As blown as your CR6-SE's USB port? Jokes aside, seems like a weird ground loop issue. No idea how they managed that... Could it be you had one of the parts being connected (either PC or 3D printer) grounded while the other was ungrounded? Still don't think it should spark...
I’m doing research and thinking about getting into this hobby. I really like the fact that you do a review on the machine without doing modifications and just talk about it how it comes out of the box. There are way too many videos out there saying how printer is great but you need to do 15 different things to make it better I don’t really want to have to do that first thing. Later maybe. I really dig the honesty in these reviews thank you
I have a CR6SE and I have an extremely positive experience with it. It's stock and I have never failed a print and the print quality is pretty much perfect. Yes there has been issue with the kickstarter, but it seems to have been handled and fixed because I am having a blast with it.
@@snuurtje Did you update your firmware to get rid of those blobs? (As a total noob I’m a bit scared to update the firmware from the stock version my CR6SE came with)
Same! I was struggling with the decision, and looking for a video exactly like this to help. I'm glad to see I made the right choice it sounds like. :)
Had my v2 for a month. So easy to use. Attached octoprint this week, learning curve, but that's a good thing. The bed sticks well but always check your level. Not perfect hardware but prints are great.
@@niggo5949 congratulations, it's a great printer. Have fun making all kinds of things you never thought you needed. Don't let gear envy get you down. Don't forget the old adage "If ifs and buts were candy and nuts, Something something, deal with it." *Shakespeare, probably*
Actually a month ago I saw this video and still went ahead for the CR6 SE just for the auto bed leveling. It has been printing perfectly for me. None of the issues on the Internet occured. I believe those "known problems" were for old batches, they've fixed them already.
Have a CR-6 SE...as with my Ender3, I pulled a "Unicorn". 1500+ hours of it running, several KG's of filament through it, it prints as good as my friends PRUSA, and yes, it's a kickstarter printer. Switch was fine, PS was fine, Assembly went without a problem, I got my printer just about when I was supposed to (SHIP date was right where they said it would be, so many people screaming "I should have HAD my printer then, not the ship date"...that's not how it works, and nobody expected the customs fiascos everybody was having issues with (friend in the Netherlands had his stuck at customs for 6 weeks). As for sound? Freaking QUIET. It sits in my office, and I many times have to look at the printer to ensure it is running. Not saying there aren't problems...I'm just not experiencing them. Not saying I won't have issues, but so far? My Ender3 has 5000+ hours of runtime...all that I really "changed" was the "hot end fix" and I also changed the bed springs...as for changes to my 6SE? Just the filament guide, and only because I didn't want to deal with the "gap", even though I printed about 30 different colors before actually making that addition, I really didn't have a problem with feeding filament that so many complained about...maybe it's me, maybe it's them. Is what it is.
My CR-6Se has been also trouble-free so far (knock on wood) and the only mod was the filament guide (Creality should just add it in production). I'm nowhere near 1500 hours on mine but expect it to behave.
This seems to be my understanding as well: It's not that the machine was necessarily engineered poorly, so much as quality control seems to make it a bit of a gamble sometimes!
My CR-6 SE has been without issue as well. I've printed some fantastic prints, including some very wide items that take up most of the bed. No issues. Good quality. The auto bed leveling for me is worth the extra $135. Just push a button and level, no calibration. The only thing I have changed is the nozzle and the feed tube. Its upstairs printing now, perfectly silent you can't hear it even if you are in the room next to it. So for me, its great. I'm thinking about getting another one just so I can print more (some of my prints take 2 - 3 days).
Hey not sure if you will see this, but its been a while now since you posted this, i am looking at getting into 3d printing. and i was told the cr-6 se was a good started, and i like that it has auto leveling since i feel from what i have seen is one of the biggest factors of having a good print. so would you recommend it now? after all this time?
Sir, Do you know auto resume function works on the shipped firmware? Also do we need to update firmware for daily use or wait for marlin 2.x update from creality?
4:41, the CR-6 before tha latest update, released a few days ago, actually wrote the PLR data to the EEPROM, and stored the EEPROM data on the SD. The latest official update fixes this and there are no more pauses during printing. (The unofficial community firmware has had this, and the bed scratching issue that happened if prints are cancelled during the first layer, fixed for a while now, too) Also I _REALLY_ wish all the 3DP RU-vidrs had put their "hey maybe don't get the CR-6" videos out a few weeks ago before I pulled the trigger on my CR-6 SE and the refund window ran out :D
@@Krytern You're entitled to your opinion as he would be but it only takes a few seconds to mention the extra motor and to state the opinion. BTW, I do not share your opinion as I' feel others do not also.
@@Tertion Out of curiosity, I'd love to know why two Z-axis motors is pointless given the size. It's not an issue to have the carriage sagging on one side? I say this because I have an Anet A8 I've practically re-built from the ground up, but the carriage will always sag on one side, where the motor is weak and lets it fall a bit when the power isn't switched on! One motor certainly seems less complicated, for sure!
@@Tertion First, it isn't a "dual axis" since both motors are driving the Z axis. Weight is certainly a design consideration. I'm sure Creality knows that many (maybe most) users will convert to a direct drive extruder to get rid of the POS they provide. Personally, I never prefer cantilevered designs for anything if cost effective alternatives are available as they are here. The NON-cantilevered design is the major reason I bought an E5+ instead of one of the E5 models.
I dont get all this hate videos towards the CR-6 Se ! I have used the printer in 3 months now , ( 89 hours used ) and i had 0% problems ! The quality is top notch , and i Still using the stock power switch without any issues !
I've never owned the Ender V2 but did just purchase the CR-6 and absolutely love it! I have had none of the issues you described, only perfect prints with outstanding quality.
The Ender 3 V2 is about $390 CAD from all major retailers around me. I bought the CD-6SE for $440 after a Black Friday discount... I think these few upgrades out of the box are worth the $50. Thanks for the vid!
I've had the CR6-SE for over a month now and I have not had any of the problems many people are describing. I am actually getting near perfect prints all the time with this machine.
Same. I’ve had a great experience with the CR6-SE. the only issues I’ve had are really just due to my inexperience with 3D printing. It’s been a great learning experience.
I maybe one of the lucky ones, I've currently printed about 200hrs on my CR6-SE, in the first 5 hours of printing I had the filament sensor issue which required to be opened/glued in place but after that its been flawless, auto leveled twice in my 200hrs of printing, exactly what I was after, super low maintenance 3d printing, as my previous printer I spent nearly as much time tweaking it as I did printing with it :P
This resonates with how I feel really, I think the community is largely split between those that want to design and simply print and then those that want to 'geek out' and tinker away, intimately knowing every part of their 3D printer(s) as they slowly replace/upgrade everything... The CR-6 SE appeals to those that just want to 'hit the ground running', but seems to get a bashing from the tinker crowd I think..?
Nice catch. That's the type of thing that makes it a deal breaker. If they can't get the simplest and obvious thing right, how could anyone possibly be comfortable with all the stuff you can't see.
I have a CR-6 SE and actually prefer it’s print quality over that of the Ender3 V2. But then I don’t use the standard Creality Slicer, but Cura 4.8 with custom profiles for both the CR-6 SE and Ender3 V2.
I always appreciate your honest and thorough reviews, I'm surprised you didn't mention the CR-6 SE having dual-Z though. That and auto bed leveling put it over the Ender-3 V2 for me, even with the added cost. I backed the CR-6 SE campaign about midway through my experience has been very different from yours (and possibly many others). I haven't had any issues at all and my print quality and reliability have been fantastic. I've seen the issues other owners have experienced, so I may have just gotten very lucky.
I generally try to only include details that are significant, extraordinary or have large impacts on usability, safety or quality. Yes, the CR-6 SE has a dual Z-axis, but with how consistent the Ender-3 v2 is printing, I don't see what difference it would make.
@@MadeWithLayers that's fair enough. I had persistent issues with the gantry binding/sagging on the unsupported side my Ender-3 V1. Turned out to be defective v-slot wheels, but I've valued dual-Z more since then.
If you were to pick between the ender 3 v2 and the prusa mini, which one would you choose and why? This would be very helpful so that I know which 2nd printer to get.
6:01 those are NOT genuine GATES belts on the CR6-SE! Those are cheap Chinese knockoffs. Genuine Gates belts are reddish/brown in color on the teeth side.
I have both models and get really good prints out of both. The CR6 SE experience for me has so far been rock solid and it seems like a really good unit. The Ender 3 V2 prints well when you finally get the bed level and compensate for the Non flat bed, not sure how Thomas was dealing with that especially with the factory springs. Once again some good mods to fix it and a BL Touch would be great for it, but out of the box, not great.
Had a CR-6 for about 3 weeks, have pretty much been running it around the clock without any major issues and the prints are spot on. I did flash the community firmware immediately though and I block the power pin on the USB cable to my octopi. I also replaced the power switch but creality refunded the cost. Overall have been incredibly impressed so far. It's quick too, I print at 80mm/s normally but have run upto 150mm/s and quality hasn't suffered massively...could probably go higher.
I got my CR6-SE from the kickstarter a while back and I've never had any issues like you have shown. The only "mod" ive done is update the firmware to their newest versions. I've used it with and without Octoprint as well. Interesting to see the lack of quality control on their end.
Finally got my 6 SE, it prints awesome! I also have the Ender 3 PRO. The dog sample print came out fantastic, super smooth , I could not believe the quality. NO layer lines visible, incredible. I Love your channel but I have to disagree. The filament run out sensor and the auto leveling is enough to make this printer worth the extra $ in my opinion. This is especially true for those new to 3D Printing. I don't have the Ender 3 PRO V2 so I can not compare the quality, but the quality is better than my Ender 3 PRO
@@tomaskonkol8894 Yeah if you're going direct, dual-gear extruder, maybe even a volcano hotend with larger fan(s) and ducting for partfæs cooling - that adds a significant amount of mass (and inertia) to your print head.
Well, if n=1 you will never get a significant result in statistics. This is what must have happenend here. I acknowledge Thomas expertise but in this case he is wrong. Despite his recommendation I bought the CR-6 and I am totally happy. Out of the box - with no adjustements at all - It provides fantastic results. The autoleveling is a burner and the precision is surprising. I use it for prototyping - we have a sheet metal shop. My latest print a 250 mm high rectangular tower with a base of 110 x 110 mm and only 0,8 mm thick walls is unbelievable. Straight as a ruler, no flaws after 20 hours of print time - just to clap enthusiastically. Conclusion: since it is difficult for a tester to increase n it is advised to be reluctant regarding the personal experience. It could well be that he recieved just a single faulty example. So my recommendation is to buy the CR-6 SE since the autoleveling is something you never want to miss.
Just ordered my first Ender 3 V2. But now my supplier tells me they discovered a main issue with the Ender 3 V2, and sent the whole lot back to Creality. During a long print job layer shifting occurs. Probably caused by overheating the stepper motor driver. They contacted Creality about this issue, but Creality does not have a solution and can't confirm the cause of the issue. So be careful when buying the Ender 3 V2 right now, wait till the issues are solved !!!
I just got my under 3v2 and within two weeks it's already stopped working. And no I'm not abusing it. The armature with the extruder on it no longer raises as it's printing. So I get a base for my print glob i've melted plastic smeared on cross my bed or a ball of plastic string. And since my film it seems to have nowhere to go it keeps breaking off in the Boden tube. The manufacturer seems to be ignoring me. And I know longer know what to do. Try to refax that I could find online. And I don't know. But I'm beginning to think it's the stepper motor. But why would it go bad so fast. When I disable the stepper motor and try to move it manually it seems to move with much more effort. It doesn't seem to move much on its own while printing maybe an inch or so. Any advice or help is needed and would be appreciated
The cr6 is better specc'd in every dept and to get the ender to the same spec you would be paying more than I did for the cr6 as well as having the hassle of modding/setting it all up. I paid only $320 my cr6 and was getting high quality prints straight out on the box with no messing around and I would never consider any printer without ABL
TL;DR: he got a bad version of the CR-6 SE, perhaps a good version of the Ender 3 V2. This video is problematic. Is the CR-6 SE perfect? No, it isn't, however most of the issues were limited to the Kickstarter. (I would still swap out the switch on newly purchased machines, because it is a simple way to protect your investment.) You seem to have gotten a worse CR-6 SE than myself and many others. I've got a few hundred hours in on my CR-6 SE and I'm pretty happy with it. This is the biggest flaw in the video, he's offering one data point and failing to recognize that. He mentions not doing any tuning, and anyone who has dealt with 3D printers should acknowledge that some fine tuning is necessary for any machine. I got my CR-6 SE for $300 USD, and am happy with it. He is spot on with the criticism of the filament sensor. If I was doing it again, now, I would probably get an Ender 3 V2, because it is cheaper AND has more aftermarket mods available (direct drive extruder/all metal hotend, ender extender, etc). However that wasn't an option when I got into the Kickstarter, and it talks about mods which are not taken into account in his video. Lastly, was the CR-6 SE he's comparing an early demo unit for reviewers? He mentions that you can buy the Ender 3 V2, but doesn't tell us if this was a unit specifically provided to him for review. He has good videos, but this one is clearly biased, and that is problematic.
I bought the SE, and I have had no issues with. The prints look excellent, and the bed leveling works better than I thought it would. Filament loading is a bit fiddly, but it’s not a show stopper for me at least. I definitely think the V2 is probably the better value, but the SE bed leveling is worth it. I own three other Creality printers (Ender 3 Pro, and CR-10 which I have modified the crap out of). Creality has come a long way, but one thing I have learned, is the first version is always the worst version. That said, if bed leveling causes you headaches, and you don’t want to wait for a Prussa Mini, the the SE might be an option for you. Great video!
Would love your toughts on the BUQU B1 i bought it for my self a month ago... it is awsome :) i bought it over the ender 3 v2. it is just more modular. And the prints are perfect out of the box
Still rocking my Ender 3. I prefer the barebones-ness of them. It's helped me to learn a lot about 3d printing and potential causes for user error. Recently picked another one up because they're so reliable once set up.
I have the Ender 3 V2, (my first printer) and I have no regrets. I added a bl touch and capricorn tubing, otherwise all stock. I do use Prusa slicer and it's been a reliable workhorse!
I'm pretty happy with my v2 as my first printer, dramatically surprised by the quality anyway. The bed has a really horrible time of keeping a level (even with yellow springs and adjusting the z-end stop switch) and the really weird, fairly unfinished firmware are some downsides... I've had all sorts of issues firmware related, and the micro SD card readers' spring gave up after around 15 days, so if you put an SD card in now, it holds for a second or two, then gets fired to the opposite end of the room like it's a firing range or something. I was travelling for a genuine reason a week or so ago and decided to stop by some family, and I had left a fairly old laptop there. Then I got thinking... I could easily flash a Linux distro onto it (I chose Raspbian just for simplicities sake) and installed OctoPrint onto it, and it works a treat! I did have the printer directly plugged into my main computer, but if I turned the printer off, it would try to draw as much current as possible and try to turn itself on... Over USB... Yeah, my computer didn't like that... 350W over a USB cable? Not happening. Nearly wrecked 2 USB ports on my computer, and I'm lucky that's the only thing that happened! Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice, shame on me. At least now it's only an old laptop that'll lose a USB port if I forget to turn it off before the printer. And it solves the USB issue. Doesn't solve the inability to use EEPROM though, even with compiling my own firmware and using the most recent official one.
if you want to fondle knobs all day get the 3,, if you want to set it, and forget it, get the 6... my 3 is in the closet right now... I don't want to be some garage 3D printer Mage,. I just want my sh*t to print and 3 failed for me on all fronts..
For hobby printer, you can't get much better print quality than the ender 3 v2 as long as you use high quality filament, maybe a fan mod for better overhang and bridging if necessary. The only upgrade that I do is changing the bed to magnetic PEI and all metal extruder, I don't mind doing manual leveling once in a while.
I am very impressed with the CR6 SE. I have absolutely zero of the issues in this video. I have flawless prints with minimal setup. And right now it costs around 200€ with a tomtop coupon. It was just out of the box perfect for me as a beginner. When I compare my results with others I always like mine more with the standard profile and "Das Filament" PLA. But I already read they upgraded the CR 6 SE silently. Even the filament guide is now included. So I guess maybe I'm just lucky?
I actually have the opposite experience, I bought the 3v2 and it came in with missing parts, ordered the second one but had nothing but problems, almost every print failed and it was stressing me out having to check on it constantly to make sure the print was fine, I bought the cr6se from offer up for a great price and haven’t had a single print fail me. I tore down the 3v2 and sent it back to Amazon and have no regrets. The cr6se is so much quieter and smoother, the print quality compared to what you showed here is so much better, and I haven’t tweaked anything or even upgraded the firmware. I guess it’s a hit or miss with creality.
Thanks. I agree with you, modifying or too much tweaking of the printer does not reflect the "out of the box experience". My CR-10 mini gave me great prints with just the basic adjustments. Over the past year, I've upgraded the machine so, like you said, it's now a new machine, not a CR-10 mini anymore.
Question, if you wanted to keep a budget on a new 3d printer to no more than $350, would you go with the Ender 3 V2 and buy all the mods for it to make it even better? or would you go a different route and buy a different 3d printer?
"Why are you so paranoid?!" she asks. "Because of the *Decepticons!!* I say with gruff seriousness. I laughed. She laughed. The printer laughed. I shot the printer.
Got my CR6 Se days ago and really happy with it. But I'm guessing the version I got has taken care of all off the early flaws in construction/software. Still struggling with the slicer settings for the supports but that's part off the fun I think.
@@barnett25 I have a Prusa MK3S, which is direct drive. I would not say it is in any way finicky, though I have not had any bowden style printer. The only issues I had were with bed adhesion in the beginning (with PETG warping), which is not related to the type of extruder.
Hi, i just bought a Ender 3D max printer... but i can't find anywhere how to install driver in Cura 12 and how to print from Cura 12 via USB cable connected to the computer . Can you please make a video? Thank you.
Great "out of box" assessment, Tom. The V2 represents everything Creality had learned about perfecting the Ender 3 thus far and any new features like the display still need an iteration. I bit and bought a later in the production run discounted kickstarter CR-6 SE fully aware that there would be some if not many teething issues. I would not recommend it as a first printer in its present state (you can't go wrong with any version of an Ender-3 for a first printer). I harken back to the CR-10 which was also much maligned when it was initially released but after many upgrades it's one of the few printers in my shop that have stayed put and I don't see it leaving any time soon. To me the CR-10 bed size is the key reason. I like the CR-6 SE and its potential to be the next printer to stick around my shop. I look at it as what the Ender 3 would grow up to become when aspects of the CR-6 have the kinks worked out.
its a great video pointing out alot of the obvious flaws that really have no right to have not been caught in development in the cr6se but i think overall youll see a longer lifespan in that glass bed (the metal clips tend to warp the bed after a while compared to the plastic ones) the latching extruder is honestly a huge QOL improvement that i didnt think id like as much as i do and dear god the daughter board on the hotend is a godsend if i have to wire another thermistor through a wiring loom ever again i will lose my mind
I got the Ender 3 V2 after watching this and your head shaving video. I am so happy. It just works out of the box. we spent all day measuring and building. the only issue I am having at the moment is the build area has a sink in it. the plate is flat. we checked it with a square. I think my X-axis is bent that is the only explanation. as long as you build small stuff it is not an issue but I did scratch the surface of the plate while building the filament rollers. also the printer is not level on its feet. Used the warranty papers to level it out :) so literally everything to make the printer work comes out of the box ;) The quality is exceptional. we were surprised to say the least. well made and product. I am going to build my filament detector and filament cleaner (next print). later I will check to see if I can build a bed leveling. Out of the box it is great and works. I used the standard filaments to print the examples in the sd card (dog and cat) worked great. I used tinylab 3d black filament. worked great. filament broke at the end of the scraper pocket then I decided to build the rollers. It is important to have bearing rollers for filament. right now I am printing the bearing covers but it is on the bearings and works great. I replaced the creality slicer to Cura. I will probably replace the firmware later. apperantly the current one does not work with bed leveling. the cr-6 is almost twice as expensive here in Turkey which does not justify the price difference.
I love my CR6. It prints great and I've had zero trouble with it. The auto leveling is amazing. The only thing I did was print the block to put inbetween the filament sensor and extruder. I was unaware of a firmware upgrade and I'll be going that tomorrow. I actually got my kickstarter well before I was expecting it and paid $318.
130$ for a abl and filament sensor?! For that money I can get Ender 3 V2 and add 3DTouch + Filament Sensor from Trianglelabs. And will still have money left to get 1. An all metal heatbreak (or better hotend all together) 2. Powder Coated Pei Sheet 3. A better extruder (tons of options. I got BMG clone) 4. Make it direct drive 5. Some nice filament 6. Some gummy bears as you assemble it
Great Video! But Don't buy the CR-6 SE i have so many issues with this 400 Euro garbage !! Extruder problems, hot end, leveling, and more more, pice of sh..t. I recommend Ender 3- pro/V2/plus, Cr-10/Cr-10v2 or V3.
And here I am with my problem free CR6-SE 😅 Yes, the kickstarter wasn't something great! but I really like my CR6-SE, leveling is perfect, touchscreen works perfect, quieter then my old Ender 3 and Ender 3-Pro.. also the print quality was the same out of the box as my modded Ender 3-Pro. I was the lucky one with the golden ticket I think ;)
SInce your video review in 2020 Creality listened to the users and did fix some issues. I have a CR-6SE and yes although more expensive that the Ender 3's I have had no major problems using it and the print quality and results are IMO excellent. Let's not rule out the user error and settings mistakes are part of the factors that many users forget to take into account. Bottom line, learn the craft, learn the machine and learn your slicer. Mistakes will happen and IMO there there is always going to be pros and cons for every machine out there. The ones who are as close to a utopian machine cost quite a bit of money and when things go wrong then what? All relative to use case. But when I did my research and ask many questions, I got the same answers, you want a inexpensive starter the Ender series is good. You want to step up a little with auto leveling and bigger print area vs a Ender 3 V2 or Pro, go CR-6SE. Again this is just one happy satisfied users opinion.
I have both the printers... and my idea is completely the opposite. Of course every folk has the right to have his own opinion, but my opinion is completely different. Saying that Ender 3 V2 is better then the CR-6 is more like to say "ehy, I am smarter because I can achieve the same quality with less money... " this is even more true if you consider that now you can get a CR-6 SE for 280€. I repeat: I have both and I am very very happy with my V2, but saying it is better then the CR-6... well. it is a click-bait in my opinion.
I am thinking about buying a printer I think you convinced me to get a Creality Ender-3 v2 ... I just wish they had a consistent way of numbering things. Like Cleality Ender 22 in 2022 ... but I have been saying things like this about phones etc. as well :))) It is very confusing especially when they have Ender Ender Pro but Ender Pro X and then Ender 3 v2 ... just give us simple numbers bigger is better and more expensive would work fine. Also using the year would be informative ... sigh.
Ah, the old sparks from the screen. Just like I had one my Ender 5. Classic. That one had PSU mounting screwes (from the factory!) that reached inside and touched the live rails on the power supply, so the frame was actually live. Didn't notice except when the screen was off the frame or wire unplugged. Because they also hadn't grounded the frame on the AC side.
Sadly too late. CR-6 Max via Kickstarter. Arrived this week. Afraid to open it. Thinking for my needs the Ender 5+, to compliment my Ender 5 Pro, with a DD and all metal hotend and a flex build plate with PEI/PEX would do me much better.
The Ender 3 v2 is a good printer with impressive prints, but that’s where the good stuff ends. The Fans. All 4 of them are noisy. The PSU fan sounding like a jumbo jet engine. It’s worrying that Creality covered the vents of the PSU which is potentially dangerous. I changed the PSU fan and open up the vents. Creality must tap into the PC space fir quiet fans. It seams the first thing people do is to VOID the warranty to make it this printer quiet. Why do consumers accept this? When raised with Creality they sent out a new nozzle fan, which does not come close to fixing the issue. Here is a suggestion: Have 3 pin 12v connections standard for all fans. Build firmware to see the RPM of the fans. Easy to replace if a fan fails. To change to 12v fans you will need a buck converter to reduce the voltage. A lot of work and expense just to get a quiet life. The Springs for the print bed are flimsy. I bought new one that are more reliable. I was not impressed with Creality support. Weeks of sending videos. They sent a fan that is nowhere near fixing the noise. After poor customer service I have decided to Void my warranty and change all the fans. Watching loads of Videos on you tube, looking through loads of 3d print sites I see an abundance of 3d parts to change to mod for 12v Fans. But why should the End user be made to make these changes? That’s what Creality need to address but won’t. Creality should be ashamed and embarrassed that their end users feel they have to make these modifications and VOID their Warranty. Creality have certainly dropped the ball, and it’s not just the Ender 3v2, it all enders that people are modifying. With poor customer service, noisy fans, Poor Springs and a PSU that Creality covered up, potentially making it dangerous, I will not purchase another Creality Printer. Creality, if an honest company, must look at fixing these issues and offer customers the opportunity to have it fixed Free. The feeling I get is they simply do not care.
I have both. The CR6 Kickstarter campaign was a joke. Received my printer 7 months after order. They even shipped to the wrong address as a bonus. I was very dissatisfied with the customer service. Then I found out about early units with motherboard, switch, and bed shorting issues and was somehow glad for the delay. Still, I believe the customer service was a joke. Turns out the CR6 is a very good printer.
When you gain fame you can do whatever you want. I own a Tronxy XY2 pro 2 years ago with color screen, filament end sensor, automatic level sensor, 250 x 250 bed size and still working fine. Much much better than an Ender 3. And even cheaper. And today with Cura 4.8 works even better.
I saw a RU-vidr shows amazing print quality on CR6 SE after a minor tweak by adjust adjusting the tension on the extruder. The quality became much much better and I've never seen that quality on the Ender 3....Ah such a tough decision...really wanna get one myself. A little more bias towards the CR6 SE
Sorry, but this video is out of date as long as the ender 3D V2. I got the newest CR-6 SE, with newest software, on tthe touchscreen too, with multiple languages.. Now I can´t find any of the problems you´re telling about in this video. All i printed out was perfect and than I made a big mistake. I forgot to put the glass platform back in place and started a new print. But what happened then? NOTHING damaged, no scratches and the printer printed in the same way as before, with a surface that was in thr front 9mm higher than in the back. I recognized this after a few minutes and stopped the print, but I think that printer would had finished that print without any problems. Try THIS with the ender 3D V2 and look what happens ... :-)
It's funny - my CR-6 SE has given me flawless print after print out of the box needing zero adjustments. Print quality is also way better than what is shown here in this video. I also feel the video glosses over many of CR-6's smaller advantages: a wider bed axis for extra stability, dual Z axis stepper motors for extra stability, a handle for easy moving, a side-mounted spool which negates the problem the Ender 3 has where the filament enters the bowden tube at an angle which can cause irregular filament feeding, the bed is more easily removed and replaced, you have a bigger build volume, a built-in tool box with extra tools, better cable management, etc. About the only advantage the Ender 3 V2 has, is the nicer screen bezel. I agree that the plastic looks hideous. But then again, if Prusa can use 3D printed bezels, why can't we print our own? All in all, I paid €100 extra for all the above as well as the auto-bed leveling and filament sensor + a (surprisingly) good quality spool of white filament. Yeah, sure, I'm aware of the issues mentioned by some people but the Ender 3 had the same complaints and that didn't stop it from becoming the best selling 3D printer in history - difference is that CR-6 SE in general requires very little to no tweaking.
I bought an Ender 3 V2 2 weeks back unfortunately I fried the board when installing the BL Touch apparently the positive and signal cable were swapped the version of my BL Touch
I have a CR-6 SE because it was on sale for the same price as an Ender 3 V2 and had the fancy ABL and all that stuff, but in the end I *really* wish I had gone vor the E3 V2 instead. Not having the physical controls for the screen, not having a way to manually level, and having a severely more limited set of mods ready to print on from the internet makes for a clunky experience. The ABL is useless, leveling manually requires printing and tuning spacers, the glass bed is held in poorly, and that's about all it has that is even supposedly better. Just a shame, really.
