Wheel Bearings Replacement & Repack How To - Toyota Pickup 4Runner 4x4 

This video was more helpful than the Haynes manual.

Thank you very much for the step-by-step expert how to. Perfectly understood everything from A to Z.You are appreciated from a fellow Toyo guy in Oregon!

Great video, just a simple suggestion, the wheel bearing nut sockets are only like 18 bucks. the first nut torque super tight, back off, then tighten to like 50 ft pounds or so and rotate the rotor back and forth about four revolutions each way, then back off nut. Then to finish tightening torque first nut to 20 ft-lbs then tighten second nut to 40 ft-lbs. I know it's not truly the FSM specs, but it has worked for me for 30 years on my toyotas.

great video! thank you for posting. I've been trying to find something that matched my T100 and this is the exact same set-up. awesome job man!

first video I watched working on my Hilux surf that got me into mechanics botched it and used copper grease lmao but now an apprentice mechanic and slowly working towards becoming a qualified mechanic mistake are just proof that you are trying as long as you learn from them

Great video, now I feel confident I can do my wheel bearings on my '93 T100, thanks a lot!

thank goodness, a video showing someone use simple hand tools for this job. Now I think I can tackle this job, I just got done with the lift kit but I wanted to get in there and replace the wheel bearings while I got the whole knuckle assembly out.

People like you bro make the world go round thank you

So far the BEST video out there for the bearings replacement on a 2ng gen Hilux / 4runner ! Thn ak you so much.

Really awesome video thanks so much this is exactly what I was looking for keep up the hard work you helped me out a bunch

Hi! I just wanted to say that my dad and I followed your video and it helped us a ton when we did my brakes! (We did the bearings too). Thank you for making sure an awesome quality video :)

Perfect. Good suggestions not to lose parts and getting things tight enough without a socket big enough to fit.

You have great skills and extreme patience, wow nice work man! I can see myself now getting started on that job and then just getting confused and lost. to me some of that mechanical stuff is like a labyrinth of parts and sequence to remove stuff and reassemble even though I'd very likely get lost doing that job, it's pretty fascinating to see it done right you got skills buddy, no doubt

Hey Jameson....I'm getting tired of saying Thanks to you ! Thanks Dude !

Your video help me change out a broken stud, thanks man.

Thanks for this great video! I will definitely be doing this on my 1990 truck. My local Toyota dealer wanted $800 just for one side. They also said I needed both inner CV boots. Price, $1600.

Thank you! This helped me a lot with my Hiace

Hello from Russia :-) Thanks for the simple tutorial, I`m going to do the same with my Land Cruiser 60 axle bearings. The way you loosen bearing nuts made me crazy, it was really curious. And your tighten method as well.

to make life easier for you and everyone, this ADD HUB has the two screw hole in the opposite side from one another. using a thread screws which should be something like m.12x1 or something numbness just the same thread hole like the rear drum. with that being said leave the bolt on the tip of the stud so that those cone want be flying off. work smart not hard! the stocket is a 54mm and that cost about $20-$25 save the nut life longer this goes for all toyota trucks that has the ADD HUB, LIKE T100, 4RUNNER, TACOMA, AND TUNDRA

Thank you for the sharing the video 👍 I bought a 1991 Toyota 4x V-6 3.0 and getting noise on front driver side,, not as load when in 4 high but jacked her up n there’s a Little play sooooo n next paycheck I’ll be putting in new parts.. MEE point is THANK YOU for the teaching class 👍👍👏👏 I appreciate it 👽🛸

Good vid. I learned I don't think I'd have the patience to try it myself. If I ever have kids, they're taking an auto-shop class.

"Just taap it in. Just taaaaaap it in. Give it a little tappy. Tap, tap, tap-a-roo" LMFAO!!! I know exactly what that's from.

thanks for teaching it, really really nicely done. It was easy learning and every step was understandable.

Awesome video James.. detailed explanation. Put all these away. The moment u are holding camera with ur grease hand. I decided to give u a thumb up. Good effort buddy!

helps a lot thanks buddy.and saved a lot money too

looking at replacing rotors and bearings .Your video will certainly help me. Thanks for sharing ,and yes im female ;)

Exactly what i was looking for, thanks man.

This looks pretty similar to my 100 Series Hub set up. I'm hoping remove the bearings and seals are as easy and straight forward. Thanks for the detail.

Awesome video! Thanks. Going to tackle this job soon on my 91 4runner.

Great video, and Well done! tackling this job tomorrow

Hate snap rings lol Good Instruct man

Really great video. This helps a lot!

Thank you for give us a good video teaching, god bless you.

Very helpful, like Lrrr says way better than the Haynes manual, Thank you! 👍

Great video. My 2004 Toyota Hilux pickup is the same. 😁👍

This is awesome! Do you have a video on removing the steering knuckle on this same model of vehicle?

Great work brother 👍👍👍

Very nice video its gona help me to fix my toyota 100 thanks for posting this video.

Your like the Bob Ross of mechanics

Very good video.

Nice Vid..thanks from germany

Hey bro, excellent vid. Just noticed as you were doing your reassemble, tie rod bushing was split... Thought I'd just give you the old heads up.

Great video Buddy

Great video buddy very helpful in detail👍🏻

thanks for the video. I wasnt aware that a 4x4 model has a dust cap? what about the locking hubs?

You did a very good in this video! Thanks.

Great video. Thanks for putting this together.

Very helpful...thanx...do u have one were you go further in till the outer CV?

I just replaced my shocks, cv shafts, and bearings on my 4runner and your video helped a lot! Only issue I have is my cv spindles won’t stick out enough to get the spacer and safety ring on even while pulling the shaft out. Do you know how to fix this? Thanks!

fantastic video, thanks

Great video man, thanks!

why did you take the snap ring off? on my 87 4runner all that does is hold the half shaft in, the bearing nuts will come off over that. they make sockets for the bearing nuts as well instead of burring them up

Great video bro, will this work for a 1991 Toyota pickup 4x4?

Great video. Very helpful thank you

Have a 1993 T-100 4x4. The brake pedal will occasionally go soft, all the way to the floor, mostly at low speed. A shop replaced the master brake cyl. and two rear cylinders but didn't fix the problem. Now the shop says I need to replace the front wheel bearings (for $600) to fix the problem. Have you ever heard of bad wheel bearings causing a soft brake pedal?

Late but thanks very much for the video.

Awesome.. thanks for the video.. it is what I'm looking for.👍😌

My bearing kit came with outer races to put in the hubs but I've never replaced em. Only even done what you're doing here. Will that be an issue?

This is what I need 👌🏻 I still have a question though, on my 2002 Hilux I experience a vibration when I hit about 100 kph or 60mph. Is this bearing related ? Thanks again for the cool tut!

Would you know if this would work for a 96 Toyota surf?

Great video, very helpful !!!

So, NO on the replace of the inner races on that hub ? Seems like I would need that if I was driving on loose bearing and it worn in an elliptical pattern. Inner races do not fall out willingly or voluntarily. Still trying to figure out how to do this without getting complicated or use oversized hammer.

Thanks for the video, very informative.

awesome video thanks. I got my 93' 4runner that needs a lot of work. I'm going to be doing the same thing pretty soon and my question is where did you get the grease packer? did you order it or can I just buy it at an auto parts store? maybe someday I'll get the courage to make videos of my project.

I did all of this using new brake pads and rotors. I even used the 54mm socket to torque the bearings in correctly per the repair manual. Now I'm getting a bad shudder when I apply the brakes. Especially at higher speeds. I'm thinking maybe one of the new rotors is bad? Maybe a caliper issue? I replaced and lubed the guide pins as well being the were old and didnt slide very well. Any help would be a life saver.

Thx ! for your video sure help me lots

I had a very difficult time sliding the hub back on the spindle. At nine minutes and 10 seconds into your video your hub went on all the way with no problem. Because I could not get it on all the way the second nut wasn’t able to catch any thread from the spindle. Have you ever had this trouble?

So to do both front wheels I will need 4 bearings? Also is this relatively the same on an 85 Toyota van? Seems like replacing the bottom bracket on a bicycle with a one piece crank.

While doing this job how easy is it to pull the cv out of the axle to clean off any grit and old oil?

Thank you for this video. Its very helpful. I have a quick question - My outer bearing failed while I was driving and it seems to have damaged the part that the bearings spin on - not the race but the spindle (i think thats what its called) its pretty badly scarred from this. Do I need to replace the whole steering knuckle/spindle? its on a 1991 toyota pickup. thanks

Very helpful, thanks!

Can the outer race be removed? I have a bearing packer that requires the race on so it can be packed with new grease

Very informative nice one

hie thanks for the nice video very informative, is this setup the same as the toyota 1995 Toyota Hilux Double Cab and some KZ models now have a clip so that the the hub wont come out, do you know which model of the 4x4 started having this

It looks like you’re ratcheting righty “tighty” on the brake line mount... is that correct? Because I am having a hell of a time with them. Won’t even budge.

Hi, nice video! How long did it take you to get the job done?

do you happen to know if this will be more or less the same for a 1993 4wd T100 pickup?

at 51 seconds in the video you remove the nuts from the flange, and the bushings, someone before me hammered the flange and the bushings are stuck. there appears to be two threaded holes for bolts, curious is can I use a puller to free the outter flange? I didn't try because of time constaints, because your video makes it seem like a 3 second job, and it turned into a 3 hour nightmare for me, then I noticed that the flange had hammer marks over each individual bolt. we got it off a kid (our 92 4runner) and the newer 4 runner has a completely different setup. I was looking forward to getting the wheel bearings done and removing the rotors as they have grooves and some serious pad wear. I couldn't make it past where you were at for the life of me past the 51 second mark, I could remove the bolts and washers but the bushings were on so Damn tight and the flange seems to have a gasket as well. also you called the flange a plate at the end of the video, no judgement on my part, the book calls it a flange and also shows removal as easy as you did it. I was ready to take a blow torch to the thing after I couldn't get it off...

good video

great video question tho i have a 98 4runner fronmt bearing failed me its the 4x4 same as the 2wd bearing in the front?

What size is the axle/spindle nut?

What way does the bearing go in ?

Does anyone knows what is the torque specs on the axle ring nut?

no it can happen at any speed , and i found that if i turn to the right it will stop for a bit ,

im getting a vibration on the front driver side it comes and goes and is bad when it's cold ,could that be the barrings ?

Job started yesterday on my 1994 SR5 Xcab 4wd V6 5sp and just got uglier as I went on. What is it with these calipers? I just replaced these pieces of shit (2) years ago. Inner pads appear not to be working properly (via the caliper pressure). Appears like brake material is stuck to the rotor and/or pitted the rotor surface versus the outer rotor surface which is shiny clean. Any input on this? I put extra hi-temp brake grease on the back of the pads and the corresponding slides. Thank goodness they're under limited lifetime warranty at AutoZone. Started the process of pulling things off. Got stuck at the hub removal process, trying to get the first nut off. Watched your video which showed there are (5) tabs present on the lock washer. Didn't see them all, i.e., with all the grease AND it started to get dark, so I gave up for the night and wound up putting everything back together. Gonna give it another shot after I go and pick up the new rotors. Like that song by Shalimar, "the second time around is better than the first time"! Wish me luck. Thanks for the video. It was extremely helpful for getting me over the hump. :)

Thanks!

There is a very specific amount of torque required to pre-load the wheel bearing and by just tapping it tight with a screw driver will not guarantee it was correct. Just a word of caution before you try to complete this job without the correct 54mm Axle Nut Socket and a torque wrench.

Is this an automatic 4 wheel drive front wheel? It doesn't look like it. I have a 2002 Tundra with automatic 4 wheel drive. I need to pack the front wheel bearings. Is the procedure the same? I had an automatic 4x4 and packed the bearings but the automatic made the job complicated and I had to change to manual. Do you know anything about this problem. Thx 4 the vid.

Is the dust cap the same as a grease cap?

Thank you!

Great video, much appreciated.

The washer that goes against the bearing wit the nub that sticks down the middle. My nub is worn so that washer can spin. Whats that going to cause?

Can I remove the wheel stud without doing all this work

where to get all those seals, do they come with new bearings?

Sweet

easy peasy.

Confused what direction that seal gets pushed in. Video goes fast after 8:06. Does anyone know ?

Молодец!

With all due respect , you are doing it wrong by hammering the 1st nut in .. A bearing is better loose than tight , its suppose to get finger tighten and not a screw driver and hammer tight . The 2nd nut could be hammered and then bend the lock washer over that ...