A subscriber was cleaning out his shed and had this in the corner, so he gave it to us to see how it would do after putting it away with marvel mystery oil in the fuel system, so lets find our by taking it apart,
UPDATE FROM THE OWNER: Just for a quick FYI.....The petcock on the gas tank does have a 100 micron brass mesh filter on it just inside the tank. From the video I'd say it needs a shot of air backflushed through the hose. The black sludge in the carb bowl is obviously from the hose, which is the original one and is well over twenty years old. I'm surprised it didn't leak gas through the length of it. As for the pump.....As per Homelite's recommendation, it was always filled with a 50/50 solution of Prestone Anti-freeze when put in storage. I blew this out with HP air months ago before I gave it to Darren. I had originally planned to go though the machine and put it out along with the generator on the curb for sale. I never got around to that and when I came across Mustie's videos I thought what a good idea it would be to let him have them and a few other things for his videos. I finally got my shed cleaned out! Best everyone, George C.
That rubber bushing on the coupling is called a spider that what’s Lovejoy call it anyway . Enjoy your Sunday morning videos keep them coming . Greetings from Dartmouth Nova Scotia Canada
These are actually called Spider Couplings. Their intent is for use on low-precision moderate torque transmission. The one which is on this machine is made of Buna-n rubber. There are also ones made of Hytrel which is stiffer. The one shown is actually in new condition as I didn't use this machine that much. Best, George C.
Not sure that it was still a needle/seat issue when you kept getting debris in the bowl - possibly from the ? year old fuel line crumbling internally from being crimped with vice-grips. As to filters - your issues may come from using the wrong style filters. Gravity fed fuel systems prefer screen style fuel filters, while pump assisted systems like paper filters better. In this case I would have ditched the factory petcock, installed a barbed fitting, an inline fuel shut-off, and a screen style filter into new fuel line. But enough second guessing - Your videos are always entertaining and informational insights into how machinery works.
Because you are the guy that brings things back to life after they have been put away incorrectly. You should do one-five videos on how you would put different pieces of equipment into long term storage. Like tires and wheels, gas/diesel engines, electric motors/generators. How you think it should be done. Like I would bag tires in some form of inert gas like maybe nitrogen? Back in the old days it was wax paper and cosmoline.
At last, pressure washers and I know more than Mustie! When you unscrewed that large knob on the unloaded valve you reduced the operating pressure, it would help if there was a pressure gauge fitted. Letting it run for too long with the gun closed and water recycling will cause it to overheat. Most of these washers can suck water in if mains supply isn’t available and you can buy suction kits. Run your mains into a plastic 200 litre barrel or similar and let it fill, it will top up as you close the gun. I used to build them on trailers for contractors mostly with larger Diesel engines and with a large water tank plus a hose reel. Silicone oil or grease is good on the O rings. The pistons are probably a ceramic material, the pump looks to be a copy of those we were using back in the 70s. They’re pretty reliable.
I just recently channeled my inner Mustie. With gas prices the way they are, it got me thinking that I have an old Honda Aero 50 scooter sitting back behind my shed. I had tried screwing with it years before and never got it running right. Now that I have a Sonic cleaner and have watched quite a few hours of mustie videos, I took another stab at the carburetor. Put it in the Sonic cleaner for a while and then poked around all the holes and orifices with a bristle from a wire brush. Blew it all out with air, and now it runs amazing! It's really too bad three of the four turn signals are busted out and missing lenses, the brake lights done work and is broke out, it has no license plate and I have no idea if a title or registration even exists for it. Otherwise, I would love to drive it back and forth to work. The local sheriff or state patrol probably wouldn't like it :( Super fun to ride around the property though.
The name for the corrosion your looking for I think is verdigris. Aluminium goes white crusty and copper goes green crusty. Also I've had issues with leaky carb and fuel tap which eventually was traced back to a blocked tank breather! As the fuel expanded and evaporated in the tank, which it naturally does, it created enough pressure to overcome the tap and needle and seat flooding fuel out of the filter side of the carb.
Thanks for the video My Man! FYI those bores go the other direction, because your pressure regulation knob doesn't sit against the engine like how you have it now, it will run, but, it will be a pain to adjust, you need to flip the block 180°
How many boomers out there in YTube world feeling nostalgic about stuff "Made in Japan"? At the time, our bitching about the poor quality was universal, but boy, were we proven wrong. Today those memories seem more like the good ole days than I could have ever imagined. Happy Easter y'all.
Every carbureted thing I own, if it has a fuel shutoff I use it. I like to switch fuel off while running to burn of all gas in carb and lines. Especially if it's going to be stored for any length of time. Keeps carb from being gummed up. Sometimes I'll pull feed line after it's been run dry and feed it non ethanol gas to keep everything lubed with fuel without the possibility of carb issues when pulling it out of long storage. It's worked for me many years now.
We lived in a home that had community well water service, our water pressure was worse than yours sometimes. Had to time the shower time and hope other neighbors weren't showering at the same time. Plus the house had galvenized pipes and we didn't dare drink the tap water.
I always look for your videos on Sunday mornings and enjoy watching them, What do you think about turning off the gas supply while it's running and storing it that way. I have always done this with my equipment and never experienced problems. Your opinion? I forgot to mention draing the tank for winter storage.
Hey Mustie. Have ever thought about setting up your carbs in a stand while connected to your mobile fuel source? This way you can test the needle and float without having to install and remove the carb.
Working on a pressure washer that has been sitting is a cross your fingers and hope situation! The guys I have spoken to tell me its almost impossible to get all of the water out for storage, THEN they are hoping problem number 1 doesn't surface of the carburetor not being drained. I'm really glad this was stored with the marvel mystery oil and it like all the rest does have a limit. They advertise like it has endless storage time and it to has a limit. 👍👍👍
Back in the day I repaired and was factory trained on Karcher pressure washers . There procedure when repairing a unit was to use Vaseline on the " O " rings during reassembleing.
The twin nozzle setup is for soap and wash. The larger tip is a soap tip. Soap won’t draw through the DS injector with a small orifice high pressure tip installed, so you use a larger orifice low pressure tip. It’s supposed to make it easier, but in practice they don’t work that well. I’d switch it to a Quick Connect and get the proper sized high pressure tips and then a black soap tip. Also, all the pro pressure washers were screaming NO!!! when you adjusted the unloader valve. To set the unloader, look up the pump flow and pressure rating, then using a nozzle calculator select a 25 degree nozzle with an orifice size that gets you the closest to the rated pressure at the rated flow. Then, get yourself a pressure washer gauge, put it at the GUN end (this compensates for hose insertion losses), fire the machine then adjust the unloader so it runs at the rated pump pressure with the trigger pulled and only jumps 200-300 psi when you close the trigger. This maximizes the flow of the machine.
Finally someone understands I work on these for a living so I get pretty tired of explaining to people what you said here. Couldn’t have said it better my self
Darren, you’ve been doing this so long you know what we’re saying ,like, no I’m not looking at the manual . Lol 😝 as a ham radio operator ,we have a saying , as a last resort ,look at the manual .
Happy Easter 🐣 Mustie. Live watching your videos!!!! Gonna have to watch this one later on today. Cooking for the family to come over. Have a great day and keep up the great work!!!
Kinda cool design at the tip, the low pressure is for when you use the soap hoes as it needs low pressure to draw the soap up the tube and then when done flip the wand over and you can jet wash the car. Never seen that before, great video btw from the 🇬🇧
Pressure washing pumps plunger style like that have the seals/packing are stationary in the manifold/pump head and the only thing that moves in there are the pistons. The one-way check valves two per piston six total need to be cleaned and make sure that they are moving and not stuck I would not have recommended going to town with a HONNE on that head but I guess I’ll see you when you’re done. When replacing the seals/packing there is a hard plastic washer that’s at the bottom to the next want to go in is a rubber style cup seal and it should be difficult to get in you take your finger and push down on one side and then with your other finger roll it in. It is easier to serve them in scalding hot water to get them pliable. Then the next one should be a thinner plastic seal than a brass washer solid kind of looks like it but it has a flat surface on one side and concave on the other. Then the next piece of brass will have a rubber insert on one side and that’s the final one with an O-ring wrapped around it. So black plastic washer, most of the time a brown rubber seal rounded side facing up concave side facing down then the next a thin smaller black plastic seal brass washer that has a concaved on the bottom and flat on the top and then the final piece of brass with rubber. It should not be easy to turn that pump.
I always search on Sunday for a Mustie upload. Thanks for the extra pain in the ass to make the videos Mustie. Its always a pleasure and we get to learn something in the process.
Another good Mustie vid , I think verdegris is the word you were looking for for the growth on the brass.I wish fuel was $5 a gallon here in the UK ,i bought 4.9 litres (1.3 us gallons) and it was £8.19 or $10.7
You can use liquid dish soap as a lube for rubber seals or impellers as the main ingredient is Glycerin. A Mighty Vac pump / vacuum works great for testing fuel inlet valves. If it holds air it will hold liquid.
you come across some killer deals, where I live most of the unwanted equipment I find has already had repairs attempted by people who have gotten in over their head. You should see the pile of four wheelers I am slowly putting back together. Looks like the scene of a cars horror movie.
I found that CLR does a pretty good job of removing lime buildup on the inside of pressure washer pumps, and it's a non-abrasive material removal technique
It always surprises me to see someone that still uses a speedhandle. I inherited two from my dad (a 3/8 and a 1/2") that probably date back to the '40s. I don't use them often, but they sure do come in handy.
Have a 3/8 and 1/2 speed handle. Don't think I have ever used them. Got them from when I was in the Army. They were throwing away a whole bunch of tools. I grabbed all I could.
Just find or buy another tank valve already! Also need to take apart the nozzle head at end of wand! Not sealing when twisting to high pressure! Only one nozzle should be spraying on high-pressure both spray on low pressure
at 205 rubber rejuvenator works, i put some in a bottle cap and put an old o ring in it for a while, then put just the o ring off to the side and next day it was better. was just a test.
Very good Mustie1. I need to do a little maintenance on my power washer…. It has been in the basement not outside so expecting it to be usable at least…. This was a great tutorial..👍👍
0:43 Not sure how good that 2nd Homelite "generator" is going to do as far as providing electricity, but it looks like it might do a good job cleaning your sidewalk....for a generator.
The Teledyne "Homelite" branded products were and are pretty decent, using Wisconsin Robin (Fuji) smaller or Teledyne Continental larger engines on a lot of the generators, compressors & washers and also the milspec units intended for military use. Can still get parts for most of these engines. I'd rather have an Onan but these are not bad. Looks like this one runs great & was stored fairly decently.
Another project, another valuable learning lesson! Might have been a fairly easy fix but more importantly it’s packed with knowledge so thank you! I’ve heard nightmare stories about using the winter mix in the pump so to be safe I just roll my pressure washer into the basement for the winter months. I’m sure that stuff works, but it’s just easier this way for me cause it’s guaranteed not to freeze and is nicer to go through it in my basement shop vs the garage shop. Anyway, thanks for taking us along, another job well done…👍🏼👍🏼 from this guy!
Hey guy, been watching your video's for years. They're some of the best I've ever seen and very helpful. Do you have any videos on gas welder rebuilds?
Ok. I'm trying to rebuild a miller 225 bobcat, 1974 model. The engine doesn't run. I'm trying to figure out whether to rebuild the motor or if the generator is messed up to so which one should I do first?
@@scottthompson6885 I'm pretty sure that's a stick welder. Oh, were you saying gas welder cause it runs off gasoline? I see. Well you'll have to get the motor going in order to test the generator and the gen set going to test the welder. Mustie does have some videos of fixing generators, but an engine is an engine regardless of what it's powering. Assessing the operability of one is the same process.
Thanks , yes I meant a portable gasoline operated welder, Miller bobcat 225 stick welder. Can the windings on the generator side be checked to make sure it's ok before I try and rebuild the engine that is my question?
I have replaced many a pressure washer pump in my day. Some models you cannot even find a replacement pump or the price of the pump costs more than the whole unit.
The foam on that air filter should have had a little bit of oil on it. Might have changed the way it turned out but who knows. There is a product today called 303 protectant that could have been sprayed on it that might have kept it from degrading along with any rubber parts. I don't know where you got the idea it's running lean, that is the perfect color for the spark plug
I was the owner of the pleasure washer and the generator shown in these two videos and there was a notice in the instructions not to put oil on the outer sponge filters. I was going to do that myself just as you suggested, but here's their reasoning. It was written that the oil after time could bleed off onto the inner paper filter which would restrict the air to the carburetor. Come to think of it, that makes sense. Hope you enjoyed the two videos, George, Danvers, MA.
Hi from uk mustie1 and good episode but at end is this crusty coming home? 💓 missed him on the channel he was always in the background hope he served museum well!👌 thanks for your time and be safe see you soon👍👋
They make 2 kinds of filters , the screen type is used with gravity feeds as in the old sediment bowls . The paper ones are made for use with pressure systems . I also think someone before you put the pump backwards because you need easy access to the black pressure adjustment valve .
Yeah you need to set an engine speed, as you use different types of nozzles you wouldn't be comfortable able to hold them otherwise. Those rotating ones for outdoor floors with a cap over them is an example. If you turn them to high you have to put a lot of weight on them and they will rotate so fast that the water sprays out on the sides :D
The plungers slide in and out of the packing. The packing glands are stuck to the plungers. The green and white "corrosion wouldn't have mattered. The important part of the pump head is where the high pressure seal "seals" against the head and it is the spot right about where you honed. Unfortunately I have to head to the shop and repair a bunch of washers this morning instead of finishing watching. I'll check it out later today when I get home. The valves alsojust pull out and are held in place by an oring. That is a Giant pump.If you decide you need parts.
It looked to me as though you could change that end to a more modern 4-5 tip system, 2000 psi Is low but also safe, High pressure does more damage than low pressure will, also I think that tip to the side low pressure would have picked up soap( mine picks up soap on low pressure tip and then bypasses on high pressure tip).
