The first 1,000 people to use the link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/diyaudioguy12221 Just to be 100% clear, the Down4Sound battery was used in tandem with the XS power battery. Those little batteries are intended to be add on batteries.
I just can't justify paying almost or over 500$bones for an agm battery. Unless it lasted at least 10 years. I'll just go with lithium. I have a regular wet cell for a starter battery. But have 2 45amp hour limitless lithium battery's for my system. They are isolated with a 300 amp isolator. Will probably go with one of those new fancy cap thingies to replace my starter battery. 🤔
In my un instrumented experience, the agms definitely help maintain a higher voltage than the flooded batteries. In my Honda/Acura vehicles they greatly reduce the headlight dimming that is inevitable with their computer controlled alternators. Walmart agms are the best bang for the buck since they come from the same manufacturer as some of the more expensive brands.
AGMS seem to have a higher resting voltage and charge faster which can help but as far as maintaining voltage goes ... its more dependant upon your amp hours. I do agree however that when I switched to my d4800 I noticed harder initial bass beats however it dropped just as fast as flooded but it rebounded faster. That being said.... you still need the amps from your alternator to recharge them and although additional batteries will help with dropping voltage it increases the amount of work for the alt to recharge more batteries. Thats where lithium cam in for me. It drops much slower and less deep but still outputs similar to agm in addition to being lighter and less work for the alt as you only need roughly 1/4 the ah in lithium that you would need with agm and flooded. Long story short is litium is the best but you need to make sure you get one that plays well with a stock 12v system and they are much more expensive.
I have two of the wal mart, large in size, deep cycle AGM marine batteries and a interstate AGM under the hood, a DC Power 320A H.O alternator as well. Seems to manage my Power Acoustic Razor 2500.1D amp from Walmart just fine. 😂 Jokin. Have an Orion3000.1D HCCASPLX amplifier, three runs of skyhigh XL 4/0 OFC Positive and ground
HELP I'm brand new to lithium and I have been gone for quite a while over 10 years and I'm trying to upgrade my system from 1800 Watt RMS to around 5-8000 depending on what I can get away with my problem is though my car (2019 Toyota Camry LE) can NOT take a HO alternator because of the ONBUS LINBUS electronics build which is where the cars computer is built in the alternator housing so I can ONLY upgrade my battery system and wiring the wiring is all 0 gauge, stock battery and 50 farad capacitor right now 0 voltage drop but I know once I start going bigger and adding lithium for a better bang I'm going to get voltage drop issues can anyone tell me what I can get away with running for long periods of time like how many watts rms on my stock alternator and if I add say a 96 AH headway bank should I add super caps or a AGM neither???? I'm literally knowledge less on the subject and really want to know how to make it work any advice would be appreciated Thanks
The d4s lto6.0 is one of if not the worst options in the lto game. It should not be charged above 14v at all. Companies running 5s lto and claiming usefulness above 14v are preying on the ignorance of the consumer. Lifepo4 in 4s is safe to 14.4v 14.6v with minimal degradation of cells. Above 14.6 you really should go with 6s lto.
@titoham-DCXLs the Titan8 batts are fine just rediculously overpriced. Toshiba scib 10ah cells are beast you just don't have a lot of reserve with 10ah and the scibs 20ah are also quite good. Where most people mess up is getting the s5 version over the s6
In 2016 I bought an XS Power D3100 AGM battery for my 5,000 watt system. I have to say it was a solid battery and did a great job. But a week ago I took out the XS Power battery and put in my new 60ah A123 lithium battery. The difference it has made is incredible!!! My music is louder now, my car is performing better, my voltage doesn't drop below 14 volts unless the car is off, and the lithium battery weighs 26 lbs. compared to the XS Power which weighed 80 lbs. AGM batteries are great but I'm a firm believer that lithium is the best.
You need to upgrade the alternator to be able to handle your vehicle and supply the system that you're trying to put in your car that's why you getting a bigger battery it'll help at first but when it runs out of juice it won't supply what the amplifier is calling for because the alternator is still too small I think people waste money when they don't understand that it's not a big deal to have a big reserve if the alternator can't charge up the reserve whether two batteries or one
Will your spot on. the factory alt is meant to supply what thy put in and charge the battery that's it!, no after market add ons. you want to up grade factory system , say better speaker's and CD cool at factory lvl. add amp + sub woofer add capps. inquire,search based on what you wan,t as your system.don't ask salesman for advice on your needs.
Very well put. The best way I explain it to the layperson is to imagine electricity like water your wires are the pipes, alt is the pump, & batteries are the reservoir
And just as important is being able to supplant current draw which involves the 'Big Three' upgrade. This will reduces resistance and minimize s heat production.
Lithium is the game changer. My XS D4900 would drop into 12 volt range with 3000w amp and 320 amp alternator. Upgraded to 45ah lithium and 5k amp. Never dropped below mid 13 volts. Recently upped to 7k, dropping 12s again. Upping to another 90 ah and 370 amp alternator. See how that goes ....
I find that most of the new high preforming battery are not worth the much higher price, but I did my testing for this about 15 years ago, I use the Walmart battery's and I like to match the ones that fit the vehicle, one next to the Amplifiers and the other in the stock location. When I was running a lot of power the trick is a great alternator or running a generator for car sound competitions but for me that was a long time ago
Even though I believe I won't be interested in going with higher power systems any time soon, I'm still interested in seeing what people do with higher echelon equipment and modifications. **I'm extremely pleased with what this single 12" JBL stadium subwoofer is adding to my system with my Pioneer D9705 5channel amp @ 2ohm in a sealed NVX enclosure. ****Please do me a favor and play "Love is Alive" by Gary Wright with the volume up and tell me what you think. 👍
You can actually upgrade your voltage Beyond 14.8 volts easily actually and like you said More Voltage less current which is why DIY lithium and higher voltage batteries are so popular
One of my goals with these power upgrade videos is to help people understand that they cannot throw a 3kw amp in their car and expect to work without upgrades. Hopefully this video proves that adding batteries will help but not as much as making the changes you are talking about.
@@DIYAudioGuy if I'm lucky I'll be getting a HO alt ahortly after January, and I know a local guy selling a 3kw rms sundown amp for only 160$ 🤤 I never thought I'd be so close to so much power/bass
I think the really cool thing here is that despite each battery performing basically the same, they are wildly different in terms of capacity and size. The walmart lead acid is around 150 AH, and weighs God knows how much. The xs power is 75 AH and weighs a little over 50 lbs. And the LTO battery is 8 AH and only weighs 4 lbs. And it still put out more power than the monstrous lead acid
Also, the Down4Sound battery was connected parallel to the XS power battery for the third test. This is how the battery was designed to be used, as a second battery in the trunk.
@@DIYAudioGuydo you have a video on how to connect the lithium or any other battery in parallel to the second battery? There’s hardly any videos on how to do it. I’ll donate if you post one.
I have the same Walmart MAXX Everstart battery. I bought it after watching a shootout where it beat most or all the competitors in most categories in the test.
I don't recall for the XS power, but the lithium batteries are only 6ha. Of course lithium has faster charge/discharge rates so it is not an apples to apples comparison.
I love this video! I have always wondered if buying one of those insanely expensive xs batteries would help me with some voltage drop on occasion but now I know it's not going to. I need to start saving my money and buy the high output alternator that I need to buy if I want to start cranking. I do not compete in bass competitions and I probably never will but I love Bass and I'm only running 1500 Watts RMS but when my clipping light starts flashing on my bass control knob and even a little bit before that, I start getting voltage drop even when I increase my idle to around 1500 RPMs. My stock alternator does a great job but it's only pushing 110 amps. I've gotten a bunch of quotes and the cheapest I've been able to find is $329 for a 260 amp from Apex alternators. Are you aware of anybody who builds high output alternators that are less expensive?
You are definitely pushing the limit of what you can do with a stock alternator. Unfortunately, when you start down the electrical upgrade path nothing is cheap.
@@chrisallen3671 I tried hunting down an alternator on Amazon a while back and there are a lot to choose from but the biggest problem I'm running into is my vehicle is a 2009 Hyundai sonata 2.4 l and I can't seem to find a less expensive one. It could be my car is getting old or possibly just foreign or less common. I live out in the country but I've contacted a lot of different places in the area and I can't seem to find anybody that actually builds them. Thanks though I appreciate it!
@@chrisallen3671 I did not seem to be able to find one through lactrical so I sent them a message. Hopefully they will have something available! Heck of a lot less money. Thanks for the tip!
Speaking to the end of the video you can buy a module dc to dc charger to separate your lithium bank from your lead acid starter in the front learned this from another DIY guy like yourself specializing in campers and off grid type electrical. I always wanted to pull the trigger on 1 of those $400+ batteries you put in the front but worried they won't last because of the insane charging rate a alternator puts out i have fried a few AGM batteries this way and keep in mind i kept them always above 50%. As always love your videos keep them coming!
In my first car I couldn't install anything bigger than a little group 35 battery so I ended up getting a giant group 49 battery and putting it in the trunk and using the existing 4awg power cable to feed the engine bay.
When I need to replace a battery I usually get the x2power AGM's from Batteries Plus. You can always find coupons and they're rebranded Northstars you can get at a lower price.
I have the 75A Powermaxx charger and an old Optima Yellow that I use in my shed for my setup. That battery has got to be pushing 9 years old. But, it's still holding up.
I would love to see you do the same test connecting the lead acid and Agm together to see what gain you get over a single under hood battery to test my decades long practice of adding an Agm inside as an auxiliary battery for the sub amps with a lead acid under hood.
Batteries alone don't make more power, batteries is to sustain the current flow to the amps together with a proper alternator. More power will derived from ohms load from the speakers which allows more power to be produced.
Yeah save your money and go lithium.. These batteries by xs power weigh a lot Compared to lithium's counterpart that's the main reason why I changed it up I used to have three of these batteries by xs power but To keep them might have to upgrade my suspension system and I wasn't about to do that so I went with them after three years of using those other batteries still have them if anyone needs them letting me know... The biggest issue is properly charging these batteries most new cars can't even AGM they don't charge properly you need to throw them on a charger every so often get a DC to DC charger for your vehicle
Xs discharge rate is the factor that sets it aside from the others. That being said lithium is the energy that’s pushing me w limits. BATTERY FIRES ARE DANGEROUS!!! Remember that.
I am experimenting with a flintstone cell. I find that adding pebbles to the electrolyte gives me more bam-bam. I guess in order to tackle bigger bass, we need to trout new lines...
OH L some body changed dry cell to AGM!! TO day i turn 69 yrs old 12/12/1953.My hay day was the 70'sYep we had dry cell bats . I rolled in a custom Van. Knew sine wave is white noise... never ran a sine wave to/till the point of clipping.(taxed the bat till it could not preform the task.) Know that max watt is not RMS . My rule of thumb is easy. AMP toots 5000 watts,divide by six is close to RMS .I used caps for thump,three from a split faze washings machine motor no less.Q: will a dry cell out preform a plane jane batt. Electron s = power and if both batteries contain the same count or near same. then is it not a question of witch one charges faster, or better yet the alternators performance?
@@donaldbritton.4134 ROTFL! A few microfarads rated at hundreds of volts! Brilliant! All joking aside: headroom can be gained, to a certain extent, with a few farads connected directly across the amp's power terminals. But with a loud, sustained bass note, headroom goes out the window, so the best bet here is the auxiliary battery near the amp. That way, the leads from the main/engine battery don't have to be so damned large in gauge, since the alternator charging losses are relatively negligible. But I like the idea of aviation cells. While you're at it, why not just put a gas turbine powered APU in the trunk, and be done with it?
I have an XSPower SB75 in my car & it will start the engine with no battery. Get one of those & don't worry about what battery might help. One of these can almost replace the battery.
I got 2 agm batteries under the hood and solar charging system with one small 50ah lipho battery under the seat. When the key is on all the systems combine. The purpose of the solar was to keep my fridge going during the day, and so I dont run the truck down. I never felt I needed more bass, and I have a JP8 and a skar evl 15 behind my head. I am sure it helps, cuz the lights dim less now.
Do you think its possible to connect mono amplifier to a 12v battle born. Is this feasible in a car audio application? Any feedback would be appreciated.
@diyaudioguy.. LTO does not have a lower charging voltage.. it’s actually one of the highest charging lithium’s. Those premade batterys run the cells in a 5s configuration which isn’t the proper way to run them. There proper way is 6s configuration and making the charging in the 15s and above. Its a misconception unfortunately from the big names making them that way, but can be dangerous over time and deplete the lithium itself way faster than it’s actual life span.
I'm kind of curious, why is it wrong to run five cells in series? My understanding is that when you connect cells in series the voltage sums. So the only difference should be the voltage.
Correct, but the individual cells are meant to charge at certain voltages to keep them within range.. A pristmatic LTO cell (found in all of these pre made lithiums) usually have a max charge rating of 2.8 volts per cell.. so in a 5 series configuration the max charge would be only 14 volts, but most cars and H/O alternators will easily charge at 14.4 - 14.8. Over charging lithium can hurt it and deplete life span, even worse with some chemistries, not so much LTO (luckily). So a 5s configuration bank will 90% of the time be overcharged, unless the user is charging under 14 volts which is very uncommon.
Okay yeah what i was expecting it doesnt make so much sense on low power it would be really intresting too try too pull something like 7kw out of that power to really see the dofference
Do you need lithium if you have a HO alternator and only listen when car is running? Especially if the volrage doesn't drop below 14v? In this case, is a lithium necessary?
Ive been watching your videos for awhile now, because you make things alot easier to understand, without extra nonsense that doesmt need to be jn there... Anyway. This is the first video that Ive seen your truck. Look very similar to my 2008 Dodge ram. Which since recently getting back into the car audio hobby. I've found to be hands down the worst possible vehicle for hiding a sub enclosure. Like under the back seat. Unless you just want a couple of 8s, theres not really enough air space for anything. I was curious if you had any suggestions. The onky thing ive come up with is to build a full custom center console sub enclosure. Id LIKE to put a 15in sub on there firing back, and I think I can squeeze it in there. The box I drew up on an app goves me around 3.5 cu ft. and theres about 18 inches between my seats. Just curious if you had any other suggestions
BEST TIP i can give people is just buy a generic Varta AGM battery biggest one you can put in your car AND put a 16V 500F Maxwell capacitor in the trunk….You can power a nice setup with a stock alternator without voltage drops…
Alternator 1st second battery with proper wire gauge and ofc cables 5500rms full tilt my voltage never drops below 13..9 volts.Alternator I found on eBay @230 1 yr no issue..
I have the alternator and big three installed, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MuksKiWpit0.html. I will probably need an external voltage regulator.
Hey I have a tuning question..I have two qbomb dual 15 boxes..2 american bass elites on each side... both ran on 8k total..I think their 38-40 in tuning separate, but what are they together?
This is the battery that I will be upgrading to here pretty soon. My Flooded Lead Acid hasn't been keeping up with my 2 12's even with a small auxillary AGM battery So Im hopping that D6500 Will solve my issues.
I had an XS power D3400 in my GF's Jeep for 7 years, and finally replaced it when I thought it had finally given up the ghost. It was going dead after like 2 days of not being driven. Turns out her 14 year old *amp* gave up the ghost and was staying on, drawing 650mA. So, it was probably still fine, but I used it as a core for her new battery. I've also found that AGMs seem to hold up better and reup faster than lead acid batteries.
Batteries don't make power, they store power. What you need is a high output alternator. The battery is a cheaper option, and sometimes they help. But not always.
@@DIYAudioGuy my factory altnernator is 150 amps and my amplifier only outputs 800 watts maximum. My headlights didn’t start doing this until recently. What should i do?
@@DIYAudioGuy I got the car in 2020 brand new. It’s a 2020 GTI but the battery and alternator are probably 1-2 years older than 2020. It starts just fine and cranks good so idk
can you make another video about decibels because i am currently making a build of 3 12inch subwoofers and it has a peak of about +10.9 db and i am not sure if is good to go above 0db.
How well, if possible will 3 ltos w/buss bars in the back pair with 1 xs power d4800 under the hood, excessive amperage 400a alt plus big 3 with 1/0 and 2 runs of 0 back to the amp. 2019 Ford Edge, sundown X18v3 D2 in a sundown prefab 7.0 cu with a salt-6
I think that should work just fine. The advantage to these batteries is that they pair well with your under hood battery. Personally, I think the 3000 w to 6000 w rating on these is a little bit on the high side. So I think getting three of them is the way to go.
@@DIYAudioGuy so with the three 6.0s, wiring them in parallel with the system is how that should be done? And then what about isolators? Wouldnt parallel result in the batteries mooching off each other while the car is off and hurt them after a while? Sorry for these ignorant questions, I'm still on the learning side
@@jaket6807 I don't use an isolator and have had my setup for well over a year with no issues. My truck is now a project vehicle and it sits 5 days out of the week. I have not had a problem with that. I also do not sit with the engine off playing music.
@@DIYAudioGuylast thing, I don't play it with music off either, never have... So then the car and everything just sitting overnight like normal without isolator or anything should be fine?
@@jaket6807 I've not had any problems. But, I'm not a battery expert. I would encourage you to ask a few more people and see what they say. Maybe consider reaching out to down for sound and see if they have any technical advice for you.
This is a interesting concept, tho I’m still trying to find a video that gives good scales as to what size battery is required for my 4500watt system. 120amp alt stock batt big 3 kit, all say need big battery but no one can explain how to get the right one with correct specs 😅 help please
I am still trying to work that out. It seems that the battery brands still just want to give a wattage specification and they don't include the discharge rate.
@@DIYAudioGuy 110% why get a 5000watt atm batt if I’m only short 1000 watts or so but that’s also a hard thing to pin point as only the lights on my amp dim down and under long load some safety thing in my car pops killing all power to both amps.
@@igamefordays9471 I always recommend starting with the alternator. Upgrade that and do a big 3. A lot of people aren't willing to go that route, for them I always recommended they just live with a smaller system.
@@DIYAudioGuy yea I’ve foreseen that coming, I’ve seen some cheap altnators on ebay (300-400) claiming to put out 300amps, if I could avoid that it would be nice. Still pretty new to car audio learned how to wire everything up and get it bumpin wasn’t thinking about my cars power suffering
Have 320 amp alternator. My agms would drop high 11volts. Switched to Lithium and never drop below 13.4 volts. Makes a difference. Only thing is 12k rated lithium (38 amp hour)+ 500 farad ultracap on only 5k amp and still drop to 13s.
I wish batteries (and everything else other than amplifiers) would stop providing wattage ratings. There are just to many variables to say that what size battery is needed. What we need to know are the amp hours and the C Rating. From there we can figure out the rest.
I have a stock alternator under the hood I have a full throttle 4800 AGM, isolator in between my d4s 6.0 lto and a d4s 500 farad cap to a JP23v1 pushing 2 10" Resilient Sounds gold series subs. Wattage doesn't drop below 13.5 - 13.1
Was that a hydraulic crimpers I seen I no they definitely come in handy when doing this wiring Job. Once you get the testing equipment needed theres let's say robot that you should get in touch with it would be helpful to a lot of people specially in Price if the amps he gets from overseas and is the same build house as the jp amp and iV seen salt clone amps 15k for 400$ early buy in sell he does some time it's hard to believe but at the same time I've heard him say if someone could test them fine would be a cycle of help 🤔👌👍✌️🍻💯🎶⚒️ have a great one till the next one
@@DIYAudioGuy they look like the harbor freight one you might want to try changing the oil and or adding just a little more or more heavy oil. should improve it. if there over crimping grind a little of each side of the die ends till there right. that should improves them. 👌🏽👍✌️🍻🎶💯⚒️
Hey DIY Audio Guy! I'm desperate and i hope u can help. I'm a semi truck driver and to keep this short. I have two small speakers and that aren't for music. I have to either listen to them buzz at me continuously every few seconds or unhook them as I've done. Problem is that unhooking them triggers fault codes with my semi. Is there anything i can use in place of a speaker to trick my rig into thinking the speakers are functioning? Tia
Back in the day (1980's and 1990's) that would have been the best option. But today's car audio batteries and super caps are designed to deliver a lot of power VERY fast. I have heard great things about this: lddy.no/1goh4 and this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-07UJMfVoS3o.html
@@DIYAudioGuy that'll be awesome. You got that cool teacher vibe, and it could make some cool educational videos! Plus once you learn, it's kinda cool running that much power on something you made. And it's legitimately fun, to me🤷♂️👍
Ive got a 600/750 CCA battery in my 98 suburban. Will a bigger 800/1000 CCA help with my lights dimming/volts drop??? Just put in a JP8 and my stock alt is 105.
Yes, but. As you can see in the video I still get the voltage drop. The batteries did let me squeeze out more power before that happened. So it will buy you a few more watts before your lights start to dim. I am shocked to learn that a suburban runs such a small battery.
@@DIYAudioGuy the 600cca battery is only a couple months old. Maybe, get another one for the driver's side and see if that helps? How about me getting an ultra cap??? Thanks for ur help.
If a lithium battery has a max discharge rate of 100A does wiring a number in parallel increase the maximum discharge rate or is the system limited to 100A? For example if you connect 4 12v 100ah lithium battery each with a built in 100A rated bms will you be able to pull 400A or are you limited to 100A?
Yes, when you wire in Parallel the voltage stays the same, but you double the capacity (Amp hours or Watt hours) and you also double the max amperage it can provide. Now if you wired two car batteries in series you would have 24v which is way too much for any automotive application. So you will never do that, unless you are building a lithium battery with individual cells.. but that a completely different animal than buying these pre made batteries.
@@lowriderbug yes no problem, If you go with Lithium instead of AGM, I recommend buying pre made LTO (Lithium Titanate) like D4S LTO 6.0 or XS Titan if you can afford it. There are some other chemistries, like Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP/Lifepo4) that is pretty safe, but not as safe as LTO. I figure if I am putting it in my vehicle I don’t want to mess around with potential fire hazards so I stick with AGM, or LTO since they are the two safest chemistries followed by LFP (also called Lithium Iron Phosphate or Lifepo4) Whatever you do, do not EVER use any lithium in your car that is not LTO or LFP/Lifepo4. There are a lot of old batteries on the market taken out of electric vehicles which are Li-on types and those are extremely volatile. Never put any lithium in your car that’s not LTO or LFP and you will be good. LTO is by far the safest but also the most expensive
@DIYaudioguy, I am running that jp 23 v2 myself on a stock alternator. It never dips under 13 volts. 1 wet battery under the hood 1 Walmart AGM in the back big three with 2/0 gauge and a Ioxis Ultracap. The ultra cap is what made the difference. It was $150 bucks at Big Jeff Audio. It's B-Stock but it works fine. My lights dont even dim at full tilt. There is a video over on my channel if you want to check it out. It's a great way to get that JP23v2 going without spending $600 on a HOA. Give me a shout if you wanna try this and need any help!
I started with the alternator. My plan is to try out several different combinations and document the results over the next few months. Eventually I'm going to end up with a battery delete, an external regulator for the alternator, and a big lithium bank.
@@DIYAudioGuy lithium is a great choice. Good job on the AGM vs Wet Cell. Those high priced AGM batteries or way overhyped. I am putting together a video as well comparing many different power sources as well as Graphite. I hope it is as good as your videos are. You will love that JP23v2 i know there is louder but its hard to imagine. I set off two car alarms yesterday lol
@@RealPivotTV If you're looking for HOA suggestions, look into "autotech engineering usa". They may not have the brand recognition/"street cred" as others on the market, but they're deserving of it... I mean, shop around and make your purchases based on what best suits you and your budget, but I'd like to think that's at least an option you might not have known about. ✌🏻
It is actually the opposite.. the lower voltage is what caused the amplifier to clip... the lower voltage will mean your amplifiers power supply rail voltage has lowered.. the definition of clipping is when the amplifiers output voltage exceeds the rail voltage of the amplifiers power supply section, and as a result "clipping" off the top and bottom of the sine wave... when your amplifiers input voltage drops it causes you to clip at lower power outputs since your amplifiers rail voltage goes up and down according to the input voltage it receives from your vehicles charging system.. the only exception is with heavily regulated amplifiers like the JL Audio HD series.. but in this case it must draw more current to make up for the lower voltage so you are not getting any free power... you are just drawing more current to make up for the lower voltage which can present issues itself. A strong charging system (good lithium or AGM and good alternator) and a traditional unregulated class D amplifier (Like most amps including the JP series) is the best bet for a reliable system in my experience...
@@gregkirby I would look in to figuring out why a stock Camry electrical system should have no issues with a 1000 RMS class d . It is kinda difficult to get a good ground in them if you not done them before . I had a 2001 Camry in shop in August took me 4 tries to get a good ground in the trunk I ended up going under the rear seat below the seat belt buckle bolt and then a ground wire from the firewall to the negative in the battery 1600rms now no dimming at all
@@gregkirby no put the ground wire for the amp under the rear seat then ran a body ground under the hood to the battery like you for the big 3 upgrade but there no reason to do the power wire on the altinator with stock altinator. I just did the grounds
I have 2 xs lower d3400 batteries running 5k watts rms on a stock alternator. Even on full tilt voltage only drops to 13.3. I plan I upgrading the alternator soon though
For your truck, I suggest one of the Superstar Platinum AGMs. They are O'Reilley's in house battery. I picked up a group 34 for my mustang and with a little battery tray "modifications", I got it to fit in there. I used some illconcepts 6 point terminal block. Completely got rid of my headlights dimming, and I could turn it up more without the amp clipping where as previously it would start clipping much sooner. All with a 2g big three upgrade and stock 100ish amp alternator. Now I've really upgraded check out my channel for the full setup Also, I recommend taking a wire brush to your terminals, and the distro block. Will fit a lot better and won't slip off
I think you are right. AGM still seems the way to go because they are compatible with your stock electrical. If you want to go lithium you need to do a battery delete. I am not sure that XS power is worth the extra money.
@@DIYAudioGuy for sure. If you are running a 1000 watt system, an AGM and 4 gauge big three and you should be set as long as you watch voltage and don't let it get low
i bought a powermax supply.. i was wondering, can one run an amp from a battery, while using the powermax to charge battery, simultaniously?? i havnt used it yet... thanks for any advice...
