In my layout..i do straight cuts on the wall opposite the door and cope so the cope is always out of the sight line....if that makes sense....and cut both flat and upside down.....good video
I don’t get to do much trim work being a form setter/ framer. But when I do Spencer is my secret weapon. I do it exactly like he shows in his videos. I get lots of compliments from the older carpenters. They all have a barrel grip jig with a coping foot now. I get to show old dogs new tricks. Thanks Spencer.
These skills can still come in really handy as a concrete guy. Especially when you get into installing chamfer with compound angles and any architectural concrete
Another great video. I wanted to comment half way through asking about your cut list. You have nailed this whole system and explain it so perfectly. Thanks.
I made a whole house cut list just like yours when I was still trimming mostly new construction. I can’t get on my knees anymore. I always used a traditional hand coping saw. Still do however I cut the flats on the miter saw but I never thought to cut base upside down. On walls needing a scarf I don’t cope those pieces as well as pieces that make an outside corner. Another good tip for beginners is to cut all your long lengths first and using the drop for small pieces and don’t forget to number the back of every piece. I miss trimming houses but I really love being in the wood shop now.
Wow you THOROUGHLY sold me on this technique. I’m just a homeowner but I’ve trimmed out two of my homes now with material all flat to the saw top and I 100% see the benefits of this instead. Plus I JUST got my dream DWS779!
Just did baseboard for the first time and tried every way. Ended up on upside down and vertical too. When right side up and vertical I realized my base has a thinner profile at the top so if I cut on the line, it cut more off the bottom and my cut was too short. The bevel was too annoying to keep switching and you can't cut 45.5 deg bevels on my dewalt 779. Stops at 45. Great tips! Wish I'd watched this first
It's the most efficient way for me to cut base. It cuts out that awkward step of flipping the piece over and around, to make the straight cut on the cope. I typically cut my outside miters, with the back of the base facing me as well. That way I'm not leaning over the saw, trying to see my line. Cutting base upside down, is just one of the many tips I've picked up from Spencer. So many people dismiss new ways of doing things, simply because "This is how I've always done it". In my 42 years on this earth, I've figured out a thing or two, and one of those is, my way, may not always be the best way. Keep an open mind and be willing to try new things, you may be surprised at how well it works for ya.
Great advice sir! I’ve bin building houses for over 30 years and everyday I still wake up asking myself how can I improve on what I did yesterday. Your advice is very appreciated!
I'm a diy guy who found that this was a really good way to cut found that flat cutting didn't give the accurate cut all the time. But I'd get a head ache trying to cut whole level !!! Strictly one room at a time !!! Great info !!!!
I've been a finish carpenter for over 30 years. I find that most people have zero idea of how much brain power it takes to do this job, and more importantly do it well. 👍
Nice reply. I’m a retired project manager from the aerospace engine industry. I had a interesting career and did my job well but always felt since my teens that being a carpenter was to be my calling. Specifically a trim carpenter. I’ve always done my own home trim work. And your very right about the brain power aspect of that trade. Spencer for his age is an amazing one man skilled trades man. I envy you guys that do it for a living. Leaving your mark everyday and doing it well has got to be super rewarding.
People are mind-bogglingly out of touch. I recently went to repair a ton of base in a house where their dog had peed it into oblivion and about ten minutes after I arrived, while ripping the base out, the homeowner asked if I was done yet. I was hired to finish it through PAINTING.
Cool approach. I’d be interested know the actual time difference across a whole job. Using the coping food for coping requires very little effort. If you were coping by hand I can see how it would be a huge time saver. All in all good video.
Spencer great stuff as always, I peeped that access panel and am requesting you do a video of how you finish those off.. do you screw them in or use a hinge or magnet? These are an opportunity for our homes we build here in Pittsburgh.
Will work with perfectly straight materials. But when I work with solid woods - perfectly straight is not even remotely possible. Also in my area the minimum base height is 7”, that’s why I just trained myself and my guys to cut flat and develop the muscle memory for it
All makes sense! I never did that with base but did with crown (learning years ago from This Old House!). Question: I always do the base after the flooring is down since there is usually a gap around the room to allow for expansion and the bottom of the base covers that. Are you just precutting this first without knowing if it will hard surface floor, or carpeting? (I should say I was pulling up old carpet and replacing with laminate) Thanks
First of all i really enjoy your videos. The quality you produce is in my opinion is A+ and the skill and techniques you use are very efficient..I noticed you were cutting the baseboards before the floor was installed. Does this mean you were installing the baseboards before the flooring then possibly adding a shoe to cover the gaps. Is there a reason for this? I know this is probably a customer preference. Just wondering. Keep up the good work
Great videos thanks for all the great advice. One question do you have a video on your chop saw and the wood 🪵 supports you made. They look like a lot of thought went into them. Thanks again!
I used to work with this guy that marked all his cuts on his list on the opposite side when cutting crown. Thats fine I get why he does it but I've always marked it the way its on the wall and I just know its opposite at the saw. His way irritated me bc I'd tell him I need a 39 3/4 outside 45 on the left and he'd cut an outside right. I was like man I'm not going to say it backwards too. That just gets too damn confusing. Speaking of measuremnts I'm curious if you write out fractions when writing down measurements or do you only use 16ths so its just one number to write? For example instead of writing down 4 3/4. I write 4 12. 2 is 1/8, 4=1/4, 10=5/8. Once someone showed me this way I never went back. Quicker and easier to write and say, less chance for someone to make a mistake and think you said 3/16 when you said 3/8. I still use both ways because a couple of the guys I work with can't grasp it or just dont want to. So if I'm writing it for them to read I'll write the fraction, for me just the 1 number. It can also make math easier. I wouldn"t recommend this way for a beginner because I think theres value in learning to do the math in fractions first. The main reason I do it is simply because it's less to write and when you're writing down a couple hundred measurements in a day it makes a difference. Sorry I probably over explained that a bit. Anyways, does anyone else use this method?
I've retired from doing production trim but when I was doing it, like Spencer, I measured and cut a whole floor at a time. However, I had an employee who was shooting the trim in as I was cutting. It's a great way to run baseboard.
I have been a painter for a long time... Where the F!@# are the trim guys like you? I've been dealing with kids that can't even sink their nails into the boards, let alone lay the board flat to the wall. Caulk does hide the fact that a crappy trim guy was there... it points to him.
Nothing beats take some back wood out, makes it easier to cut the piece a bit long and snap the longer pieces of base into place. If a bit long it's more or less easier to (while snapping the piece in place) to slightly crush the fine leading edge left from backing cutting into the other piece of base that your butting up to... Wow.. Hope that makes sense, probably much easier to demonstrate than to explain (at least for me) lol
@@jasonh3188 yes obviously we're speaking about coping the base but I've seen ppl make a coping cut without removing enough back wood making it harder to ever so slightly crush the leading edge while snapping the piece into place. (bending)
Just another excellent, excellent video from you, really glad I found your channel - I've been a cabinetmaker over 30 years, but you've got lots to teach about running finish trim that building casework doesn't encompass. One thing, when using the chop saw to cut out the waste on your miter, you correctly lifted the blade out of the cut before releasing the trigger. This is something that becomes automatic once you've spoiled enough cuts when the blade brake cuts in and the saw head kicks down. Worth pointing out to folks who haven't used a chop saw much.
I am waiting for him to mention this as I watch the video. Very good point. I've learned that the hard way and I've seen many make that mistake as well.
In Sweden we often use pre painted baseboards.. so I , depending on angel of course, always have the painted 2sides towards my eyes.. the backside doesn’t get as good crisp cut as the 2 sides towards you. Make sense?
Yep. With pre finished trim, you can (and will) have some tearout on the top edge. I did alot of pre finished oak trim, and cutting upside down is a certain way to ruin pieces.
Most people do not have the taller fences. Laying the boards flat and using the saw bevel is the only way to get the correct cut. Any one following this video will not have the same results.
This is awesome, I appreciate that this isn't targeted towards beginners, but people already in the trades looking to hone a specific skill further, the way a specialist would do it.
I'm in the field every day running trim. I like your videos you're an excellent Carpenter. But when streamlining baseboard cutting on the flat is the fastest way by far. You can watch your blade as it comes to the first profile perfectly to make your cope a quick shot. Adjusting your miter is definitely quicker than adjusting your bevel, but with the right trim saw it's a routine that one Masters quickly. Keep up the good work and thank you for all the awesome videos. 👌 keep them coming.
ive always cut vertically for outside corners your 45's come out perfect the blade doesnt flex but if im doing inside corners coping ill cut it with my coping saw
Great video! Pretty cool to see we have nearly the exact tool belt setup. But, I cut on the flat use a coping saw and put a 15degree backcut on the straight length cutting a single room at a time in a counter-clockwise pattern with the copes on the right side.
This has been incredibly helpful - thank you! My husband and I bought a fixer upper post empty nest, something we’ve always wanted to do because we thought it would be a “fun” challenge. Well, we got the challenge part right and no single task more than baseboards. We’ve always had a healthy respect for carpenters but oh my gosh it’s on a whole other level now. You have to be geometry wizards!
Cant cut vertical most of the time in the uk as the plaster finish kicks out at the bottom so you have to cut out of square which would be a pain in the vertical position
Spencer, your camera work and videos overall keep just getting better and better. Entering into another league of not only carpenters, but RU-vidrs. Thank you for sharing this knowledge - I do plan to use it. Just became a Patron to support your work.
Thanks! I just saw your support email come through. I really appreciate the support and glad the videos are helping. Also thanks for the feedback. I have been working much harder on video quality and upping my videography game, so its good to hear that the viewers are noticing.
"its very simple, everything is opposite" lol. Great video and excellent information. It's crazy how simply switching orientation of a board can increase productivity. I have been cutting base vertically and right side up but I will definitely be trying to get used to cutting this way. Thanks again!
Hey Spencer, I cut my baseboard on the flat. I don’t tighten the back knob and my saw drops freely to the left, down to 46° and back up to 0° when I need a straight cut. I make a 46° cut for the cope. Then I make a straight cut trough the cope the way you do it, hook up with my tape to that cut, and measure - say 100”. Then make that 100” cut and finish the cope with the jig saw. It’s another way to do it and doesn’t require a super good blade, because it pulls the material in with the teeth from the face or high quality wings like yours. Love your videos.
I've done it just like this in the past, leaving the bevel knob loose, only when doing 11" mdf that the HO wanted coped for some reason, it worked pretty well but I was nervous about the saw rotating while cutting
You are talking about crowns and twist in the finish stock you have. It is best to cull those pieces of long stock, use the straighter pieces and only use culls for short runs (or, send the bad ones back. You are paying premium prices for trim, don't let them (Suppliers) give you sub-standard product. It helps everyone in the long run. Complain, if everyone does, the level will rise) I have never found a finish floor (if you are, as I do, putting base on TOP of finish floor,) that is straight and flat along the run. Floor finishers are solely concerned with "smooth", not flat, straight or fair. My standards mean the bottom edge, (that faying surface where base meets floor,) needs to be scribed.
Lots of good arguments and some weak ones but I'm still going to cut base flat, face down with the top facing me. I take my measurements from the walls at approximately the top of where the base will be. The backside of the base is the wall and the mark is easier to see and cut if it's on the back. Self returns are also for me easier to do on the flat.
I understand a little...great video..question..if the wall is longer than the length of baseboard, what degree cuts do u make for joining the baseboard in the middle..thanks....Im not exactly sure what u r explaining, i start counter clockwise, install my first piece, then I cut my joining piece on a 45 degree to the left and cut that out with a coping saw...every piece i cut standing upright..very much a newbie here..
Been a carpenter for a long time never had a problem with inside meters and outside meters. We cut baseboard in a normal cut without a slider chop saw. The only time we cut upside down is only a crown molding not baseboard. However, the cope for baseboard is cool.
vertical cuts only work with millwork small enough for the saws cutting capacity. learn both techniques and you will be able to be efficient. I'm not a production contractor though, mainly custom.
of instead of wasting cash buying Auxiliary Fences attach a piece of 1x6 to the stock fence with double stick tape or drill a couple of holes in the fence and use some screws to attach the 1x6
These suggestions work great for production baseboard. No idea what you've said regarding longer frame of reference other than wood not being straight. That makes sense when it sits vertical and the base better represents the floor. Lost me after that. But that's a nice piece of machinery, though. That DWS780. Although I did read that severak of these models, including the DWS780, had a stop sale. The issue (a manufacturing defect with the rear guard breaking in a small number of saws) affects the DWS780 DWS779 and DHS790 and can occur when the blade throws a piece of wood on the guard.
I would like to see an in depth demo on how to measure wall then how to measure that onto the base board, how to cut on Or next to line , and whether to measure your length to back side of mitre cut? My piece always “ shrinks “ after i cut the measurement!
First video I have watched if yours. I like how you are concise and very informative. Very professional. Love the video. I’m an electrician and I wish I could present information the way you do. You’re a natural born teacher. Keep up the good work man.
Of course I find this after I complete a job. Trying to fix a job that the base was moved down leaving unfinished drywall above the baseboard... I would have just gotten taller molding but you can't get any molding right now...
I’ve been a finisher for 20 years, mostly high end remodels. There is almost no new construction where I am other than additions so I do mostly finish work on houses built before 1940. And there’s earthquakes. Can you guess where? I really wish my miter saw table and supports mimicked the floor I’m installing on. That said, if it was I’d be paid a lot less than I am. The scribing is pretty involved. And please don’t talk to me about 1/4 round… Anyway, great video with important information as usual. I approve.
If a right side cope is necessary, you can sit the board upside down still, but with the profile facing the fence (depending on the profile perhaps). Then set the depth stop for straight/straight back cuts down to the profile. Flip the depth stop on or off as required.
If you’re doing a remodel and need to scribe to the floor, working off the finished profile (cutting upside down) is a good way to keep you joint angles true.
I've been using a jigsaw for years until somebody showed me to use a flap disc on a grinder to do the cope so much faster so much accurate so much easier
I'm thankful for you pros explaining that this is not a beginner video. Maybe it's the lack of sleep last night, but I'm definitely in the beginner class, so I'm hoping more will sink in after watching this a dozen more times. Some of it makes some sense. Good explanation that moulding can be warped or cupped or twisted, so cutting vertically avoids dealing with that so much. But some of the terms left me confused. That's on me, not you.
The fact your doing inside corners on a miter and not teaching a cope says everything I need to know. FYI for those who believe a YT ppl…. Let’s go 2 steps backward. 1st framing…. Today most jobs bc of whatever use a guy who doesn’t care about level and square…. Just blow and go. 2nd is drywall 99% of the time the Mexicans that do drywall and the lazy Americans tend to fill the corners with mud and sand them the appear slick and smooth. The problem is this….. if you try to put something square in a corner that looks SQ but isn’t a normal miter won’t work and cabinets do not install as per the “perfect world” of AUTOCADD. So as my grandfather and his dad knew before me…. If you COPE a corner it works every time. He isn’t explaining the reason. He is only showing you a “trick”. Also when you cope…. You do a 45 degree or greater cut. So when you do his trick…. Do it at a 45. And yes I troll these videos just to attach them. If you treat every cut as a stained high dollar finish cut then you have zero o worry about when doing painted crap.
It’s a feel thing. If you know you know. Blades tend to resist and smoke a lot more when beveling. You also get way more pitch buildup on the blade when beveling which makes the blade perform like a dull blade.
@@InsiderCarpentry I'm in complete agreement that a vertical cut feels like it's easier on the saw. The original comment about the blade having less contact just made me think, "does it really have less contact during a vertical cut?" I don't know the answer but I definitely prefer the cut vertically. Much less saw manipulation IMO.
@@lscottiv1 When cutting on the flat you get more teeth contacting the work at the same time causing sawdust to fill the gullets and gravity pulls it into the space between the teeth and the kerf creating friction, drag, pitch and possibly smoke. Give Spencer's methods a try, he won't steer you wrong.
@@lscottiv1 when cutting vertically the blade is only contacting the thickness of the workpiece. When cutting flat, the blade is contacting the entire height of the workpiece. If it’s a piece of speed base, that would be 9/16” versus 5 1/4”.
What's up with that shoe on your jigsaw? What's that called and it appears to make coping easier...true? Do you have any videos on how to measure, cut and cope baseboard when the floor is sloping, and the door trims are not level or plumb? I'm having to reproduce 140 year old baseboard that was torn off and thrown away by the inept demo guys. I have to fabricate the wooden baseboards with an Ogee like profile on the top then fit it around wonky angles and stain it to match the existing wood trim around the doors (old growth douglas fir). I'm at a loss as to how to fit the baseboard so it looks halfway decent. I also have an old brick chimney in the middle of one wall the sits at a 67.5 degree angle to that wall meaning I will have one 45 degree corner on the brick that juts into the room and a 67.5 degree angle where the chimney meets the wall (making the cut on the miter saw at 33.75 I believe so the baseboards meet up properly) but again I have a sloping floor and not plumb/level door trims. UGH!!! Where the heck do I start???
Ty for the effort for another great video. The fence link does not work. Also, you are spending $227 on a saw blade, ....better to use this blade and sharpen (now you need 2 blades to cover the downtime) ...worth it?
Love your content keep it coming. Very well organized very well. Set up. I like it. Those outfit tables for your saw, would love to know how you made them. I’d like to see a video on that.
Good information. I almost always cut vertically. I run a lot of 5-1/4 neckbase top side up because I’m lazy and don’t like moving the saw anymore than I must. I cope with a jig saw and for me it seems faster than repeating lining the cut up to just slide the piece to the end of the support and zip out the cope. As always, great video!
What happened to that house that had brick on front and water was causing problems on inside. At the time you couldn’t find what was going on. I forget the episode but it was a while ago. You do great work and videos.
We make our own cabinet basemolding out of 3/4 x 5 1/4 poplar or soft maple . Using our shop corded 12 Bosch slider or 10 cordless Makita, I have to cut on the flat. It is definitely more stress on the motor and blade ,but because they are 90° corners I don't need to cope. I find the Bosch to have very poor sight lines, it involves holding the guard up with your finger then sighting mark and blade. There are desk lights that can be modded for shadowlines,but my boss doesn't like modding tools. Very good videography,and as always the content is outstanding 👏.
Looked through you videos and can't find a door hanging video. Lots of others have done them, I know. But you must have at least one little trick to make us think why we didn't think of that.
Its on the list. When I start a job, I'm ready to get after it and doors are first on the list. So I don't usually feel like starting a job off with making a video.
I would love to some day take full measurements of a room, and cut all the pieces from that and not have to re-cut a single piece haha. Maybe I could, but I've never been brave enough to try hahs
I just started following your channel, awesome work! I'll defiantly be checking out more videos! Separate question for you, how did you make your "Legs" / "Wings" chop saw that you use in this video? I have a similar stand and been trying to figure out way's to create a couple.
Love your stuff, but if youre cutting upside down doesnt that defeat the idea of the reference surface being longer? If the crown is the opposite of how it will be resting on the floor that principal doesnt work anymore.
I like the vertical cuts, less tear out, safer don't have the blade exposed and need the check the cut. Vertical less blade exposure and quickly judge the cut.
What is your opinion of the Makita miter saw? You can adjust the bevel from a knob in the front of the saw rather than reaching around to the back of the saw.
Been doing this a long time and never thought of this. Great tip. Just like cutting ceiling crown. I understand the clockwise method but when I do stain grade work I try to orient my copes to the room to take advantage of the blind joint. I've learned to help the confusion for beginners (and myself on bad brain days) on cutting ceiling crown upside down with two steps that would be the same for base with this upside down method. Identify which end is being cut and put it into the saw upside down. Swing the head in for an inside corner and out for an outside corner. Love your stuff. Great combination of top quality work and efficiency.
So what you're saying Spencer is cope to the left 90 to the right then when you're running around the room going towards the right the next piece will be cope to the left and again 90 to the right. So if we're cutting upside down the cope is always going to fit on the left side as we install the board is that correct
Haha I've done it,or seen it done every way possible,I tend do just pick whatever works best at the time depending on the trim size and honestly how much mud the drywallers used.I was taught to go around the room like you said,but over the years I have learned to put my cope on my short run when given a choice,it may be out of order sometimes but I'd rather put a cope on a 3 ft piece than a 16 footer especially if I can just put two straight cuts on the 16 footer.Youre a good teacher that's for sure and your methods are sound.
