White Industries Square Taper Bottom Bracket and 1x fitting and thoughts. 

Hi, I don’t have that frame anymore, it was a lovely frame and I regret selling it. Well I regret selling every single bike I have ever owned!!!! But that would mean I would need a space for about 150 which I don’t have. I am building up a Brothers Cycles Mr Wooden with downtube friction shifters at the moment. That will have a Velo Orange 28/46 crank and a 11-36 cassette, I think that will work really sweet. As regards to the set up on the Black Mountain. It could handle big/big without any issues and small/small did not cause the chain to sag. But I did find that the chain did drop a couple of times when moving on to the small chainring as the rear mech would quick take up the slack. The only reason I kept the 46t cassette on was because that is what I had when I was using one friction shifter to use it as a 1x11. I can’t honestly remember the chainring sizes on the 2x setup I think it was something like 28/44.

@@RidingBicycles Thanks, good stuff. I went and googled the Velo Orange to see how a granny 28 can go with a 44, and recognised it from a Path Less Pedaled video I've yet to fully watch. I've been side tracked into researching 2x options, for MTB crossover into skinny tyred riding and also MTB 'bikepacking' touring. It was cool seeing your field review of the White cranks, out on dirt, and it's very affirming to have you tell that you're choosing a 28/44 chainset. That's the synchronicity I'm famous for! I'm writing a lot about 2x 'MTB' cranksets with a 14t step. The 22/36 was (is?) a favourite combo for many like myself, but 10t step became some kind of new standard spec. But Shimano have now adopted 14t step in their new Cues line-up so it can bridge from MTB to what they call 'trekking' and 'urban' bikes. So the 14t step front mechs are the missing link for finding solutions for new builds of rigs with boost spaced rear ends and wide chainlines. The 14t step on granny/big 2x BCD cranksets gives the options to pair with grannies 22, 24, 26 and 28. So I've been saying how 28/42 is surely something that has demand from 'gravel' type riders and loaded tourers. And here you are! Bravo. I'm keen to see some video of 12 speed rear ends being combined and working with 11/10 speed front 2x sets. That gives guys like you, cranking the big gears on skinny tyres, that 10 at the rear. But a 12 speed build to try something largely untested is a big deal, and not necessary with your 28/44 range. It will be good to see those 16t step downshifts tested and what rear mech and 11-36 cassette you use. Road or mountain and length of cage on the rear mech. Like you say in this video, friction shifting is the key to opening up possibilities with the elimination of index pull ratio incompatibilities, so road and MTB groups can be mixed. (Like 12 speed Microshift thumbies on the wishlist.) So that's back to what I really liked about this vid, and a good place to say good luck and best wishes with the new build and all. Thanks again. Das Steel.

Always a delicate topic. I try to be a very good boy for a few days before I have the conversation.

I was just looking at them the other day and deciding on a frame. They are really nice. You may like this website for good products and advice. analogcycles.com

If that is the case it is a easy fix as they are identical besides the logo 👍🏽

Hi yes. Spindle length will effect chainline. When you get a crank normally they suggest a spindle length. But as well as the chainline you also need to make sure the crank arms clear the chain stays. I would contact Surly to see what spindle length they suggest. They will have done loads. I bet you would find the answer with a good internet search. Other good options for your crank are: velo-orange.com www.diacompe.com.tw I have a 91 Rockhopper still running the original square taper BB and it is rock solid. For your shifter checkout Microshift. www.microshift.com They have flat bar thumbies and dropbar barend shifters that can be run indexed or with the flick of a switch they can be friction. I am putting them on my next Black Mountain La Cabra build. Frame should be arriving soon :)

@@RidingBicycles thanks for the response! I just got finished installing a 113mm White Industries square taper bottom bracket. For someone who's never done that before your video and tips are very helpful. Those mircroshift thumbies look great, but pretty hard to find right now in Germany, I'll keep searching. Looking forward to your La Cabra build! Cheers

Yes looking forward to the frame arriving soon!

What frame did you put the cranks on?

I installed the bottom bracket and cranks onto a Surly Cross Check. Maybe not the most unique frame, but should hold up to some abuse.

This shop has lots of robust and strong products specially made for commuting and touring. You could go simple Shimano Square Taper BB and get suitable cranks to suit. If you are unsure about products that work together well then give these guys a call and they will help you out. www.sjscycles.co.uk

Square taper bottom brackets are extremely sealed and will last many years. They are better than the modern standards

@@RidingBicycles Thanks

Shimano square taper BB’s are famously durable, some models have additional seals on the cups. As far as I can tell, White Industries uses conventional bearings without any special sealing besides what the bearing manufacturer uses. Not necessarily a problem, there’s big bucks in bearings and reputable companies have spent lots of money designing seals that hold up. Enduro also sells “LLU” bearings, which has a double lip seal instead of the usual single lip or non-contact. I ride all year long and “modern” external BB’s don’t hold up well for me. TLDR: get a Shimano UN-300 if you just want something bulletproof and don’t care about bling.

I am skiing at the moment. But I think they are just some simple dia compe long drop. I will check when I get home in a few days. 👍🏽

I think White Industries has been real world tested for many many years they have a rock solid reputation 👍🏽