When Oil Filters Get Plugged, The Oil Gets Bypassed & Filtering Stops!! 

I'll have to look up what centrifuge the oil means. Interesting, thanks

How do I find out more on the centrifuge thing? How does it work?

Ive used atf in 350 chevy motors to shut up the lifters while it idles, about 2 to 4 ozs and change oil after 200 to 500 miles. Worked great!!!

Yea, I did that and my oil is turning dark brown real quick. The Marvel Mystery Oil is doing it’s job quite well and I’m changing the oil in my truck next week.

My dad used to run a quart of ATF through the carburetor about every other tune-up. Smoked up the whole neighborhood but that engine would probably/maybe still be running if I still had it. 😢🤓🍻 PS. It was a 1971 Ford Torino station wagon with a 351 Cleveland. Carbureted with point type ignition. Around 1985 when my dad donated it to the High School for shop class it would still bark tires in all 3 gears. We drove cross country CA-SC in it once and up and down the east coast FL-ME at least once yearly. I loved that car. 😢🤓🍻

I had a noisey lifter on a 1972 351 C @ 38K miles. I was told to Drizzle some in the carb and it quieted it down immediately.

Agreed!!!

me too

You read my mind about getting a taller filter. More filter area is always better as long it doesn't get in the way of anything else, or hang so low that a rock can hit it.

@@neutrodyne - That's all I used to buy when the filters were the smaller diameter type like the STP one Kenny had in the video. Cheers!

And there are many others

I would burn them in my woodstove.

Wish we could see it. Sounds fantastic .

I used to run a quart of deisel fuel through the motor without starting it to flush the pan and lifters.

I liked the FL8A, but I am biased, the 300 straight six is my all time favorite engine. 🤔🤓🍻

If you dont want to go to all the trouble of removing the oil pan, you can try this: BEFORE you pull the oil pan drain plug, blow compressed air BACKWARDS thru the oil filter adapter plate and it will dislodge some of whatever is blocking the oil pump pickup screen. When you pull the drain plug, it'll flush out that accumulated sludge with the old oil.

Yeah, not sure what Kenny is on about, every other video on oil filters says that a plugged up filter opens the little valve in the bottom of the filter, nothing about the spring moving. They say the spring is to keep the anti drain back valve closed when the engine is off.

Easy mistake to make when you are looking at the design. Just shows that Kenny isn't watching other peoples videos and trying to pass the info on like he already knew it (like a lot of RU-vidrs). That's why I like the guy. Passing on his knowledge and keeping it real. For others reading this post, here a link to a manufacturers video on it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-C8ExRwwfgO0.html

@@craigstubbs1991 Also if you look carefully the second blue one he opened does not have a bypass valve, just a weak spot in the plastic moulding that will break to allow bypass.

One thing that I like to do is to take a section of maybe 1/4 the media, put it is a rag and squeeze it in my vice to get most of the oil out. This will give a better view of what the filter has caught.

Snake oil. Lol

It'll clean that motor out though. I know if mechanics that'll run it before rebuilding an engine to clean it up and there will be almost no sludge left in there.

Hey that thing can also open a can of beans .

What are your thoughts on reusable filters ?

The oil goes in the center when the filter gets restricted it forces the spring down then bypasses the filter media.

I always thought Lucas Oil Treatment would make for a good assembly lube. 😂

And they expect you to pay for what they didn't do. I caught a crooked tire chain shop here in the Phoenix, Arizona area called Fletcher's Cobra Tire doing that, in the 1990's. I had a friend who had caught them doing that and told me about it, so I used a sharpie to make my marks on the old filter, then after it was done, I popped the hood, and there were my marks. The Mgr and I had a tense conversation where he claimed the "technician" got confused because he was doing two cars at once and forgot to change my filter. They took it back in and put the new filter on, but I didn't think to make them drop the oil out because once it got started with the old filter still on, the new oil (provided they even had changed the oil, which I now doubt), would then be contaminated with old. So I started going to another location of the same chain, and caught them not lubing my zerk fittings. The Mgr said they dont really need grease every time. Really? Who the fk should be deciding if they need grease that I have paid for? After that, I called their VP of Operations and demanded the $70 fee back that I had paid for their "lifetime" oil change (cost $2 every time for oil disposal fee), and I told him I was going to report his chain to the state attorney general, and he blew his gasket. From then on, I started doing all my own oil changes. That crooked chain was bought out by Firestone. When I do my oil changes, I know there is a new filter and oil of my choice in the vehicle. You can never be sure if you have a shop do it unless you are certain it is an honest shop, and then you'll still wonder.

I still change the filter again between oil changes and add a quart of fresh oil. It can't hurt and is much cheaper and less work than replacing an engine or vehicle. 🤔🤓🍻

I remember when Mobil 1 first came out with synthetic oil. The said to change the filter every 3000 miles, top off the oil and do a complete oil change at 25000 miles.

In years past , I've taken Fram filters apart to find they were absolute junk . Maybe they're better nowadays ?

Depends on the model. Their low end, I wouldn't touch. Their high end synthetic is one of the best.

@@WrenchingWithKenny Depends where they are made, and you also will find your filters are made by a few factories around the world, just the paint used and the metal thickness varies according to the order.

@@SinCitySinner Yeah, that wasn't limited to only Fram. I remember Purolator pure ones had that problem with the paint when they sprayed that yellow textured paint on the cans. Sometimes it over sprayed into the can. So, it's definitely a good idea to check any filter for defects.

Always been a Valvoline guy so good to see this; t/y.

I think Project Farm did a video like that, but I can’t find it on my phone.

The "perfect" grade of filter media will just start to plug up before you change it. That will have removed the most and finest impurities. One that hasn't plugged could have caught finer material and one that has been plugged has quit filtering before your oil change. Its a fine line and I'd rather be on the side of "it's just about ready to plug".

I do the oil changes myself, but a few times I went to a shop and always have to kind of argue with the mechanic to use the filter I give him, NOT the factory recommended!

Do a quick RU-vid search. There are approximately 286286 videos of cutting apart oil filters. :)

Fram has different grade filters. At least one version had a cardboard disc that would break down over time and the pieces would block the oil passage. You was never sure which version had it so people said to avoid all of them.

Or just the filter and compare the first second and so on using the same oil until the oil is due then compare them all.

@@garysgarage.2841 Maybe. I was just thinking that the goal is to clean the engine and fresh oil would do a better job.

I have the Ford 4.0 and wanted to put on the larger filter but nooooooooo. This engine has metric threads for the filter. Idiots.

The oil pump bypass is only there as a regulator to control pressure. It will.bypass when pressure exceeds a predetermined limit. Keep wrenching

@@WrenchingWithKenny Thanks Kenny

I always put a light film of oil on the gasket, to make sure it won't bind on tightening.