I 1st found this channel without the translations and I still watched it I was starting to learn their language than found the other channel with the translations in now I know no Russian language
@@lucasvanhamburg4937 Look up the 1011 series of engines ( F2L1011, F3L1011, F4L1011, F2L1011F, F3L1011F, F3M1011F, F4M1011F, and BF4M1011F. ) These do not have any cooling fins on the cylinders or cylinder head and are completely oil cooled and are built just like a water cooled engine. They have a built in oil cooler and fan. The older series of Deutz were direct air cooled ( like the 914 series that includes F3L914
@@thomasdemell4388 Don't know but maybe not, since starter motors are designed to run under load. Perhaps a few of them could pull the weight of a car.
@@sambo9855 They are not designed for continuous duty. Very short duty cycle. It wouldn't run very long. They would need to use motors designed to run continuously. Its called a duty cycle. Im not gonna explain it but if you want to know, look it up.
lol yeah seems like they got a lada tree xD. but i think russia manufactured these cars up to like 2012 or somthing so theres a ton of them out there in the baltic/russian regions. in sweden they are rare tough and cost like 2000-6000euros
If i were a guessing guy i would have to say that in not too long the radiator and coolant channels will get clogged right up and then overheat.. but then again when it does overheat, oil becomes more viscous when hot so guess it would clear em out at that point if built enough pressure. Only thing is water turns to steam when heated and works the thermostat springs in the system and circulates that way.. oil will not vaporize like that and build pressure. But the water pump i guess would compensate for some of that... maybe just remove the thermostat and make sure you completely get all the water and antifreeze out so it wont milkafy the earl and would be good.. dunno..
@@Z-Ack the thermostat opens in a car due to the temperature not steam. You can see this by putting one in cold and hot water. The spring will move and open/close the thermostat. So oil would actually work altho it might take a little more time for the engine to heat the oil to the point of circulation. Oil is used in some regards as a coolant in other scenarios so would work on a car in theory. You would have to drive a car 100,000+miles on oil to really see what advantages or disadvantages are found. On top of this the heater matrix uses hot water to heat the cabin of the car and the impellor might not work well with oil being thicker.
@@Z-Ack The channels wouldn't clog, they're big enough. I would figure the lightest weight oil available would be used. I'd expect the water pump itself to be a problem. It's got blades instead of a trochoid like an oil pump, so I'm not sure how well it would move oil. Water doesn't turn to steam when heated, it does so when boiled. Boiling point raises with pressure, hence the cap, and why a hot engine will boil over when a cap is removed even though it wasn't boiling before. The thermostat isn't held closed by springs, it's held closed by a wax puck. The spring is trying to open it. When heated, that ball of wax can't resist the spring trying to open it any more. Vaporization is a completely different thing. Vapor isn't liquid, it's a gas. Look into fuels and how to get them burning efficiently. Emulsion, (milkshake) could be a problem, but it might help and actually be better than pure oil. Depends on how well it would flow and it's thermal efficiency, or lack thereof. I honestly have no idea, but I'd be curious to see the effects either way.
@@mrtrendizzle That's kinda what I was curious about. How well would the oil absorb and release the heat. It's generally used as a heat sink, not necessarily as a coolant, like in transformers and stuff. I'm not sure if it could actually pick the heat up quick enough to stop thermal runaway in the head without cooling fins to help. I'm sure engine developers tinkered with it back when everything was transitioning over from air(oil) cooled, but I've never actually read anything about it.
The farmers have beaten you to it! - In the 1930s and '40s when tractors, like the Standard Fordson, and Fordson Major E27N had a 22 gallon cooling system, anti-freeze was expensive and hard to get, it was also an expensive job to repair a frost damaged engine block, so, many of the owners decided it was cheaper to use oil as a coolant instead. In later years (1950's) it was cheaper to use diesel fuel as a coolant. It worked well enough back then, but worth remembering that those cooling systems did not have any rubber hoses, so there were no issues with the oil damaging rubber parts. Other 'rubberless' cooling systems in other tractors/vehicles could be treated the same way - Of course, a coolant leak would increase the risk of a fire if it dripped or sprayed onto a hot exhaust. Swings and roundabouts, I guess. Oil as a coolant? Definitely a 107% success!
Nothing new. Many large industrial machines that have substantial hydraulics systems on them run the hydraulic oil through the engine to both keep it at a stable temperature plus eliminate one more fluid and related heat exchange system to take care of.
Fantastic video fellas! I’ve never really thought about it like that, but I suppose it works as you’ve demonstrated! Definitely an entertaining channel! Keep up the good work guys!!
As oil is cheaper than antifreeze (if you buy the cheap stuff), maybe we would all be better off using oil in the crankcase AND in the cooling system. Saving money is an appealing concept and your research indicates that there would be absolutely no adverse effects. This way, we only need to keep a stock of one fluid for our engine's health and happiness! Thank you Garage 54! In these troubled times, you've shown us a simple way to save money and simultaneously simplify our lives!
Awesome as usual your videos are always pushing the envelope fun, creativity, exploring new avenues . Thank you for your curiosity and ability to see thru crazy ideas , a real cornerstone of my you tube viewing experience
That would be interesting, renew the head gasket all together and fill the cooling system with engine oil, let it run to operating temp and then put the car through a vigorous testing course, high rooms and idle speeds
Really interesting idea. I can remember watching video of someone building a computer in a fish tank filled with mineral oil. The oil doesn't short electronics and is good at heat transport which is why it works and the processor isn't destroyed by heat. The cooling fans move slow since oil is heavier than air, but circulate the oil. That said, I wonder if combining the lubrication and cooling system on a production run would work. Basically what you did here, but I'm thinking something where this was intentionally done in the engine design. The oil and water pump could be reduced to a single pump with a single circulation system.
I have a co-worker, who used to worked with rally cars earlier. They also used lower viscosity oil as coolant in case the rally car had blown the head gasket.
@@tonys1636 Also, in plenty of engines, the fuel is used as somewhat of a coolant. The most extreme case of this is rocket engines where kerosene is both fuel and coolant, as well as hydraulic fluid for all the moving parts.
@@tonys1636 NOT very flammable though. It is a 1 out of 4 for flammability. Its not like you would get a fireball if your engine overheated and steamed the engine compartment with coolant vapor.
Years ago my husband forgot to put antifreeze in his pickup one fall. When winter came and his engine froze, it cracked the head and steam was coming out of the exhaust. So he drained the cooling system and filled it with diesel fuel. It worked great for about a month until the hot diesel fuel rotted the radiator hose and it blew going down the road. steamy diesel fuel was everywhere, he's lucky it didn't ignite. He got it home flushed it out real good and replaced all of the hoses and put some of that liquid glass block seal stuff in it which cured the problem in the head. That's the biggest problem, those hoses are made for coolant not oil and the oil will eat the rubber in the hoses up. But... there won't be any corrosion in the cooling system though, LOL!
It would have been interesting to see what the oil as a coolant did in normal circumstances, not deliberately damaging the engine first. I wonder if it would have actually worked.
This is an excellent way of introducing oil cooling by running it through the primary radiator. The size of the hp oil bypass channel you cut was a fluke. An oil pressure gauge would have been handy to see what that bypass did, your bearings may not float properly. This is all solvable with another paper napkin and samohon design session. Well done. Looking forward to V1.1 !!!
For the engine's normal operating temp range a 20 F or 70 F outside environment temperature doesn't make much of a difference, it will not see a 50 F difference in temperature, the operating temperature is not even closely linear to the outside temperature unless its something like -40F or +125 and even then the engine will still operate at close to the nominal temperature
My dad worked for a farmer in the early 60s who had a D8 dozer,and he used diesel fuel in the radiator! All the time. Anybody else ever heard of this before? I've been around equipment most of my life,and I've never heard of this. My dad never knew anyone else who did this.
@Benjamin Getz lol i mean some people's nerves are more sensitive to it and can demylenate/depolymerise but i wouldnt say it EATS people lol ive handled it
Basically turning this car into an air-cooled variant. Older porches and VW's used oil (a lot more liters) to cool the engine by using a radiator to cool the oil circulating through.
I really enjoy your videos. This is real science and it makes me think about how I could get home if this was what I had to do. It really doesn't hurt anything. As far as repairing the motor afterwards I have seen my stepdad use dishwasher detergent to cut motor oil out of the cooling system because it doesn't get all sudsy.
Back in the early 1900s when internal combustion engines were in their infancy, an American company called rumley unveiled their Oil Pull tractors that used oil for coolant.
when you mix coolant with oil, you get brown paint. I know because I ejected tons of the stuff from my engine in my old car. It includes microscopic rust. Stains anything that it touches.
Not really, because you’re losing your cylinder pressure, and it would mean you’re losing your hot exhaust gasses into the cooling system. Thus, heating the oil faster than the radiator can cool it. Also it would probably cause it to bubble quite a bit and overflow.
@@brandonjones4666 Also, if the oil in the cooling system were to leak into the crankcase, it would overfill and the oil would become aerated and the engine will eventually seize. As for the oil being pushed into the cooling system, most cooling systems arent designed to work above 20 psi. The oil pump provides about 50 psi.
Be interesting to see long term and high load scenarios, see what effects it has on corrosion and if the oil can keep up with higher heat output like water can.
Yeah i had a ford 6 that overheated in anything over 28 C in summer the same car in winter was fine, a cut price wrecker / mechanic had a ford ute that had no radiator - the top and bottom engine hoses was joined together with a metal pipe - he said he can get 5 to 10 min out of it before it pings and he just shuts it down - he used it as a a forklift / box trailer to move engines and gearboxes from upfront of the yard to the rear or pick good at the back and take them up front to customers - he ran it this way for 6 years
Have done this in an 89 ford LTD while delivering pizzas. Got oil in the coolant. Flushed the whole mess and filled it up with rotella. Ran the radiator cap overflow to the oil fill cap. Worked for months until I got another car.
@@SwapBlogRU It is done... Could probably be done in a car as well, but would need some oil pump for the cooling system. Probably wouldn't work well in most engine blocks either.
If these videos keep going, someone is going to have the bright idea to open a Lada dealership in the US. I just checked and only found a handful of used Ladas on old websites.
I watch all your videos twice. Once on your Russian channel with subs and again whenever you get to the English dub. I love your brand, please give BMI Russian a raise and full time position. We all need more Garage 54!!!
This is a very good system. If the oil pump fails, the water pump will take over, if the water pump fails the oil pump will take over. Garage 54 ingenuity at its best.
A quick search shows that the specific heat and thermal conductivity of coolant are both much higher than for oil. In a snowy Russia this wont matter, the engine is designed to work everywhere from Siberia in winter to Death Valley in summer so there is lot of unused cooling capacity. On a warm summers day the engine would overheat with several different potential failure routes. It was still great fun, those Ladas are tough :-)
Nice one guys that’s a cool video I ran a tractor that was made somewhere in Europe in that was manufactured in the 1930s that used oil as coolant The one problem with oil as coolant is it’s heat retention,,, once it is hot it doesn’t like to cool down so an engine will over heat ,,,, the other problem is all your coolant hoses on a car are not comparable with oil products ,,,, but nice video Thank you
I would like to try this experiment here in Phoenix Arizona. I don’t think oil would cool down in the radiator fast enough in triple digit temperatures. Great experiment, thank you.
it would be interesting to drive a few years like that with this car. if the engine doesn’t generate too much heat it may be better then water for keeping the block clear of rust. Anyway beware that if the coolant system is contaminated you will need to clean the oil thoroughly doing several flushes but if you put oil in it it may be even harder. keep the heater on cold so the heater core stays shut.
There is a company that makes oil for the cooling system, alot of advantages. It was a minesite using it in their big generators. The kit involved draining coolant, flushing a solvent thru to remove all traces of coolant, fill with their oil and fit their radiator cap (low pressure). It has better heat transfer between the block and the oil, then the oil and the radiator, not pressurized, oils lasts life of engine, parts don't corrode. It wasn't just engine oil, but oil made for that type of job.
Before antifreeze and water was used, diesel fuel was used as a coolant. That obviously had some drawbacks,such as thinned out motor oil, but maybe multi grade motor oil such as 5w/ 40w would address both issues?
I know of a farmer who put an air cooled engine in his farm truck. He ran the oil thru the heater core to stay warm in the winter. The engine was a Diesel engine out of a farm tractor.
YES :D I thought about this with the old international tractors. The head gaskets go, but also the O rings at the bottom of the cylinders. On an old tractor it isn’t worth an engine rebuild. But, if the rad leak off pipe went to the rocker box top and I ran an oil line to keep the radiator full of oil it would have worked. I didn’t get a suitable customers tractor to try it on though :o(
Well... the oil might not completely freeze, but it's definitely not as liquid as water with anti-freeze. I'd worry that the super thick oil wouldn't warm up in enough places to cool the engine before it overheated.
It would be fun to try swapping fluids like coolant in the crank case and oil in the cooling system at the same time. Might be fun for other systems like power steering or transmission, fuel, etc...
I filled a dead '99 Jeep cherokee sport 4.0l that sat under a tree without oil in it up in the northeast for 15 years completely with liquid chain/bearing degreaser instead of oil and it started right up and is Still running with the Same batch of lubricant in it better than it ever has!
This is so true, you never know what the motor wants to do, every head gasket fail is unique, I give you tip, if your head gasket gets coat of ‘lubriplate’ never blow and even reusable after disassembly, . But I like messing with port and polishing heads on my v6 Capri, they gasket expensive
Many years ago I felt that the whole engine lubrication system could go through the front radiator as well as the sump, the main problem being filtering residue particles from inside the engine block from the casting process, which would need multiple filters, but apart from the cost of oil changes would be beneficial in cold countries!
Wish they put the smallest slit possible on the gasket. Enough to leak, but slowly. Would have been a good exercise in learning how quickly it would would go full blow out.
