As you were reviewing them, I found myself thinking "I wish he would print something on all of them so I can SEE the difference." Then you read my mind and did it. Great review and presentation!
Yes, i just got the ender 3 as my 4th 3d printer for by business and its great highly recommended, a fun build better then all my previous full kits that took hours and had crappy instructions
pretty much this. at one point I was about to go full hulk on my anet a8 and turn it into fine powder because I was stuck at one problem for a week (z motor stuck mid print at the exact same height every time) and when I finally solved it (wrong max z setting in the firmware) it felt like a climax
I've never left a comment or subscribed to channel on RU-vid in over a decade using it. But you sir did an amazing job and deserve the credit. Blew me away with how much information you packed into a short video, while being super funny. Great job man.
Hi, I have an anet a8 and what i love is that it can do everything maybe not perfectly but for almost nothing, also you can tune everything. Nice video by the way, from France :D
please make an update video on the Tevo tarantula. I bought it in March and it's put together but I'm not getting great prints. I've looked in the Facebook page and it's good but I would prefer if you would make a video on your favourite upgrades for the Tarantula and what settings you have for marlin. Love your videos keep up the good work!
I have the tarantula and it prints just great. My upgrade part list: 1. Fanduct 2. improved z-axis mount 3. x- and y-belt tensioner 4. olham coupler The Marlin firmware I took from the facebook group. Now my prints look amazing!
hey Callum Jackson, try to post your question/concern into the facebook group, thats how i recently fixed my printer. Someone reached out to me in less than 1 hour and helped me for the past 2 days and now my printer is fixed. I also had a very unique issue as well, the people that help are very familiar with printer.
Great Video! Clear spoken, informative, funny and to the point! I've been thinking of getting a 3D printer, and your video is the first one I watch! So pleased! CR-10 sounds Perfect! Thank you for this! :)
@@owenwalters1 We love all our creality machines.. Built a 150k per year business with them at the forefront.. Along with Prusa, Artillery, Sovol and Ultimaker.
An amazing presentation with a wide range of printers with important detail and carefully thought out opinions. I’m going for the Creality CR-10 Pro as I trust your judgement. Thanks for sharing this 👍🙏
Your videos are the gold standard for information and production quality! Finally able to get relevant information without a lot of nonsense. Well done!
I thought it was quit informative and my questions is why do people just unlike vidoes that they have not even checked ? Its silly I tell you. This guys did well.
I sincerely enjoyed the fast pace of this video. You could've easily made a 20-30 minute video on this topic, but you kept it to the point and factual. Well done 👍🏻
I want all of them. For now I have a Tronxy X3 and XYZ Davinci Jr both ultra modified. Thanks for the reply! Also I'm in the UK and anyone else who is should go vote tomorrow!
I want to thank you so much for making this awesome video comparison of all your 3D printers. You obviously have a passion for design and engineering so I subbed and look forward to learning more about 3d printing and additive manufacturing.
"Best 3D printer from my perspective is the one majority of my viewers can benefit from" - thank you for this. Many ppl review fancy expensive stuff without realizing that most ppl can't afford them.
Upgraded to a Cr-10s after having worked with a ANET A6 for about 8 months. Its an amazing step in quality! Although starting out with an ANET I’ll never regret! Best chance to learn how a printer works from top to bottom.
I had a beta Tiko for years. It was a unicorn as it worked great, and everyone else seemed to have issues with theirs and many claim to have never got a clean print from theirs. I still have some of the prints from it and a bit of the blue Tiko filament I wouldn't dare try running through a printer as it's so brittle. The extruder finally died on it, and it was a sad day. Back when I use to fund 3d printer Kickstarters. Never did receive many of them.
I have an Anet A8 printer right now and just ordered a CR-10. I am extremely excited to see so many people love the CR-10. Even after a few years the CR-10 is still one of the best options after the years. Love your videos, keep on creating! :)
@@andrewdickenson6935 Yes, i just got the ender 3 as my 4th 3d printer for by business and its great highly recommended, a fun build better then all my previous full kits that took hours and had crappy instructions
Setup was super easy. Both myself and my son were able to print directly from our phones within minutes. Printing is a little slow but acceptable. Nice printer for light usage.
The Tarantula printed backwards and you didn't mention it. You didn't list the times for each printer - should have tested again after the filament mess up and the size mess up ect. Also if you slow any printer down you tend to get better prints - so The delta finishing before the CR-10 and the CR-10 having better results are meaningless what happens when you slow the delta down to match the print time of the CR-10? This comparison only told us that: Mankati e180 for5 ease of use Anet A8 is a first printer for true 'makers' willing to design print upgrades - at the best price Tarantula will print the opposite of what ever you wanted in the first place The Rework should have been made larger The TevoDelta will save you time and thus money and will pay for itself before all the other The CR-10 is a good printer (but may be very slow, who knows? we don't!) I have an Anet A8 - I will always be fond of it - it was my first time :) I want to build a Delta - I may actually upgrade the A8 to a delta IF I were rich I would buy a Mankati e180 - if for nothing more than ABS ! 5/10 for the collection review (-3 out of envy, -2 for cocking up the test) +10 for the electrocution effects :)
Am I the only one that wanted the resolution of each printer? Are they all the same? Do most viewers already know the resolutions for each one? (Resolution might not be the right word for 3d printers but you know what I mean. Smallest addressable point.)
Thanks, Jason. Do you think that means they are all the same? Or that he set them all the same for the test? Price, size, speed and quality are the things I'd like to know. (And anyone else that watched thinking of purchasing.) Highest resolution would be part of quality.
Thank you so very much for all your effort in reviewing these 3D printers , I'm now sold on the Creality CR-10 so I'll be buying the unit that is capable of 500x500x500 .
heads up the tarantula is cheaper than the anet a8 for me atleast living in europe (sweden) cause gearbest take around 60$ for shipping while the tarantula has free shiping i saved around 30$
i dont know ur tax rates in denmark but i had to pay 550 sek in import tax living in sweden. I would not order from gearbest however as they are really unreliable but from aliexpress i got it cheaper and with free express shiping. Really happy with the printer but took a while to get it running well
The tarantula company support sucks. I received a DOA motherboard from them. Took me 2 months of going back and forth with them before they would send me a replacement.
hi i have a geetech i3 it took me year to make it work i've faced all kind of problems with the extruder, drivers, software... but it finally works maybe i can help you with yours
I would rank it #2, just behind the Ultimaker. Ultimaker is awesome, but stupidly overpriced. Ender 3, specially the Pro comes pretty damn close quality-wise once you tune it well!
I know I'm late to the party but just wanted to thank you for making this video. It's noticable that you've made some serious effort to make the video right so I think you deserved my subscription to your channel. Cheers
Hi, i am doing a Masters degree in Mechanical Engineering. I have taken a Design Elective, and have to write about how 3D printing aids the design process. I am enjoying your videos. Its helping me a lot.
Thingiverse is full with updates for the Anet A8, I also have one and it prints great! I only did one upgrade yet and that was a vibration demper to reduce the sound noise. Next update will be adding a mosfet, because the Anet isn't the safest 3d printer on the internet...
That's right, thingiverse is full of upgrades for the Anet A8. For the vibrations, by just simply adding a chunk of withe foam below the machine (I've holded down my printer to a table using 3D printed brackets) it reduces the noise a lot and also improves the print quality because there are less vibrations. I recommend to use the "Spriya" fanduct, is much better than the popular semicircular one.
I also use the spriya fan duct and it has greatly improved the printer as a whole. I recommend printing a filament guide and spool holder though to reduce strain on the extruder. The y belt tensioner is a must also.
mikel9292 - the Chinese cloners have missed the boat.....had some bright spark brought out a clone of the A8 ..with all the upgrades included and added a bit of quality control ....Joe Prusa would have a serious contender. The A8 set up reasonably well and taking care with the bed level, produces some class prints.
Amazing how the CR-10, even though this was a year ago, is still the 3D printer I use the most in my videos. It's $370 right now which is kinda cool: goo.gl/QvERnf
Thank you for your effort. Finally come comparable tests. I was wondering if I should get the Trinus 3D, because of it's great precision, but it seems that the CR10 is on par, but wiht much more space. A little critics I got: I think if you had chosen a less intense color (grey?), we could see layers and printing quality better.
i have had my cr-10s for 4 years and have never had a malfunction. My college users Ultimaker and I have replaced the hotend 4 times within the last year. Each costing 250$. Cr-10 is hands-down the most reliable printer on the market and is the most upgradable.
I just built the i3 MK3 and it blows the doors off of these printers in terms of quality (components, instructions, features, and print quality). Speed, I'm not sure of because I didn't notice him state the time this took. Also, I think he stated that he printed all of the models with the same settings, but I didn't hear nozzle diameter and layer height. There could have been a difference of quality if he chose very thick layers for speed.
Its junk, we got one a few months ago, the power supply took a crap, then the Ramps took a crap. Absolutely no customer service from prusa despite 4 emails
@@brandon1566 I'm under the impression that their customer service team doesn't have many who can interpret written English well, but I was able to talk with them. My power supply was starting to make a noise at some vibration nodes, so I took it apart to find that this Chinese-made power supply was of poor quality (including a capacitor installed with the leads shorted together). The rest of the printer is pretty darn good, and I've been running it nearly nonstop for about a month and a half now. After describing (in unnecessary detail) the observations and tweaks I had made, they replied with a brief email stating that they were sending me a replacement complete power supply, smooth rods kit, and bearings. My printer is the MK3 though. In this price range, it doesn't seem worth it to skimp.
Can you please do a balco 3D printer review I have one and I want to see what you think. :) P.S I have got great prints out of it but i'am having some trouble with flexible filament, its base model is a pura 3D printer. I am 11
Matthew Hutchinson this is a wanhao rebranded machine. Direct drive, which should do flexible just fine. Make sure to start first layer at a crawl (15mm/s) and the keep the rest of the print under 30mm/s.
Can someone please help me: I am trying to get into product development, over the last year I have saved up a bit of money for a PC and a printer... I am stuck between the Tevo Tarantula and Creality, but if I would go for the Creality printer, i would have to cut $200 off my Pc budget, making it a $700 computer. What would you do?
700$ PC should be good enough, especially if you make it yourself, plus, after a year or two, if you need some boost to your PC, you can always upgrade some parts of it that you feel need the most attention. So if you feel like you can build your own PC, definitely go for the Creality printer.
Get a second hand Thinkpad, such as a T430 or a T450. A T430 can be had very cheaply (300ish), and will outperform any laptop in the 700 range. Saves money for a better printer. That's for a laptop though :p
get the creality. Now that AMD's ryzen 5 cpus are on the market (and have had time for all the bugs with the new motherboard platform to be worked out), you can build a fantastic cad machine for $700. I'd say go for a ryzen 5 1600, as you get a six core, 12 thread cpu that performs comparably to the $450 intel 6800k, for around $200. 16gb ram is super worth it for cad, you'll really use up ram fast as you make more complex designs. Also go with fast ram (2666mhz or above) for ryzen as it likes lots of ram speed. finally, get a decently fast budget-oriented gaming gpu such as an nvidia 1050ti or radeon rx 560. Here's a link to a good example build I threw together, but remember pc part pricing fluctuates often so you'll want to tweak it depending on the shape of the market when you purchase: pcpartpicker.com/list/tmHy2R
I bought my first 3D printer, and it is a Ender 5 pro. I have to say that it was easy to assemble, but the first time I turned it on, the feed cable buckled and broke the stop sensor, so I am waiting on some new sensor I ordered. This brings me to the poor way they did not cover the sensors from damage, considering how cheap the sensors are, they should have made covers for them. Based on your review, I may take a closer look at the CR10.
RAPTOR Sjk that would be a DMLS printer. They’re still very large, use industrial levels of voltage, and very expensive. Some printers make different types of plastics though which are more durable than others.
That would be called SLS printing, which is different from these FDM printers. Most expensive type of printing. What you can do with these FDM printers is create a mold of your print with castable filament, then pouring metal into it to create your metal piece.
Names of the printers stay on screen for amazing 0.5 seconds, which makes you feel like you are challenged every time for speed reading competition. Just kidding. Make them stay longer. #muppetediting
I have been printing with the CR 10 for a week now, and this printer is mind blowing. Considering its price/performance this must be the best printer to buy in the world. I got it for 3600 SEK(423 USD). 300 microns look like 200 microns, and 200 look like 100 microns, and as is mentioned in the video the layers are laid down perfectly and in all axis. I don't understand why people feel the need to mod this machine, like messing with the fan duct or extruder when you can print one small object at 100 microns, at slow speed and still get no warping due to the extruder being close. Overhangs are also printed extremely well. If this machine cost one, two or up to three times more than it does, it would still make sense to buy it. If you are wondering if this machine is only good for large print like i was wondering before i bought it, wonder no more, it can handle both very very well. I started with UncleJesses Simplify3D settings, they worked well but i have tweaked them quite a bit, but only small tweaks in numbers. One needs to tweak these settings depending on filament and not just the machine. I am guessing this printer can handle 50 microns as well, i am just about to test it. for print speed i have it set to 60mm/s Anything negative well yes some: 1# My Z coupler was stretched out and basically destroyed, someone had printed with the machine as there was black filament in the nozzle. I was devastated over this since it took 25 days for the printer to arrive (gearbest/hongkong). I was anxious to print and did not want to mess with support and them sending me a new z coupler. I was ready to order a new coupler from Sweden and get it by mail in 1-2 days, but what i did was to compress the coupler with large whatever they are called pliers, and refit the coupler and i was super lucky as i get no z wobble whatsoever. I have read that many people get this stretched out z coupler, it boggles my mind how they can send the machine with this error, i also know why this can happen to the coupler and they should too. 2# I have not heard anyone complain about this and i have seen people printing objects 400mm tall that are perfect but, when small jittery features are being printed at the bottom, the top vibrates, BUT, i have got my printer standing at a large square piece of packing foam that was protecting the printer in its box. This could be the reason why i have extra vibrations, in fact it is very likely. One can do a mod for increased stability, also i think when small motions are made when the extruder are way up in the frame at the top of the object, the vibration will be much less or not exist since it is not happening at the base. 3# PSU noise, the power supply fan is crazy loud. The printer itself is not bad, but the PSU i will have to fix, there are solutions to this, they should have included a heat controller for this fan. I will have to take one from my old Prusa i3 that is really silent. 4# The controller knob for the display does not register clicks too well on my machine, could be a little better. With all that said, #1 and #2 could be a non issue for most people. My summary is that i wanted quality and print size this time and i got it. This printer is so good that i wonder how it compare to a MakerBot Z18 or similar that cost 8000 - 10 000 USD.
I want to sculpt and then digitize, then print crown molding with faces and other things. Man, I wish I had some of you as neighbors here in Utah to help with this.
Excellent video. You are very good at this, and I hope to see more. I've been watching reviews randomly for a few days, and yours was the most informative and entertaining....literally leaps and bound above the others.
i current own an cr10s , being printing out of it since 2018, very reliable printer for sure. I recently upgraded my hotend with ed3 v6 and put a new skr mini 1.2 32bit board, oh man the quality improved soo much since now i can enable linear advance.
I just ordered the CR10 printer and used your code to save about $130. Thank you. Looking forward to learning, using and possibly making some extra money.
Thanks for this! I'm looking to get my first 3d printer sometime in the future, little to no experience, trying to find out which one is best for me ~the whole 9 yards~ Your review of these gave me a lot of insight on prices vs quality - and honestly I'm surprised to see that some of the cheaper ones still have great quality results. I suppose a better show of comparisons would be then to use different filaments and see how they all stack up with those as well.
Ah.. 2017. That's about the same time I bought my (only) printer, a Wanhao i3 Plus. I was about to buy the Tarantula but when I visited the shop I saw how the Wanhao only took four screws to assemble - it did cost an extra $75 or so, but it was worth it.
Very, Very informative although I don't have a clue why you have so many "thumbs down". But for someone who is shopping and looking for a printer that will suit not only their budget but proficiency level, I was very impressed with your reviews and side-by-side demonstrations. Excellent work. I'm buying the CR-10.
