"WHY 24 VOLT?" Victron Energy MultiPlus-II 2X 120V, 3000VA 24-Volt pure sign wave inverter! 

Really appreciate the kudos 🙏🏻

You’re supposed to fuse at 1.25 x max load. Which should be 157 amps. I probably wasn’t wearing my glasses and thought the 5 was an 8 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️. I’m surprised i didn’t catch that.

@@saltytripsGot it. Now I'm tracking. Thanks for the clarification! Very nice setup you have there. I've been using Ampere Time / Li Time batteries for a while myself and have had no problems with them.

@@LakeSailor321 heres a link to a playlist of our upgrade and up dates to the system. ru-vid.com/group/PLXL0DAEhCeew8ymmeXnQZbforpQDwK_e3&si=9HaBmbeWJT7RcbAC

@@Jayda08 and less mppt controllers

Here’s links HDMI extension- amzn.to/3rtyZf7 USB extension- amzn.to/458IjmD Thanks for the kudos, let me know if you have any more questions 👍

… kept the 12v system separate for now, I have plants for a separate 12v lithium, I would just run an Orion 24v to 12v but I don’t think it has enough amps for my jacks at full load.

@@strobi0001 they don’t make a 48v 2x120

That's an issue. I have 48V 230.

All 50amp RV’s have two hot legs split phase. They almost never have any 240v appliances.

@@saltytrips I was like holy cow Victron is finally making a 240 volt North American U.S.A. inverter!!!! Then I looked up the schematic and my excitement died lol. Happy and sad all within 2 minutes. I get what you did now by looking at the electrical internals. Cool project and thanks for the quick response. Cheers

… funny you should ask that, i just partnered up with Li Time and the sent me a second 24v 200ah battery. I’ll be doing an install video soon. Its like a 1/2 inch shy of fitting with the 12v AGM batteries in there. Im going to be removing them and installing two Orion 24/12 70 in parallel to run all 12v systems. Im sure the Montana has a bit more room than the Cougar.

The Orion will be about the same price as the additional batteries for 12v. Good choice and excellent video!

Email any offers to saltytripsrv@gmail.com

I saw the 24/12 converter as an asset, allowed me to gain 120lbs of payload back ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EV0HWocQqRE.htmlsi=3ROKFUhco5am-QYB

No, they are two separate systems.

I’m assuming your talking about the 120v to 12v converter to run the 12v accessories and charger the 12v battery. I have plans to get rid of the 12v batter all together and run 2 parallel Orion 24/12-70 to run the 12v systems off the 24v battery.

Still have the stock 12v system and battery in place, next upgrade I will be adding another 24v batter and get rid of the 12v batter to be replaced with two Orion 24/12-70 in parallel, stay tuned.

Yes, it can add up but we wouldn’t be without it, we’ve expanded since this video, theres a playlist on our channel page if you care to follow the progress

Sorry I see you have another video with 24-12v.

@@randyclarkson4808 just about to send the link 👍

You want to keep the shunt as close to the battery as possible, sounds like you already have it planned out. When you make your run to the 12v block make sure you’re using appropriate wire size. 👍

Thanks! One more quick question. I purchased the same exact battery you used and was hoping to get all the settings for the multiplus when you connected it to your Mac. Any way to get the rest of the settings? I saw that you set it for 40 amps but that was all you showed in the video. I haven’t looked through all the comments yet but if you could post all the settings that would be awesome!!!

@@richpetrelli2783 bulk/absorption voltage as 28.8±0.4V. The float voltage should be 27.6V Recommended charge rate 40a

1 battery - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BLCZoHLC578.htmlsi=nuZ2NsJ36-nlXSV2

2 batteries- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-66CeQvapzqE.htmlsi=CgMC_2et0_r2UyqU

Right on! We have much more to do!

… glad i could help, we have a playlist for all the victron power mods on our main channel page 👍

Thanks , more to come

🙏🏻🙏🏻

Thanks for the input 👍

The RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry Association) requires that all manufacturers displaying the RVIA tag comply with NFPA 1192, which is basically electrical code for RVs.(Individuals aren’t RVIA) And because state and local jurisdictions don’t have a specific code countermanding RV electrical code, then the NFPA Code supersedes anything you may find in NFPA 70 or even a local AHJ. That is, a local Authority Having Jurisdiction can’t make you rewire the internal wiring of your RV as long as it was built to comply with NFPA 1192 in its year of manufacture.

That part was actually pretty easy. Glad you enjoyed it, we’ve made several upgrades and improvements since this video, theres a playlist on our channel page to follow the build 👍

… which code would that be? NEC doesn’t apply to RV’s and NFPA 70 doesn’t having any legal standing with RV’s. It’s probably a good idea to put it in a junction box but there’s no legal code requiring it. 12v charging and getting rid of the 12v battery all together it next on the list, then another 24v battery, then solar.

@saltytrips there actually are some code sections in NEC 70 that talk about mobile trailers, but there is also the RVIA code/standards. I'll check sections of NEC 70 later today.

@@leewhizhulbert9276 from my understanding they are basically guidelines, and carry no legal obligations for RV’s, could be wrong though. There’s also the NFPA 1194 standard but I believe it only applies to manufactures and camp grounds.

Great install. I put a lot into my solar batteries and inverter system. I did all 24 volt. It's 3200 watts solar and 4000 split phase low frequency sungold inverter and 3000 watt powmr inverter. 4 charge controllers 3 victron and 1 powmr. 2 ac chargers and one DC to DC victron charger. I'm a little over 21 kw of lifepo4 and 14 kw of Nissan leaf batteries at the moment lol. I'd love to have the courage to make videos like you have. Thanks to people like you making the videos I learned enough to build a system over the last couple years that will hopefully keep us from a monthly electric bill and continue to give us this freedom from the grid that we are enjoying so much. I put a 9000 BTU 38 seer mini split on our camper and it's by far the best decision as far as cooling and heating our holiday rambler. Thanks for making the videos and great job

That fuse might be a little small when the batteries are low if you are pulling a hard load . If the fuse is just there to protect the wire the largest fuse possible without being dangerous will create a less of a pinch point and make less of a drop in voltage during a surge. 200 amp fuse might work but it's most definitely a little small. Great video tho for sure

@@jamesmason7124 wrong on both

… glad to help 👍, much more to come!

Yes they all ground to frame, its has no negative effect, no pun intended 😁 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EV0HWocQqRE.htmlsi=IcxQxQfjrDs6YCEO

@@sv-cuda That’s odd, where in this video did I ever mention KWH?

@@lliaolsen728 a lot of companies do make them but the fact that Victron doesn’t is the best part because its expandable. You not stuck with what you started with, check out the rest of the victron build, we’ve gotten a lot bigger. ru-vid.com/group/PLXL0DAEhCeew8ymmeXnQZbforpQDwK_e3&si=H6ajkJDFtkSqiM9U

Not with a serious amount of electrical tape applied. They’re not going anywhere. May eventually install an inline EMS.

The rule of thumb is you should fuse at about 125% of max load. So if running at 100% max, if it was fused at 100% load then over time heat may make it blow on accident.

👍

Why would she? She didn’t install anything, internet is full of some real strange ones 🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️.

Glad it was helpful, definitely would need more battery to run two inverters.

Less Amps, less heat, less wire, less batteries…. Eventually we will have four of these batteries as I upgrade to solar. 4 of these batteries is much easier and take up less space and weigh less than 16 12v. Even two of these batteries are way better than having 8 separate 12v. Not even close.

@@saltytrips and if you're still running 12v appliances, there's going to be a 5-10%+ efficiency loss, so you're losing capacity there. and then 24v appliances are going to be another expense, and tend to be more $, on average, than common 12v versions of the same things. it seems like a huge expense to change an existing system (something you say people want to do) to simply run smaller wires, where you already have wires that work perfectly well. what are the actual benefits? because replacing a whole electrical system just for smaller wires, with 10% conversion power loss to get back down to 12V to run lights etc.. just doesn't seem like a daily bonus. is it just that you like the system? that's fine.. but there's a difference between that and "you should spend $$$ because it's better because..." maybe I just misunderstood the point of the video. glad you like the new setup. :-)

@@CrudelyMade we didn’t get a 24v system to run 12v power, it’s for 110v inverter. I feel like you missed the whole video. I never said you have to change your system or that you should change your system. I just said this is what we did and why, I have no idea why you think it’s a personal attack on your 12v system. Our fridge is 110v or AC’s are 110v and all the outlets are 110v, which I explained and the only things 12v are a few lights and the jacks. It’s working more than fantastic for us. You do you buddy 👍, thanks for watching!

​​@@saltytripsGreat Job!!!!! I have the 24v multi plus older version..... It has a 4 amp trickle charge for starting battery you can feed your lithium or gel with it and forget about the 24-12v idea.... Not sure if multi 2 has this feature? I would suggest that every time you turn on system if sitting along time with the power disconnect that you use a 10-25 watt resistor to keep inrush to your inverter from arching and putting a load on input capacitors.... Some batteries have that feature but I didn't see that on the Li... All the reason to go 24 vs 12v are good easier to install thinner wires less current... And much more efficient to step up from 24v to 120v plus better match for solar panels if using 300-400 watts solar panel vs 200w 12v panels.... People don't understand until they get serious and do research on how and why to do things and then they have new opinions... Another cool thing you can do is in the future use 48v server rack as prices fall to feed charge controller at nite to act as a solar panel works great... That way you can have battery in different location to balance weight and run larger 24v cable to offset losses.... That way no need to upgrade system as 48v becomes the new standard..... Tesla just announced that they are scraping the 12v and going 48 due to more efficient. I think they filed patent to set standard.... So you did the right thing.... By the way there is a hack to turn off your buss bar LEDs on RU-vid

@@michaeld4502 … I’ll definitely have to look into that 12v battery charging 🤔, great input 👍

.. thanks 👊💥, good luck with your caravan project 👍

Glad to help, we have a playlist on our channel page of all our victron upgrades 👍

Which video?

🤣👏👏👏

We have much more up grades in our playlist on our channel page 👍

Ugh rough day, thats RV life sometimes, I replied to your other comment but i’ll leave the setting here too. We recommend you set the bulk/absorption voltage as 28.8±0.4V. The float voltage should be 27.6V

Hey Chris. I bought the same crimper you have but it’s weird. If I use the 2/0 die set in the tool with a 2/0 cable and 2/0 lug, I can still pull the cable out of the lug pretty easily after crimping to the max. No matter how hard I crimp it ( the die bottoms out against the other die and never really finishes the crimp) and I can still pull the cable out! If I use the 1/0 die set with the 2/0 cable and 2/0 lug, I can crimp it perfectly. Do you have the same issue with your crimper? It’s almost like the 2/0 die set is just a little too big for 2/0 lugs and doesn’t crimp them completely.

@@richpetrelli2783 I’ve noticed quite a few people have had the same issue with several crimpers. If it’s not snug enough I do the same thing and go down one size too. Seems to be an issue for a lot of people.

Here are all the settings from Li Time support for 1 the 24v 230ah battery: Absorption Voltage: 28.8V Float Voltage: 27.6V Equalization Voltage: 28V Re-Bulk Voltage offset:0.10V Absorption Duration: (Adaptive/Fixed) Adaptive Maximum Absorption Time: 8h Tail Current: 4.6A（0.02*capacity） Equalization Current Percentage:10% Automatic Equalization: (Disabled / Equalize every ____ Days) Disabled Equalization stop mode: (Fixed Time / Automatic on Voltage) Fixed Time Maximum Equalization Duration:4h Temperature Compensation (mV/°C):-16.2 Low-Temperature Cutoff (optional): Disabled

Chris, where did you put the chassis ground cable? On the lynx shunt negative or on the lynx distributor neg terminal?