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"In case you can't spell", I spit out some of my drink from laughing when you said that. I wish more people would follow your example by 1, saying what they actually feel in their content, and 2, not letting bullsh** slide by with any merit when evidence and facts clearly says otherwise. Keep up the genuine content! 🔈🔈
I love installing my tweeters in the sail panel, they really enhance the front stage. sometimes you have to attenuate them so that they would be a little easy on the ear .cool video.
This is also if people are only using the dsp rather the s your saying really thing how the speakers are working where they Re pointing and what sounds re going where it's easy with t/a and so on but I personally prefer good placement and speakers swell as subs with well built boxes and then well tuned amps calibration of the xovers And distortion free using dd1 & cc1 and making sure the amps are the right amps for the job at hand to for instance you don't need 20kw of amp power if you never turn you stereo up till you get your eyes to actually float freely in you head lights ve the tech Tuesday stuff emf address some of the myths and so-called rules that so many swear by some are real and some are just propaganda to sell more gear
I’m really happy you brought this topic up. I would like to add and ask your opinion. I had a Mercedes clk430, it had speakers in the back of the front doors. I assume as a three way set up? Can you think of why? Pros and cons?
You didn't mention that the reason people use the kick panel location is that it actually equalizes path lengths making the imaging better along with the soundstage...
@@EMFAudio But it makes it the most equal you can get sitting on one side of the car or the other... the path length from the doors can be as much as 15 inches different from each other or more... putting the speakers in the kick panels reduces that to a 5-9 inch difference... I've been doing autosound since the late 80's and have followed Richard Clark (I still have the Autosound 2000 briefs)....have a read: www.google.com/search?q=equlizing+path+length%2C+kick+panels&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS784US784&oq=equlizing+path+length%2C+kick+panels&aqs=chrome..69i57.18339j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
@@EMFAudio From QForms' website: "The original reason that competitors migrated to kick panel locations was to make their audio system sound less like a car audio system and more like a home audio system. The way to do this was to improve the stereo imaging by minimizing the localization and “side bias*” that traditional door and dash mounting locations succumbed to - remember, this was LONG before the advent of digital audio processors! This is commonly referred to as equalizing the path-length or more properly, path length equalization. As the kick panel areas offer the minimum difference in distance between the left and right speakers in the front of any vehicle, they were chosen."
How does the center channel work on Left or Right channel? And on amp or head unit? I would assume for driver it would be right ch. 🤷 I'm just not sure
Center channels are always a product of a processor being involved. That processor will blend left and right channels into a mono channel for the center with the exception of content that has a dedicated center (which isn't nearly all music). So, it's neither left nor right, but both.
Appreciate your informative content. I know this is an older video, but I have a relatable question. I have an infiniti with a rear deck infinite baffle shallow mount 10" Bose sub. System sounds ok for stock, but I am very interested in replacing the sub with something more substantial without sacrificing trunk space. I understand that there are restrictions to the type of bass with this kind of system, but how do you feel about the Earthquake SWS shallow mount as a replacement? It's excursion seems much better than others I have researched. Do you sell them?
I have no experience or real knowledge of that sub. But, for infinite baffle applications (especially factory replacement) it's important to have an appropriate power handling, 150-300 watts most likely, and the correct impedance for the factory amp. It should also have a Qts around 0.6-0.8. I definitely wouldn't base a decision on Xmax, ESPECIALLY with how Earthquake lies really hard about their Xmax numbers. They have a habit of claiming Xmax as mechanical peak to peak both directions instead of linear one way.
@@EMFAudio oh man, that's def good to know. Thanks for getting back to me with the advice, man. I look forward to learning more from your future videos! 👍
I put a component set in an 04 tahoe but it feels like I'm missing something in the sound like between my head and lap region would adding a tweeter to the sail panel help or what route would you take?
you should do a video on spl basics, like just spl with no sq at all. although then maybe you'd be giving away your secret formulas to getting loud lol
I feel like what I consider very basic some people might just not know and I take it for granted because I knew it 20 years ago. I definitely wouldn't want to give too much away.
@@EMFAudio But you should give away so much so to stand out among all RU-vid channels! I personally enjoy your videos so much, but at the end of every video I feel like "nah, that's not enough info"...
@@EMFAudio Fair enough! Appreciated, But remember that here you got a fanbase of people wanting to know what they can't find anywhere else on the net! Just sayin'
That's a horn, and there are advantages and disadvantages to doing that. I've never used mine in that application but the speakers aren't designed for a PA application either. Those won't be playing below 45 hz for sure, so I don't consider that to be "great quality" as it can't reproduce a truly usable bandwidth.
@@EMFAudio that's true. Thanks for your info about this. Although the speakers I've used (rcf and 18 sounds) performed well in those boxes. But not for lower frequencies. But I guess it is suitable for out application here in Trinidad.
Sean I got a bunch of cheap 6.5's and 6×9's laying around and I'm going to build a -relatively- decent system for this small-sized sedan I got. In order to not push those cheap drivers into non-linearity, I thought it would be best to spread the desired power among as many drivers as possible. So I decided to put one 6.5" in each door and two pairs of 6×9 ovals back in the deck, all playing below 200Hz and mono (the cutoff is adjustable). This setup'll give me a nice 4-ohm load to my stereo amp, while keeping it easy for drivers. I'm afraid, though, that too many sound sources'll mess up the soundstage, or cause weird effects. Should I go this route?
Only having front and rear it won't be as bad as it could be, but the rear will definitely be way louder than it should be, much louder than the front unless you cut power to them by fading, defeating the purpose all together. Being mono you'll have zero left and right separation so it will just be sound, basically. No definition. Splitting the tweeters will sound odd, especially when you're forcing all those other speakers to play below where they want to. Your usable bandwidth will only be like 100-200 hz with those.
@@EMFAudio I'll use mids and tweeters as well, and they'll be in proper positions (consulted with you before on that). Mids are basically OEM speakers playing 200-2KHz, passively crossed. Tweeters'll play 2K up. This setup'll leave only about 3.5 octaves for OEM speakers which I think will do just fine and effortlessly. Woofers'll be there only to do 40Hz-200Hz, actively crossed. I can also put a response gap in the 150-200Hz range, in order to compensate for midbass boominess. How about that? I think it's as much SQ as I can get from these cheap parts... Only cost'll be glues and crossover caps.
How would you determine if off axis performance is better then on axis? Also how could i add a center channel speaker and not have it take away from the rest of my system?
The manufacturer would typically supply the information with response graphs. The graph will have multiple degrees from on axis, 15°, 30°, ect. Parts express is a good source if you want to see a tweeter detailed info.
Rarely would off axis ever sound better than on axis. Usually if that's the case it's because it's harsh and a frequency response graph may not show that. For an effective center channel it's best to have independent control over it for volume and crossover. You'd want summed channels so taking the fronts and and adding a mono channel from that would be the center. Or you could just do it through a processor and more easily adjust all of that.
A few questions: 1- What about rear channel tweeter positioning? I think top corner of the rear doors is an ideal and tempting position as for the front passengers, high frequencies will be blocked efficiently, making an effective classic 2-channel stereo for both rear and front passengers. However I've also placed tweeters on the rear panel before and I'm quite happy with the soundstage. 2- About deck woofers, knowing the deck is ideally an infinite baffle, one must achieve significant improvements by blocking the airways between the cabin and the trunk. I did so and, although I did achieve some audible improvements (and a tiny improvement in bass extension) no big changes were observed. What's that I'm missing here? 3- Why do cars lose so much bass while in speed? In my Peugeot when on the road, I would turn up the bass to the point that I feel my seat being rattled with bass, and still no bass I can hear! Is it because of the low frequency noise coming in from the roof and the floor? If that's the case then why can't I hear the noise itself?
1) I wouldn't use a tweeter for rear fill, it would pull the stage backwards. If you're trying to optimize for rear passengers I'd do it on the door panel aimed at the listener. I definitely wouldn't do it at ear level because of the effects on the front. 2) You aren't missing anything, infinite baffle gets the majority of benefits from wave isolation. Once you've done that, you're maxed out on potential. 3) There are a number of possibilities, I suspect your road noise is around the same frequencies as your bass range and it's causing phasing cancellation. Not hearing it for myself makes that a lot of speculation and no easy way to define.
@@EMFAudio Thanks for response sir. I definitely agree with you on no.1. As for no.3 I've seen this phenomenon happening in cheaply built vehicles with poor sound deadening. I've measured the low-frequency noise while the vehicle was driving, and it was a pretty high level of noise especially down below 100Hz. I still wonder, however, why my ears can't pick the noise up. Whether it's a processing done in brain is something to be proven.
@@alimahdavi2276 It's working as noise cancelling, how you don't want it to. The road noise is 180 degrees (or close) out of phase so it's reducing the amplitude of those frequencies. Luxury cars have microphones in the cars and processors listening to the noise to push out of phase signals that match them to reduce road noise via the stereo. That's a way to make the car quieter without adding weight of deadener.
@@EMFAudio well I can typically cut you a check on the low fam lol no warranty no refund no nothing. I understand. But brooo. That's probably the best looking sub in the world. I need that lol
If I have a bad popping in the sub amp when I kill the radio (due to a bad rca run I think), if I turn the amp knob to zero first, it won't do it. But I had two brand new Soundqubed HDX3 12's sitting in the trunk free air playing 20Hz on a loop at very low volume. 10 on the radio (which goes to 40 I think), 45% on the amp knob and they were just wiggling a little getting ready for the box that's being built. Well, I forgot and it popped loud. I instantly smelled the burning smell. I'm panicking so hard that I can't hardly think straight. I turned them on and they seem fine but after an hour, the smell is only about half gone. Did I damage them or is it impossible to know? Lastly, the amp is an XTR2500.1 that has the actual gain at about 55%, the crossover at 80Hz and everything else is at zero.
The issue is the radio is turning off before the amp. Many amps have a soft turn off but that one may not. Most HU's will also keep the remote wire active while the rest turns off for an extra second so that doesn't happen as well. If you have something like an EQ or processor inline, THAT could be turning off before the amp, causing the issue. As far as the damage goes, that would take more investigating but it is possible they're damaged. Check coil impedance on every coil and do a visual inspection of possible.
@@EMFAudio Something I just realized. I forgot that these were a different OHM load than my 10's and just noticed that I had four 1 OHM coils going straight to the mono. I'm guessing that I was running at a quarter OHM. SMH. Anyhow, I see no visible damage, the smell is 100% gone now, and I let all four coils settle on the meter for about 5 seconds and all four settled at 1.2 OHM. They're dual 1 OHM Voice Coils. What are your thoughts?
It's a unique example. I can't think of another car done that way. McLaren doesn't use that method anymore either. It's a great way to do it while keeping legroom though, if you're doing custom panels.
@@EMFAudio just giving ya shit, I've not seen 2 drivers installed that way before so it was a good example. I'm sure it sounds great also, so it could be a good idea for custom installations. Dig the channel and the information.
