With the axles removed what will hold the hub into the bearing? The bearing could collapse and the wheel will go flying. I wouldn't tow it without the axles. Be safe and take care buddy
Oh man...I didn't think about that. I guess I can remove the spline from the axle and slide it back in with the axle nut. That should hold it together. Good catch! Thank you! =) That good have been bad.
@@CTmoog I've been a subscriber for a long time wouldn't want to see any accidents. You have progressed so much with your skills you should be proud 👍👍
Without the axles (and the axle nut) there is no preload on the bearing. If you tow a car with no preload on the bearings, the bearings are destroyed in minutes.
Remembering the flood of muck/water/oil running down the drive from a few videos ago i can understand why you'd wait to pressure wash until you got it out to the farm :) love your gumption and your can-do attitude! Ive been hunting for a 914 that was doable and so right now I'm still living vicariously through you!
IIRC the elephant symbol means they are oversized bearings. So that motor probably has been align-bored at some point in the past. The "splash guard" is called a windage tray.
HI CT, well done with the obduction of the engine case, She looks bad but is doable. However, a long-term restoration expression of the rotor isn´t what I would call it it`s named the brake disc. good luck with the further restoration.Greetings Hubertus
Man that motor looks pretty clean inside for having water! That looks like is going to be a long and fun project! Nicely done on that tear down! A lot easier than other tear downs you’ve done! Great job! Looking forward to seeing more updates on this one!👌😎👍
loving this CT! your block is fine, a good cleanup and it will be fine. i've seen and had worse which has come up great, the scoring on the front main worries me a bit but an undersize grind might be in order there. a good way to check mains and big ends it to run your fingernail across the journal and if you feel indents you know that undersize will be the go (it will have to be ground down to get rid of the scoring basically). your cam is dead thats a throwaway. the cam gear looked very dry - dont know if thats coz you have been cleaning i would have expected? also when you check bearings you really want to look at the surface where the bearing faces the piston big end or the main ; thats your primary wear point. the outside of them is not really a wear indicator per se. ie: if you looked at your cam bearings they were almost reusable - looked like no wear at all.
Hello mate from England again. Ohhh CT I love you man, you make me smile. You're one of a dying breed of men, whom, I think, still enjoy attacking jobs like this for fun, with less knowledge than enthusiasm (I mean that with great respect!) It's great for us to watch. Only fellas like you and me would say, when trying to unscrew something, "I think we need a bigger chisel". 😂😂 Stick at it mate, we're right there with you. And hey!! How's the bug??????
I was hoping you were going to try tightening up lug nuts on the rotor to release the pressure on the little screw, and see if that trick actually works. glad you finally prevailed.
On the symbols I know the first 2. The first is KS for Kolben Schmidt bearings. And the 2. is the old style VW symbol from 60’s/70’s if I Romberg it correctly. All this takes me back 35 years when I used to drive and worked on air cooled VW’s. Thanks for making this series. Robert
Ct you should number all your vlogs in order you recorded them if you jump about we’ll jump with you we don’t mind You do a fascinating blog please continue
Just separated my 1965 40hp engine and looks stock inside and in good shape which is surprising for that old. Will clean it up and inspect it better. Definitely will need to be line bored. The thrust bearing doesn't move at all. The worst thing I have found is a hole through the #1 piston. I think that was cause by a ring breaking. What's weird is didn't see damage to the cylinder?
Actually the velocity joints have roll pins at the attach flanges. when you remove the bolts and rotate the axles to a certain position, you can just lever them out and there is no need to remove the hub. I used to remove these as routine maintenance at high speed when I was a Porsche Mechanic because you only got paid per flat rate. The Allen bolts need to be torqued by hand during installation. Since this car is old and rusty I recommend removing the entire trailing arm so you can inspect all of it and rebush the trailing arm. You need an impact driver for the rotor hat screws or a real torch, not that wimpy gas bottle.
Crank is stock oiling journals are all like that I believe even VW Bug Bus etc... , you want to put a forged crank, rods in there, and take that engine to 2.3L lol ....
VW porshe audi skoda all use the same parts that's why you have found a vw symbol in there. Keep these videos coming. What's going on with the beetle? 😊😊
The cam is shot for sure.. looks like heat had a role to play.. the crank may be able to be reground.. the cross-drill oiling are std for Porsche 1.7 and up.
Thanks Tim! Yes, Darrin can fix anything! I'll jump back on the bug soon. Not much left to do really considering it's a patina ride. The 914 will be tits!
Thats not a "Silver Coating" on the cam, its where it's still clean bare metal from normal wear, that "Copper Coating" you refer to is just burnt-on Oil additives from high mileage, but it's not broken thru to some under layer, it's only on the spots where theres LESS wear and pressure, along the base circle of the cam and on the closing ramp side of where the valves were let closed - from deceleration and valve float On those oil ports, they were "Relieved" to open up the groove around them to better spread oil, looks like someone's very bad attempt with a hand die grinder, very sloppy, I'd replace the crank - looks like a spot for cracks to develop to me? In the earlier part of the video, you loosened the Large Regular-screw headed bolt that has the spring and plunger from the oil pump pressure relief valve, I wouldnt whack that like that to the side on an angle when you already OWN a normal manual Impact driver, just make or buy the big, wide regular socket bit for it, I have one I made for removing Sludge-trap plugs on Old Ducati Single Cyl cranks - Much safer!
If you set the car down without the axle in the bearing, the bearings are junk. I made that mistake on the front axles of my Rabbit. I didn’t even roll the car, just put it on the ground without axles in the bearings. Tried to use them and regretted the whole saga. I hope you didn’t put the wheels on & set it down.
I haven't watched the video yet, I'm commenting before watching because I know that creators don't get notifications on their older videos a lot and I just wanted to let you know what's been going on with me, since you showed some concern for me. I lost my job in Dec. and haven't been able to find another one which has undone all the work I'd done over the last several years to pull out of depression, put me right back to square one emotionally/mentally and I just gave up on a lot of things, gained back all the weight I'd lost, stopped taking care of myself. I am not sure what I'm going to do, but I will work on getting myself in a better emotional/mental state. I'm going to be catching up on your videos over the next several days or so then start commenting again.
I have family in boca rotan. There is a place in west palm beach it used to be owned by Darel Adam's amazing place took up a compleat city block. There dealer lot was wow! I was looking to get a vw411. This was in 1990 or so.
I would have thought that the engine would look much worse after having so much water in it. I think the cam and bearings were already worn out before.
Yes, considering it was full of water for about a year it looks pretty good. Yes, the engine was worn out a long time ago. I think of you every-time I reach for the 10 & 15mm =) Thanks again my friend!
4:30: "Mahle" is right. This is a chief supplier of special cold - forged lightweight pistons, the kind favoured by tuners, as these pistons are reduced in weight, by construction and also thanks to a special aluminium / zinc / magnesium alloy. Thus reduced weight means less mass to be moved and more horsepowers!
What would have been so hard about pressure washing the engine after you got all the shrouds off? Unless you like working in filth. Clean engines are much easier to work on and see damage. Just saying.
