Hello my name is John, I make videos over a range of things including retro gaming, console comparisons, and some car related content. I am a collector of all kinds of electronics but mostly centered around childhood consoles and portable gaming consoles for those retro games.
No, I get to keep both. Nice that it includes the front face plate. Shouldn't be too hard to do. Your mileage may vary but contact Anbernic support and see what options they offer if you have screen issues. This should be isolated to early units only.
www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU This is what I used. I have had it a while. Still around 10 bucks. You will need a USB C to USB A adapter comes with cellphones sometimes. Works out the box with Rocknix OS I recommend using that for the V10 over ARKOS that it ships with.
Thanks for this, you're the only reviewer I've seen that tested/played Pokemon on the V10 and you have the same device colour variation as me :) You're using JelOS?
Rocknix it is a maintained jelos fork. It's my current favorite over arkos as the arkos dev has some issue with powkiddy for some reason so i rather just use rocknix. Ive had issues with arkos nuking itself after so long of use anyway. Get yourself a little tplink wifi dongle and you can enable trading between devices as well. The v10 is a great little device. Based off the rgb20 and rgb10 series of devices.
Mine came with Arkos Installed but it has not had updates since march of 23 or something. This device can run any RK3326 Firmware out there. Just deleted the card and put on The latest ROCKNIX-RK3326.aarch64-20240702.img.gz from their page. github.com/ROCKNIX/distribution/releases Hope you just bought the 64gb model not a fan of the roms included in any of these consoles.
The Screen looks great, Gets plenty bright and nice and dim. With Rocknix installed there is 10 different levels of brightness. It does have a lower resolution, but it is 2X Integer scaled for GBA at Fullscreen unlike the RG35xx series. Check out my latest video I compare the RG35xxsp to it for a little bit The V10 is a better Gameboy. I sort of collect these things so let me know if you have a question about it compared to the RG series or others might have it. Way more affordable vs a real GBA.
www.amazon.com/dp/B081ZRL9CY Here you go This is what I bought. Used the 1mm in this video. You will have enough space to pick and choose. Just use some double-sided tape to stick it to the back to help hold it in place.
Yeah it is a great choice for an all around device up to n64 and ps1. I personally think the 1:1 screen is the best or both worlds plays snes gba and gbc without weird pixels or a distorted image.
You have any idea what is compatible? I just put the SD into my Original RGB20 and synced everything that way but rather have a little dongle to do it without needing another device that has wifi built in.
Yeah you can use the MacBook as a relay and sync everything to it. Or just sync both devices to each other. I like to also sync to a PC to better backup and manage my saves between devices that don't have wifi like an actual gba and these emulators.
Here you go. Comes with a bunch of different kinds I used one of the 6 pin ones. Not an affiliate link a.co/d/03T0uK6I The DS lite is one of the easiest ones to do. No modifications needed to the shell if you do it how I showed in the video.
mine was doing something similar. 3 lights high mid low, after thermal paste refresh. looked closer to this ru-vid.comcvQOh1Vd16M I left it plugged in over night and i booted in the morning. I was freaking out
Thats the PowKiddy RGB20SX with a flat backplate I designed and printed. Files are on my ko-fi account. I have a few short videos about it. It does feel more like an og gameboy like this. Gameboy and gameboy advance are my favorite to play on the 1:1 screen. Not a track pad just a right analog stick delete plug that I printed. Makes it comfortable to hit all the buttons one handed with the right stick deleted.
Thats a bit too large. Have about 125 long 65 wide and about 5 deep with this version to work with mainly due to hdmi port on top. I only found that size in 3.7v anyway, not sure it is within tolerances and how charging would go since its charging based of resistance from a 3.8v power source. Have successfully used a old blackberry battery thats 3.8v and am messing around with making it thinner. The design gets kinda messed up at 2mm thin. Just messing around at this point. Just ran out of pla for prototyping so I'll have to get more ordered after I get paid next.
It is wired different Miyoo is not compatible with switch sticks, Mine works great and I do wish it would be compatible with switch sticks that would be soo cool, on the other hand I am using Spruce CFW just released a few days ago so far it works better than other CFWs I am happy with my little A30
It doesn't work with any hall effect joysticks, like the easily purchased Gulikit. Not wired different from what I can tell, works just fine with stock switch sticks or any clones like it. It has a switch stick clone inside of it by default. If it ever drifts and software can't calibrate it then you can easily swap it with a stock switch stick by removing the back 4 screws. Weird device with all the little quirks. Custom firmware will probably make it decent eventually. Feel like it should be up to the manufacturer to make something good from the get go though.
Man the A30 just gets worse and worse lol. Is there anything about this thing that is not terrible? Bad screen, mono only audio, bad performance, gets super hot, and now melts sticks lol!
Its kinda small and pocketable with normal switch style sticks. Screen is recessed which is nice and plays up to n64 with custom firmware. Beyond that no its not very good. It's a shame it could have been great but I think it was rushed to market. No c to c support, one speaker, gets hot, melts Hal sticks, analog stick is clipped into top shell no screws.
It has some ps1 pre-loaded and they run fine at native. I find n64 to run worse than ps1. Stick to native resolution with this device if you get one. Unless you can deal with the framerate dips. Wait for custom firmware to squeeze all it can out of this chip then buy one if you really like the look.
ko-fi.com/s/786374919f Wonder if this will be clickable. Otherwise just try clicking on the longer assembly video attached. Downloads in that description.
Gulikit sticks operate at a lower current (160uA) vs traditional alps style (390uA.) (According to Gulikit) Might have something to do with it but this honestly seems like it could be a larger issue than just that.
Strange so maybe its overcurrenting the stick. It was almost like a short somehow is being caused I have put Hal sticks in many devices this is the first I have had trouble with. I unplugged it before it started to smell burnt like my anbernic stick did. Shame it ruined that one as it was unique with a textured top.
I mean if it's pushing 390ua and the stick only needs 160ua that would feel like an overcurrent causing a short inside the stick. It was plugged in long enough to melt the insides of the anbernic Hal stick(assuming the gulikit is similar in power requirements). Since it's just magnets on the inside the resistance is lower. The A30 must just push the full amount and not reduce the power to the stick like most consoles. Either way it doesn't work with Hal sticks which is a bummer and the first thing I feel like people will try if their stick starts to drift and calibration doesnt work. Maybe someone could measure the power going to the stick it could be even greater than 390uA if it's poorly designed. I just wanted to have the extra grippy top that the anbernic has so I'll be taking it apart to see if I can Frankenstein something to a stock alps stick.
1:26 Wow I see the battery's height is almost the same as the front housing when you paste it like that. Any chance you could do a super thin back plate? As thin as possible!
Do you mean have it step down like the stock one? Or just keep it flat but make it as thin as possible while fitting the stock battery? Personally don't like the stair step look of stock. Maybe make a cartridge slot on top where it feels like you are playing a game haha.
@@Johntriger No stair step, make it exactly like yours but thinner, (Like a smartphone), I'm not sure how thick the battery is, since I don't have one on hand, Possibly touching the back of the battery. Better yet, by making a flat plate (flush with front bracket) with countersunk screws + changing battery to a "long flat" type like smartphones. I wonder how thin it will be.
Okay I'll mess around with the design and see how thin I can go with the stock battery. I have a couple of old Motorola z battery things maybe I can rip something out of that and use it.
There are some plugs designed by another creator for the rgb30. Might need slightly remixed but I would bet you they would fit as is. Have you printed off the flat back mod? I don't find my fingers being blocked by the sticks at all personally. But I can see the desire to delete them. I will print them off and see if they fit.
In the future I will sell printed designs but I just got this printer and haven't dialed it all in. You can get the STL files printed for just the cost of the PLA filimant at most libraries. That is what got me wanting a printer. Just use Hilberts Curve for bottom and top layer with supports enabled for the holes to get the same finish. I printed this at .12 fine detail with a .2 first layer. Same settings for the analog piece. You can also print it on pcbway but it might be pricy to get shipped.
1:51 What's up with that scaling! Btw, would love to see the inside of it to see how much space available to put a larger battery. Or make it thinnest as possible with a thinner longer battery.
Tons of space. Check out the 3d model in the description. You could fit two batteries haha. I was going for flat nothing fancy tried to line the holes up and this is what I made. I am going to print it again to see if I can get a better finish. I'll open it back up then and record a short.
Oh I realize you mean the gbc. Integer Scale with Integer Scale Overscale enabled with a 1:1 PAR (10:9 DAR) aspect ratio picked. Fills the screen slightly chops the left and right side and has square pixels. Feels right, you can also run it without overscale and it doesn't go off screen. I like to hit custom and bring it to tbe bottom of the screen if I do that though. Maybe I'll make a video explaining my setups.
Yes I did give them a go it is a decent improvement from stock with those prints. I can swap backplate and use them still but I dont use triggers for much beyond hockey's anyway. The printed triggers falls more towards the screen when put on a table unlike stock triggers.
This is like really cool. I wish I could print my own stuff since I'm an artist and I want to make a Chikorita themed slate but I'm useless with electronics haha. Super cool man! 😊✨️
@@Johntriger If you ever offer the service to print with custom design I'd be interested in commissioning. But yeah man your channel is really cool, been learning a lot and retro consoles are awesome ✨️
Thanks, I posted the design in the description. Feel free to make some for yourself to enjoy. Haven't added custom designs yet but I am sure it's possible. Might make a gameboy themed one with the notches.
These 1:1 consoles are so versatile. Love that you can have integer scaled content fill most of the screen. Great compromise over going with a 3:2 screen that would only be good at gba and psp or a 4:3 thats bad for gba but decent for snes era. Still gets to 3x scaling on gba and gets 8:7 snes content to 2x without cutting off much of the display.
Yes, the same SD card can be shared between dsi consoles. Pretty cool that you can use it on the xl and normal dsi. Works the same between both of them.
Buy Gba if you can afford it. 70 for a gba and 35 for a new screen. Or 20 for a broken NDS and you can play nds games if you can fix it or 60 for a nice one that just works. To each your own, enjoy playing whatever you can get.
You used to be able to go to the store and re-download apps but I doubt that works anymore. Maybe worth modding your dsi with twilight menu and see if it will come back in that menu. Kinda looks like an original ds in twilight menu. Sorry I wasn't calling you a guy, I was trying to describe the look of the smiley face icon for pictochat app. Hope you can get it back!
Its a retroflag controller. Looks like it is around 45 now. Has Hal sticks so that is nice. Sticks resemble a gamecube controller. DPad is much bigger than a gamecube. Non affiliate link a.co/d/0rxGHSx
Very cool but one question, does the nintendo switch need to be modded for it to work? Or can I bring a MIG Switch packed to the brim with pirated and modified games to my friends place and insert it into his switch without any problems?
I could be mistaken, but in theory, yes, you can find games online and copy them over to a microSD card, and play them like you would an old-school flash cartridge. That said, Switch games come with unique ID's, so if Nintendo finds one of those ID's that is available online, they could probably easily find what console's it's been played on (via the MIG), and ban the console that way, so I'd probably steer clear of doing that tbh.
The Switch does not need to be modded to use this cartridge. If you dont care about being banned on your unmodded switch then yeah you can use other people's cart data how ever you get it. When your switch gets banned you will get locked out of newer games and all forms of updates game updates and console updates. Also cant download any games you bought on the store. The only way to avoid this is to dump your own collection and don't sell the dumped games or let friends borrow them. Supposedly Nintendo can tell if the same game is launched on two switches. Something about game launch data is retained and when the switch hits wifi it reports the telemetry. They ban consoles typically not Nintendo accounts. So you would just owe your buddy a switch if it bans him.
@@Johntriger I have a question can you also add my Nintendo switch save data from my ryujinx emulator to it or no? I have good save but idk if I can some how add it on there too
@@Johntriger but my friend has brought his smash cartridge to another friends place multiple times even though he has game data on it from his switch, why doesn't that ban his friends switch?
@@AlphaBlue69it’s not using one cartridge on two different switches that gets you banned, it’s using (what looks like on Nintendo’s side), one cartridge simultaneously on different switches, that gets you banned.
It is an Oled Tears edition. It is a retroflag controller for switch. Gives me a gamecube like feel with hal sticks. Acts like a wired pro controller. The thing on the bottom is where you can plug it in to charge and where it connects to the switch.
Its meant to use game backup files that you have backed up yourself either using the dumper or a modded original switch. Let's you have a handful of your collection be on one cartridge. Wouldnt recommend trying to use someone else's files as you will get your switch banned if you do so then it won't update or connect to online games at all.
That's a fair take considering the spread you have there. There are times where the amount of third party replacement parts needed becomes pricier than buying another used/oem ds lite.
True, sometimes the parts outweigh the value of the device. Working these can run from 50-70 depending on condition. If they are non functional they run for around 10-20. Sometimes a screen is more or around the price of a non functional console. The hinge is the biggest weak point considering there is just one hinge mechanism and it sits in the right corner. If that breaks you need to swap the entire shell and aftermarket just isn't the same. Nonetheless, the DS Lite is a great handheld.
One of the best if not the best jrpg of all time. Great way to play. You can have it full-screen like this or slightly under and still have square pixels like intended.
Dang, might just be the screen, can you take a flash light and press it against the screen. If you can see anything that looks not normal then the screen itself was broken. Usually looks like liquid or something dark. I might have showed how to test screens in this video.
@@Johntriger I saw that trick you did! Very clever. I thought it may been the screen. But when I plugged the same screen into a different board, it worked. I’d be down to share a photo of what the broken board looks like
