same error.Please help me hear to find the problem. Thanks in Advance!!
Been thinking about putting some used motor oil through through a coffee filter then putting a SMALL amount in the tank. If a coffee filter isnt fine enough Ive found a filter that goes down to a half micron. Thoughts people?
@warkrak This will be good ONLY if the waste motor oil is extremely clean and your car has the dpf and catalyst removed. Many of the sub-micron metal particles and oil additives will cause “ash” that will coat the emissions stuff. Also, chunks of crud can make an injector stick open and ruin the whole engine. Common rails are finicky.
I have a 2013 vw jetta 6 1.6 tdi. That just didn't want to start i took it to vw and they replaced vw rail and after that it started and the vehicle ran for 2 days and showed the glow plugs sign which when i took it back at the dealer they said it is high pressure fuel pump.
hey Cavy check out the cp3 mod for the late models. I am going to get this pump. It is totally way better design and the chevy trucks went back to this design again. you can get a 2.0 and put this pump on and have a super reliable 2.0 with more hp. Here is a link. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uUu3XmOAWnI.html
Michael Buck get a lawyer involved with your issue. Mike F our "fix" extended warranty given by VW covers your HPFP you're talking about. Sammy Ymmas yeh he did, you're talking about 2micron.
NEW INFORMATION. change the pump NOW to a CP3 Before it goes bad. The design of the Cpr which is what is in the car now is flawed. Google CP3 retrofit... yea it is expensive but it is a one time fix forever.
After a long run when I stop my skoda superb 1.8 petrol for long time and then I tried strat. ....it cranked but wont start ....but when i removed the front soft pipe line from hfpp and then strong petrol pressure realsed from the hfpp and my car star immediately ....please please please reply same pump no check engine light
I had 326k miles on my CR when I got rear ended and they tottalled my yunicorn :( never have I had a problem with HPFP why ? all I did is installed malone tune used quality diesel (googled best gas stations-took me 10 months to find one "near airport" where all airport equipement gets their diesel and it always is fresh) and I also used additives excessively lol down to a point where I could makes reviews videos on how each one of them effects your engine and MPG xD if you use too much and your foot is heavy like mine your DMF will slip because the tune is so strong
@@aaron___6014 well... to be honest with you I used them all and they all work just as good! mostly I would go with (diesel Supplment and Cetane Booster by Power service) simply because it was avaliable at almost any gas station lol
@@aaron___6014 I would add 25% of bottle every 2 fill ups or so not that it was needed or anything I just discovered that this way my car had the most power and clutch could still handle it. if your car tuns like crap fro start you can just add the whole bottle and let it cycle thru the system to burn clean it but your car will have lotttts of power so just be friendly on your clutch and dont beat on it too much at a same time it will completly cleanj out your DPF lol mine would get to hot that regen cycle didint even need to engage lol it was so clean that my waste gate would get louder etc etc and people at my local VW just couldnt believe themselves of just how well CR engines were engineered !
@@aaron___6014 at times your exhaust / turbo may even get red hot but thats just because there is so much gunk in your exhaust system that needs to be burned off + you will get better fuel economy once that it gone
Per usare olio 2 tempi allunghi vita pompa cp4 forse,ma fap egr corpo farfalato si sporcano, io sulla mia a3 usando olio ho rovinato fap in neanche 40k,
Best solution change to cp3. best way out. the CP4 WILL fail they are design flawed. piston can spin sideways. Roller is too small on the piston. Rolling resistance causes failure. plus piston goes sideways. 2 stroke oil from what I hear does not help.
yea for sure somewhere they allow it though. Some states only have mixed bio only like if you see on the pump it says b5 then it is 5% bio. some guys are adding a half quart of motor oil to make up for it. Some guys use 2 stroke oil as an additive.
you want to change hpfp at 100000k for what? i so this engine with the same hpfp over 300000 no problem if you maintain them the cause of hpfp to go early is when you change the fuel filter or what you do at fuel system, you need to prime the fuel system the to not run dry before you start the engine , if they run dry they do metal shavings
Mine is making that ticking noise. I am upset as hell as it did not do it in the past. No metal shavings though...yet. this is the sound, exactly like mine: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xYYbKTe1UNk.html
