My MSI 2060super GamingX has been running with 105c hot spot temperature for 3 years and i thought it was normal! (i bought it brand new) I re-applied the thermal paste and now it maxes out at 85c. Thank you!
The 3090 was a really good card only for one issue, I really really hate the fact that the card has VRAM on the back side. We know how hot the GDDR6X can get, I assume that the back side Chips may end up degrading faster than the ones on the front. Till then only time will tell. Good video as always.
While you are totally right, in case anyone does not know that fact has an actual technical reason behind. Highest density GDDR6X chips from when the 3090 released (late 2020) were “only” 8Gbit (1GiB). That means that 24 chips must be placed on the card in order to reach that 24GiB. The only physically posible way to do that with decent distance to the core and no signal integrity issues is using both sides of the PCB. When 3090Ti launched that was no longer a problem, because 2GiB chips existed and they just used them. It is a pity that card launched so late and so overpriced, for me is like the proper way to do a flagship card.
Thanks for this video. I recently bought this card used and I was wondering why my card was so hot and realized the thermal paste was dried out/the factory didn't put on enough. I also repadded all the memory chips and now the card runs great.
I have the 3080 Ti Trinity OC and it looks exactly like this card. No issues overheating, yet, but I don't doubt that with the low quality thermal pads and paste in these cards that it won't eventually start.
Some times with age the paste can push it's way out, granted that card isn't nearly old enough. From past experience it typically takes 3-4 years for it too happen. I've had this very same thing happen to me a few times in the past, I think over tightening the screws can cause the board, and silicon to bow. Putting to much pressure on the sides, along with many years worth of heat cycling expanding, and contracting just pushing the thermal paste out. I've always taken my time to spread thermal paste on GPU's just to be certain I have 100% coverage, and I still see that mirror like finish on the cooler, and silicon die from time to time. Paste was there at one point, but I really do think too much pressure, along with many heat cycles causes this to happen on the corners. Even after I started to manually spread (originally assumed poor spread) it still happens. I replaced the thermal paste on my old 980ti a few days back, same thing on the corners, and I know for a fact I was the last one to previously open it. Cleaned it around Christmas in 2018.
That's called pump out. High temps/heat load + high mounting pressure + watery paste usually results in pump out. It's common on high-end GPUs as well as laptops. Usually using a thicker paste like Gelid GC Extreme or SYY 157 (Thermalright TFX clone) helps prevent this.
I just bought this very model of 3090 and was freaking out over 105 degrees C temps no matter what options I changed for voltage, fans etc. Thanks to your re-pasting directions, the temperatures are now -25 degrees C at around 80 for the hotspot after much testing/verification.
Considering EVGA is no longer in the GPU-making business anymore, the choice isn't really ours if we go EVGA or another AIB, unless we wish to buy secondhand.
@northwestrepair Thanks for your video. I've got the exact GPU, it runs hot and overheats in MSFS 2020. Can you share with us what dermal pads/tape you used? They seem to come in varying thicknesses.
I got lucky, my Zotac 3090 oc did arrived with Bad pads, I changed them, getting great temps and that's from 03/2021. Better then my evga and asus. huh Great video man OH, would u be willing to give me the thickness of pads for evga 3090 ftw3 ultra. Thx
Hey man, I love your videos. It gives me great insight about the component of video cards in general. By the way, any reason why many of these high end gpu coil whine so hard when fps in a game is so high?
@@northwestrepair Thanks for the prompt answer! I just bought a 6750xt from Asus, the coil whine so hard at times, it feels like a mini helicopter taking off LOL.
What do you think of the 3090 having its memory on the back? Do you think buying a used one is risky, since there's a good chance it was used for mining?
I honestly dont think it matters if card was used for mining or not. 3090 Ti with 24GB memory runs hot. I would not buy one for my self but i would get 3080Ti with 12GB instead. Mining needs 8GB so any card can mine.
@@northwestrepair I am very reluctant to buy the 3090 cards used which run extremely hot on the VRAM due to having chips on both sides of the PCB - didn't think the Ti cards were so bad with chips on one side of the PCB. I've also heard some of the 3090s had corners cut as well in some cases with VRM setup to keep margins high too
I traded my 3080ti up for a 3090 that was used for mining a few weeks ago, its the 2nd time ive bought a used minning card (prev was a 1070ti back in the day), and honestly i kinda prefer mined 2nd cards, theyve had time to stretch their legs, most miners run them to be as efficient as poosible as well. Ive found also that when ive o'c vs friends stocks card oc's mine are always more stable, the only down side is warranty, but i usually sell up and upgrade every 2 years. food for thought :).
If I want to change the paste in this card ( I have the same one ) then I lose the warranty or how does it work? I heard that supposedly some manufacturers don't mind. If the answer to this question is yes! then is it also possible to change the thermopads? On the hot spot I had a maximum of 108℃, on the memories 102 in furmark. In games I'm holding at 95℃ hot spot and 90℃ memory.
I got an exact same card which overheated to 105C, I took it apart and cleaned it up, reapplied thermal paste and replaced thermal padding. Thing is, hot spot temps have decreased by -10C but unfortunately memory junction temperatures are going through the roof. I don't know which chip it is physically on the board that's causing this problem. I did have to stack all thermal pads at least once to make up for the size of the previous ones. I didn't know the size beforehand so I picked 1mm ones to replace them with so I could stack them if they're bigger and on the ZOTAC they're all 2mm thick. Any help?
hello i need a little bit help here ! i was trying to put the bios update or its vbios i dont know the differents between but when i run this application from the zotac downloads for the 3090 oc trinity i got something like the preformance getting worster than before i see in your video in the middle you say something about stock bios can you please explaine how i can do the same for my 3090 thanks alot :)
Nice analysis. I have a 3080 Amp Holo. The temp was horrible so I installed a water block to it and the temps were amazing. However as I wanted to upgrade and use back the stock cooler, all 3 fans stopped spinning. Everything else are working fine. Any idea which area could be faulty? Trying to fix it myself if it is simple
Mine in nr200p doesnt over heat. Vram at 86C max. Soc at 74 max at 390w. Here is how. 3cm height 3d printied case feeting for nr200p. 15mm arctic p12 slim fans under the case. Magnetic dust filter on the bottom in the case. Dont use 25mm fans they worsen cooling. I did machined copper mod on the back side with PUTTY never use thermal paste on vrams. It causes cold soldering I use ptm 7950 on soc. I changed pads on soc side vrams. And i use hr 10 thermalright ssd cooler on the backplate. That cools 6c
Normally, it would be more of an obvious choice between EVGA and Zotac, at least up to the 30 series cards from Nvidia. What becomes of us consumers now that EVGA has decided to drop out of the game altogether? The only EVGA 40 series cards produced were engineering samples and they looked and performed predictably well but are forever just hints of what would have been.
That combined with airflow focused fans create an noisy undercooled card. The last good Zotac card was the 1080Ti Amp Extreme. After Pascal Zotac fall in a hole and only created function follows design cards which results in extremly airflow restricted hotboxes. The cooler itself is good but with all the plastic shit covering the fins the cooler has no chance to work properly.
Denser fins means that the dust is adding up faster. I have experienced coolers with less dense fins and all of them barely catch any dust (most probably the metal alloy plating of the fins has a say in this too)
Personally, I always spread the thermal paste so it completely covers the chip. It's the only way to guarantee full coverage before putting the parts back together.
And if you create a valley in the middle, then you can end up with an air bubble and have a dry spot. You cannot make perfectly flat application nor can you lower the heatsink perfectly parallel to the core when you assemble it. Hens the x patter. X works well for this size chip. Half the size chip can have a center drop.
@@northwestrepair bruh, There are many ways to apply the thermal paste, and spreading it out is one of them, and it won't cause air bubbles or a dry spot, just like Der8auer and Gamers Nexus said in their video titled "Der8auer Deep-Dives on Thermal Paste: Misconceptions, Curing, & More". If it was me I would apply a generous amount of thermal paste and spread it out and maybe add some more at the heatsink area, the thermal paste is going to squeeze out under pressure anyway, and the pump-out effect is going to squeeze it even more. If I'm almost out of paste I will use the X pattern and it probably works just fine. so the point is "the spreading it out" way exists for paranoid people like me who think any pattern method is not enough.
@@blobhead7 It really depends on the heatsink mounting pressure and method as that will directly affect how the paste spreads. for instance, i got a new laptop for my daughter for christmas and i re-did the paste on it like 4 times. i did the spread method the first 3 times while also applying a thin layer to the heatsink. but after just one attempt with the x-method on the CPU and the line-method on the GPU (because it was a long-boi and not really worth doing the x) i had way better temps than i did with spread. also the viscocity of your thermal paste matters. for me i was using arctic's new MX-6 and with that paste being so thick, it was getting "whipped" as i worked it while spreading it and it likely all contributed to air pockets that were causing cooling inefficiency as compared to when i did the x and line methods. so while it may not mater when you're putting paste on a heatspreader like you would on a desktop CPU and that paste is being spread by a ton of pressure, it may matter more when you're either working directly on a die (like on laptops) or if you're dealing with the relatively low mounting pressure of a graphics card or also the low mounting pressure of laptop heatsinks.
@@blobhead7 I use thick viscous paste (Shin-etsu X23-7921-5) on direct-die applications and spread it, i used to think it creates air bubbles but this is a myth, applying pressure like a firm handshake on the cooler after the repaste pushes excess paste + air out, otherwise the sturdy paste layer remains too thick due to low contact pressure. Easy paste like mx4 or kryonaut is crap on direct-die devices combined with modern age high turbo speeds + temperature, it only lasts for a short amount of time unless the heatsink+gpu is perfectly flat with good contact pressure. Then it lasts a little while longer. I switched to the Honeywell PTM7950 sheet for high-end direct-die devices (High-end (gaming) laptops, gpu's, consoles) because it resists the pump out issue and has exceptional performance.
I almost spat out my water all over my computer after you played that "she belongs to the streets" meme What are you trying to do, get me to send you my computer next!??
i need help if u didnt have isuess .. i had a same 3090 oc trinty u do this test for it but when i do stresss test on furmark it just 990 hz not 1900 i dont know what is oroplem so if u could tell me ty
The new MX-6 should last a lot longer on gpu's due to it's higher viscosity. (Uninformed people are already throwing their newly arrived mx-6 in the bin combined with 1star review"saying it is difficult to spread crap" My favorite paste SYY-157 changed to basic easy paste due to those assholes) Low viscosity paste gives good initial temperatures but usually don't last very well on modern age 80°c+ direct-die temperatures. IHS low viscosity paste, direct-die high viscosity paste.
@northwestrepair I have one of these Zotac 3090 that is stuck at the base clock of 210mhz and wont go up. is there any hardware issue that could cause this? im planning to flash bios as next trouble shoot.
Wait so a higher junction temperature can come from bad thermal paste on the gpu? I got a 5700XT and I recently realized that the the junction temp is 105 while the GPU sits at 71 under load
(HELP) I have this card and Ive recently been getting a black screen that says display no signal, but my pc stays on and the only way it fixes is by turning it off and waiting a while to get the display back and that’s not always guaranteed. When I start it up, sometimes the rgb light on the card will stay off. I only get the black screen when trying to play games. I can run youtube and Spotify and google but even then will crash less times than the games. The games are pretty much a couple minutes running if not instant. I’ve tried many things such as switching to hdmi and even using different displays but they all still get the black screen. Also everything is pretty much new and nothing is physically broken. No dust. Power is good. Connections and cords are good. All my drivers and windows update and everything is up to date. I’m not sure what to tell what the problem is anymore. I’ve run out of options. Can anyone help me please. My pc specs are: Windows 11 i9 11900k GeForce RTX 3090 32 GB Ram 2TB SSD 850v power supply Water cooled Has 7 cooling fans Msi motherboard
Sad is that we as a customers dnt have a choice,cause all of them making shit cooling systems on their video card,the only way is to install watercooling block
my gpu temp is max 72c but hotspot is 91c i tried repasting it didnt help i tried again the coverage was good but still 20c difference what could be the reason i have a zotac rtx 2060 6gb twin fan
@@northwestrepair but the card is new it has stock pads i suspect the heatsink is crooked i feel like its not straight like it has a slight bend already contaced zotac they say if the card is working fine these temps are normal and well under safe limits well i hope it is as the card has extended warrenty on it
@@northwestrepair Oh it was not any insult! I mean someone who has money for a 3090 but does not apply new thermal paste after opening it. This person has more money than sense
Little criticism from me. Somehow I have ended up at your channel and I keep watching your content but for customer's sake please stop using arctic paste on GPU's. They tend to "boil" and run out from the core, leaving empty spots afer short period of time. I have tested MX-2, MX-4, MX-5, same results after approx 3-6 months. I wouldn't write this comment but I have exprienced this issue on many tubes myself with some customer complaints so I started digging and testing on my own GPU which I heavily use every day. I also discussed this issue on the forums I use and I have received same feedback. Arctic pastes perform good on CPU's no problem there even after longer time but on GPUs they just "run out" from GPU core which is visible after dismantling cooling. My recommendations are: CM Mastergel V2, CM IC-E1(if you want to go cheap per performance), Gelid extreme. Thermal grizzly Kryounaut and extreme version for even better results. There are problably some more comparable pastes but those I have used personally and they perform good on GPU. Just my objective criticism, no offense there.
@@northwestrepair I did buy buy directly from official buisness supplier for my country, no way. Those were not ebay tubes, and those big tubes weren't inexpensive either. Have it your way.
He is correct about mx4. It is not great for direct die cooling on both cpu and gpu. It tends to pump out rather fast in less than a year. It will still be probably fine but not great. Mx2 is okay since its thicker and has a bit better performance on direct die cooling.
@@mariotosic768 I have exagerated a little bit for MX-2 but for MX-5 even arctic made official statement that formula is bad and they won't make it anymore, replaced by MX-6. Look, this is just my objective criticism, I have 10+ years long career in building PCs, selling them and servicing them + printers and I try to do my job job right and in the best way for the customer. I have noticed problem with MX-4 which I do have DIRECTLY from official supplier, not ebay and I get invoice for that, for each tube I order. I started noticing this problem in direct die application on higher end configs back in the 2017 and that was the year I stopped using this paste for this particular applications. I am not trying to force author to switch paste. It's in his will what he will use. I can just share problem I have noticed. What will author do? His choice.
@@MrHimer12 You are correct, and your advice is quite valid. Many people like to use mx4 since its the cheapest known brand along with cooler masters cheap pastes. Doesn't mean the paste is great for everything. It has its uses and when used accordingly its good. Anyways I like all of his videos the guy really knows his stuff and works wonders with electronics and he seems genuine and down to earth.
