XSY-AT1 VFD & 3 Phase Motor Bench Test Review Mini Lathe & Myford.. 

Hi Grahame Thanks, Just check out the above comments, as I had a couple of things configured wrong which I had to alter. When I do the next video I will mention this. I have just finished putting everything on the lathe now and its all back running.... I am totally impressed with it. Regards Steve

Hi Yes I hope to do this at some point. I'm thinking about whether it will be an advantage though, as the top speed on the ML7 is only meant to go up to about 1170RPM for the bearing type.

Hi Thanks....Was it easy to connect all of these? Regards Steve

Steve Jordan Hi Steve, yes, very easy, it was described in the VFD manual. I have HuanYang 1.5kW and it has I believe 6 freely programmable button inputs where you cann connect a simple push button to each and connect them all to ground. Then you program the VFD for each of the buttons with one of the available functions, e.g. forward, reverse and stop (but thre are more, e.g. preselects for given rpm etc.) ie you define a param in the firmware specifying which function to execute when the button is pressed. The potentiometer is just wired with 0 and 10V and the middle contact which are 3 dedicated connections on the VFD. It should be similiar for your VFD as they are all quite alike. Take care. Steffen

Hi Steffen, What about an emergency stop button?

Hi Steve, I have not wired an emergency button, however, the parameter list for the multi-input offers both a normal stop function and emergency stop, so I could add another button for an emergency stop. Or, I could just put another button parallel to the existing stop button (wired OR) and use a more prominent aka RED button housing for that one. One could even put a "do not press this button" notice up (Terry Pratchet..) However, for real emergency stop (that stops the machine rather quickly) one needs a serious amps braking resistor to convert the kinetic energy of the machine into heat, I believe, and these are quite bulky and expensive, used on big milling machines and such. Besides active braking, one could program if the motor coast to stop or is decelerated by the VFD and the ramp times for start and stop functions, so with changing those parameters one can decelerate faster if so required.

Hi Laurent My lathe already has a potentiometer for now, a separate unit that I fitted some time ago, but I do hope to add one plus the forward/reverse switch to the VFD and lathe at some point. Regards Steve

Hi Laurent, Yes mine has the connection block for external control. I have a few wiring diagrams for this block in the instructions, but it will take me a while to work it all out. Unless I find a video showing this...

I recently picked up a vfd from that same at series and unfortunately it came with no documentation... Any idea where I can get a copy of the manual or barring that, what's the function number that will switch control from the panel to the external terminals so I can wire up external start/stop switches? Thanks!

Hi Thanks www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-PHASE-ELECTRIC-MOTOR-0-37KW-TO-11KW-1400RPM-2800RPM-2-POLE-4-POLE-ALUMINIUM/191770300135?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=490794456079&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

No this would require a proper servo drive and an encoder for positioning feed back.

Hi Vladimir Thanks, Yes it would be great. I hope to do the same set-up on my Myford ML7 at a later date. Regards Steve

Thats right. The cooling of most cheap motors is not enough if ran at low rpm. You could mount an external powerd fan.

I came here to say the same.

@Christian Wolf my guess is that in the box is a 3 contact switch, and he wired phase neutral and earth on the switch, thus disconnecting chassis ground from the earth when the switch is off

@@nicolaspillot5789 That might be true but is definitively a security issue! There should be no need to break the GND line. What happens if the switch (only on GND) fails? Or it connects slightly after the mains line. You have a metal case, do not think too much of it and have contact with it while turing on. This will fry you in just the moment between connection of mains line and GND connection (which will trigger the fuse in this case just too late). At least in Germany you ALWAYS bypass the PE aka GND by any switches.

Without a rotary phase converter you lose 1/3 of the power from the motor with a VFD like this. Thats why when you buy a rotary phase converter you get it with 1.5 - 2 times the HP of the motor you are running.

It is possible that your motor is configured for Y connection (400V) and the VFD outputs 230V so it needs Delta connection.

Hi I bought mine on Ebay the new 1HP 3 phase are about £98 post free. It pays off over time as they cost less to run, so I've heard

still looking for a 3 phase motor?

Hi Bill if you go on my RU-vid community page tab and scroll down you will see a PDF file with the instructions you can download or copy. Regards Steve

Sorry, I don't know about that. Maybe someone else does.

Hi Steve, No that was my mistake...I have altered that now to be continuous...Regards Steve

Hi Pete, Thanks....no, it all seems to be ok with no interference...Regards Steve

Hi Ron Thanks the torque is excellent.

Hi Victor. I don't know how to set the default settings. It maybe in the instructions. There is a copy of those in PDF form on my RU-vid community page.

Hi John, If you click on my RU-vid community page tab and scroll down you will find a PDF file with the inverter instructions. It may not be in page order but it's all there. Regards Steve

Hi Samu, The torque seems to be ok on mine but I don't push it too hard with very low speeds and large drills, anything over 1". I have my lathe set so that the belts will slip if anything were to crash, or if a drill became too blunt though. I notice the RPM slowing a bit sometimes on the display but nothing that would concern me.

OK thanks Steve. It could also be due to my motor. I don't understand much about these things. My motor is a two speed motor, and who knows it that affects the torque somehow. @@SteveJordan

Hi Carl, Thanks....I hope to show this in coming videos.

just saw the other video...what an idiot I am you explained everything great...

Hi It was my mistake in the first video.....Thanks for watching

Likely delta connection for 230/400V motor

my AT1 does have current limit option. It doesnt limit the current per say, but it trips over current if it goes over what you input.

84Prerunner Which parameter limits the current? I'm having difficulty understanding some of the Chinese English. I've connected my AT4 up to a 380 volt star configured motor (only 1/2hp). Only parameters I changed were from 60hz to 50hz and motor rpm to 1425. Motor seems to run OK but don't know whether it has full power as currently just testing on bench.

Andrew Firman P78 through P85 are all over current settings. P24 is allowed time for over current

84Prerunner Thanks. The default values seem somewhat arbitrary - I’ll play around with some of those and see what happens.

The Torque settings are on (P70 & P72 Torque compensation). (P71 Torque compensation voltage).

Yeah I know where my settings are at, there's just no information on how to correctly use them. Trial and error is all I got...

I made a mistake on that, and corrected it later in a follow-up comment.

@@SteveJordan Ok. Thanks. There is an AT-4 description in the manual which added to the confusion, but I have worked out it must have meant to say AT-3

Hi I changed that soon after making the video. I updated it in the following one. Regards Steve

I changed that to continuous already...Regards Steve

Hello sir. Did you find a solution on how to reset to factory settings? Thank you in advance.

Error code one is possibly triggered because your 3 phase motor is in the Star or “Wye” configuration and if you’re trying to start it at say, 60Hz, you won’t have enough starting torque and you’ll get a current spike. So this error code is protecting your device. Press reset, or unplug and reset, and then turn the frequency dial to Zero, start the process again, with your motor switched on, and slowly increase the frequency. If your motor is in delta configuration you’ll be fine.

I didn't need to on this one as the VFD is directly above the Myford lathe and near. I did wire up forward and reverse etc on my Chinese Mini Lathe VFD though.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-PHASE-ELECTRIC-MOTOR-0-09KW-TO-11KW-1400RPM-2800RPM-THREE-PHASE-MOTORS-400V/192580042652?hash=item2cd6aa3f9c:m:m8NAG17pMR2cqvXc-dUilvw

Hi Bruno.....Yes you can.

Yes I'm I have just ordered one.

Steve Jordan Very nice. When you just hook it up, let as know how it works.... 😁

What connections are needed for the estop and do you have a link to the one you have ordered?

Hi yes that is exactly what this model is designed for which is great for us in the UK.

Hi I just bought a 3 phase extension lead and cut some off that. It was the cheapest way at the time. Have you searched eBay?

@@SteveJordanits 3HP, 3ph, 2850rpm and its running current is 5A

Hi Phillip, The AT1 VFDs parameters for torque are p71/p72/p73. Most people though make the mistake that you can alter these and get 'very high torque' which usually isn't possible. An acceptable torque should first be attained by using the correct sizes pulleys Ie..You should have A very large one on the main spindle drive, (mine is around 6.7" in diameter). You can see this in my next video. The VFD's parameter settings won't compensate if you have the pulley configuration wrong as the parameters are only for small adjustments.

Thanks for the reply, I very much appreciate it. For P71-Action time of TIMER. P72-Simple PLC auto-operating option and P73-The first period time set of auto-operating. I was expecting to be able to increase the current output in some way. Any thoughts? I do totally agree with the larger pulley idea however I have the largest I can fit and I have only managed about 3:1. This aside I have a 2.2kW inverter driving a 2kW 3 phase motor and I can stop the pillar drill chuck with a gloved hand. I feel that it is so underpowered that there is some parameter I have not set correctly.

Hi Thanks....It an Electro Tech 3 phase 1HP (1400 RPM) motor with B3 foot mount. You can get them on Ebay. eBay item number:192580042652 Regards Steve

@@SteveJordan thanks

As far as I know you can have more Kw than required but not less than required.

Hmmm I’ve been looking for that information as I have a 2.2kw VFD. ( same as yours ) but as I’d not found any information that testified as to your belief. I was therefore reluctant to try the 2.2kw VFD WITH MY 0.75kw Motor. Am I correct in thinking that there is no information that I’ve noticed in the attached user information regarding “inserting motor Dataplate information “ into the parameters ?

@@cherhanamiya1 I'm running the Tec .75kw 1hp motor (4 pole) with a 2.2 vfd, gives the option of a bigger motor later on, less stress on the components too, I've had no problems.

B Smith Perhaps you could elaborate, and confirm, as I suspect, that I've made a big mistake. I'm in Canada and I just bought a low cost VFD from a US supplier. It's a GS2 11P0 from Automation Direct (if you care to look it up). I discovered very quickly that I cannot run the motor at the speed I would use for single-point threading. With the gear reduction in my lathe (Sieg SC4) that's about 3Hz. Without adjusting the torque-boost or slip- compensation I can stop the chuck from spinning with my finger. If I adjust either of those setting it makes it hard to stop the chuck, but the VFD quickly overloads and shuts down. So, have a made a huge mistake? Many thanks, if you respond to this! Desperate for help here. The vendor hasn't been terribly helpful or reassuring to this point.

Well I haven't had any problems with the low cost Chinese VFD's. They run my motors perfectly at all speeds with excellent torque.

Limitations of non-vector VFD's is well characterized and documented in motor drive theory. It is important to understand performance differences between various drive methodologies prior to application. You may get lucky and experience reasonable performance; depending on your system and expectations. However you may also end up with system supplying insufficient torque at desired speed, or overheating, etc. Closed-loop motor drive systems incorporate multiple feedback elements and calibrate drive electrical parameters to properly match system variants. Vector drives can adapt and perform optimally over wide variations in application parameters (speed, load, temperature, motor parameter variants, and dynamic variances). This is why true vector-drives are more expensive. Chinese VFD's are also built with $15.00 assembly budget; you will find internal components at below minimal standard for AC high-voltage applications. Forget about UL or CE certifications; these stamps are counterfeited routinely on imported equipment. Try requesting certification certificate from manufacturer, or even identifying actual manufacturer for most Chinese brands.

Steve Jordan Thank you for replying. All of the RU-vid vids I've seen seem to be very much like yours; no problems, no issues. That's what I was expecting as well. That wasn't my experience. I'm a bit lost now.

B Smith I was aware that these things have limitations, but following the lead of Steve, AvE and several others I wasn't expecting to encounter them (whatever they are). There has to be something won't with either the drive or the second hand motor I'm using.

Hi I bought this new on Ebay. There's loads of different sellers. I went for one where in the description it was said they are suitable for use with VFD's.

I will do a PDF copy and put it on my RU-vid Community page later if I get time.

I haven't looked into that as I gained very high torque with the pulley sizes I chose.

Hi Michael....Well thank you very much! It is a dual voltage motor and I have just changed the links around. This is my first experience with 3 phase equipment. The actual instructions that came with the VFD doesn't show the product listing photo/diagram, where it shows the actual motor link configuration. When I bought the motor it came as set as in the video and I wrongly presumed that it was correct. This is why I overlooked this. Thank you so much for pointing this out....Regards Steve

Hi Steve Your welcome. One other thing I meant to comment on, it appeared that the isolator needed to be on for earth continuity, this is wrong, here in the UK no switches are allowed in earthing wires as they can go open circuit leaving the metal work unprotected. Michael

Ok thanks... I will change that as well......Regards Steve

Hi Michael, Do you know if is ok to connect a 3 phase emergency stop button between the VFD output to the motor?

Steve Jordan No need to do it that way, and not recommended as inverters don't like to see open circuit on there output terminals, as this causes large surges (voltage spikes from the collapsing magnetic fields) which can blow the electronics. I'm pretty sure you'll find that you can simply remove a link from the control side of inverter to fit the emergency stop, which would be in the low voltage control circuit. This wiring should be kept separate from any other wiring. Best read the manual first though, I would like a copy of it, as I will probably be doing the same job some time, then I could read through as well, 2 heads always better than 1 Michael

You could but it would be best to put an earth wire from the motor housing I think although I only know basic electronics.

Hi I changed it to Delta.

Steve Jordan ok thanks, I’ve got exactly the same setup except I think my motor is a bit bigger 2.2kw I’ve configured mine in star and delta and doesn’t seem to make any difference, I was just wondering if it matters or shortens the life of the vfd?

Or motor

@@tribal165 Use Delta, VFD prefers it and I ead somewhere that the motor should be in the delta config, I think it's in the instructions for the motor too.