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Without a rolled lip on the ends of the clear tube I knew those connections were going to blow with pressure. Boiling water, and steam even more so, is nothing to mess around with. People have died after getting covered with boiling water and steam. That one guy is lucky he's not in the burn ward today.
It's absurd that they didn't learn their lesson at the slightest until the second time it happened. And they're lucky the third time was a slow failure rather than a explosive one, considering that they essentially built a steam powered soda bottle bomb.
@@IntegerOfDoom Tiring of hearing the phrase "no joke" is indeed no joke. The amount of discomfort and psychological harm that can come of it is really no joke. Lest we forget, its no joke that we find a synonym for "no joke", because if we keep hearing "no joke" for much longer the consequences will indeed be be no joke. Seriously. No joke.
Fill the system with a pure antifreeze without any water and watch what will happen. Pure antifreeze will be able to handle almoust 200 degrees of celsius temperature before it will start to boil. That would be nice to see.
Normally I watch your videos for entertainment. This video was actually very entertaining, and very informative. I learned a lot with this video, Thank You.
I have been scalded by a very hot and finicky cooling system before. Not a fun time by the way, so you guys be careful when dealing wirh hot engines and their cooling systems. I was lucky when it happened to me, but I still dealt with at least a 1st degree burn over most of my chest. I was like a really severe sunburn for me. So for your sake please be very careful. Love your guys' content. always interesting and entertaining.
I love those old copper ( or brass/bronze) radiators. They would easily outlast the cheap aluminium ones large manufacturers put in their vehicles these days.
In the early 1990's I had an '85 VW Scirocco turbo. I wanted to increase the boost from the factory 6 psi to something higher, but I realized that 1. I needed an intercooler. Callaway sold one with their kit, but I never got to that point with the car. 2. I needed better cooling before I added boost; I was thinking 11 psi. So I tried what was called "Evans Cooling", which was advertised in European Car magazine via an article in which they used it on a GTI. I bought the kit and had it professionally installed. Evans Cooling uses NO water, just pure propylene glycol with a bunch of additives. It was advertised to run considerably cooler than stock but with NO PRESSURE cap. It ran at atmospheric pressure. OK, so I tried it, and guess what? It was complete bullshit! My car overheated after about 20 minutes of driving. Why? Propylene glycol cannot transfer heat anywhere near as well as plain water! What I found out later was that with a larger water pump and a CUSTOM radiator with fewer but larger tubes, this stuff could indeed take care of the cooling duties, and the boiling point was WAY higher! What I learned: What you read in magazine articles about products is probably produced by the product itself. The article said NOTHING about needing a different water pump/radiator, and these weren't even available while the company foisted this CRAP on the Volkswagen community! European Car magazine these days is bullshit, all it shows is high dollar modified cars and there are few do it yourself articles. Bring back VW&Porsche magazine!
Water is the best refrigerant or "cooling agent" available as far as I'm aware of. Per mass it can transfer alot more BTU's/hr or kW/hr than other refrigerants in the market today and that includes propylene. If I could use just pure distilled water in my car I would but propylene is needed for it's anti corrosive properties. Where I live in can get away with just 5% propylene but usually just do close to 10%. Colder climates that reach below freezing need more.
It is better to replace it every few years, on my one got the mechanics a bit crazy The Manuel says it has the French red coolant but had blue in it, but if it was the German or French blue nobody knew, so to fill it up got yellow coolant used which is compatible with both, so I had coolant that was green. Found out a lot of service hasn't been done, like the timing belt (2 years over), both fuel filters (big one 2 years, smal one 4 years), airfilter (4 years) and much more. They worked 15h on it, and now it has a big performance difference
The pressure really make a huge difference in boiling temperature, and when the pressure drops the water will boil furiously. With enough of a difference you get something called a flash conversion where water goes from liquid to gaseous without passing the boiling stage. This can be extremely dangerous as in this conversion the volume goes up by something like 1700 times! This means there are a whole lot of superheated steam spewing out at ridiculous speeds. My father worked at a heating central and the system worked at something like seven or eight bars, and the water temperature was between 120 and 140 degrees. The high pressure was because they heated a few high rises and the temperature was because if you had to use high pressure why not make use of the increased heat capability... Well a system heating over a thousand apartments will contain quite a bit of water, and when it is heated up it will change in volume quite a bit. To account for this they had a huge pressure tank that with a volume of something like fifty cubic meters. This was the expansion vessel, but even that wasn't enough to hold the overflow if the system had gone cold. They had an automatic fill function that added water if the level in the expansion tank got to low. But when the temperature got up to working range there were no automatic system for draining the necessary water, so you had to do that manually. Lest just say that opening that huge ball valve and letting out a few cubic meters of 120°C water was kind of scary. The room was not that large and the amount of steam was very impressive. You really got the feeling that if you stuck your hand in the jet you would get back a skeleton hand... They also had the hot water line in the building connected directly to the boilers. That meant you had boiling water in the tap. A lot of visitors got scalded by not thinking about that even though there were warning plaques. You got used to it and it was great when cleaning up after a meal. Just blast the plates with boiling high pressure water. It got rid of just about anything and disinfected the rest...
In Romania if we go to a race we redirect the washer fluid nozzle to the front of the intercooler so when you press the button it sprays directly on the intercooler dropping the temperature.
Engine coolant additives become acidic, acid and metal in presence of oxygen creates corrosion...from my nissan N-Step 1 training like 20 yrs ago, i was taught to measure the voltage generated by the liquid in cooling system, using a multimeter to measure voltage dc, black test lead to car chassis, red test lead just in contact with the liquid in cooling system...a reading of more than 0.15V dc means the liquid has become acidic and is reacting with metals, usually aluminium corrodes first/easily...if have a full cast iron engine, no steel or aluminium parts present, a reading of 0.32V dc is the limit...also from experience, using demineralised water such as rain water in cooling system is best as would have less ions present to generate acids...but rain water can have dissolved oxygen and carbon dioxide, best practice is to try and bleed out air from system with engine at boiling temp...dissolved gases come out of solution...what i do is gently open my cooling system cover with engine hot till water starts to come out ..run car next day, when hot perform the same...topping up fluid as needed...after about 2 weeks, get literally all dissolved gases out...and cooling system fluid remains clean for years...no corrosion
@@MushookieMan standing next to a tire at 100 PSI is probably safer than standing next to an exploding spray of superheated water & steam -- steam injuries are no joke & tires don't usually pop till 150-250 psi
Hello 54 cool RU-vid Channel i loved the experiments that you do so i subscribe to you and Thank You for sharing this content i really appreciate and enjoyed it
Nascar engines pressurize the coolant system to around 50 psi and run the water around 280. Turns out the cars are faster having less drag from cooling than the loss of horsepower from running so hot.
looks like I'm going to have to do my truck, that thing hasn't had a change in a long time cause there is a smell like very weak antifreeze when it comes back from a long run. thanks, I guess I'll have to replace the cap too...
Give all the hoses, clamps, and your radiator a thorough check before you replace the cap. It's fairly common for the caps to weaken over time and instead of holding 12psi may only hold 6, or even near none.... So one you put a fresh cap on the system is suddenly able to pressurize and if you have a broken clamp, or a cracked radiator it can blow apart. So, find your leak before replacing the cap.
Hi Garage 54! Here is a idea, can you guys please mix diesel and gasoline 2:1 ratio? 2 parts Gasoline 1 part Diesel and measure if it gives you more mileage and more horsepower or torque? Thank you!
try making an ethanol vaporization heat pipe cooler, low vacuum with ethanol liquid to gas and to liquid cooling tower, heat transporter, from the part to a radiator cooler, keeps them separate, no burn
I'm pretty sure, that ethanol is also pretty flammable so it might not be the best thing for cooling something, that literally works by combusting vaporized gasoline
@@Jkauppa yes, I would like to see it as an experiment, but I'm just saying, that it's not the best thing to use as coolant, as it's basically fuel and will likely make a really big explosion if the ethanol (gas) leaks out (fast enough)
Lada niva 1600 it just won't overheat no matter what even when doing 2k rpm climbing off road uphill for 15 minutes in slow 1st towing about 400-500 kilos in 43 celcius hottest summer day.. after that i even removed the temp sensor and apllied heat to it to make sure the sensor and gauge are working properly.. it's sad i hear the 1.7 after 1994 have some issues
He would need a ton of liquid nitrogen, liquid nitrogen boils a lot faster than water. It may be really cold but it's heat transfer capacity is nowhere near to that of water. Still would be fun to watch lol
Those dudes are crazy or just so impregnated with vodka. Just standing around when boiling water spraying in all directions. It is a miracle they still have all limbs.
The one going through it? Starter handle, Ladas were one of the last few cars built that you could hand-crank to start them if the battery was too low or the starter was goosed, there's a hole in the body for it as well so the handle can pass right through without lifting the bonnet... :)
funny would be from the sports bike from the downhill bike the front spring for all 4 on the car grin or the brakes from the bike the oil brakes grin 😉
These guys need to work on their safety protocols a bit. As someone who’s been burnt by a cooling system that failed, that is not something you all should have been so carelessly messing around with. The video was fascinating, but you should have either used some proper fittings or it should have all been filmed remotely. Seriously, this was dangerously done.
I love Russians for their lack of health and safety, obviously there only doing this for a laugh and there’s some actual educational value here too . Funny how the male species are always willing to put their health and lives at risk for the benefit of others . One of our most underrated, overlooked qualities one thinks !!! ❤🇬🇧👍😇
